I carried a Klipschorn down a flight of stairs by myself, in one piece. I wasn't until I tried to get it in the back room and it wouldn't go through the doorway that I figured out that the top came off!

"As well, those plastic horns are very heavily ribbed to increase their stiffness." How about the Klipsch RB-75? The plastic horn in that is more resonant than any plastic horn I have ever heard. I haven't figured out what I am going to do with it yet.

"Spectrum 208a. Look back in Stereophile, I remember them being reviewed quite favorably" That is not a Spectrum 208a, that was a much bigger box (with the port on the back) and had a Peerless 2" paper cone tweeter (with a later upgrade to a 1-1/2" dome available). The model shown looks like the $269/pr Spectrum 108A and has an Audax TW51, a very good tweeter above 4Khz or so (and they were more than $3). http://www.scribd.com/doc/21917890/Audio-Basics-Newsletter-1989

You need to determine if the driver or the network is at fault. Do some swapping.

" There's a definite 'plasticky' sound without the rope caulk which vanishes immediately with. I was amazed at the difference 'cause I cut the vanes and damped 811s a few years ago with little or no result. "

http://www.audioasylum.com/forums/hug/messages/14/145241.html Any box is 'horn loaded' if you jam it in the corner, However; the transition from 6dB gain per half-ing the radiaton angle, to 3dB occurs in the area of 100hz~200hz. The significance of this is that the mids need to go as low as possible, 150hz (like the Oris). A two-way 60x90 degree unity horn. It uses two B&C 8NDL51 mid drivers and a BMS 4550 compression driver. The horn will cover 100Hz on up. http://www.cowanaudio.com

OCS charges less to do the whole job. Unless you have experience and all the adhesives, send it to OCS. If you do have experience and the adhesives, call OCS and find out how much a kit costs.

"The Adcom website sates that the front end of this amp is run class A" Did they also claim it ran on electricity? I've never seen an amplifier that front end didn't run class A. 120°F is fine, won't hurt a thing. I wouldn't worry about it unless it ran over 150°F at idle. McIntosh bias proceedure: Operate MCxxxx at 120 volts line input with no input signal. Measure the input power (approximately xx watts) or current (approximately 0.xx amps). a) Turn both bias potentiometers

The HK430/730 receivers are at least 30 years old, the caps are all shot. Comparing one old receiver vs another old reciever is pointless, all you're doing is comparing old caps.

A while back a pair of HBR that I sold new for about $500 in the late '70s went for $1500. They did have the original box, packing, and still-attached warranty cards.