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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/31/13 in Posts

  1. Might as all put up a recent picture... now used to hang my side surrounds like so:
    3 points
  2. Hi gang, You may have noticed a bunch of topics here and in some of the other forums with a left arrow next to them. That means the topic has been moved. Most of the threads like that have been moved to the Off Topic forum, because that's where they belong. The left-arrow threads are temporary placeholders that link to the thread in its new home. (The placeholders disappear after 14 days to keep things tidy) You can help your fellow Audio nut by keeping your topics here and in the other forum relevant to the Forum Title. This particular forum is for general Klipsch questions that don't fit in the other, more specific forums. It helps us by not having to move so many. Thanks for your help. Chad EDIT: Since this seems to be a controversial subject to some (I'm not really sure why it's SO controversial, but I digress), I though I'd open it up to a poll to get a general consensus. It's an unscientific poll, mind you.... So vote away!
    2 points
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  4. 2 points
  5. Hi guys, I meant to post this a while ago. Here's my very simple design for a wall-mount bracket to hold a speaker. In my case, the speaker is my center Heresy. (I hope the file attachement works.)
    1 point
  6. My bro in law got himself a nice pair of black KLF-20's and he wants to start a HT system outta them. He already has a sub, and is gonna be running everything on a Pioneer SC-63 he got for a sweet deal last week. I told him the next course of action would be to get himself a matching center. I know these are kinda difficult to come by, but I told him I'd ask the guys on the forum to keep an eye out if something pops up. I know theres one on ebay right now, but he wanted to get the c7 in black if at all possible. Thanks guys.
    1 point
  7. The question of which center would be a voice or timbre match to mains comes up a lot. I have been doing some reading on the topic and I feel there may be a way to do this scientifically rather than subjectively, not that opinions are in any way irrelevant. Using Audacity or a similar sound analyzing program, a sound can be broken down into individual frequencies with amplitude on undertones and overtones. This is a BIG question: Are two speakers playing the same exact note and having matching waveform/frequency plot timbre matches for that particular note? As I understand it, pertinent notes for voice matching tend to come from higher frequency notes. If this is so, then why we plot notes in octave increments starting at 100 Hz or so for a particular speaker using the exact same sound file from the exact same amplifier and the exact axis, distance, amplitude, etc? Then we could compare speakers by overlaying the plots. Note: I feel it is important to have as high a starting point as possible because the center speaker is usually going to be less capable in low frequencies than the mains. It would be interesting to SEE the timbre of one speaker compared to another. The plot above is actually the same note played on the same speaker with a varying fundamental to overtone. I am only using this as an example. Each column represents the same note with varying undertone and overtone adjustments. I wanted you all to see an example of what I meant. In my experiment, each column would be a different frequency for a speaker. I may be oversimplifying this. If timbre is much more complex than waveform/frequency then how can we graph that so we can get that overlay? If the overlay is extremely complex, can we use a computer program to compare the plots instead of our eyes? I do not want to reinvent a wheel. If there is already a way to measurably compare timbre, I would love to know about it. Empirical evidence that say an Academy is a great center LaScalas would be more influential to me than the subjective opinions of many individuals. Some of you are going to beat me up a bit on this. Please be kind.
    1 point
  8. Hey...my acoount got screwed up and Chad took care of it PRONTO! Chad's a good dude.
    1 point
  9. Are you using JUST the top terminals or JUST the bottom terminals on the speakers with the jumper plates in tact? Yes, and everything is connected perfectly. 12 gauge wire this time....the receiver does the same thing with speakers disconnected. I think I blew it up....the receiver did not seem to drive these all that well....no where near what the KSF-10.5 sounded like......so Increased the volume until they started to drive and the receiver went on me.... When you say speakers disconnected... Do you mean at the receiver end? If so you definitely have a problem with the receiver imo. If not I have one more question... Are the jumper plates installed correctly? If the jumper plates were jumping the left and right posts instead of the top and bottom you would definitely have a short.
    1 point
  10. Is that due to the cabinet or the components? If the cab would work I might try to upgrade or modify and thx btw Carl for your input It's the tuning of the cabinet. The problem is, the driver and cab are designed to work together. If you lower the tuning frequency of the cabinet, the driver may damage itself reaching the lower notes (over excursion).
    1 point
  11. 1 point
  12. By the "sub", I am assuming that you mean the Khorn Bass Bin Woofer?.......If so, the answer is no. I have the leads from the Woofer hooked directly to the Output of the Bass Amplifier. The Active Crossover is only sending the Lower Frequencies to the Bass Amplifier.
    1 point
  13. Spoooooky iPad and Glasses! And iPad Cover Flipping Action!
    1 point
  14. Well since your now over 100 post I will take your word on it and find my way around I mean I did figure out where the beer was
    1 point
  15. I've used duct seal (very cheap) and dynamat extreme (not so cheap) to damp various horns and woofer baskets. I personally believe a difference can be heard but it is by no means ground breaking. It's more of a mod you do when you already have everything taken apart to replace or repair something else. Kind of a why not thing. I would discourage covering the magnet/motor assy though as it does radiate excess heat when pushed. Limiting it's ability to do so could result in premature vc failure.
    1 point
  16. This sounds/reads like some unnecessary and confusing turmoil. One person's "cleaning things up" can be another's path to confusion. Reading the posts above makes this clear. It doesn't sound like many people thought something was broken that needed fixing. I suggest leaving things the way they were until a problem is better identified.
    1 point
  17. Allow me to ask a stupid question if you will as I've seen this occur in other forums. Other than the fact that threads "should be" in another area, why is it critical that they actually be there? I guess I'm asking why threads have to be monitored and moved. Seems like a lot of work to do something that hasn't happened here in the past. Just curious.
    1 point
  18. That's just the trim settings. To avoid overloading the pre-amp stage or chewing through a whole bunch of offset, the DSP divides the difference between the speaker levels approximately in half. Cutting one a little, and boosting the other a corresponding amount, is mathematically the same as boosting or cutting one channel all in one shot. In this case, making up for the sensitivity deficit of the current surround speakers. Using the HIP instead will reduce that margin by at least half, if not more. Easier on the amp. Are your speakers toe'd-in? or at least pointed somewhat "at the listening position" instead of firing straight down the room? The DSP could be trying to compensate for less than ideal placement.
    1 point
  19. Hey Arash, I should show these pictures to my wife, she would feel a lot better about our living room!!! Congratulations on acquiring the Khorns, plenty of good advice about restoring them to be found here on the forums. Good luck with your project.
    1 point
  20. tas dont do it! do DIY!! its the dark side
    1 point
  21. Those look like nice speakers. They remind me of the vintage JVC 3 way (SK-Sxx) speakers. The bad thing I have found with the JVC's I have had is the midrange and tweeters go out, and are proprietary to the enclosure/network. Oh, and the networks in them was pretty much nonexistent. In fact, there was no low pass filter on the woofers. Still, everything sounded OK. For $20 you got some fine speakers.
    1 point
  22. The K400 hurts more when you drop it on your foot.
    1 point
  23. Welcome to the forum! The quick and easy answer to movies and gaming if you already have a receiver and blu-ray would be the RF-82 II system. You can walk into a Klipsch dealer and order the set for less than the MSRP. Minus the sub and build a couple of your own like Scrappy, and you can cause earthquakes. Be careful, you might end up like me and scrappydue. Unquenchable thirst for things audio, for things Klipsch. Perhaps you should go ahead and admit that your real budget is $25,000 and join the Klipsch-ahol Anonymous.
    1 point
  24. I wondered about the square corners, but someone pointed out that it's a speaker, not an intake or exhaust manifold, so it's not about flow, it's about sound vibration and reflection. Maybe introducing 45-degree angles would add unwanted sound reflections or otherwise impair the sound.
    1 point
  25. I have always wondered why they didn't put a angled piece on the sides (rear of each side) to smooth the horn instead of having it do a 90.... You mean vertical corner reflectors? If I recall correctly, those who have added them have heard little difference. Bruce
    1 point
  26. I am supposed to pickup a pair of the Heresy HIPs Thursday.... Hopefully they will be a good match for the LaScalas.
    1 point
  27. My HIP looked and sounded dreadful when I got them. I lowered the taps by one on both my tweeter and mid on my HIP, changed the caps to polypropylene, used 6.8µF for the mid, and a 15Ω 50W swamping resistor. Sounds a lot better (YMMV). The stock crossover uses the same taps as the LaScala with a type AA with an 8µF instead of the 13µF, and it is too hot for the direct radiator 12 (mine had the EV). Dropping the taps one step means it is about 101dB/W overall.
    1 point
  28. Jeesh. When I was 14 all I had was a portable single-speaker radio. Uphill. In Snow. Both Ways. /getoffmylawn
    1 point
  29. Maybe it's operator error, but I can't find a way to have a all threads in descending date order. Minor annoyance, I suppose, but for us regulars a bit of a nuisance to have to do extra clicking to get to the latest post in a thread. Also, see no sign of system profiles. Maybe that's just me as well... Other than that, I'm feeling like the owner of a new car and lovin' it. Dave
    1 point
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