Leaderboard

If the cabinets are solid but beat up, yes, smooth them out and put on veneer, or do a black paint job on them. A layer of 1/4 inch on the outside would tighten them up and they would resonate less, generally a good thing. The newest models are 1 inch mdf, so you would be moving closer to the way they are now. Bruce

1. Gloria 2. Roxanne 3. Rhonda

Are you sure you weren't listening to an RC-35?

You can always get a www.photobucket.com account (it's free). Just get an account and upload to them and then copy and paste one of the links to the image (on the right side of the page) to your message here.

Bondo is an epoxy and will stick to most anything, do not use wood filler as it will not adhere nearly as well. Wood filler is great for filling countersunk nailholes and other small surface imperfections but not for repairing corners or larger areas or panels that may resonate.

Little knowledge I have on horns says that the mouths should be together to couple them. Act as a single sub and will be less hassle to get to sound right together.

I saw where someone got some 1/2" birch plywood (you could use 1/4"), and attached it to the outside left, top, and right side of the exterior on the cabinets. Then they made a grill for the front and they looked like brand new speakers! The side benefit was that adding 1/2" plywood to the exterior stiffened up the cabinet more, not to mention it was pretty cheap to do.

DIY stands? I've found that with a little wood or plywood and some simple measurements you can make just about everything you want/need and get it in the right size, color, etc.

Some of the rebuild threads found here use simple auto bondo. You are really just trying to fill voids for a veneer to adhere to and to reshape crisp edges so that if you do re-veneer, you've got the right shape without waves and gaps. I wouldn't be afraid of veneer if you can get the right stuff and adhere it the right way. Your cabinet pro might have ideas about fixing the substrate before applying veneer.

@psg - I'm using the ALK Universal crossover which allows the woofer section to be powered separately from the squawker & Tweeter. Last night I ordered the Emotiva UPA-700 which has 7 channels, so I'll use 4 for the mains (2 each) which leaves 3 for the Center & Surround LaScala's. BTW - I'm putting the Surrounds back at about 135° equal distant with the center channel at about 8' from the sweet spot. @tigerwoodKhorns - No, I'm going to try it without the sub at first and just go with a 5.0 setup. I can always add one later. I probably won't have it all done until next summer, just collecting the parts now. Thanks everyone for your advice.

If you match drivers and other factors and made one sub vented and the other sealed, the sealed sub will start to drop off higher and have a less impressive low end. The sealed box will almost be twice as large and thus more efficient. Room gain starts around 40 Hz. The longer the room, the less the gain according to this formula: C is the speed of sound and L is the length of the room C/2*L 1130/2* 20=28.5 Hz so you will start gain 12 db/octave starting at 28.5.. This mean at 14Hz you will be up 12 db. Room gain is not boundary gain which is usually 2-5 db. If the length is 30 ft : 1130/2*30= 18 Hz. So you will be up 12 db at 9 Hz. So the gain is less and, this room gain has a greater effect on sealed subs. In large rooms it is better to get a sub that is vented and not chase after the low end since it will be harder to acheive. Getting drivers with more excursion can lead to more distortion. A sealed sub may have a higher low end than a vented sub below it tunning since the vented sub output will drop off like a rock in free fall, lol. Even more wattage will not solve everything. I can't get peak performance out of my Chase subs because even the most demanding movies only come close to using the 800 watt/ RMS and nowhere near the 1600 watt peak usage. With OHF/ Oblivion require no more than 600-700 watts during the most intense scenes at reference level. To get the peak performance I would have to do some type of sweep to see the watts peak near 1600, which is not needed for HT. The main reason I have sealed subs is due to their size compared to having vented subs with 18 in. drivers. I like subs with a good mid bass thump ( 40-80 Hz) since I have a large room and the compromise is on the low end. Some of the new movies have stuff in the 3-10 Hz region and sealed sub can reproduce this with the right driver and power supply. A ported sub can be damaged trying to get more output below it's tunning which is usually around 20-25 Hz for good ported sub. Some vented subs may go down to 15 Hz.. The Triax benefits from 3 drivers, sealed, and a powerful amp. It is definetly a LFE moster.