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So. The new $5 hot and ready little Caesars commercial comes on tv. You know the one with the bean bag chairs. And the only thing I see is the tube amp in the background. My wife says I have tunnel vision and only hear what I want to hear. Or something like that. Idk. I never pay that much attention

Feels nice to be cited! Thanks!

Rookie, Don't pay attention to Shakey, he is just constipated! Quakana, Not ALL multichannel receivers sound bad for stereo, and you can't say you have listened to them all either. A good sub will ad another whole octave of music you have obviously never heard. Rookie, Speakers are by far the best bang for the buck you can spend on your system, so buy the best you can afford, and if that is the best sub you can afford then so be it, but I would suggest looking at the used market on ebay so you can get more sub for your money. That or consider building a kit if you have the room and the know how. Good Luck... Roger

I don't think I ever heard true imaging before I spread my La Scala out and toed them in like KHorns, with one of them in a corner. I get the same imaging with speakers disappearing from the room with KHorns. So for me they image better than a quality speaker positioned out in the room.

Here are some comments on my personal experience with some networks that I have tried. I think I will also post this out in "2 Channel" ALK Cornwall B Series replacement Ver 2. – Used in Cornwalls with stock horns and Cornwalls with Cornwall Fastracs. To my ears a very even response top to bottom with stock horns. With Fastracs the mids were just too loud and I was going to have to find a way to attenuate. These networks are still worth building if you are sticking with stock horns. Not very flexible though. ALK ES-5800 and ES-500T networks - Used in Lascalas with Cornwall Fastrac Can attenuate highs and mids Pinpoint accuracy – places each instrument precisely! Very clear and holds up well to any volume you want. Drivers don’t seem to be working hard at all. Much under 80db it starts sounding restrained or soft. Sound stage shrinks at lower volumes. Great if you listen loud or like to have block parties. Probably better than the neighbors deserve. ALK ES-5800 and AP12-500 networks - Used in Cornwalls with Cornwall Fastrac and Lascalas with Lascala Fastracs and with Cornwall Fastracs Can attenuate highs and mids Pinpoint accuracy – a little more cohesive than the ES-500 (ES are very nice above 80 db or so) Good imaging – best at higher volume Very clear at any volume. I kept creeping the volume up to 75db or higher and didn’t even realize I had it that loud. I liked the AP12-500 better than the ES-500. It would be interesting to hear this with really nice caps but that would be cost prohibitive. ALK CornScala-Wall networks - Used in Cornwalls with stock horns and Cornwalls with Cornwall Fastracs. Also used with Lascalas even though the crossover is a little high at around 600hz for the bass bins) Can attenuate the highs (resistor based) and mids Not quite the clarity or accuracy of the higher end ALK networks… more balance between the drivers. Sounds open and still decent soundstage at lower volumes. Can play loud and doesn’t fall apart as quickly as stock networks but still no match for the steep slope ALK networks. Impressive for the money. For late night listening on the Cornwalls with Fastracs these were my preferred networks. - I recently replaced the stock capacitors on the ALK CornScala-Wall network with Mundorf MCap EVO Aluminum Oil caps. I tested for a short time on the LaScalas with Eliptracs and will be moving them to the Cornwalls soon Initial impression is they have been opened up and there is improved resolution. If these need break-in time I’m pretty happy because they sound better from the beginning. I’ll have to wait to hear if I think they were worth the investment. Aletheia Audio Super AA with VH Audio OIMP V-Caps - Used on Lascalas with Eliptracs Can attenuate the mids Most cohesive I have heard… VERY balanced and even sound Excellent resolution (hear it all… good and bad) No harshness, not bright but still very clear Can be pushed loud without falling apart but ALK ES networks still have the edge there. My current network of choice.

Is that going to be big enough for a LaScala? If it is foam... Won't it tend to compress, which could cause the LaScala to become unlevel? I would think the feet would be better for isolation. From the Amazon link.... Product Description The AmpDude is an incredibly effective isolation platform that instantly improves your Amplifier's Performance. The Auralex AmpDude Amplifier Isolation platform is a smaller version of our classic GRAMMA, which is trusted by chart topping recording artists onstage and in the studio. The AmpDude is designed for compact guitar, bass and keyboard amplifiers. This patented isolation platform features an Ozite covering over an inert structural layer that floats on 3 "strips of acclaimed Auralex PlatfoamTM. This carefully engineered solution allows the true sound of your amp to come through by negating resonance artifacts. Hear All The Sound You Paid. For Add an AmpDude to your rig today. Creates A Cleaner, More Accurate Mid and Low Frequency Response. Decouples The Amp From The Floor For Incredible Purity. Improves The Sound Of Your Amplifier. Reduces Coloration and Muddy Sound. Diminishes Structural Vibrations H Supports Compact Amplifiers. Improves Sound Isolation. Supports up to 200 pounds. My La Scala's only weigh about 130ish lbs. each( ). So, I think these would be okay with the weight. But someone may want to use a couple for each speaker, since the size is 15 x 2.8 x 15 inches. But yes, I think the feet may be a better choice for the price. Dennie

Interesting. You made me look up the electrical conductivity of metals yet again. What I found is: Brass IACS (% of copper conductivity) Admiralty Brass 24.00 Admiralty Metal (Annealed) 24.60 Aluminum Brass (Annealed) 23.00 Cartridge (Annealed) 28.00 High Strength Yellow 12.00 Leaded Naval (Annealed) 26.00 Leaded Semi Red 18.00 Leaded Yellow 25.00 Low (Annealed) 32.00 Low Leaded (Annealed) 26.00 Naval (Annealed) 26.00 Red (Annealed) 37.00 Yellow (Annealed) 27.00 Aluminum Brass (Annealed) 23.00 Steel IACS (% of copper conductivity) Steel, Cast 10.70 Steel, High Alloy 2.90 Steel, 304 Stainless 2.50 Steel, 304 Stainless 2.50 Steel, 347 Stainless 2.40 Zircaloy - 2.40 Steel, 316 Stainless 2.30 To summarize, most steel has a conductivity of under 3% of the copper wire you are connecting to it. Although brass is 10 times better, it is still about 1/4th as conductive as the speaker wire. I don't recall any threads discussing this, so I think I may start one using this post as it's start. Unless there are some physics I don't know about, this is going to impact current flow in a negative way. I will post this thread in the technical questions forum.

I have built the type C and do have the Eliptrac 400 mid horn + Circletrac HF they are different animals and to some degree different price points. The Type C with the M2380 horn and the Selenium HM 11-25 Horn is an amazing combo. When I used my M2380 I used it with the Fatial HF200 and thought it amazing, not with the D405. I’m not sure which of the 2 Selenium D405 vs Fatial HF200 Id go with. Im cheap, and I know both work. The Fatial would let you two with the idea of trying the M2380/Fatial combo as a two-way. I preferred it as a 3 way. I own and regularly use 3 different versions of the Cornscala. The one with the most detail is the most expensive... ALK crossovers and Eliptrac 400 mid horn + Circletrac HF is flawless. My K401/K55 Selenium HM 11-25 Horn/Selenium D220ti is my wifes favorite... probably because I built it and it has a more romantic sound... even if not the most accurate. The one I suggest for those who are new to speaker building is going with Bobs Crites cut, Paste and Listen formulas... I started there and would be happy to go back. Bob's setups are compelling... He can send you parts, plans or whole speakers. The Type C is his Best combo in my opinion... I have not heard the Type D, but in a 3 way... don’t see anything wrong with the M2380... This is a bullet proof combo. Now if you’re ready for more... Dave Harris is the guy to go for upgrade horns... To say he knows his sh*t is an understatement. I own Eliptrac 400 mid horn + Circletrac HF and love it. It allows me to go from 2way to three way… His horns are just that good. I do plan to replace my K401 to a Eliptrac 400 with the adapter so I can run my K55.

Having built 3 pairs of cornscala's and 1 pair of split La Scala's I would strong recommend the Type C. The Tweeter lens and driver are the same as I have used... fantastic ability, in my opinion a better choice than the tweeter in type A and type B. I still use CS125 in my Hersey clones and an earlier version of the Type A, but the selenium just kicks ***. The M2380 is a low buck clone of the famous JBL horn… it’s a CD horn… sounds great everywhere… less of one sweet spot. The Big Selenium D405 is a great choice… might consider use of Faital HF200 to mate to the M2380 instead, though extra cash. The 3 way is my preferred sound. I have a crazy setup allowing 2way/3way on the fly and prefer the 3way. Bob makes building some of the best speakers around as easy as screw and glue… 1st rate solution if you cant afford a klipsch product, or like building yourself. You might consider additional bracing of the cabs, more than Klipsch or Bob has done… I found it was additive.

I built a very close derivative of the “style A” Cornscalas. The only real differences between Bob’s design and mine are that I used a pair of Eminence APT-150 tweeters rather than his CT125 tweeters and my crossovers are a little bit different. The APT-150 tweeters use the exact same driver that Bob's CT125s have but incorporate a much larger horn. Because of some dimensional changes I made and the much larger tweeter horn I had to rethink the port design. Rather than ports across the bottom I ended up with triangular ports at the bottom corners of the cabinets. Different but equalivant. Here’s a link to my build: http://community.klipsch.com/forums/p/148721/1534672.aspx#1534672 I am very VERY pleased with the outcome of my project. They get daily play here and sound wonderful. I have had a number of forum members here to audition them and each has been quite impressed with the sound that they produce. So much that one left my house, went home, and immediately began his own Cornscala build. To me that is high praise indeed. Here’s the second thread about them after I finished the veneer work, oiled them, and built grills: http://community.klipsch.com/forums/p/150455/1558783.aspx#1558783 I STRONGLY encourage anyone who is thinking about it to build Cornscalas. They can be built at a relatively low cost if you have the tools and the skills. Even though you’ll spend ~$1500 to ~$1600 “out the door” you’ll NEVER find a pair of speakers at that price point that will even come close sound wise. Go for it!!!

For sure, many don't realize how important it is to the sound and musical quality of both the La S and K-horn that they are entirely horn-loaded from top to bottom. I couldn't agree more. That is also the wonderful thing about a horn loaded sub. My tuba table blends seamlessly with the La Scala speakers so that I can't tell where the La Scala ends and the subwoofer takes over. It works quite well for music and movies; there is quite a lot of low musical content, esp. in newer recordings that the La Scala can't cover, and tons of very low stuff even my K-horns can't play, though the k-horns kick a** for music. [8-|]

I found myself in a similar situation a couple of weeks ago - which to buy ? I finally decided on the Cornscala "style D". For me the choice was between the Chorus, Forte, Cornwall and Heresy, as I did not have a room that would support the K-Horn's. I immediately dropped the Heresy from consideration (limited LF response) after some sage advice from a few fellow members. Next to go was the Forte for it's lower sensitivity. I finally decided on the Cornwall, however, shipping costs and the innevitable upgrades/repairs (crossovers, diaphrams etc...) made me take a hard look at the Cornscala. After talking with Mr. Crites, I decided to go with the "style D" 2 way. Total outlay with shipping will come in somewhere in the $1500 to $1600 range. This for a baltic/Russian birch ( no mdf ) cabinet complete with cnc motorboard's ( front baffles) , crossovers, drivers etc... When I weighed that vs. $800 to $1000 for a 30 or 40 year old pair of Cornwall's plus $200 to $300 to get them shipped, then whatever upgrades/repairs may be needed, well, it was a no brainer for me. I will however, have to assemble and finish the cabinet's. This is a plus in my opinion because it will allow me to stain and poly them to whatever color I wish. As a bonus they will be dent, scratch and coffee cup ring free. Understand that I blew my initial budget all to hell as it was originally in the $700 range. I assume your budget is quite a bit higher since you are considering K-Horn's or Lascala's. I will post pic's and initial impressions of there sound as the build progress's. Good luck to you which ever way you choose to go.