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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/21/14 in Posts
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This is a fascinating discussion, trying to come up with new metrics, and applying these novel metrics to complex devices. But, to bring this back on topic, what does it have to do with speaker cable? Cables are simple lumped parameter components. L, R, C, that's it. Simple conductors do not produce non-linear distortion at all, and they won't effect linearity unless they are poorly chosen for the task. There has yet been any evidence presented showing that these mysterious differences arise from the cable, or that it even exists, yet the appeal to novel metrics in pursuit of audiophile religion persists. I don't get it. This whole discussion is based on a false premise, one whose persistence and promotion is a detriment to the entire forum. It's unsound, unsupported, bad advice to lead someone to believe that speaker cables are anything more than they are, or that they will somehow transform one's system. They would be better off reading up on room acoustics and tackling that than wasting any time, effort, or money on fancy magic wire.2 points
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I haven't experienced this phenomenon, but if others are seeing this sort of thing, I'm interested in hearing about it. Thanks2 points
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Im a black finish guy although i love your 92's. Sorry about your choice man. It has gotta be tough. Could be sell them at buyers choice2 points
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I love my subs. If i did not have big bass in my life in the form of a very low frequency bass driver/s i would not sleep tight till i got some. I'm very serious2 points
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So far with my experience, the sound quality is outstanding and I'm just getting started with room placement. Shouldn't you be getting started with pictures?2 points
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Take him out for some beer, pizza and pinball.... and invite a few friends....2 points
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"A" people hire "A" people. "B" people hire "C" people. I point the boney finger of blame at the person who hired him. Problems like this tend to go all the way to the top of the company. _If_ the CEO of your company is an "A" person, then you can make change. If he is not, you are likely stuck with what you got.2 points
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First, congrats!! Second, just toss a doily over them...she'll never notice! As for the top, I've always thought that one could build a Khorn style top (to match the shape of the Jubilee bass bin) and place the K510 inside it to give a more finished presentation. That said, I've also thought about doing the same thing with the K402 like several others have. Then I think...nah... I kind of like the look of intimidation that it presents. Not trying to hijack this thread or anything. Just wanted to show what I did with mine. The 402 would obviously require a slightly different approach but you get the idea. Hope this helps.2 points
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EDIT: Please see the main thread with the latest version of this info:1 point
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I have a single kg 2.5 free to anybody who wants it. It is in pretty bad shape... but it works. The cabinet has some water damage... I am using the other one as a center between 2 kg 4's. I forgot it was in my garage and it got wet. Also, the grill is busted and the black stain is coming off. My zip code is 15108 (western PA), if anybody local wants it or just pay the shipping and it's yours.1 point
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Just an FYI......... Earlier today I visited the Jammin Jersey website checking on other items and took the time to peruse their vintage JBL offerings. I use the JBL 2482 midrange driver on a pair of Dave Hoovers Eliptrac 400 horns. Long ago when I bought these drivers I was advised to look for the ultra rare JBL 2480 drivers. The 2480 was a bridge driver between the 375 and the 2482 modrange and many feel is superior in its own right. I have never once seen a pair of 2480's drivers for sale............. and Jammin Jersey has a pair available. They are exceedingly rare. You will not even find these on the JBL vintage product roster. The 2480 was specified to me by Dr Bruce Edgar for the Khorn (I have Khorns). I have 3 of the JBL 2482's and do not need more product. If you're interested check these out. They're not cheap and they're monstrously huge and heavy. But you'll likely not ever see a pair of these again.1 point
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well its pretty much just as i described. the clock is wrong, if i make a post, then when i look at the main forum page where it shows recent activity of all the sub categories, the time it shows that post was made is off terribly. for example, after i make this post, i can go back to that main page in 2 minutes & it will show i made the post 13 minutes ago. or some other incorrect timing. seems to be random & varies in the differences it shows. Thank you. I understand the issue. I just meant I'm interested in hearing if others are having the same problem.1 point
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Ron I am trying to see if I can come across on more driver, as I need 2 if someone else comes along go ahead with the sale, as I may have a back up.1 point
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I haven't experienced this phenomenon, but if others are seeing this sort of thing, I'm interested in hearing about it. Thanks Carefull there Chad, we would not want to lose you wile messing with the Hal9000.1 point
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Thanks everyone. Interesting discussion! I've had a very positive experience for my first time posting here. Thanks. It seems wise to me. What can I say? I'm a worry-ier. I'll hook it up the new speakers to my existing equipment. If it's insufficient, I have my heart set on a new or refurbished Marantz unit. At any rate, I'll let you know how it goes!1 point
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The conundrum of choice vs. distortion detectability. I used to have VMPS large bass reflex subs. Their measured performance rolled at 27 hz. even though they claimed to go to 17. Yes they were corner loaded. I now have twin 18" monster drivers with reflex cabs I'm about to mount them in for testing. We shall see after I measure. For reference, I have Tuba HT downstairs and twin Danley DTS-10's. Just sold my home built tapped horn with a single LAB12 driver. The owner has huge horns and is very happy with just that. The Danley DTS-10's are the closest thing to a Gjallerhorn, since two 12" drivers have the same cone area as one 18", both horn loaded with 24 foot horns with output from both sides of the cone (horn bass reflex??). So far, all I can say is that it's a trade-off between more lumber for less distortion, since tapped or straight horn efficiencies can get to be between 95 and 110 db/watt. Whereas the really good, big sub drivers are down around 87 db efficiency, maybe 90 db/watt in a good reflex box. Which means 10X more power. BUT power is cheap, so having two to four 18's in a room can still do some structural damage. Either way, modern AUDIO, whether 2 or 11 channels, greatly benefits from any kind of SUB bass! This is true regardless of type, cost, size, or distortion threshold in our human hearing/feeling mechanisms. I'm not a purist either way, but I have made sound choices. No pun intended.1 point
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Started to make a new thread, but since tube amp acquisition is the topic here I think it appropriate. Anybody ever heard of http://www.frenzeltubeamps.com/? Interesting that he is located at Mabank, TX...close enough to throw it through his front window if it sux. First thought was the price is absurdly low for a new build integrated with same power as an ST-70 with phono and such all built in. Very little on the web about them, though it's largely positive. Dave1 point
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first of all congrats on your speakers, i bought my first set of klipsch speakers back in 1990 time frame a set of k-horns in cherry oil. had a set of 88 oak oil a set of 03 walnut oil and my present set of 69 in walnut oil. in my case i would have to sell both sets and buy a set in walnut ( not a fan of oak ) but i'd go with the 85's. a lot less grain looks like the cloth is loose on the newer pair. for those who love the look of oak veneer the newer set is the one to keep sorry not much help from me.1 point
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I don't use terms like night and day difference and such. Will it sound different, yes. Better is subjective. My Yaqin sound great with the Mc speaker and different than the RF 7's on the Pioneer/Acurus amps. Both sound great and favor certain types of music. The VK 2100 can be purchased for less than $425.00, so this one will not break the bank. We do a lot of things in this hobby for small gains, like wire, cable, room treatments, DAC's just to name a few. If nothing else the tube gear looks really impressive and looks are part of the fun in enjoying your system, lol.1 point
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I love to see people faces when I watch a movie with some good LFE. Four 18 in drivers never fail to impress. Rarely do I run them hot.1 point
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Three reasons. First, the extra height they give the 510 tweeters gives the sound a bigger presentation, like the musicians are up on a stage, not sitting on chairs in front of you. Second, the speakers look better that way, and those big top sections would take up a lot of space stored anywhere else. If I ever get 402 horns, I'll consider setting them directly on the bass bins, because they're fairly tall horns, but they might go on top of the LS2 HF sections also.1 point
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It's my 70" Sharp for sure, looking forward to getting into front projection with a 120-140" screen.1 point
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I like the look of the grain on the 92's better. Can you hear a difference?1 point
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Are you talking about a pair of 402s with no drivers? If it turns out that you do not get them, could you let me know? I may be ready for the next step in the evolution of my JubScalas. They started out as La Scalas, became 510 JubScalas, and now they're 510 JubScala IIs. 402 horns are the next logical step. Davis had a pair a while back, he has sold them since. DJK, convinced me to give the EV hp640 a try, I just need to find another at a good price. But will be trying them with the Faitals on top of the Jamboree bass bin.1 point
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You can think of the power distribution in terms of how many octaves each driver has to cover. In a 3-way system, the tweeter is crossed over at a fairly high frequency, say 4500 or 6000 Hz, so it has little work to do and needs little power. In a 2-way system, the tweeter starts working at a much lower frequency, say 450 to 1800 Hz, so it has more work to do and uses more power. A wide-range tweeter like that would naturally need to have a higher power handling rating. As I mentioned in a previous post, at about 600 Hz, the load is shared fairly equally between the woofer and the tweeter. It's been a long time since I've seen the handy chart that spells out the power distribution by crossover frequency, but I did find a couple of links that might be helpful. Feel free to do some searching yourself. Crossover basics: http://lenardaudio.com/education/06_x-over.html diyaudio discussion of crossover points: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/45831-crossover-points-music-power-distribution.html1 point
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I finally had time to open the NAD up, remove all of the styrofoam bits, and connect it to my system. Ops checks on L/C/R channels good. Next task is to run a new Audyssey. (and buy a bigger center speaker) Thanks, Jeff.1 point
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Ok, I know everyone has, or has had crappy manager. So how do we deal with it, is there any good readings out there. Here is my situation, I am a supervisor (I know its hard to believe) but any way I have a "manager" above me who is horrible at his job. So bad to the point I can't take it any more. My wife is having the same problem, it just seems people don't really give a crap and just bs the hiring manager to get the job. This guy never really wanted this job but or the responsibilities so why he took it I don't know. All of his responsibilities have delegated to myself and 2 other service writers. All I can do is hope our regional service manager finally takes action, or gets pressure from up above to do so. I mean everybody at my location knows this guy sucks at his job, maybe it just takes time. But I can't take it any more, I have had 2-3 sit downs with my manager about the problems he has created, and he just gives the same response. I feel we live in a society were we just let this go on, I may be out of a job as I was about to lay my hands on the guy today. I mean it took everything I had to walk away and not strangle the guy. I did talk to my regional manager about this, I didn't want to complain about the guys poor work ethic as I believe every one else has done enough of that, though I did tell him about the heated discussion we had. Ugh, just needed to vent. This is about the correct size comparison as well.1 point
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I've been very satisfied with mine "as is". Took me a while to get to that point but I can't think of anything off hand I'd like to change.1 point
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On Ebay I use a guy that calls his company "Primeamp" out of Kowloon HongKong, all my tube amps come from him, Direct copies of Mcintosh, fisher, and others, and he backs them up. to this date iv purchased 6 tube amps, and a set of Mono Blocks for the wife. could not be happier.1 point
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Thanks for this post. Your story really inspired me to be thankful for the job I have (which is kind of hard for me sometimes). I have to move every 7 years (which really sucks) and put up with some crap every now and then, but at least I only see my management once every quarter1 point
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I just ordered a pair of JBL 2360A horns plus drivers... The original quote was $370... i told them i would pick them up at ABF and it dropped to $170.1 point
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50-watts is a lot for a tweeter, wow!?! Usually I think tweeter wattage is very very low compared to a woofer's. That's what leads me to believe in general higher frequencies take less electrical power to produce, and the low end will almost always take more electrical to produce. It is true a cross-over circuit must have padding resistors for the tweeter (as it seems more efficent to get the same SPL) and these resistors must waste electrical power. However, this power distribution plot you speak of sounds interesting... Can you provide a link? I agree at some frequency on a speakers response, the sum of the power spectral density (PDS: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_spectral_density#Power_spectral_density) will be 50/50. However, the PSD, may not equal the instantaneous electrical power an amp may see at any given moment, and for sure thinking of things in terms of total energy by integrating the power distribution will not correlate to real world electrical power consumption versus time. However, I'm not sure what you mean by power distribution as I'm not a speaker designer. For any given high frequency from a tweeter, producing x dB versus a given low frequency from a woofer producing the same x dB, I would expect the electrical power to always be more going to the woofer. After all, a woofer is larger and heavier, so I don't think it'll ever be as efficient as a tweeter (even if it is horn loaded). It's also true that a woofer will have to move a larger distance as the wavelength of the sound wave gets longer, so this involves putting more work into the system (and this takes more electrical energy). Even though a tweeter is required to vibrate faster, it appears base Wrt to your question of impedance, I was referring to electrical impedance (R + jX), which is made up of resistance ® and reactance (X). Power (P) is P = i^2*R, one would expect at first glance, the driver drawing the most power to have a higher R. However, X can change the phase angle for i, which will change the magnitude of the i's phasor (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phasor), and jX will also change as frequency changes. Also i is squared in the equation, so it must be more dominant than R. In retrospect, this wasn't the best way to think of things. To make matters worst, it looks like the electrical models used for representing a woofer can get very complicated too, so figuring out what i and R might be without actually measuring them under load seems cumbersome. I also realize I keep saying power and not electrical power, and this is confusing as power and impedance are generic terms and apply to acoustics as well. Not being a speaker designer, I wouldn't mind reading a technical paper that explains when a tweeter uses the same amount of electrical power as a woofer.1 point
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right on jason. i hope one day to own a nice large horn sub for my living room theater. i do love the sound my little anarchy subs provide. so clean sounding1 point
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Was the problem that you only needed an update ? Or your still not sure what it was. No updates were performed. I let it sit overnight the first time it happened. Had video issues after about 15-20 minutes. Spent about 2 hours troubleshooting and then turned it off to sit for about 2 hours. I haven't had a problem since. Everything is setup exactly like it was when the problem started.1 point
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Yes the Tandberg was the finest i have heard as well. I have a freind well into his 80's who collects reel to reel machines and i have made some very long drives to pick up some in particular for him and his collection. Still at his age he takes some of the nicest equipment i have seen and mods and rebuilds in great detail. I have no idea about these machines other than how to use one although sound quality from the Tandberg and i dont remember the model was very good.1 point
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Several years ago, I picked up a pair of RF-7's thinking I will never part with. Well, in short, goodbye my ol' friends. Hello! La Scala!!! After getting them settled in (had to paint the wall behind cause they clashed with the yellow). Replaced a diaphragm on one HF horn (I'll do the other next week). It was time for a test drive! Three words, OMG!!! -the delicacy of sound from these is amazing. The warmth is attractive and the look, well, look at them! Gorgeous! I was a little worried they would be too much. Those worries went quickly out the door with the twist of the throttle. Oh dear Lord, I had no idea what I have been missing. Now to smooth over the neighbors. I think some fresh baked cookies are in order1 point
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We are getting ready to launch an complete new line of R.... oh, crap, I'm probably not supposed to say anything yet. Rest your fears. This is the year of copper. We're not going anywhere. Either is the Heritage line.1 point
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Specs don't look any better than the 884 really. I guess just the fact that it's a horn loaded sub vs direct radiator sub? And sancho the cinema line is for movie theaters and people like me with false walls and get crazy with the volume once in a while lol1 point
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