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posi traction ....that's right you have limited slip

… here's two lol, my 49 nash airflyte with a flathead 6, my daily driver in the early 2000's with a backseat that folded down to a double bed - I sold it to a guy who complained about the brakes, nevertheless, I saw this out at the Goodguys show racing it around the cone's about 5 year's later, I'll swear that' was my old car, sans the wax, I remember the fender scratches lol.... looked like he didn't change a thing, .... I'm pretty sure the guy in the passenger seat needed a coffee to sober up afterwards lol

The one I installed is white. It may be an illusion but for me the blacks seem a little darker when it's on. I also don't like watching tv in the dark and there's no chance of light reflecting off the screen with back lighting.

Good for you. It may be the Louisiana version of a vended test, compiled with the permission of, and payment to, the manufacturer. In California, at least in the past (before my retirement in 2003), they used the so called Stanford test, with added questions and sections, to make the torture more exquisite. The name and address of the test's owner should be on the manual, often on the back; you were given the test's technical manual, weren't you? Teachers should be, at least, allowed to read the manual and see how the test's creators assessed reliability and validity, as well as looking at reviews of the test, especially in Mental Measurements Yearbook (Buros) in the library. A good test librarian can help interpret comments concerning the manufacturer's testing of the test, i.e., the methods used to test the reliability and validity and any other assessments by the reviewers. Those reviewers (always at least two) are experts, and as such, sometimes disagree with each other (we used to say they should be regarded as "The Siskel and Ebert of testing," but that's hardly appropriate anymore). Students in lower grades were often given one of two tests. One test manual warned that their test's validity suffered if the student didn't finish, "every student must attempt to answer every question," so all students should be allowed to work on it until finished. That didn't always happen. The schools tried to cram the test taking into one class period. Well, they were warned. It is the test's creator's professional responsibility to run tests on an instrument's reliability and validity, and publish the results in a test manual. Firms like ETS were doing that, at least the last time I looked (2003) . The process is much too expensive and time consuming for the makers of most internet tests. It's probably a safe bet that any test that somebody hasn't been paid to create is of unknown reliability and validity (probably low). As you suggested, "follow the money." Here is a comment from a review of a very popular test (the other one alluded to above): "The method of evaluating this test's reliability is known only to the test's creator and God, and even God might have some questions."

Watch out for this guy....troublemaker......

Singing this from the time I hit LasCruces Will elaborate after I gather my wit. tried to sleep in Hereford TX.... one travel hint... don't do that, unless you REALLY REALLY like the smell of feedlots and trains. I left at 2 AM... Expensive bed and toilet. Would have been better off in an hourly rate motel..

The 1970 442 and 1972 Hurst/Olds Indy 500 pace cars are a couple I would enjoy to own.

You can experiment very cheaply if that Marantz has two set of speaker outlets (A and B). You could try some inexpensive bookshelf speaker on some makeshift stands, even stools, pointed perpendicular to your main speakers. That might be able to tell you if it would be worth exploring other options in improving the sound in that direction.

That is what I tell myself every time I buy another extra pair of speakers.

wow. I mean - look at the 63 Tempest, and a close relative, the GTO. (for me: ugh. ick.) but look what the GM & PMD folks were working on when those were rolling out. by that, I mean flashback & compare the look of the 63s to the 64s - wowza! (just sayin')

I do not fall under the labels of conservative or liberal thank you very much. GDI till I die!

Now, now, let's not start talking about how boys and girls are different and have different brains and body parts and stuff or you might offend a little snowflake.

Thank you, I have enjoyed it for many years. Unfortunately, maintaining two households is putting a strain on me right now... My first pass estimate is around $11,000 for the whole lot but I doubt anyone will jump on that, so I'll likely have to piece it out. It made a brilliant 7.1 surround system though... just add a processor and a projector! 🙂

Sorry....she turns my crank!

=== eaaasy, Big Fella’ -

Marisa Tomei......yum yum 😀

I have started a plinth build with other enhancements on my Thorens TD-147  And I may have some questions on some materials as I go so I hope members will advise Some background on the Thorens TD-147 model It has all the factory installed TD-160 Super modifications For example 10mm bearing, subframe deadening, heavy thick MDF baseplate ect However the TD-147 has an added auto lift feature at the end of the record  Reason for a plinth rebuild is that my units plinth is made from MDF The new plinth will be made from Tasmanian Oak hardwood timber I have decided to keep the same thickness of the plinth @19 mm thick - this decision was arrived at because it will be best to refit the cover without issues However the new plinth will be higher than the standard plinth by about 3/4” Other changes are to install / fix RCA plugs and the power plug onto the plinth ( currently it’s long wires direct from the tonearm wire block strip ) also add some quality feet I have decided to re-use the current thick MDF baseplate So far I have cut the timber for the plinth and glued the sections together As time permits because I’m busy at work day and night Next order of business will be the plinth corner and side blocks I am in two minds about the finish of the top edge surface 1) Paint it black so it matches the turntable colour and stained timber on the sides 2) All timber look    

Hi all, I am selling my Southeast Wisconsin home and my realtor asked me to take my theater equipment down. Unfortunately, I don't have room for it in my new place, so I will be selling the following: Front: (2) 1983 Klipschorns (Walnut) with upgraded ALK Universal crossover networks Center Top: Klipsch K77, K400 & ALK network in custom cabinet Center Bottom: (2) Klipsch K22 woofers in Heresy cabinets Side: (2) 1983 Heresy I Speakers Rear: (2) 1992 Heresy II Speakers (disassembled to position tweeters at better listening angle, but are being reassembled) (2) SVS CS Ultra subwoofers McIntosh MC2105 Stereo Power Amplifier (4) McIntosh MC250 Stereo Power Amplifiers Samson S1000 Stereo Power Amplifier My apologies for the lack of close-ups, several of these photos are from the real estate listing, but I found a couple close-ups. I can take more pictures of anything of interest the weekend of October 6th. Still working through pricing, so I am just gauging interest at this point. I'm afraid I won't be able to ship anything. Pick-up would be about 1/2 hour west of Milwaukee.

Campagnolo or Shimano? Oooops, wrong hobby, and we all know it is Campy. Welcome OSDoubleNickels!!!

They did the same thing on my old Pathfinder, put it under the intake manifold. I just cut the cable, bolted a new knock sensor to the top of the manifold then soldered the connections back. I figured the knock would go through the manifold and trip the sensor anyway and it seems to work.

0-60 MPH 1.9 seconds

Cadillac used to put the starter between the cylinder heads under the intake manifold. Yea, that was a great piece of engineering.

my check engine light came back on, after I reset it two weeks ago, the code said it was the knock sensor after I looked up the number. I thought premium gas would fix it, but it seems the GM engineers thought it was a better idea to take off the top half of the engine so they put it under the LS intake assemble. I always wanted to put a supercharger on my Silverado... I think that time is near.... Is nearer a word for do gooders lol

yep, you're right. oh, I need me some o that. nah, I'll pass. keep my coin, and my Impala daily driver and save for more antique style furniture, a center channel & some subs.

=== my wife’s cousins’ husband, an avid car collector/ builder, just passed last weekend and being we are more friends than relatives, I was asked to drive his restored ‘65 GTO, 389 triple deuce in his funeral procession. A sad day for sure but I understand there will be many of this type car in the procession. Along with his Fords - Mid-50’s Crown Vic, Mid-60’s Galaxy and ‘55 T-Bird.

sure, sure. I hear you, and have no discussion on any of those. I've drooled over them all for all my life. maybe my most favorite car that I did own was my '70 2 dr Cutlass Supreme, 350, 4bbl, console auto. looked like this one except I had the plain Jane hood. (this style probably for the 442 & the SX in the pic. but as I was born in '60, by the time I was driving in '76, there weren't too many form the era of which we love so much left when I was able to afford them. oh well. I still hold out hope. maybe, one of these days...

if you want to make more bass you want to make the internal volume as large as you can. you can re tune the passive lower by adding 2 - 2.5 ounces directly to the centre of the passive inside. I would turn the cabinet sideways fire the woofer toward the outer walls and place the horn on top or into the side of the cabinet and listen directly to that. you can find lots of passive two way crossovers that will work for you EV JBL Crites all sorts of stuff.

that's cool. while I've seen a few in person & have read about them I guess all my life - I am. what's not to impress from 389 ci with 3 deuces on top of it just itching for a fight, lol?

That's terrible whoever jacked up that Camaro in the back, let it sit like it should and put the biggest tires that would fit all around. But I do love the color and wheels.

When I see those pics of the Buick and `64 Goat I think of a friends late 60s Caprice convertible, very similar bodys. Then the `65 GTO, have you ever been in a big boat-rocket that would handle as well from that era? Screaming fast, only cars faster than that I've been in were a 350 Vega and an absolute scary 302 MGB That Garnet? I think is my favorite red, even better than GM's Brandywine from back then! Believe that's it, it would have to be a hot sunny day for it to look like that outside though.

Wise decision by Pontiac to drop the transaxle for the 1964 model year Pontiac Cheif Engineer John DeLorean.

George's too

Yea, best role I ever saw Herman Munster(Fred Gwynne) in.

Kris, compared to the RP-250F I see the following differences: Volume: 4210ci versus 3076ci = 36% more - that is not really 'close' and not taking into account that the 450C has 2 woofers more which take up more internal volume as well. Power: the RP-250F maximum allowed peak power is 400W versus 600W for the 450c = 33% less and the sensitivity is a moderate 1 dB lower. All this combined explains - to me - why the RP-250F is capable of a lower frequency of 35Hz versus the 58Hz of the 450C. 2 Woofers of the 4 have Band-Pass filter of 500Hz-1500Hz (see picture ) the 2 other Woofers have a Low Pass filter up to 500Hz So basically - no the Center speaker does not have a filter that limits it's lowest frequency - that is a result of the tuning of the cabinet. Jef

64 Buick Skylark

Re 45 deg angles - That’s the reason I am siding with black as I can hide the join with paint But I haven’t sanded any of the plinth yet and could look rough with the flash The platter is nice and original - I could sand and polish the edge to a shine Planning to use Neutrik RCA connectors Will update build as I make progress

It comes with a remote, that you use to control the colors and other settings. I actually prefer leaving the white LED on when watching TV, heck, I now leave them on 27/7 m. It makes everything look “crisper” for some reason. Here is what I ordered: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0788Z13K2?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

1) I was not, but you can damn well bet that I will have one within the week if such a thing exists. 2) I get your reference, old man. 3) My heart just dropped into my stomach reading that. Hmm...the game is afoot!

Mimalmo - if only I could afford to wait for the right buyer! Unfortunately, I've already relocated and need the house to move quickly. Beautiful setup you have there, by the way 🙂 I'm going to need something about that size for my new place.

Yes sir, and seeing Herman Munster again, not being Herman was a trip for me.

No matter what speaker you have, it's pretty much impossible to obtain good sound when you aren't somewhat in front of the speaker. Midrange and High Frequencies are very directional whereas bass is omnidirectional. That's why a truck that drives by with a killer sound system, the bass sounds awesome as they drive by but the mids and highs sound like poo even though they might sound amazing where the driver is sitting. I think @dwilawyer offers a good solution with in-ceiling speakers if you are looking to add additional sound in another room.

Notice coffee pot on Judge's bench-- so it's OK in this thread

Conjawho? We talking bout food or a prison visit?

@Mila1924 ... Haha, "had" the same problem. Open great room ... had Forte's on a Marantz 2252B also, but just did not do the job. Switched to Cornwalls which was quite an improvement. Then got a pair of PRO KPT-904's - problem solved! Even my neighbors like the sound Cheers, Emile

I couldn't disagree more....first of all, the OP said Forte, not Forte III. Regardless, the sensitivity of the Forte is 98db at 1 watt, so to suggest a 100-200 watt amp is serious overkill. The Marantz 2252b is more than satisfactory and is a terrific receiver with outstanding sound. I am not a big fan of Forte or Cornwall any longer since I've fully transitioned over to La Scala and Khorns. However, Chris's comments above are well worth taking into consideration.

I think that many here have suggested solutions for pieces of the puzzle, but maybe not entire solutions. Perhaps discussion of what the symptoms and pictures say is a better way to start. Then you have some mental picture of what may be occurring acoustically. [Understand that without some measurements or actually hearing the setup in your room, the following comments are somewhat conjectural.] 1) "filling the space" is usually a function of coverage of the loudspeakers with direct sound. The Fortes will cover about 90 degrees well, but your particular placement demands more like 180 degrees (half a circle) coverage to fill the dining area and kitchen, toward the front door. I don't know of any Klipsch speakers that will do that and also provide you good stereo imaging as stereo speakers. (I think the comment in jest, above, about having big Magneplanar panels was really addressing that issue.). 2) One requirement for having a sense of envelopment is reflections coming from the side walls. In your room, you've got at least one side (and Travis has of course asked you for a picture of the right side oft he room looking at the speakers to understand just what kind of wall reflections are coming from that side) that doesn't really have reflections, so you're missing that side wall "spaciousness". 3) Note that the coverage of sound really doesn't go through open passageways and halls--it usually gets significantly attenuated when passing through these areas. With the comments above in mind to form a mental picture of what is happening, some suggestions that might help, but not totally resolve your issues: a) Add more speakers to fill those areas around the dining table and kitchen. b) if you have a wall next to the left side of your speakers presently (part of Travis's comment above), you could turn the layout 90 degrees to the left and cover the length of the room. This would address the requirements on loudspeaker coverage to the capabilities of the Fortes that you already own, perhaps eliminating the need for extra fill speakers, and help with bass response--if you can get the Fortes closer to each room corner. c) Spaciousness is also a function of having plenty of acoustic energy available to you. The Fortes will provide enough overall acoustic energy to fill the room (if turned 90 degrees), but you will probably still enjoy having larger horn mouths to keep the direct vs. reflected energy ratio high, even down into the lower midrange and midbass, and have enough horn-loaded bass to keep bass modulation distortion low. Adding diffusion panels will help, but I believe that the comment about having Jubilees or some larger mouth horns (including Khorns, La Scalas or Belles) would work better and potentially cost less and be less obtrusive visually. Jubilees have a huge soundstage that will fill the entire room. d) Cornwalls have higher levels of modulation distortion than Khorns, La Scalas, Belles or Jubilees (i.e., horn-loaded bass bins). If you've got a place for Khorns in the room (turned 90 degrees from your present layout), I think that would be the most effective single change that you could make. Cornwalls have fairly good bass extension (more than La Scalas and Belles), but not as much as Khorns and Jubilees. They will color the overall sound when playing at anything above about 85-90 dB at your prime listening position (i.e., the Cornwalls actually work extremely well as surrounds). When playing into a room of the size of yours, I think that would not be much if a step up from your current Fortes. That's enough for now...time to take a breath. Chris

I would start by plugging in the microphone, run the receiver's AccuEQ set up procedure according to instructions and use its recommended crossover setting.

Obviously, indeed very obviously, this is not always the case.