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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/03/18 in all areas

  1. 4 points
  2. stormfront.org|640 × 920 |Image may be subject to copyright. Visual Search
    3 points
  3. I just committed to them..they're mine now!
    3 points
  4. Stiff arming the sidewalk saved the face but crumpled the wrist. Thanks for the words all.
    3 points
  5. 3 points
  6. Sorry to hear about your daughter, hope it heals without any other problems.' You are due for many good things to happen, I would think you have had enough bad luck already.
    3 points
  7. Sorry to hear about your daughter brotha. I would send you a pic of my arm, but I won't. Been there, done that, TWICE (compound fx). Wish her the best. Skateboards are Def dangerous.
    3 points
  8. Don't have to imagine, lived in Singapore for 3 years, 137 km from the equator. You want hot? You want brutal sun? That be the place.
    3 points
  9. === simple enough. Stop praying, quit bowling. Git sumptin’ done —
    3 points
  10. there was no "mastering" it. if you hit a bump, you were off. Was fun when the "big high school" boys would want to try it [I was a punk jr high kid]. Didn't give them much exercise. If they made 20ft, they were doing good. I had one of the fancy wooden ones with a metal rudder/skeg/keel and tire studs to stand on.
    3 points
  11. There's the answer, were a little to close to the sun, we don't really insulate for winter down here, it's all for summer. Could you imagine down by the equator? I say this because we have left here in Jan or Feb when it was in the 30-50's average and went to Mexico about 684 miles South and it was in the mid 80's there. The equator is about 2060 miles South of here, a little to close to the sun for me.
    3 points
  12. 81 degrees on the inside of the north wall.
    3 points
  13. https://lasalle.craigslist.org/ele/d/klipsch-corner-speakers/6763839081.html
    2 points
  14. He is quite high on those and the new Elac bookshelf speakers. I loved my 160M’s so I am sure these new ones are even better.
    2 points
  15. There is a more advanced discussion that I would like to share, but it turns out that an in-depth discussion would likely incite more emotional responses (which is actually not good) and perhaps misunderstandings. Generally, that discussion involves the difference in sound that many audiophiles are trying to create, but that sound is not realistic. I base these observations on the 15K+ music tracks that I've demastered and have long since realized that most people don't know that what they're listening to on stereo recordings is already altered from a natural sound quality into something that I'd call "audiophilia sound". This includes significantly boosted highs and attenuated lows below 50-100 Hz (among other "enhancements" to their frequency response and dynamics)--to the point that a double bass and kick drum no longer sound anything like the real thing, and even jazz electric bass [5- and 6-string] is robbed of its visceral impact and low bass presence (in fact, double basses can no longer be distinguished from cellos). If you want to hear the difference, simply find good 5.1 recordings of jazz groups and listen to them vis-à-vis typical stereo-only album mastered tracks. Why do I bring this up, rather than the "micro-variables" that you're talking about? Because once you realize that a very high percentage of those micro-variables are almost completely dependent on this altered stereo music gestalt ideal--and it isn't based on how the music sounds in real life...you realize that you have no standard at all to base these micro-variables as improvements or otherwise. I think that many people coming over for a listen to my system are subtly disappointed because I don't set up my system or play stereo music tracks this way (the "audiophilia" way which is VERY audible to my ears now). Instead I choose a much more natural sound (timbre) that doesn't overemphasize the highs and under-emphasize the very lowest frequencies, etc. Most people that have spent most of their lives not hearing the real thing will usually want that overhyped "audiophile sound" instead. That's where I agree to disagree. When you use mastering EQ to change the audio signatures of the instruments and voices to boost highs and attenuate lows, the entire timbre of these instruments and voices are no longer representative of real life. That's the antithesis of "hi-fi". Chris
    2 points
  16. I left here the other night listening to Jimi Hendrix and his progeny from Canada. Come back to Miami Vice!! Mike it does sound better after not hearing that for decades...
    2 points
  17. It's been my experience that listening room shape and size is the basic determinant of the upper boundary of sound quality that is achievable from any setup. The following article is the best I've seen in terms of relative room dimensions and size, figures 12-15: https://community.klipsch.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=79899. Rooms without shoebox shape, such as those with vaulted or attic-style canted ceilings, or L-shaped/non-rectangular floor plans, etc., are a problem for smaller home-size listening rooms. Non-vertical walls usually results in the complete covering of the non-vertical or horizontal surfaces with absorption to suppress the acoustic energy directed toward the listening positions (except if the canted surfaces are more than 15 feet away from the loudspeakers). Not having consistent and smooth walls in the near field of the loudspeakers will typically create differences in timbre and apparent loudness between channels. Much more can be written on this subject, and in fact books have been written on setting up loudspeakers in rooms and discussing room acoustics issues. Loudspeaker pattern control (directivity horizontally and vertically) is solely a function of the loudspeaker's design. If the manufacturer doesn't get it right, there's nothing you can do about it (other than perhaps making your own loudspeakers/horns). Getting the reverberation times, both early decay times (EDTs) and diffuse decay times (T20, T30 curves) to reasonable values is probably one or two most important tasks on the owner. This means that the T20 or T30 values are typically less than 0.6 s at any point, except perhaps low frequencies below 70 Hz. All components working together--well, besides selecting them for noise floor and sound quality (each piece), hooking up the power to the power components to the same outlet (to avoid common mode noise), the only other major concern I've found is gain structuring of the preamp/crossover/amplifiers. Issues with electrical impedance are usually tied to someone trying to use tube/valve electronics. Other macro variables: Besides the room reverberation times mentioned above, the following I've found to be the difference between an "okay" environment and one that draws you in to listen to whole albums, etc.: Getting the on-axis EQ flat: I used to think that ±3 dB was sufficient. I found out that the flatter you make the SPL vs. frequency, the better and more natural the resulting sound. Taking measurements at 1 m front the front of each loudspeaker for individual loudspeaker EQ corrections is the preferred method, in my experience. Flatter phase and/or group delay response: this is mostly controlled by the crossover filters used by the loudspeaker drivers, and getting the time misalignments corrected via DSP crossover. You won't believe the difference in sound once this is achieved. The soundstage and impulse response (i.e., percussion) are significantly improved, and the listening involvement goes up by at least a factor of two, perhaps more. Absorbing nearfield acoustic reflections close to the loudspeakers and listening positions (i.e., coffee tables, leather covered HT chairs, etc.): This opens up the soundstage and strengthens the phantom center image for stereo-only recordings. This "quiets down" the confusing acoustic reflections so that the human hearing system can do its job of recreating the realness of the recordings without being strained or confused by the interfering nearfield reflections. The quality of the compression drivers themselves in reproducing the top-most octave (10-20 kHz). Nothing more needs to be said on this subject. Chris
    2 points
  18. Let's hope so. We don't want her to end up looking like Mike.
    2 points
  19. When the amplifier in my sub had to go to the manufacturer to be serviced, I listened to the La Scalas without the sub for a couple of weeks, and really missed the sub. Even for acoustic folk, the sub added depth and authority to the sound. Some audio purists at magazines like The Absolute Sound thought subs were just for explosions in movies in home theatre systems, but when they checked out properly set up subs with their high end systems, they found that the subs had effects all the way into the midrange, and also gave a much better sense of the size and shape of the performance space, with recordings that were made with all the musicians in the same room at the same time, of course. During the time the main 500-watt subwoofer was away, I hooked up one of the 90-watt bedroom subs, and for acoustic folk or jazz, it was adequate, but for rock or for movies, the bigger sub was needed. As for accuracy and balance, it took quite a few test runs with a set-up CD and an SPL meter, from 200 Hz. down to 20 Hz., with the signal to the sub going through a 10-band equalizer, to get as smooth a response as possible, with the worst peaks and dips tamed a bit, before I was satisfied with the sound. It was time well spent. The measurements showed that the La Scalas start to roll off as high as 100 Hz., and by 50 Hz., not much is coming out of them. With the Paradigm sub that I use, the bass response is clean and even down to 25 Hz., which is deep enough for most musical instruments. For example, a 4-string bass guitar goes down to 40 Hz., while a 5-string bass stops at 30 Hz. Many subwoofers may be claimed to put out useful power down past 20 Hz., but testing often shows that to be very optimistic at best. Also, it doesn't make sense to me to have one setting for music and another one for movies. Sound is sound, so if the system is dialed in to produce accurate sound, it should do a good job with any source material that's sent through it. Music will sound as the artist and engineer wanted it to sound, and movies will have as much bass as the director intended, with no need to bump it up for "extra slam". So that's my opinion, backed by testing in my own listening/living room. Your results may differ, of course.
    2 points
  20. Well..yea...And then on the occasional weekend go to Bangkok, where the heat and humidity blend oh so well with the small cycle exhaust from the hundreds of motorcycles that prowl the city....But then once a year the Thai have a so called water festival that I think is a rather whacky festive way of beating the heat for a few days. Doesn't work of course, but you do get to meet some interesting people. Did an exploratory 6 day trip to Sing before making the long term commitment , and after the first 3 days I was questioning my sanity.
    2 points
  21. Condo = You will be fine with any of those receivers. I’d get the Denon for the room correction software though.
    2 points
  22. I wanna hippopotamus for Christmas......
    2 points
  23. Yes, that does seem extreme. It's not even hot outside there.
    2 points
  24. Had enough time between church and the Texans game to start the framing. After the game we bowl so this is it for the weekend. That's why my projects take so long. Lol.
    2 points
  25. If you have a corners in your room, I would not hesitate to buy them. If you don't there are work arounds and not all of them are ugly. Make sure all the drivers are working (test CD with single tones at low mid and high frequencies - listen for output and no "scratchiness"). If you get them remember that the "top hat" is removable from the bass bin (photograph and mark the wire going to the bass bin). Also be sure to remove the side grills on the bass bin. The grille structure is fragile and can't support much weight. At this point you will simply need a screw driver and a crescent wrench. Plenty of blankets, of course. Each side (assembled) will weigh about 175 lbs. Remember these are speakers that folks keep. At this point, do not spend any time worrying about upgrades. Eventually you might want to re-fresh the caps but that can be done at a reasonable cost. IMHO, I think folks spend way too much time messing with upgrades. They will sound fine in their stock form.
    2 points
  26. I have an attachment for my table saw that allows me to cut a board that is perpendicular to the table. I just today made a few cuts that way to hit a tight angle and it worked great. For some reason one of my sons wanted a triangular boombox (I will complete the triangular top with a metal handle) Please ignore that I am cutting mdf. I have my reasons and I am not a bean counter. I can cut wood but cant stop these dang pics from rotating. Hold your computer sideways.
    2 points
  27. The wife is always right. Why are you asking our opinions?
    1 point
  28. Don't forget the 17 name title of the cup of coffee.
    1 point
  29. I thought i was the only one, except for the money burning.
    1 point
  30. Another thing to consider is do you listen to movies and music with 105db peaks? For me I hover around 80db with peaks around 90. I'm content without much concern for damaging my hearing.
    1 point
  31. Sadly the Man Show is dead and gone and does not seem to be in re-runs anywhere. Wb
    1 point
  32. If needing plain speaker wire for something Monoprice has the 12 awg Oxygen free cheaper than the 14 awg. Just noticed when I checked for a friend, #12 100' for $24.74
    1 point
  33. I wonder if ear wax would work better? I have about a 10 ft tallpile of earwax in the back yard?
    1 point
  34. I personally prefer accuracy and balanced bass But that could also be due to the music style I listen to - eg Prog , Jazz, classical , 70s 80s rock And the bass bin has plenty of bass for me If one prefers modern music that has copious amounts of low bass, then the bass bin won’t be enough Then I agree that an active sub would be preferable
    1 point
  35. Great idea ... should be good till the last (drop); OK note
    1 point
  36. You can feel the heat radiate off the inside of the wall 5 away inside the garage. The inside temp is now 116 degrees on the inside felt.
    1 point
  37. The sun is brutal down here. Uninsulated metal buildings will burn you if you touch the inside of the south wall. Yes, the felt is behind the siding. Right now it's 74 degrees in the shade and the outside surface of that wall is 156 degrees.
    1 point
  38. Why is it 40 degrees hotter on the inside like that? It might pay you to pull the T111 off and add an insulation board to the outside then re-install the wood siding, at least on the sunny side.
    1 point
  39. T 1 11 siding here too. This is why I'm insulating so heavily. It's sunny, breezy and 60 degrees outside presently. This is the South wall.
    1 point
  40. We had free Snurfers, as my father worked for Brunswick, which made Snurfers under license from the inventor, Sherman Poppen. My younger brother used them. I never tried to master it.
    1 point
  41. Time for a trip to the optometrist.
    1 point
  42. Ok guys, Im ready to throw in a 3rd Belle. Condition is poor but FREE with the purchase of the nice ones.
    1 point
  43. 150 watts is high power? My first thought was Carver's new Silver 7's at 900 watts a piece I guess these are class "A" though... https://www.bobcarvercorp.com/silver-seven
    1 point
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