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Just went to my profile to edit my current set up and noticed it's been 14 years today since I joined the forum. While some of you gents have aged I look remarkably the same😉 Funny when I joined Carl had a full head of hair and richieb was still handsome! Oh well...........

I agree. I have heard the Jubilee's so many times. Yet this is the absolure best I have ever heard them. Did Roy do some more tweaking? Roy's Jubilee setup is the best loudspeaker system I have ever heard. It is in my opinion a giant slayer. PWK gotta be smiling.

None of the equipment listed offer time alignment, that alone will make a huge difference. To get a taste remove the tweets and align on top of the cabinet with the K-55. EQ the bass bin, it needs it. Not to sound like a broken record but there is a big difference in sound and performance between the Horn loaded subs and DR types like those SVS you own. Horn load that system all the way down, low frequencies is where you need the horn loading advantage the most.

I warned y'all. It may not have meat.... that's about all you can say. ..... and don't get any in the real meat.... The carnivores will scream adulteration/meat extenders

Okay, here's my experience and advice, based on listening to La Scalas since 2006, with upgrades starting in late 2006 and going until earlier this year. First, how I got to where I am. In August of 2006, I bought a pair of La Scalas at a vintage hi-fi shop. Soon, I'd gone from original "as found" 1974 La Scalas. First, I added Dynamat Xtreme to the outside surfaces of the K400 horns, and replaced the old, probably original, capacitors with new Sonicaps. A few days later, the original K-77 tweeters were replaced with Crites CT125 tweeters. The next year, the AVR power amp was bypassed in favour of a Yamaha MX-D1, which powered the main Left and Right speakers, while the AVR, a Yamaha RX-V750 drove the surround speakers. That provided much better sound, with more clarity and authority. A year later, a second MX-D1 was purchased, along with an Electro-Voice Dx-38 digital processor and a pair of K510 horns with K-69A drivers. That combo provided a leap to the next league of performance, and earned them the title of 510 JubScalas. Five years later, a pair of La Scala IIs became available, so they came home from the mainland with me, so the La Scalas had their HF sections reconnected, and then went behind and beside the sofa to become the new Left and Right Surround speakers. The LSIIs became 510 JubScala IIs, and they sounded great, with more and better bass. I hadn't noticed any resonance issues with the original La Scalas, but the 148 Hz peak that bothers some listeners disappeared just like it did on the old speakers, courtesy of the Dx38. Four years later, the K510 horns were replaced with K402 horns, and the performance took another leap upward. Two years after that, in early 2019, the K-69-A drivers were replaced with K-691 drivers, producing more sonic improvements, and that's the current state of the system, although I'm experimenting with toe-in variations at the moment. This is what can happen to anyone who buys a pair of Heritage Series speakers, and then joins this forum. I joined this motley crew of enablers only a couple of months after I bought the first La Scalas, and the trip down this rabbit hole began soon after that. Now, about you. Why are you considering an upgrade? Is there something lacking in the sound of your La Scala IIs, or are you just thinking of some kind of upgrade because you're bored, or figure it's just something you ought to do? The La Scala IIS are fairly new, so not much hotrodding of them has been done yet. Many are still under warranty. However, you can often make improvements in your listening room that will very noticeably improve the sound of your system. If your room does not have ideal acoustics, you're not hearing your system as it could and should sound. Do you have a subwoofer (or two)? La Scalas, like most speakers (if their owners would admit it), really benefit from the help of a good sub for the bottom octaves. A horn-loaded sub is ideal, but a good direct-firing one can also do a good job, assuming that you've taken the time to get its location and settings just right. If you really want to do an upgrade to your LSIIs that will possibly be the last upgrade, because it will really boost their performance to the next league, consider doing the 402 JubScala conversion. If you're feeling a bit timid, don't know how to set a digital processor/crossover/equalizer properly, and don't know how to tune it, don't worry. The settings are available from Klipsch, and since it's a factory-tested upgrade, there's a lot of support for it. The E-V Dx38, or DC-One, or Yamaha SP2060, or the Xilica, is pretty much a set-and-forget device. It doesn't take that long to punch in the settings, or you can get them in download form, which some people find easier. You also need to buy a pair of K402 horns. They come complete with drivers and stands, and cost around $2000. As well, you'll need a high quality power amp to match the one you already have, or just buy a pair of them if you don't already have one. Once you've gone to the trouble and expense to round up all this stuff, there's no point in cheaping out on the power amps, because they are an important part of the voice of the system. What does all that give you? Well, some who have heard all the various combinations of Jubilees and JubScalas say that the JubScalas provide 90% of the sound of the Jubilees, which is a big jump up from stock La Scalas, first gen or LSII. The thing is, you've spent maybe 50% of the cost of a pair of Jubilees by this point, plus the price of your La Scalas, so why not just save for a bit longer and buy a pair of the big boys in the first place? The bass and HF sections look like they actually belong together, unlike the JubScala, plus they're new speakers, with the factory warranty. The electronics work with any of the variations. You just punch in the settings that your particular combo needs, and the Dx38 has room in its memory for 30 pages of User Configurations. Mine is only up to 3 so far. As for looks, the Jubilee is a Pro Theater unit, so it's usually behind a cloth screen. it's also a concert speaker, so it's meant to be unobtrusive on stage. If you have an all-black room, maybe visitors won't even notice them. The fact is, Jubilees look so big and unusual to most people that they often don't even register as speakers. I've got a 65" TV, flanked by what appears to be some strange big cabinets, each with a 40" TV on top of it. That's what a recent visitor told me. Since she just passed a glance at that side of the room, she thought I had a 3-screen video array, like I was some kind of international trader or something. So. If you really want to upgrade your La Scala IIs, and do it once and for all, here's what I recommend: check your finances and see if you can cough up for a pair of Jubilees, a 2-amp combo of some sort, and a digital processor (used E-V Dx38s can be found online for as low as $500. Mine came from a Guitar Center in California, and they had a few of them), and you're all set. If your budget is tight, start setting money aside today, and see how much money you can put into your speaker upgrade account every month until you've got enough. Keep you eyes open for bargains, and you may get lucky. All audio fans should have a system upgrade account that they keep adding to, so when a bargain pops up, they can think fast and act fast, and get a great deal. Cash is king! What about your La Scala IIs? Well, they make great surround speakers, because their timbre is not that far from the Jubilees, which have been described as sounding like Super-Scalas. Most other Klipsch speakers will sound unlike Jubilees, making them less ideal when teamed up with Jubilees. Keep in mind that for ideal surround sound, you want a set of totally matching speakers, like all Scalas or all Jubilees. This may sound unbelievable and totally unaffordable, but one forum member has a 7-Scala home theatre, and another member (or maybe two) has a 5-Jubilee setup. It can be done. Used Heritage speakers can be great bargains. One more thing: try to find an opportunity to listen to a pair of Jubilees, even if it's a long drive from where you live. Quite a few Jubilee owners on the Forum would like to get more people to hear Jubilees, because they sound great, and they're a real bargain, since their performance is higher than any other speakers in their price range. If you're gong to spend that much money, you want to be sure you'll like what you're buying. And if it turns out that they're not for you, the money you've saved up will come in handy for some other audio gear, or some recordings or downloads. The software is even more important than the hardware, because that's the music.

Considering it all started after being ripped off from the Kellogg Brothers Grape Nuts and Post has done well. Much better than Special K and Corn flakes, which tastes like dried cardboard to me. I'm still partial to my Oatmeal in the mornings here. Wife refuses to buy me and make my childhood favorite 'Roman Meal' for reasons I can never figure out and she seemingly won't explain beyond 'UGH!'. I keep putting it on the grocery list and it never arrives. Wb

Those suckers are super strong for their size. One latched onto my hand when I was a kid, shook it like crazy he slapped both sides of my arm. Only when I smacked it on the concrete did it let go. Similar to a snapping turtle.

What's in that suddenly popular Beyond Beef Burger? Check out the ingredients in your dog's food. Notice the commonality? Wb

Klipsch KI-396 SMA II I bought these from a forum member. He had bought them new. They have never seen pro use. I have the original boxes. They are a 9/10. Look new. Any blemish could probably be just from the original shipping as seen with pro speakers. I love these and I have no complaints. I have to sell as I just bought a bunch of Klipsch Cinema stuff from WestCoastDrums. I'll be selling other odds and edds soon too. I'm out of room. These have the best slam. It is very noticeable. I would play without a sub a lot. They go much lower than the specs suggest. They are actually tuned lower than 40Hz in an undersized cabinet. You can add EQ down there w/o distorting if you have enough power. If you want to show off to your friends like people do....you can add a sub. I will admit that I preferred listening to them without the grills. I was drawing up plans to make my own grills that were more transparent and flimsy....but didn't get around to it. The stock grills are sturdy for pro use. They are screw-on metal with black foam-like material behind. That is fine if your dancing in your room with a beer in your hand. $2000 pick up for the pair. I will let the add run.....will add a shipping option later if there isn't a local buyer. zip 30116

you Canadian? i know a Canadian gal that puts maple syrup on her oatmeal.

Ever try this? It's happenin' (well at least as far as oatmeal goes)

I just picked up a tri tip a a butcher shop a few towns over. This place has some killer meat! I should have not went in there. Picked up 2 really nice ribeyes also. I had to get out of there pretty quick. OK experts how do I want to prepare this. I could find ways online but I want some ideas on here:

Here's Mr Crites answer to this question that contradicts most the answers posted. I have no opinion either way, just another answer to consider. Q: Do components have a break-in time? A: Some do and some don't. Capacitors would be a definite NO. Let's look at this one a bit. You have new good quality capacitors installed in your crossovers. Capacitors have exactly two qualities that effect the sound of your music that goes through them. Those are capacitance (what we use them for) and ESR. ESR is the sum of all other qualities of a capacitor other than capacitance expressed as an Equivalent Series Resistance. ESR is a bad thing. Good caps have ESR so low it is barely measurable, on the order of a couple of hundredths of an ohm. ESR is made up of stuff like the resistance of the leads and their connections to the foil inside the capacitor or stray inductance or dielectric absorption. So, we put our new caps in the crossovers. These new caps are right on the capacitance value the design calls for and the ESR is almost unmeasurably low. What exactly of these two qualities do you expect to change with break-in? And if either of them changed, why would you expect the sound to get better since the only way they could change is to go away from the "perfect" values they had to start with? I hope any caps you use in your crossovers are good enough that they do not change at all for many years of use. Q: But my speakers sound so bright after putting in the new caps that I have to hope they change with break-in. In fact I am pretty sure they are getting better as I listen longer. They must be changing. A: Sounding brighter is a good thing. That means your old caps were really bad and had high ESR. That high ESR had the impedance all upset on the crossovers and you had the drivers all trying to play at the wrong frequencies. Also, the high ESR was directly attenuating the high frequencies. Now with the new good caps, the frequency and level relationships are back to where the factory had them when the speakers were new. The fact that you think they are changing now is because you are getting used to them sounding like they should. The break in is occurring but it is inside your head instead of inside the speakers.

This is the method I've used over the 40-plus years I've enjoyed my 'Scalas, partly because I appreciate the "natural look" of the raw birch cabinet and partly because I lack the confidence in treating something as large as the 'Scala. I def wouldn't want to screw them up, cosmetically or audibly. Mine have held up relatively well considering the lack of any applied protection, which can be attributed to the very controlled environment they exist in. To the OP: whatever you decide, hope you enjoy the LS as much as many of these Forum members do. ~

I stopped riding about ten years ago for exactly this reason. The maniacs in their 6000 lb Suburbans, driving at 85 mph while talking on the phone, swerving in and out of traffic with no regard for anyone else's safety, convinced me that it had just gotten too dangerous. I still bicycle. It's going the same way -- too many maniacs, even on the back roads.

I had a GermanShorthairPointer. A 75lb cat. Coyote smart. Behaved more like a cat, when left to his own means. After him [he lived a long time, 17years] I can easily say NO to offers of dog. I can borrow one for as long as I care to pet one. The neighbor has a beautiful hound [of some sort]. She's more white than black. I/we call her Daisy. She gets loose often enough to come visit. Try to confine a hound when they get scent of something. My shorthair used to sit, waving his head back and forth like radar. I knew he was getting ready to go for a run. could not keep him indoors. He would not stay. Had one place with a Beware of Dog sign on the front door. What it didn't say.... the dog was coming up behind you

Thanks but I've known not to go to mcD's since the 1970s for a real hamburger

I would guess that the JBL would be a little "sweeter," and would never give offense. BUT I would guess the Klipsch would be clearer, more detailed, more dynamic, and with really good recordings would sound more real. AlSO For the same Sound Pressure Level you would get from 100 watts into a Forte III, you would likely need about 300 watts into the L100, and the L100 could conceivably overload, because it is rated for a max of 200 watts. I don't think it would, since, at that level we are talking about very brief peaks. These calculations use a sensitivity rating for the Forte III that is 4 dB lower than the manufacturer's rating, which is about what Stereophile got.

He is talking about the new release versions. I have experience with all iterations of the JBL L100/T/T3 as well as L20/L40/L80/L100/L200 T/T3. I listened to both of these speakers at Axpona 2019 and preferred the Forte III over the L100 Classics, although neither were up to the standards that the other rooms were producing that weekend. I would recommend Dean finding a pair of JBL L100T and rebuild the crossover to the L100T3 specification. This will get you close to the sound of the newer version while evaluating this purchase decision. This route will still allow for a potential purchase of either pair, while still keeping an eye/ear on the new Cornwall IV. If you want a pair of JBL L100T, I have a project pair you could have for $100 plus some gas money @Deang. Not meant as a solicitation, as this is a blind giveaway only, for a friend in need, with the skills required to pull this off.

Well everything else, bread, potato chips yada, yada has been ruined already by "them, they, it" lays, "can't even force me to eat one" At least this is still the same and doesn't taste like the box it comes in! & love it heated with extra milk in the wave on a cold am!

Great movie @Sancho Panza! Everyone should see it once!

this is the goal

... I can't own both.

Finally finished this project. I've posted on this in Tech Mod section on the build. I totally removed all finish on these, cut off the front 1/2" edge that surrounds the grill frame, installed neo magnet on the front to mate with the magnets I installed on the original grill frame (with new cane grill cloth), veneered the fronts, sides, and tops with aircraft grade quartered figured etimoe veneer. I applied 6 coats of wipe on poly satin then wet sanded and applied wax with 0000 steel wool for a very smooth finish. I installed a front to back brace with 3 screws on the back panel, installed new Bob Crites 1228 woofers, new Sonicap caps on the mids and tweets, new electrolytic parallel cap on the woofers, installed foam sealant tape on the back screw strips. I have two emblems that come with these which I haven't attached yet so the new owner can do so with his/her choice of glue/tape. Consecutive serial numbers 139X001 and 139X002 The grill frames automatically attach when you put them on the fronts. Components are Crites 1228 woofers, K52H mid drivers and square maGNET K-77 tweets. Someone needs to give these a new home!!! Perfect Christmas gift! Will post more photos after I resize them. $750.00. I'm located in Little Rock. Thanks. Longdrive03 Longdrive03

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Why would you buy anything from that guy! Thanks 👍

Ghost should be as good or better than before...update in a few. The ghost is earthy with a citrus overtone and a lingering heat. I'm liking it.

I guess I should have said the Sugarcube.

Thank you gentlemen! Sale pending............

Affirmative. But not near the river. Saint Charles is a big place.

Would love to pair some with my 510s but got too many irons in the fire as it is. BUMP.

.

Yes you can !

Would you stop that? It is making me nervous. Folks, this is a crazy deal. Bill

Kinda surprised but I have only received a few inquiries and only one seemed serious....I figure it is a very small niche market for Fraziers I do have an opportunity to give them to an audiophile who recognizes the uniqueness....in trade he will build a custom subwoofer for me. So, they are just about gone........

when you realize that the only one person counts in the "likes" ... is you ... and that a sour note only lasts until you quit doing it she dinna pick anything easy to learn. Double reeds [oboe/bassoon] are right with strings.

They aren't really known for much of a disease carrier. Rabbits in the wild have a tularemia issue, careful skinning with gloves is the answer. With possums, if they are to be food, you have to be careful to cut out the scent glands they use for playing dead to avoid ruining it. I'm not much into eating them, they do a good job around the house and when you can see them are entertaining, but they are shy. They are 100 times less likely to carry rabies than a wild/feral dog. https://www.kickassfacts.com/opossum-facts/ Leptospirosis comes from excremental excretions, and has infected a lot of fresh water in the Hawaiian islands thanks to pigs. So yeah, avoid possum piss and shit.

i think this is great.

I taught this guy some Krav Maga, now i don’t even have to lock my doors anymore -- But i do have lock the liquor cabinet.

@Chris A @babadono F1 DIY kits are available as I understand, but the JFETs are unobtainium. My understanding is that a new source of JFETs has sprung up and Nelson is in testing phases with these. Perhaps an F1J DIY possibility is back on the cards? The circuits suitable for the original Semisouth JFETs are readily available - maybe they can be adapted? All I can say is that if it cost you $500-1000 USD to put together one of these amps, there is not question in my mind that I would go ahead and invest the coin.

Yes, they tend to take on the traits of their owners after a time.

A Norwich Terrier and yes a very good dog. Originally bred as ratters but Jake prefers napping and eating.

One with ears at alert......

This is my first post and I’m new to the forum. After owning a pair of Heresy 1s for close to 10 years, I decided to take the next leap and bought a pair of La Scalas in raw birch. One manufactured in 1987 and the other in 1988. They came with the infamous AL crossovers, which I switched out immediately with new Bob Crites AA without even listening to the AL. After vacuuming out the cobwebs I hooked these beasts up and played some music. Initial impression was that drums and other percussion instruments sounded more realistic with incredible 3D imaging. However, the mid bass sounded a bit boxy and stuffy at times compared to my Heresys. Not willing to let well enough alone, I ordered a pair of Allen A-55G drivers and gaskets from Crites to replace the factory K-55M drivers. I noticed quite a difference after this change. That “glare” in the midrange vanished and the soundstage opened up and sounded wider. There is more distance between the instruments, if that makes sense. Out of curiosity, I swapped out the K-77M tweeters with Crites CT-125s I originally installed in my Heresys. I preferred the K-77 in my Heresys over the CT-125s, but in the La Scalas I didn’t notice much difference, if any at all. In my Heresys the CT-125s sounded less detailed and the high end sparkle I liked in the K-77 disappeared. Not sure why it makes a less dramatic difference in the La Scalas, but I suspect it is because the midrange and bass on the La Scala are more efficient than those on the Heresy. I read some members’ posts on here regarding excellent results from replacing the stock K-33E woofer with the Eminence Kappa 15C. Initially this sounded like a dubious upgrade because of the thinner gasket issue but Parts Express had a great open box deal on the Kappa 15Cs a couple weeks ago, so I pulled the trigger for a small risk. I installed the new woofers last week. I must say that, besides the A-55G, this is the biggest, most noticeable upgrade thus far. That annoying boxy/stuffy sound in the mid-upper bass is gone and the bass is much more punchy and realistic. These La Scalas sound so much better now. Wide soundstage, accurate depth and texture, and clear detail. It’s hard to describe, but these speakers are leagues better than they were when I first got them. The only thing I’m itching to try now is Crites CT-120s vs the CT-125s I’m using now. Another curiosity is lowering the crossover point to 4500 Hz. Anyone done that with A—55Gs and noticed any difference in the upper end? This is a great forum and I really appreciate the knowledge you have shared here

That last PEQ filter isn't being used. Those are the default settings for unused filters (0 gain, 1000 Hz frequency, 0.33 bandwidth). You can mute the filters not being used, but I can't tell any difference in the sound. Sometimes I mute them, but if I've been doing a lot of editing, I probably just set the gain to zero if I don't need the filter in order to save the prior filter frequency and bandwidth in the settings to remind me of what that filter was doing before my latest edits. Xilica allows inputs into the filter bandwidths, but only calculates the "Q" for you and displays what it would be if it accepted "Q". EDIT: The available filter types are PEQ, lo-shelf, hi-shelf, and all pass ("phase 1" and "phase 2"). If you wanted to rotate the phase, you'd use the phase1 or phase 2 filter types (which I actually never use). Chris

Um no. Scotch. Bletch. How long before teenagers start sticking them up their butts?