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Well, over four months have elapsed since I got the Cornwall IV's and I just today finally got around to trying them full-range without subs. Measurements were done with my trusty old Radio Shack analog spl meter and a Stereophile Test CD 2 disc. They were stout down to the 50Hz range, dropping significantly below that but unexpectedly coming back to a usable level in the 25Hz band (my room's 22' length helps with that). I didn't actually listen to any music without the subs. I just took some measurements without them and decided there was no point in going further down that road. That big drop in output in the 31.5 to 50 Hz range needed fixed! So I proceeded to go thru my subwoofer set-up. First, since I use two subs, I balanced them with each other. Then I balanced the subs with the speakers, running the Cornwalls full-range and rolling the subs off above 40Hz. When I got that right, I played with phase. I could not get a satisfactorily smooth output until I varied the phase of the subs with each other, running one at 90 degrees and one at 180. That did the trick Measured response now was smooth (enough for me!) ... +/- 3dB from 25 to 160Hz. Time to "let there be music"! Put on Stevie Wonder's "Innervisions" and cranked it up to an appropriate level (The Lady of the Manor was away.) Ah...that's real NICE!! I also reduced the input level on the amp considerably to try to reduce a low-level buzz that seems to be coming thru the speakers from it. I'd had it maxed out but was pretty much never getting the preamp volume control above 40 on it's 0-100 (or so) range. I set them down to the mid-point and still only had to go to 60 on the preamp volume to get real loud. Noise was much lower, too. Oh yeah, I found a good use for those little circular rubber thingy's that Klipsch ships Heritage speakers with (behind the grilles). I found they make good footers! I put six under the front corners of each speaker. Looks good and I think...they sound...better. Maybe. YMMV, of course. And here's a new bad pic: p.s. I wonder whose idea it was to put the "Cornwall" badge right in front of the tweeter?

(This is a continuation of a deeper look into horn-loaded loudspeakers as a result of an in-depth review of Floyd Toole's book (Sound Reproduction, 3rd edition). Many threads have been about horn (a.k.a., waveguide) loaded loudspeakers on this forum. This isn't the first--nor will be the last. What's different about this thread is that it addresses those readers that are a little more than "just a little curious" about horns/waveguides and why a company like Klipsch produces loudspeakers that effectively 100% have some sort of horn loading of drivers. (Even earbuds are "waveguide loaded": the ear canal is a waveguide). This thread is aimed at those people that would interested or motivated to buy this book and read it, but need just a little help getting up on the technical language. In other words, this thread is a gloss or explanation/exegesis of this text: This book is available from Parts Express (in the US) and elsewhere. Here is the book's website for those living in other countries: https://hornspeakersystems.info/. It's not an inexpensive book, but when you see it, you will understand the price--it's over 1000 pages--large pages and has many thousands of figures, etc. _____________________________________________________________ "Why horns?" That is the subject of this entire thread. Based on another thread that reviews Floyd Toole's book, Sound Reproduction (third ed), it became clear that an in-depth discussion of horn-loaded loudspeakers, and horn/waveguide theory in particular, is needed for those that wish to learn more, and which are not deterred by the technical challenge of learning more about it. Why here? Klipsch has always been about horn-loaded loudspeakers (even when it wasn't cool--which was a lot of years). As such, I consider the Klipsch name synonymous with horns. If that changes, I would be extremely surprised. I feel that an in-depth thread to counterbalance the "frequency response is king" direct radiating monkey coffin enthusiasts...is sorely needed. I've been waiting for someone else to do it. It hasn't happened, however, except for the author of the book that we'll be using (released in late 2019)...Bjorn Kolbrek. (The first part of the book--the history of horn loudspeakers, was mostly written by his co-author, Thomas Dunker). This is as good a time as any to start in this forum. I think PWK would actually be flattered to know his technical legacy survives. I hope that I'm up to the task. I've had a lot of practice of late (tutorial threads) and good familiarity with the subject matter--albeit at an engineering ("educated consumer") level. If anyone in Klipsch engineering wants to take on this task--I'll get out of their way. Perhaps this thread might kick-start that involvement...or perhaps not. Comments from Klipsch design engineering staff are always welcome. As this thread develops, I expect the format to be refined as we go along. Questions are encouraged, but this is not a "social media thread": if you want to talk about the social aspects of owning and listening to horn-loaded loudspeakers...start another thread! You can link to those threads from this thread if you feel it's relevant to do so. If you are still bothered by the technical language even after reading the gloss explanation here, you still have a couple of choices: You can ask questions about those specific horn theory topics here or perhaps the mathematics of horn theory here, or If you are still bewildered by the whole subject, start another thread and talk about it, and you can link back to that thread here for reference. My initial approach is to follow the book's table of contents, starting at chapter 9 (page 413) of the book. If this proves to be too laborious or not useful from the perspective of "why horns?", I reserve the right to change it up to keep the thread moving forward. Here is a table of contents of the book: https://hornspeakersystems.info/images/pdf/TOC.pdf. The contents of chapter 9 are: Title: Horn Loudspeakers - an Introduction 1 Efficiency 2 Impedance Transformation 3 The Horn Loudspeaker 4 Directivity 5 Basic Topologies: 5.1 Front-Loaded Horns 5.2 Rear Loaded Horns 5.3 Full Range Systems 5.4 Multi-Way Systems Since there are 30 chapters (22 chapters to go, that are specifically related to this thread) and three appendices...comprising over 500 pages, this is going to take a while. We're not in a hurry, however: the Klipschorn was designed over 75 years ago and it's still around. 😉 Chris

Starting to come together... I am now waiting on a part to brace/support the horn, but as soon as I get that, the backs should go on and ready for some tunes. They're getting more difficult to carry!

just sent an email off to Parks Audio to ask a question about their Puffin phono preamp. got an answer within the hour from the owner Shannon Parks. how cool is that

Well, that was different. New carpet being laid so a bit of beatin’ and bangin’ but I still hear the deep grumble of a big jet passing overhead, I mean directly over the house. A bad mutha’ - B2 Stealth bomber heading to Whiteman Airbase, about 75 miles as the crow flies. I’ve heard B2 before at sporting event fly overs but this was “out of the blue” so to speak. And there is nothing like the sound of military bombers - they ain’t your dad’s 737. My excitement for the day —

Hook up to the data link connector under the dash. You access the module and record the code. Take the code then look up the diagnostic procedure for that particular code and follow the trouble shooting tree.

What is his expertise in the field of crossovers? We can have 10 cars come in the shop over a period of time with the same issues and symptoms. You NEVER slap parts on a vehicle without properly diagnosing it first even if 90% of the time the same part fixes it.

Looking forward to hearing about that. Would you mind starting that in a new thread when you do it? I have been asked to clean this thread of the off topic stuff and keep it intact so people can get the general information, but want to make sure we have a place for the folks who indicated they were going to post their impressions. I will add a link to your new thread in this one.

Everyone is getting stressed over nothing. Your room will have more impact on the sound than the difference in these drivers. Everyone also hears differently. We are not walking microphones and we don't listen in an anechoic chamber. While not technically correct, there is nothing inherently wrong with using the M in place of the V, or using the Type AA with either. Your ears/brain are more forgiving to small changes in frequency response than they are to distortion. If you like the Klipsch house sound, and will sleep better at night knowing everything is the way Klipsch wants it, then follow their recommendations.

All outta likes ahhhhgain... I love this! Consider yourselves liked! Next up? I'll be all outta posts! 😂 Been runnin the board all afternoon for my buddy. Shifted from the LS to the Heresy and played his normal diet of some older rock. Then I tweeked him just a bit after he said I wonder how they'd sound with something other than rock. Rave reviews before he left. Guess there IS a difference between them he said. hahaha That was after I threw a Norah Jones lp on and made him sit back and listen. Too funny when he wrinkled his nose at her initially. Changed his outlook just a bit after listening to her on the Heresy's.. Then I told him who her daddy was and watched his jaw drop. He's a hoot. Don't know if he's ever gonna make it but I do know he's loving the Klipsch sound!

Yep but the Lotus from back then shook the ground so much you might get an inch or so difference in the measure each time. The one a mile from here near a friend's house had a 351C with straight pipes in about `77 or so!

I was gonna ask how high the car is to the roof? The heels do add to the illusion. A Vette's roof is about to the bottom of the windows in my Olds... somewhere rattling around in my head is some tidbit about a Lotus being 29in tall [?].... prolly 50yrs+ ago...

The requested picture of SuperAmp 1 in operation: Maynard

Just finished rebuilding this Heathkit AA151 not as nice as the Fisher X100. It does have the cool 60's factor...

https://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/ele/d/litchfield-park-klipsch-big-old-school/7257168450.html not affiliated

In case this was not part of the last 7 pages, here it is from a guy who wrote the Op Amp Cookbook years ago: http://reliablecapacitors.com/oldRC/www.reliablecapacitors.com/pickcap.html

First additional parts coming in: The hat nuts, they will cover up the tips of the threaded rods on the upper most shelf. Size is M16.

Also thinking about those of you who asked if I am going to test these caps from JEM. Please understand I am not an expert on these and all I know to do is measure capacitance and ESR. I have no way of measuring crossovers and all I can give you is my subjective opinion on what I hear with my ears when done recapping things. I have no personal knowledge to know what the design intent parameters for Klipsch crossovers are nor how to match that. I either like what I hear or don't and in general make it a rule to replace capacitors with high ESR which has always made things sound better to me. All I will be able to do is measure the capacitance and ESR and tell you if I like them. I like Dayton caps too and others whose opinion I respect do not so you might not agree with what I find.

Ive seen some on ebay offering work on any speaker and any brand. Cant link as its been a while, but I wonder if someone on ebay offering services could get it done professionally. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Forte I

Look closer, it´s a pair, stacked.

Maybe that was the pair that prompted that response. Thanks!

Yes I am interested in trying a set. Right now though I don't have anything requiring recapping. It's a shame that these just became available as I am pretty serious about not fixing up old speakers anymore. Too much trouble to find, too expensive when you do and always a trip on top of it all.

Aren't there grouch threads elsewhere in this forum? 😋 You must be new here.

I have the cf3s version 1 and had the crossovers upgraded by Bob Crite a few years back and couldn’t be happier with the results.

Bobby..."I got a woman I can't stand to be 2 ft away from" Captian...."Congratulations" Bobby...."then again, I love to fish" Captain..."Son....you've got a problem"

New math.

Thanks for the update. Glad you continue to enjoy the speakers, the pic of your system looks nice. Shakey

Something experimental today and the development of frippertronics after Brian Eno showed Robert Fripp his tape looping system A wonderful collaboration by 2 brilliant musicians Artist - Fripp & Eno Title - No Pussyfooting Album ID - https://www.discogs.com/Fripp-Eno-No-Pussyfooting/release/7386637

ha ha ... this is trippy ... I clicked on "First Page" and this post popped up. I was at one of the special advance showings for this movie. Can't remember which theater it was at ... somewhere in Los Angeles. I remember my wife was out of town and I remember taking one of my kids with me. I know the Captain of the Coast Guard ship in that flick ... not the actor, the real guy from that mission.

My neighbor in the 70's had a Lotus Europa . Even as a kid that thing was tiny . On a related note he was the owner of Sunloft a local record store/headshop .

she sounded sweet on the heresies didn't she? speakers made for her (practically).

The video you posted is very pleasant to watch and listen to.

Boxx was a good man.

here's my advice ... don't do it ... leave it for the people on tv. I didn't go to a straight razor; but a safety razor. They lie -- they aren't safe. I have an inch long scar on my face to prove it. I practically shaved my face off one day. it bled ... a lot. Before that event, the safety razor worked great ... far better than these cartridge things they sell today.

I'd like to be there...I'll bring cigars from SSH. Dave

OK, remember, these are ratings with an associated distortion spec, not necessarily max output at clipping. In this simplistic situation, the power supply would appear to be limited to 5.5 amps and that is with a significant voltage sag. Following the formulas, Pwr = I x V and V = I x R the amp will deliver all the current (I) the Resistance (impedance) will allow, pushed by the Voltage set by the volume control, up to the 5.5 amp limit, regardless of the impedance. At many points, it would certainly be 2x the power that the same voltage would push through 8 ohms, as long as you stayed below 5.5 amps. That might even be 4x the power if you had a 2 ohm load (and stayed under thermal limits and 5.5 amps). Remember, voltage pushes, impedance restricts and current causes heat. Kept within safe limits, any amp will almost double current into half the impedance. No amp is so linear that it doubles when driven at its limits.

Not too stray too far off topic, but what is the correct crossover to use if you have K55M? Dont say AL cuz I gave mine away to another member, who gave them away to someone else, who I believe burned them. I do have an extra AB laying around!

Got an update from JEM - should have my kit Friday.

I have a planter at home with chives. Love the smell.

when you toast your Dad tonight, Rick Wakeman has a beautiful song called Gone But Not Forgotten. Can't recall if your Dad liked the band Yes; but Rick played keyboards for yes. This song I mentioned is a piano piece. Cheers to your Dad, we got along great on the forum.

Went to a garage sale over the weekend and picked up a dozen or so cds, mostly jazz with the most interesting one being a hand signed copy of Wayne Shorters "Alegria". The price was 50 cents each . Oops. Forgot this is a vinyl zone.

I have used various Jasper jigs for all my driver cutouts, including my 18" OB cutouts. I do not use a 1/4" bit. Jasper includes formulas for using larger diameter bits. I use a 3/4" bit. I make my first pass on the largest diameter cutout which is the recess for the driver face. I then make a second pass just inside of that since most drivers' lip are larger than 3/4". Once the lip is complete, I use the same bit to make a full cut through the panel to allow the back of the driver to sit flush with the lip I created. Hope that makes sense.

I love that look! I went for something similar with mine I refinished, couldn't find lambswool but Midwest Speaker had a similar look that was available locally. I like the square look over the chamfered grill.

In the experiment I did with my EV's the Daytons and Audyns measured similar yet the difference was definitely audible to me and my daughter. It was obvious to both of us. I swapped them twice and never told her what I did. she had the exact same impression of the sound that I did and it wasn't that subtle. There has to be something that measuring capacitance and ESR doesn't show. If you hear a difference in 2 components and they measure the same then you're not measuring the right thing. I'm not smart enough to tell you what you should be measuring though.

Fixed it for you Mikey.

Sounds like a party!

Hopefully nothing breaks and I will be perfectly happy. And maby get wifi to the workshop, is all I can think of.