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I guess that might be true and confirmed by my ears also. What bass is left here, it is tight and articulate. The rest of the spectrum ranging from mid to high freqs might be described in audiophile words as "clinical" and more "accurate". So, that would be a confirmation of NC400s being a laboratory amp, they reveal the true nature of a speaker.

Thanks but I’m fine with the comments. They’re on subject and keeps my post relevant. Maybe someone will hear something that pushes them off the fence to buy them.

At first, my wife wasn't sure she wanted to have a celebration, but finally accepted it whole heartedly. We had about 25 friends with us at one of the newer trendy places in Chattanooga's South Side. It was a lot of fun (as it usually is when a bunch of Filipinos get together).

great idea , when we used to do permanent or temporary installs of Altec VOTT , and JBL pro units , we used to have the amps and gear hooked up straight into the platform of the speakers for ease of servicing - Today , they call it an Active Speaker

you can always add a riser or base of some sort or to angle the speaker , it cant but help to improve the sound or not to scratch the cabinet , the riser does not even need to be a bolt on

My room is 19' wide and with them angled in to where they are aimed right at my ears...center image is right on the money and the sound stage extends to the sides of the MLP. So I have about a 180 degree soundstage... I like it because you are emmerced into the music. Sent from my SM-T830 using Tapatalk

Those came out really nice. How is the horizontal coverage with them rotated like that?

So you turned yours horizontal? Did you get better soundstage? Or just more cohesive sound?

https://xilica-my.sharepoint.com/personal/mark_ullrich_xilica_com/_layouts/15/onedrive.aspx?id=%2Fpersonal%2Fmark_ullrich_xilica_com%2FDocuments%2FLegacy%2FX Series%2FSoftware%2FXConsoleSetup_v0904.zip&parent=%2Fpersonal%2Fmark_ullrich_xilica_com%2FDocuments%2FLegacy%2FX Series%2FSoftware&originalPath=aHR0cHM6Ly94aWxpY2EtbXkuc2hhcmVwb2ludC5jb20vOnU6L3AvbWFya191bGxyaWNoL0VlZU5tVTVVcS1oT3J6cFlwOWxBdkJVQmVGZmZjLTRxUm1tc1NsQ0ZMMlJVclE_cnRpbWU9dS1fYnVLaVUyVWc @Hilltoppa Took a little snooping.....

correct Gary , let's show it for all to see - https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/203819-certificate-expired/&tab=comments#comment-2680168 Warning: Potential Security Risk Ahead Firefox detected an issue and did not continue to community.klipsch.com. The website is either misconfigured or your computer clock is set to the wrong time. It’s likely the website’s certificate is expired, which prevents Firefox from connecting securely. If you visit this site, attackers could try to steal information like your passwords, emails, or credit card details. What can you do about it? The issue is most likely with the website, and there is nothing you can do to resolve it. You can notify the website’s administrator about the problem. Learn more… advanced Websites prove their identity via certificates, which are valid for a set time period. The certificate for community.klipsch.com expired on 2021-10-18. Error code: SEC_ERROR_EXPIRED_CERTIFICATE View Certificate Accept the risk and continue

Actually, I have Firefox, and could only get on by checking the "take the risk" box.

Four in Corners gives maximum output, for third place, but four against mid walls are the smoothest.

Exactly! Discussing helps sell! Very nice looking crossovers.

Two for front and rear mid wall placement is second best. Four for mid wall placement is best.

Party on Garth! HBD!!!!

So, what has time told you? In my specific case (are they not all specific to each user with unique setups?), it was, primarily, to optimize Yamaha's room correction on the CX-A5200 PrePro with 11.2, but used as 2.2 for music. So while we have similar reasons for using multi channel attenuation, the basic PRINCIPLE is to increase the Voltage SWING in the Pre-Amp, while reducing the Effective Gain of the power amps. This has the net effect of having the signal work further away from whatever noise floor might exist in the chain of events leading to the loudspeaker terminals. If you look across the world as to the mean/average/typical/whatever SPEAKER Sensitivity numbers, it is about 88 db/2.83 volts power amplifier output. I sincerely believe that the operating "window" of all room correction firmware in AVR's and Pre-Pros uses this worldwide loudspeaker INEFFICIENCY that dominates majority of customers as their design target. So basically, those feedback electronics Freak Out and don't know how to handle it as well as something they expect to hear back at a much lower level. So when the test signals are sent our and fed back into the respective Microphone port on these types of Control Units, they "hear" about 12-16 db LOUDER sounds from their bottom to top frequency sweeps. The net effect of this is it PUSHES the operating window of the PEQ's and System Gains way OUTSIDE of the "comfort zone" for which, they were designed. When using high efficiency speakers with horns ranging from 100-112 db sensitivity, we end up confusing these units by creating sounds that are too loud for them to handle. On the deeper, technical side, I could be off base on this, but I have REACTED to it all based on the USER side of the equation. Besides, ganged Potentiometers are relatively CHEAP vs. the rest of all this HiFi STUFF!!

Oh, it happened all right

Almost always black... just got it the habit when I worked in tv news in the 70's and 80's. If you spill coffee on yourself and it has creamer, it stain too easily. Plain coffee washes out ok. Also, no sugar, too sticky when one is clumsy, although it can taste really good.

Mine are deep, just empty.

They make Heresys look like tiny bookshelf speakers!

Sunday dinner will never be the same as it was. But at least there are leftovers now! Decided to bake it so I could have rolls with the broccoli and potatos. Lemon, butter and pepper on the Roughy, veggies were fresh. Full now, and think others would have liked it too.

I LOVE my Klipsch Cinema 1200. I got mine for $1499 July pre-order price from Audio Advice and it arrived in early August. Fantastic audio! Can't say that enough. The horn loaded speakers project clear sound throughout my living room, which share open space with dining room, foyer and even kitchen area. I keep the sub on "+2", to have a strong presence. (Keep in mind, the one YouTube review which said the sub was "too powerful" was using pre-release firmware. That review is outdated, as far as the sub is concerned.) I really appreciate the Dialogue Clarity modes. I keep that on +2 (of 3) because too many directors like to emphasize music or explosions over what the actors are saying at critical plot moments. You can easily adjust every speaker, including the 4 Dolby Atmos height speakers through the remote control. The build quality is excellent. Wooden enclosures and love the choice of sound bar end caps. Everything is classy. With 1200 watts, this system has 5.1 surround sound equal or better to my previous 1,000 watt 5.1 Sony system, but with the addition of real Dolby Atmos front and rear speakers (not virtual). Thus 5.1.4. Also has two HDMI inputs besides the HDMI eArc. This isn't just a soundbar, it's a system which re-creates a theatrical experience. Soundbars systems like this are becoming the new audio/video receivers -- the junction of various equipment like TVs, gaming consoles, UHD Blu-ray players all connected. ==== The only quibble I have is a few times in the couple months I've owned this Klipsch Cinema 1200, I've had no audio after muting/un-muting related actions. I will often mute soundbar for several minutes for a phone call or something that needs my attention -- and then when un-muting, the LED display shows volume numbers like there's audio, but there's not. I have reported this intermittent issue to Klipsch, but putting it here in this public review may get faster action. Twice I have muted, and actually turned off the TV/soundbar because the other task was taking longer than I thought. Then when I turned back on the TV, the soundbar LED display showed volume numbers (no longer muted, allegedly). Which is also strange because I had muted, but not un-muted. But hitting volume up and down there's still no audio. When there's no audio like this, then hitting the mute button and un-muting does not fix the issue. Audio is still gone. The other 4 times (so far) were just simple muting, then unmuting a few minutes later. Did not involve turning off the TV while still muted. However, in all these instances turning offf the soundbar with the remote, turning it back on does not restore audio. Cycling through HDMI sources does not restore audio. ONLY actually turning off the electricity (power plug pull) and plugging back in makes the soundbar audio return. I've now installed a power strip behind the TV with only the soundbar plugged into it, so I can easily turn electrical power off and back on for when this happens. I do not want a replacement. I love my Klipsch Cinema 1200. I think a simple firmware update could solve this issue. Something with the muting function is timing out when muted for several minutes and only hard electrical power turn off/restoration brings back audio. Something is timing out. I think a firmware update would fix if if they focused on the muting commands. Just this morning (10/15/2021) I turned on the TV and soundbar and there was no audio. This is the first time it's happened without muting being involved. I turned off the power strip and turned back on. Audio restored. Just to make sure, I first turned off the soundbar with the Klipsch remote and turned back on, but that didn't do anything. Hard power off/on fixes it. Again, I really love this Klipsch Cinema 1200. The one intermittent problem can probably be fixed in the next firmware update.

I recommend four; you could always sell any you feel are overkill (Right, like worrying about sealing the bag of chips so they don’t go stale, like that’s ever gonna happen). My experience is unique, but may be useful. At the suggestion of a thread started by Carl @CECAA850, I found my way to a thread on the AVS forum about the Anarchy Exodus tapped horn (TH) sub, which is flat to 25hz. TH subs are not true horn subs, IMO, they’re a hybrid between direct radiator and horn. Due to the 6.5” woofer, compared to full horn subs with larger woofers, they require relatively little space. I built five (my younger son has #5) eventually. In the cluttered photo below there are four subs. They’re in the corners next to and behind the HIPs. Adding extra subs does not lower the extension, but it does raise the SPL. Also, multiple subs provide location options enabling you to address room peculiarities. The addition of the first sub was a dramatic improvement. Adding the second sub resulted in an improvement, but less dramatic than the first, and so on. There is definitely a diminishing return factor. If high decibel output is a regular thing, then more subs would be required. The above photo is, IIRC, an Anarchy Exodus TH under construction in Carl’s garage.

What I can't figure out is why this thread even exists ... Skippy wasn't listed as one of the choices, so apparently this is exclusionary. Not to mention those allergic to peanuts that are being terrorized by this peanut discussion. Why should a person who, through no fault of their own, has a peanut allergy basically have it thrown in their face by those unsympathetic to their plight. Peanut Butter PTSD is a real thing! So Klipsch hates those with peanut allergy is what I'm taking away from this discussion. By the time I get back from my meeting with the therapist I'll probably have forgiven you all though.

Since you have money to burn, go with Mcintosh MC30 monos, or an MC240 with an MX110Z preamp. You will be happy.

why do people modify speaker cabinets when they have no idea what impact those modifications will do to the overall sound of a speaker? I have no added bracing on my 40 plus YO Fortes and have never thought they resonate too much or need extra bracing.