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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/21/22 in all areas

  1. Here is a set I finished recently that is the prettiest wood I have had the privileged of working with.
    5 points
  2. Good Evening, I just wanted to post a thank you to the forum. I have been in the process of building a set of clone La Scalas over the past couple months and have read many of your threads to find necessary specs, prints, etc... Years ago, while helping my uncle set up for an event he was DJing, I was taken aback by his set of La Scalas. I got married back in August and asked him to borrow them for the wedding not knowing he had sold them years ago. He pointed me in the direction of his friend who had bought them and I was able to use them. Long story short, I got bit pretty hard by the Klipsch bug recently. -Evan
    3 points
  3. 3 points
  4. Just re-read the rest of the post and realized I never replied back to the issue I had. Ended up being a cracked solder point somewhere inside, cost me about $80 to get fixed. Went to a guy here in Denver, Dr. Dan's Audio Repair, super nice guy and can't recommend him enough if you are local and need help with any issues.
    3 points
  5. Bearer of bad news, but this is very bad advice, and it should not be repeated. Some days we come here and learn new things. Today is one of those. I totally understand how this setting can be misunderstood though. Here are the facts. This setting has got nothing to do with the nominal impedance of your speakers. In short, what a lower impedance setting of a consumer AVR generally does is engage a circuit that significantly limits the output voltage of the AVR. This is solely for the purposes of continuous multichannel high power heat dissipation testing by the electrical product certifiers. In other words, it's actual purpose has nothing to do with real-world usage. This setting is there so the manufacture can get a certifiate, nothing more. The Onkyo (and other AVR's) impedance setting should never be used, and only be kept at the default setting. The Low Z mode effectively limits the current available to the speakers, but greatly increases the risk of clipping the amps due to the severely curtailed output. Amplifier clipping is a highly undesirable outcome. Read everything you ever wanted to know on the subject in one 3 page article. I provided the link to it below. https://www.audioholics.com/audio-amplifier/impedance-selector-switch-1
    3 points
  6. Thanks! Not as subtle, but certainly not shouty or thin. They have a very rich quality and as I indicated the bass is very good, better then what I expected, which I presume is do partly to placement, partly to my gear, and partly to what I consider adequate bass. I can certainly understand how for others it would be a problem, and why they might want to sub, but I'm fine with it. Might also have something to do with the Allison EQ unit that I posted about above. There is certainly no lying with these. They disclose it all. They work very well with the MC240, and I'm looking forward to hearing them with my MC30's.
    2 points
  7. I kinda get a kick out of the subjective gear reviewers, they just haven't learned that price has nothing to do with performance. They are always going on and on about how much this costs and that costs and being confused when something less expensive bests something more expensive. They make the wrong conclusions about price to performance and haven't figured out yet that the audiophile business is one of marketing hype and BS most of the time with huge marked up price tags just to fill the need for people with deep pockets to get something 'poors' cannot afford. I love music and I love electronics but the business aspect of the industry has always been bad and has continued to get worse. Same with record companies taking advantage of musicians and making it into the mess we see today. Making money from untalented one hit wonders, chew them up and spit them out and on to the next 'big thing'. There is hardly anything good about modern pop music, sorry to say.
    2 points
  8. lol it's not a problem, it's a chance to learn! I assume most person to person sales come with a taillight warranty. It could be he never played them above a moderate volume.
    2 points
  9. Thank you. It's been a lot of fun listening to them for the last couple of evenings. I ordered a Dayton Audio hybrid tube amp (hta100bt), but perhaps will pursue making one in the future. Currently they have been stained with Danish Oil. I'll probably do a couple more coats to make it a touch darker and then polyurethane them. I used these plans and had minimal issues. I found them in another thread on this forum. There were a couple pieces I had to trim with a router once the cabinet was assembled, which is probably due to a mixture of cutting inaccurately and 3/4" plywood being slightly thinner than its nominal size. I made all of the dimension cuts with a circular saw with a clamp-on saw guide (60 tooth blade).
    2 points
  10. Good thing your amp has a protection circuit and was shutting itself down. Glad you found the culprit, so you can now pinpoint the fault.
    2 points
  11. Really good condition. Here is a picture from that ad.
    2 points
  12. Ambrosia Maple is beautiful wood. I have been gluing up some samples to see which grain patterns will look good for some speaker cabinets.
    2 points
  13. Interesting info. Good to learn those facts about the selection option. The owners manual just states, "If the impedance of any speaker is 4 ohms or more but less than 6, set the minimum speaker impedance to 4 ohms". Fortunately, my highly efficient Klipsch speakers never even needed half the available power to play loud, so the amp never clipped, but I will switch the AVR back to the High Z setting and experience full power! Thanks for the education.
    2 points
  14. Beans And Cornbread Had A Fight?
    2 points
  15. I thought you used a hand truck under the front, with carpet/blanket between the front and hand truck. Put a strap around it and away you go. While one pulls up the steps, another is helping lift from below.
    2 points
  16. Les Paul / Goree Carter / Lucky
    2 points
  17. That's a good sign the caps are measuring correct values. They should be checked for ESR at frequencies of interest, 500Hz and up for 13uF and 4.5kHz and up for the 2uF. My La Scala's from 1982 have the original oil filled capacitors in them and last I tested them they were within acceptable parameters so I left them in there as the speakers confirm they sound great. If you can keep it original, I.e. you like the sound of them then I recommend leaving them stock for a while and listen to them. When I end up having to replace the capacitors I plan to use Paper capacitors, either paper and foil or metallized paper both oil impregnated. They will retain the Klipsch sound and I actually prefer them as I feel they are a tad smoother overall.
    2 points
  18. Just spoke to the seller and he assured me that not only are the caps not leaky, but he just measured them and they are both well within the 5% tolerance. I trust him because ,unlike me, he's very technically savvy. He loves these speakers, has had them for several years and babies them and unfortunately like a lot of folks has run into some financial issues so has to downsize. I'm excited to be getting them from him not only because I know they're in good shape, but he's a nice guy and hopefully this money will give him a bit of breathing room.
    2 points
  19. I don’t remember ever interacting with johnlw7 (he didn’t post much) but the thread linked below is especially poignant and worth reading through. Also, underscores the warm support on this forum and something to remember when discussions devolve into arguments - political or otherwise.
    2 points
  20. No debate from me. People should do whatever they want/need to do to enjoy their gear. Small update to major mods, whatever floats their boat. I don't know how to solder, and have no desire to learn so that makes it easy for me to espouse not doing anything and enjoying as is. One reason I look for oil caps is because they often are within spec and sound great, and because I don't measure them anyway ignorance is bliss. If the speakers sound good to my ears, then it's all good. "But what about making them sound better?" I've been challenged with? "Better" is in the ears of the listener. I've had speakers that were restored for me with new caps and other sundry things, and I had a pair of Forte's that I got some Crites crossovers which were relatively easy to install since I didn't have to solder. Did they, or the other speakers sound "better"? No. Worse? Yes, on one occasion they did, and I asked the restorer to replace the old caps(which were oil) back. The Fortes? They sounded fine, but where others like the so called veil lifted effect, I don't necessarily. Or, sometimes it just depends on how heavy the veil is. As I indicated, to each their own. LS's now on schedule to arrive around noon tomorrow, so should be able to file my initial thoughts later tomorrow afternoon/evening. Stay tuned.
    2 points
  21. Most people here are not even aware that I have been actively reading this Forum since 2006. My profile shows that I joined in 2016, which is true. It took me an entire decade to get up enough nerve for post #1 prior to that. No posts meant no account needed, for me during that part of my life. I am not regretful or ashamed I didn't actively participate then. If I had a question, I could easily find the answer, because I wasn't the first to ask. Eventually I got more involved in the hobby, gained more experience, knowledge, ideas, and felt I had more to add to the community, so I created my account then. I don't feel the need to catch up to anyone in post counts, but I do enjoy when my posts get a few likes.
    2 points
  22. Sounds like it's going into over current or over temperature protection mode.
    2 points
  23. Yay! Glad they sold @tidmack. I'll append the title to SOLD.... but this thread will never die.
    2 points
  24. No forum got stupid.
    2 points
  25. Please repost in the Garage Sale section of the forum. Helps to put an asking price and your location as well. 👍
    1 point
  26. To try it out very simply and reversibly at first, you only have to unscrew only one of the two diodes from the small sheet metal plate, loosen the threaded nut, and then pull out the diode. It doesn't matter which one. This plate conducts current from one diode to the other. When one diode is unscrewed, the whole circuit is interrupted. The wire can stay connected to the diode, you don't have to unsolder anything. But you should tape off the diode that is now hanging free with some insulating tape. About the background: Don't worry, these diodes are parallel to the music signal, so you don't change anything in the circuit characteristics. The function of the diodes is to short the signal to the tweeter if it would be more than two watts. But imagine how much two watts would be at the tweeter. If your whole box gets two with the basses then that's already very loud, and with two watts over all, it's estimated that only 0.2 watts will reach the tweeter. This is just to reassure you. And the screw I mentioned which is in some speakers magnetic is the one in the picture above left. Test it with a small magnet. if it reacts, remove it. For now, you can try this until you find a non-magnetic replacement.
    1 point
  27. They sound GREAT! The bass is fine. Yes a tad light, but very respectable and fine for my tastes. Listening to a 2 eye copy of Miles' In A Silent Way, and we started to blow yes it was a little sharp, but then I remembered that it's ALWAYS a little sharp when he blows. In any event, I think I'm going to have a lot of fun with these. Heinz can you show me with a picture where these diodes are if I do want to try it out? Thanks! and thanks for your feedback, and everybody else for your extremely helpful and kind advice. I'm extremely happy right now.
    1 point
  28. https://rochester.craigslist.org/ele/d/rochester-klipsch-kg4-vintage-speakers/7434922767.html No affiliation or interest.
    1 point
  29. I've never used these types of caps before, are those the type I'm looking for? I did find some axial Vishay's that may work but do not know anything about them. https://www.mouser.com/c/passive-components/capacitors/film-capacitors/?capacitance=4.7 uF&dielectric=Polypropylene (PP)&termination style=Axial&tolerance=5 %&voltage rating ac=100 VAC~~160 VAC&rp=passive-components%2Fcapacitors%2Ffilm-capacitors|~Voltage Rating AC
    1 point
  30. Pro records are sparse. I do not have date of manufacture on KP and newer products.
    1 point
  31. I owned the Crimson 275 for a while. It is indeed a good sounding amp. At the time I had a pair of Spatial Audio X3 speakers that were supposed to be 96 db efficient. The Decware Torii II (another fantastic sounding amp) would not sufficiently drive the X3s. But the Carver did it without breaking a sweat. I brought in a VTL ST-150, which was twice the power and three times the cost of the 275, but sold it because the 275 sounded better to my ears. I was always skeptical about those output transformers because my DAC weighs more than the Carver amp. And now there are issues with the grounding configuration too. I don't have a dog in the fight since I sold it long ago. But build quality and sustained power rating notwithstanding, it is indeed a fine sounding amp.
    1 point
  32. I have wanted to try it too, but haven't gotten there.
    1 point
  33. You are in for a treat tomorrow my friend. Enjoy!
    1 point
  34. I have a single forte II passive radiator which was reconed by Midwest Speakers in Minnesota if you are interested.
    1 point
  35. There's always lots of pairs on eBay.
    1 point
  36. Let's just say that if an $80 stereo amplifier can sound similar to $1,600 pair of Monoblocs, that's really something, now isn't it? Horn guys don't need much power, so the "sound money" (double entendre intended) should go to Horns rather than more Watts. This is something PWK used to make fun of in the Ultimate LSH Loudspeaker in Dope From Hope, as "Customary Cost of Amplifier to Speaker Ratio." He said a great deal (50 years ago) with few words that still ring true today, more than ever!
    1 point
  37. It is quality that counts, not quantity.
    1 point
  38. Even though I'm not a Sonos user, I still found this kinda cool. Each Symfonisk contains multiple chips, including a PCM5102A DAC and TPA3116D2 class D amp. All set up to stream, bi-amp, and apply room correction for the two internal drivers. This gentleman bypasses the internal Symfonisk drivers and connects the amps directly to the KG4 drivers. Around 14 minutes. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-8iCWKtsq8U
    1 point
  39. Hey 314carpenter I was going to message you with those details but I was not allowed to. Anyways here's the stats... in about 24 hrs between posting and deleting the post I had 22 messages regarding with 16 real offers the winner was about 10hrs in at $750 (plus the 1500 mile round trip for the winner to pick them up, driving right through that winter front!) Black lacquer finish. They're not in perfect condition with minor scratches on surfaces and the edges are a little beat up, one of the back side speaker covers has two little punctures in it. Front covers are great (though I do recall cleaning red wax off them when they first came to live with me) popped them off and everything looked perfect. They seemed to be all original parts and in good working condition when we hooked them up to the receiver and turned them on they sounded great. Is that Yamaha not worth anything? LOL nobody seemed to want it.
    1 point
  40. Feedback is great if used correctly, like anything. The modern world we currently know could not exist without feedback in all of its forms. Now AI (Artificial Intelligence)... forget it.
    1 point
  41. Kids and cats? How bout a 234# dog that loves to 'rastle? I would need a truncated pyramid shape....of Egyptian dimensions.
    1 point
  42. I thought about that too. The support rod is removable and can be cut down in length. I suppose that a wood dowel rod could be used too which would allow anyone the ability to shorten the rod. There will be set screws on the bottom that will tighten to the rod which are not shown yet.
    1 point
  43. There are a couple of ways to get rid of the beaming (and hot tweeter), but it depends on how willing you are to part with the "classic Klipsch" sound. 1) Change the networks. You need to go to an extreme slope on the top end introducing a squawker bandpass if you want to really reduce the beaming of the squawker significantly. ALK extreme slope networks are highly recommended for this and the classic Klipsch sound is retained. This really works well and improves the imaging and power handling significantly. The midrange hash all goes away. I know well about this option. 2) Change the squawker. There are a few different options out there such as the Altec horns or Trachorns. This works best I hear but requires additional mods to the networks and the sound is no longer like a Khorn or other Heritage speaker. I don't know very much about this option. My recommendation is to not change the tweeters but instead consider extreme slope networks. They include adjustable tweeter attenuators, as well adjustable squawker settings. http://alkeng.com/
    1 point
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