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Here is a set I finished recently that is the prettiest wood I have had the privileged of working with.

Good Evening, I just wanted to post a thank you to the forum. I have been in the process of building a set of clone La Scalas over the past couple months and have read many of your threads to find necessary specs, prints, etc... Years ago, while helping my uncle set up for an event he was DJing, I was taken aback by his set of La Scalas. I got married back in August and asked him to borrow them for the wedding not knowing he had sold them years ago. He pointed me in the direction of his friend who had bought them and I was able to use them. Long story short, I got bit pretty hard by the Klipsch bug recently. -Evan

nm

Just re-read the rest of the post and realized I never replied back to the issue I had. Ended up being a cracked solder point somewhere inside, cost me about $80 to get fixed. Went to a guy here in Denver, Dr. Dan's Audio Repair, super nice guy and can't recommend him enough if you are local and need help with any issues.

Bearer of bad news, but this is very bad advice, and it should not be repeated. Some days we come here and learn new things. Today is one of those. I totally understand how this setting can be misunderstood though. Here are the facts. This setting has got nothing to do with the nominal impedance of your speakers. In short, what a lower impedance setting of a consumer AVR generally does is engage a circuit that significantly limits the output voltage of the AVR. This is solely for the purposes of continuous multichannel high power heat dissipation testing by the electrical product certifiers. In other words, it's actual purpose has nothing to do with real-world usage. This setting is there so the manufacture can get a certifiate, nothing more. The Onkyo (and other AVR's) impedance setting should never be used, and only be kept at the default setting. The Low Z mode effectively limits the current available to the speakers, but greatly increases the risk of clipping the amps due to the severely curtailed output. Amplifier clipping is a highly undesirable outcome. Read everything you ever wanted to know on the subject in one 3 page article. I provided the link to it below. https://www.audioholics.com/audio-amplifier/impedance-selector-switch-1

Thanks! Not as subtle, but certainly not shouty or thin. They have a very rich quality and as I indicated the bass is very good, better then what I expected, which I presume is do partly to placement, partly to my gear, and partly to what I consider adequate bass. I can certainly understand how for others it would be a problem, and why they might want to sub, but I'm fine with it. Might also have something to do with the Allison EQ unit that I posted about above. There is certainly no lying with these. They disclose it all. They work very well with the MC240, and I'm looking forward to hearing them with my MC30's.

Sold

I kinda get a kick out of the subjective gear reviewers, they just haven't learned that price has nothing to do with performance. They are always going on and on about how much this costs and that costs and being confused when something less expensive bests something more expensive. They make the wrong conclusions about price to performance and haven't figured out yet that the audiophile business is one of marketing hype and BS most of the time with huge marked up price tags just to fill the need for people with deep pockets to get something 'poors' cannot afford. I love music and I love electronics but the business aspect of the industry has always been bad and has continued to get worse. Same with record companies taking advantage of musicians and making it into the mess we see today. Making money from untalented one hit wonders, chew them up and spit them out and on to the next 'big thing'. There is hardly anything good about modern pop music, sorry to say.

lol it's not a problem, it's a chance to learn! I assume most person to person sales come with a taillight warranty. It could be he never played them above a moderate volume.

Thank you. It's been a lot of fun listening to them for the last couple of evenings. I ordered a Dayton Audio hybrid tube amp (hta100bt), but perhaps will pursue making one in the future. Currently they have been stained with Danish Oil. I'll probably do a couple more coats to make it a touch darker and then polyurethane them. I used these plans and had minimal issues. I found them in another thread on this forum. There were a couple pieces I had to trim with a router once the cabinet was assembled, which is probably due to a mixture of cutting inaccurately and 3/4" plywood being slightly thinner than its nominal size. I made all of the dimension cuts with a circular saw with a clamp-on saw guide (60 tooth blade).

Good thing your amp has a protection circuit and was shutting itself down. Glad you found the culprit, so you can now pinpoint the fault.

Really good condition. Here is a picture from that ad.

Ambrosia Maple is beautiful wood. I have been gluing up some samples to see which grain patterns will look good for some speaker cabinets.

Interesting info. Good to learn those facts about the selection option. The owners manual just states, "If the impedance of any speaker is 4 ohms or more but less than 6, set the minimum speaker impedance to 4 ohms". Fortunately, my highly efficient Klipsch speakers never even needed half the available power to play loud, so the amp never clipped, but I will switch the AVR back to the High Z setting and experience full power! Thanks for the education.

Beans And Cornbread Had A Fight?

I thought you used a hand truck under the front, with carpet/blanket between the front and hand truck. Put a strap around it and away you go. While one pulls up the steps, another is helping lift from below.

Les Paul / Goree Carter / Lucky

That's a good sign the caps are measuring correct values. They should be checked for ESR at frequencies of interest, 500Hz and up for 13uF and 4.5kHz and up for the 2uF. My La Scala's from 1982 have the original oil filled capacitors in them and last I tested them they were within acceptable parameters so I left them in there as the speakers confirm they sound great. If you can keep it original, I.e. you like the sound of them then I recommend leaving them stock for a while and listen to them. When I end up having to replace the capacitors I plan to use Paper capacitors, either paper and foil or metallized paper both oil impregnated. They will retain the Klipsch sound and I actually prefer them as I feel they are a tad smoother overall.

Just spoke to the seller and he assured me that not only are the caps not leaky, but he just measured them and they are both well within the 5% tolerance. I trust him because ,unlike me, he's very technically savvy. He loves these speakers, has had them for several years and babies them and unfortunately like a lot of folks has run into some financial issues so has to downsize. I'm excited to be getting them from him not only because I know they're in good shape, but he's a nice guy and hopefully this money will give him a bit of breathing room.

I don’t remember ever interacting with johnlw7 (he didn’t post much) but the thread linked below is especially poignant and worth reading through. Also, underscores the warm support on this forum and something to remember when discussions devolve into arguments - political or otherwise.

No debate from me. People should do whatever they want/need to do to enjoy their gear. Small update to major mods, whatever floats their boat. I don't know how to solder, and have no desire to learn so that makes it easy for me to espouse not doing anything and enjoying as is. One reason I look for oil caps is because they often are within spec and sound great, and because I don't measure them anyway ignorance is bliss. If the speakers sound good to my ears, then it's all good. "But what about making them sound better?" I've been challenged with? "Better" is in the ears of the listener. I've had speakers that were restored for me with new caps and other sundry things, and I had a pair of Forte's that I got some Crites crossovers which were relatively easy to install since I didn't have to solder. Did they, or the other speakers sound "better"? No. Worse? Yes, on one occasion they did, and I asked the restorer to replace the old caps(which were oil) back. The Fortes? They sounded fine, but where others like the so called veil lifted effect, I don't necessarily. Or, sometimes it just depends on how heavy the veil is. As I indicated, to each their own. LS's now on schedule to arrive around noon tomorrow, so should be able to file my initial thoughts later tomorrow afternoon/evening. Stay tuned.

Most people here are not even aware that I have been actively reading this Forum since 2006. My profile shows that I joined in 2016, which is true. It took me an entire decade to get up enough nerve for post #1 prior to that. No posts meant no account needed, for me during that part of my life. I am not regretful or ashamed I didn't actively participate then. If I had a question, I could easily find the answer, because I wasn't the first to ask. Eventually I got more involved in the hobby, gained more experience, knowledge, ideas, and felt I had more to add to the community, so I created my account then. I don't feel the need to catch up to anyone in post counts, but I do enjoy when my posts get a few likes.

Sounds like it's going into over current or over temperature protection mode.

Yay! Glad they sold @tidmack. I'll append the title to SOLD.... but this thread will never die.

No forum got stupid.

They sound GREAT! The bass is fine. Yes a tad light, but very respectable and fine for my tastes. Listening to a 2 eye copy of Miles' In A Silent Way, and we started to blow yes it was a little sharp, but then I remembered that it's ALWAYS a little sharp when he blows. In any event, I think I'm going to have a lot of fun with these. Heinz can you show me with a picture where these diodes are if I do want to try it out? Thanks! and thanks for your feedback, and everybody else for your extremely helpful and kind advice. I'm extremely happy right now.

from the listing " Klipsch floor stand speakers. The cabinets have some minor marks. Sound is good. " -

looks like its a superficial dent on the center dust cap so it will not affect the sound or get worse over time. you can try to flatten it back out if you have access to it from the back side but tape wont do anything for that, its too small & sharp of a dent on a very rigid material. best to just leave it be IMO.

They need to be correct klipsch passives to work right or to confirm the weight/mass of the cone is the same as klipsch. these are relatively rare & hard to come by so i would take advantage of buying a single when its available then locating another single or if by chance you find a pair you can always sell the single for what you paid if it was a reasonable price. i would check with dtr20 to see what he will sell it for.

Another great one lost.

your 40$ restocking fee isn't unreasonable at all, actually it's quit generous of you to take them back

Hello. Still for sale?

Yup exactly. If the rails is say 35v and its rated to deliver current into a specific load, if you change the impedance setting lower it will not allow the outputs to swing up to their rail potential, it will limit them to where the maximum output current is. My example above for 160 watts into 6 ohms is 31v, this is about 5 amps of current and most likely the most the output is allowed to deliver into any load. So for a 4 ohm load if say lowered by the setting it will limit the output voltage to 20v instead of the 31v it's capable of in order to keep the current at 5 amps. Now 5 amps at 20v is 100 watts, you have now reduced your output power by 60 watts. They won't increase current through the output devices because it increases the temperature over rated amount. Note: They don't change the rail voltage, instead they usually use a limiter/compressor circuit to reduce output signal to keep output current within rating. The amp in question doesn't do this, it is just rated for a 4 ohm load at 160 watts. I have not looked at the schematic but it most likely will have a thermistor on the heatsink and if too much current passes through the output devices for too long increasing the temperature it will open the relays at the output and go into protection mode. It also may have direct current sensing from the output which will open the relay also if it exceeds a specific current amount.

Doug M, the Rega Elex-R is a noticable step up from the Brio from my inquiry. I'm driving my Forte I with a Rega Mira3 amp and it's an amazing combination of synergy and PRaT. I've read from users that the Marantz PM8006 is a fantastic combo w/ the Fortes. For me I'm looking at and would have a hard time choosing between the Elex-R and PM8006. Having never had a modern Marantz I'm interest in all the talk about the Forte/PM8006, but dang, that British Rega PRat and warm sound is also tugging at me. As far as loosing DAC connectability, my Schiit Audio Modi3 DAC is a great one at $99 and pairs well w/ Rega.

You are in for a treat tomorrow my friend. Enjoy!

I would open the speakers up and make sure there aren't any wires touching in the crossover or any drivers.

We warmed up to -1F today, nice and sunny.

I am not an expert of numerical thresholds but when a high school sports game score is 98 to 0, it just doesn't look good for the people with the big number, in my opinion.

So what is extraordinarily high? Like what's the number?

Even though I'm not a Sonos user, I still found this kinda cool. Each Symfonisk contains multiple chips, including a PCM5102A DAC and TPA3116D2 class D amp. All set up to stream, bi-amp, and apply room correction for the two internal drivers. This gentleman bypasses the internal Symfonisk drivers and connects the amps directly to the KG4 drivers. Around 14 minutes. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-8iCWKtsq8U

Hey 314carpenter I was going to message you with those details but I was not allowed to. Anyways here's the stats... in about 24 hrs between posting and deleting the post I had 22 messages regarding with 16 real offers the winner was about 10hrs in at $750 (plus the 1500 mile round trip for the winner to pick them up, driving right through that winter front!) Black lacquer finish. They're not in perfect condition with minor scratches on surfaces and the edges are a little beat up, one of the back side speaker covers has two little punctures in it. Front covers are great (though I do recall cleaning red wax off them when they first came to live with me) popped them off and everything looked perfect. They seemed to be all original parts and in good working condition when we hooked them up to the receiver and turned them on they sounded great. Is that Yamaha not worth anything? LOL nobody seemed to want it.

Mine ; FLHT 2001 carburetor, sold in 2016

It was a nice day.

What if one mounts the killer small Topping PA5 inside a broken Mark Levinson amp...?

Toe in

If you get a chance on the otherside look up oldbuckster, he is a great guy. Really enjoys music and a beer.

There are a couple of ways to get rid of the beaming (and hot tweeter), but it depends on how willing you are to part with the "classic Klipsch" sound. 1) Change the networks. You need to go to an extreme slope on the top end introducing a squawker bandpass if you want to really reduce the beaming of the squawker significantly. ALK extreme slope networks are highly recommended for this and the classic Klipsch sound is retained. This really works well and improves the imaging and power handling significantly. The midrange hash all goes away. I know well about this option. 2) Change the squawker. There are a few different options out there such as the Altec horns or Trachorns. This works best I hear but requires additional mods to the networks and the sound is no longer like a Khorn or other Heritage speaker. I don't know very much about this option. My recommendation is to not change the tweeters but instead consider extreme slope networks. They include adjustable tweeter attenuators, as well adjustable squawker settings. http://alkeng.com/