Jump to content

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/24/22 in all areas

  1. Sunset on December 11, 2022; as seen from our back porch here in the Piney Woods of East Texas. Taken with my iPhone 13 Pro.
    5 points
  2. Sunset on December 7, 2022; as seen from our back porch here in the Piney Woods of East Texas. Taken with my iPhone 13 Pro.
    4 points
  3. It is funny because it is true. When I got the HLS installed I found every loose item in my house. The best thing that happened was I had a sputnik style light installed but some of the bulbs were out. When I cranked up the sub it vibrated all the filaments together and the bulbs came back on. Sadly if I want all the bulbs to light I gotta really crank the sub.. I could replace the bulbs but where is the fun in that. @Chief bonehead
    3 points
  4. I made this joke up the other day while I was cleaning the building our office is in: Why did the blonde take so long to clean the 10 story office building? She cleaned the elevator on each floor.
    3 points
  5. Our house was a old house that was built out of wood only, and I imagine the nails were straight in...I think if they would have been angled it never would have happened. Sent from my SM-T830 using Tapatalk
    2 points
  6. Hey there Claude , enjoy your posts . I’ve been running my Khorns full range sending all LFE to them for 20 years now , and have never heard any sign of distress from the bass bins . And they are frequently played at very high levels ,they seem to be up to the task ,( LFE can add as much as 10 db boost in bass) Subwoofers aren’t usually needed for my music , but one switch turns them on for movies, I sleep good at night knowing that I’ve sent as much bass as possible to PWK’s folded horns ,and left the least amount of bass to be reproduced by speakers that are likely less capable, the Lascala may work similarly 🤓
    2 points
  7. Pretty much can not happen here 🙃. All the woods are screwed deep into the brick wall, it would require pretty violent vibration to separate them from the walls 😂
    2 points
  8. All my life I have loved this piece of music Even to the point of whistling it while working 🤪 Enjoy
    2 points
  9. I wasnt being serious friend... Headroom with no distortion. Actually, would be louder than 110. Speakers are 104 dB efficiency in free space. They are corner loaded. Should add 6 dB for the pair. Now that's rocking...
    2 points
  10. In my subjective opinion: I had a pair of Heresy, Heresy II and Heresy III at the same time. I auditioned them all. Both my wife and I preferred the original Heresy. The IIIs were way too laid back, so much so that I thought something was wrong with them but there wasn't. My Heresy surrounds are sometimes called 1.5s because they use the newer horn and driver from the Heresy II but the tweeter and woofer from the original Heresy. The '1.5' was made in 1984/85 as Klipsch was transitioning into the Heresy II.
    2 points
  11. In my last house we had a PSA Triax sub with 3 woofers...it seperated the hardwood floor from the wall. We went from no gap to over 1/4" of a gap. Sent from my SM-T830 using Tapatalk
    2 points
  12. I heard Khorns that were EQ'd flat to 20 hz. from my Dealer, but that was a long, long time ago. Same K33 woofer as the LaScala. I still say, just try it with CAUTION, then let us know whose advice to pass on.
    2 points
  13. A THT or THTLP seldom, if ever, needs more than 10 watts for normal listening with a LaScala.
    2 points
  14. As long as you can monitor your power output, which will still be less than 100 watts at low frequencies, you should be OK. Experiment carefully and let us know how it works out.
    2 points
  15. Don't forget the stage trapezoidal enclosure and pro models like the Heresy Industrial (HI), (HI-SM), Heresy Industrial Ported (HIP), (HIP-SM) and then the Heresy II version of the Pro's KP-250, etc. They are too many to keep up with. I love the HIP's the best while the bass extension drops in 85Hz range they have ferocious mid-bass with great impact, the mids and highs run wide open which makes them perfect for my Front Effects and Side Surround positions since they pick up every little nuance or sound making for a phenomenal theater experience. That said the newest ones are very refined and improved and the price you pay for them won't be cheap but they are designed to last a lifetime.
    2 points
  16. This soooo stole the show though and still remains in so many hearts throughout the world. He was 76. From 1967 WITH the lyics... If you've never heard it "Just Say NO" because it will haunt you forever!
    2 points
  17. One of those ideas not sure is out there but bet you can build a subwoofer horn in the stud cavity in your wall using nothing but simple supplies and cheap little driver. Maybe it's been done and just haven't seen it.
    1 point
  18. So I'm currently going through an audio equipment bug flare up where I want to try to improve my main system if I can justify it. I have KLF 20's with a Marantz PM7000n in my living/dining room which is about 15'x 24' I believe. I'm enjoying the set up for the most part but wondering if a nice sub could help. I have a projector set up with it but my main priority is music. I once tried my old Velodine 12' sub (not sure of the model but it came from Circuit City 20 years ago) and it made some difference but not enough to deal with the added complexity. Plus it would shut off sometimes when playing loud at parties and you could barely notice its absence. The reason I am revisiting this is because I ran across a Klipsch SPL15 on ebay that is B stock for $799. Conversely I have considered buying a pair of KLF 30s if I can ever find any just to satisfy my curiosity, however I doubt they will make much difference from what I've read. I'm thinking the SPL150 may be the ticket to add some real value to the KLF 20 set up. What do you all think?
    1 point
  19. Yes exactly I copied Pano's test from there. The results from there show most people really don't need a lot of power but I figured since this is a Klipsch forum and one great thing about most of Klipsch's speaker line especially the Heritage models is their amazing efficiency so I would love to see a lot of people participate here and see the data for a group of mainly high efficient speaker users. Ultimately it would be great if enough people participated and we got enough data that we could sticky the thread. That way there anyone interested in Klipsch speakers can see real world power levels for specific speakers. It would help a lot of people take the guess work out of purchasing speakers and amps and what their power requirements are. I can update the thread with a spreadsheet showing users test results for each speaker used, they can quickly see the number of tests done and the results divided into each speaker model. So say you own a 300b SET amplifier good for 8 watts and your looking to get new speakers, click on the sticky thread pull up the latest spreadsheet and look through the speaker models to get an idea of what power people use with them on average and maximum levels.
    1 point
  20. Slightly smaller scale. 😄
    1 point
  21. If you want something hidden, look into a Hoverboss.
    1 point
  22. Very cool idea really even if you had to furr the wall out a little to make it work might be worth it
    1 point
  23. You got it all wrong you need to build it under the floor like this guy
    1 point
  24. Rear loaded, run the wire down the horn throat. Grille covers over the mouth and driver to hide can work too.
    1 point
  25. Curious what is the damping on those meters? I had a Mac 2105 back in the day, it got stolen long ago (bastards). The meters were S-L-O-W.
    1 point
  26. Anytime I need to "scratch the itch" I will contact you to put me back on track! Lol
    1 point
  27. Jason thank you so much for your advice. I just wrote a reply thanking you however im a better audiophile then a computer geek and I just erased the damn thing! What I was trying to say is you gave me the BEST advice "If it works dont fix it"! How many times have I told myself that!!! These are the best sounding speakers I have ever heard with exception of larger Klipsch. I dream system would be a pair of Klipschorn for my main speakers, my Forte's as rear surrounds and a Heresy as a center channel (of course McIntosh tube components for warmth). What a system that would be and a goal to look forward too! Thank you again for your great advice!
    1 point
  28. Please post an asking price. You can always take offers based on that. 👍
    1 point
  29. I have the small one the 1502
    1 point
  30. Just some neighborhood rust bucket I took a pic of during a walk one fine day.
    1 point
  31. I hate drilling too, but I hate paying money out for something as mundane as drilling. I just take it slow and turn my brain off and before I know it, it is done.
    1 point
  32. In 1985 i bought a brand new pair of Heresy for $900 out the door and a new used pair for $500 out the door. I like the old prices better.
    1 point
  33. Some may compromise knowing that they won't need more than 5 watts for 99% of their listening tastes but there is that 1% of the time you need more power for whatever reason it may so I don't blame people for wanting a worst case scenario power rating. And that's just it. Many people swap speakers like they do underwear and they want an amp that has the capacity to feed hungry speakers and loud listening volumes.
    1 point
  34. Expand on this, first reason I have heard to change anything
    1 point
  35. I really hope this thread doesn't turn out the same as the other thread. I am several pages through and "Maynard" who started the thread has stated only 3 people so far has done the test out of 72 posts. Most of the posts are just people trying to over complicate the test because they do not understand it. The reason it works so well is because digital sources can only go to 0db so it accounts for headroom.
    1 point
  36. I must be getting old, I was worried her heels would scratch the corvette. Back in the day, I wouldn't have seen the vette.
    1 point
  37. KP-250s maybe with some funky grill work and stands. For $150, I'd try if closer.
    1 point
  38. Yes buy a sub I'm of the opinion all Klipsch speakers can benefit from a sub or two. Nice speakers I had a set of those and KLF 30's.
    1 point
  39. Ok, as always, here comes my very cheap and unfortunately further devalued 2 cents due to inflation. I know, svberger, that you are satisfied with the sound of your Lascala. So it's more a comment than a suggestion. I fitted my Lascala, also from 1977, with new internal wiring 16 years ago, Kimber 4TC. Like here (at that time still with an ALK xover) This may not have been necessary but as part of an overall cosmetic restoration I did it, especially as all the electronics and drivers were removed for the restoration anyway. Originally, the underbody is sealed with a sticky tar compound. 16 years ago, some of this compound was still liquid. After wiring and reinstalling the woofer, I screwed the base plate back into place without doing more, at least I thought it was sealed again which I think, it was because it was a bit liquid. When I reactivated my Lascala more than a year ago, I restored much of it to its original condition as best I could. But unscrewing the base plate 16 years ago has not left me in peace. I always thought that the bass could play with a very little more energy. At least that's how I remembered it from the time before I stored them away. Then I stumbled across other threads here in the forum where people had resealed their Lascala after repairs and so on. So I did the same 5 months ago or so. I used a similar tape to this one with a link to an American dealer: https://www.parts-express.com/Speaker-Gasketing-Tape-1-8-x-1-2-x-50-ft.-Roll-260-542 When I loosened the base plate again for this purpose, the first impression was that this tar compound, which Klipsch originally used, was completely hardened and brittle after 44 years. It was almost certainly no longer an airtight seal. And the Lascala absolutely! needs an airtight seal for the horn to work properly. Now I can't say whether this happened because I had loosened the base plate 16 years ago, or because independently of this, this tar compound simply no longer seals smoothly and flexibly due to the long years, regardless if the plate was removed or not. It is very easy to loosen the screws, but you have to loosen the base plate with a lot of feeling with the help of wide screwdrivers or better with even wider chisels. The tar mass, when it is crumbly and dried out, makes a big mess on the floor, so it is better to lay out some paper first. I used a spatula to straighten out the excess tar a bit, but it doesn't need to be removed perfectly because the new sealing tape that will be applied further in will do the job of sealing anyway. I had a piece stuck under my slippers and I messed up three rooms, to the delight of my wife. When I cleaned the smears on the wooden floor, I had to use some Isopropanol for hours but that's just by the way. Now for the result. As you know, I like to appreciate subtle little changes, but sometimes psycho-acoustically they can have a very positive effect on the overall experience of the sound. It can change the "whole" which, as you know, is more than the sum of its parts. In fact, I experience a difference in sound that is not just imagined because I was sweating and my knees hurt. The Lascala plays subjectively "deeper", as if it were tuned a little differently. As a side effect, the articulation is also better in the high bass frequencies, where the bass joins the squaker. E.g. male voices, a trombone, etc. It might be worth a try to check if the very old tar mass is still doing its job well or not. Of course, physically, the Lascala does not play lower than its construction allows. But my impression is that it plays less deep when the doghouse is not 100% sealed. And this difference can create exactly the impression of whether the ear is even more satisfied. Don´t be confused, you must not remove the woofer. I did it only because the quarter felt stripes shrunk over the years and I added some felt to seal the gaps as well.
    1 point
  40. Either bin will work as the banana jacks should be paralleled with the XLRs. I see someone added a speakon so hopefully it is paralleled as well.
    1 point
  41. In my home town there was a straight, almost flat stretch of road that had a posted 25 mph speed limit for about three miles, because there were several schools along the way. I was aware that it was also a speed trap, so I always drove at the limit. One dark evening about 8:00 I was driving this road, and I saw a pair of headlights behind me, coming up fast. The car got so close that I could no longer see its headlights in the mirror. So I slowed-down. The driver refused to back-off or pass, so I slowed-down more. Finally we were crawling along at less than 15 mph when he gave up, floored-it, and passed me. It was a local cop. You can guess what he was trying to do.
    1 point
  42. I'm using kg1.5 bookshelfs for my rears with a klf setup. It won't be a perfect match, but I don't think it will be super noticeable. You could even replace the tweeters with Crites titanium tweeter diaphragms.
    1 point
  43. Just in case that document doesn't address your question directly... An autoformer has no polarity. The taps on the 3619 are 5, 4, 3, 2, 1, X, and 0. If you connect input + to tap 5, and input - to tap 0, then tap 4 will be + and tap X will be -. In fact, given that input configuration, the output tap closest to tap 5 will be +, and the output tap closest to tap 0 will be -. Now, if you were to connect tap 4 to the driver - and tap X to the driver +, the polarity to the driver will be reversed. Al does this with his Universal to help correct the phase shift created by the 2nd order low pass ahead of the autoformer.
    1 point
  44. SHE looks at him and says: I love brave men. HE looks her straight in the eyes and says: You got fat.
    1 point
×
×
  • Create New...