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No, it's a completely new, aftermarket custom design with a significantly higher quality compression driver. The horn lens is Aluminum but the compression driver diaphragm material is actually Mylar and quite a bit larger at 1.4" The titanium diaphragm upgrade is nice but not entirely different than stock-- a little more detailed and smoother at higher volumes from my experiences but not night and day differences. If you opt for @Dave A tweeters I'd contact him directly through the forum will probably save a little cash versus eBay as they charge fees and taxes. I'd go for the B&C DE-120 driver as they will drop right in the cabinet opening and they're a great sounding driver. https://www.parts-express.com/B-C-DE120-1-Neodymium-Mylar-Compression-Driver-8-Ohm-2-3-Bo-294-5809

Still Corners Black Lagoon

Next up is an original by Michael Godard Its one of 2 of his originals that I have in the collection Its hanging at the entrance of my bedroom

Purchased these about a year ago from another forum member too use in my Oris horns . Liked them so much I was no longer looking for that "better sound " , but was offered some Votiva drivers at a very good price I Like the Votivas But we all no the saying , the higher priced gear comes with smaller return . I am told these work very well in Open Baffle systems as well as horns . Excellent condition - $350.00 plus shipping for pair

https://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/ele/d/woodbridge-klipsch-heresy-iv-black/7455452930.html

Like the pic!! Reminds me of mine.. A music legend suspended above a legendary speaker

Yea, they left their mark on EVERY one of us! The Signature cut or???

Heard this song in the car today, a first time I believe.

So, we are down to oil from capacitors that don't have any, ferro fluid that dries up, or urine. It's not looking good.

Ridiculous advice. Start buying parts right away, caps, woofers, binding post, whatever you can find, then put it all in a box, put everything in a storage shed and forget about them for 20 years. They will be fine when you take them out in 2042.

the effect of the Titanium tweeter is to add sparkle to the sound stage , HF are clearer , more open , it would be equivalent to adding treble with a preamp 's tone control or an Equalizer ,

First thing that came to mind

Glad to hear you're alright. Good luck to you, Christy!

I get that

USHIP, they'll get there safe and reasonably priced....

Xilica makes that very easy...once you know how. If you are using the windows app not the buttons on the front of the unit there is a fairly obvious way to copy things. You select the channel to copy from and to, then a bunch of check boxes to tell it which items to copy. You want things like gain and PEQs but not mixer. Save your "good" stuff to a preset and if you mess up the copy just don't save it, reload the good one and start over.

They sound great. I am willing to meet anywhere in Ohio for a fee. Link to pics

The woofers are the original (1986) K-33-E. The screws on the access panel are tight. I will be replacing the gasket (which is original and is squished as thin as a playing card) with some 1 1/4" wide x 3/8" thick closed cell gasket tape when I veneer and refinish the speakers this spring.

Yep, darn near the entire school (elementary K-6) participated. Actually, I think it was 3rd or 4th grade on up.....you know, the mature kids. lol. None the less, it was a very special experience.

As a corollary to that, none of us believed that happened until you posted a picture of you with other members of the Parade Troup. As I recall, a snazzy red gymnast stirrup pants with gymnast style tank tops (in white?). I never wanted to be the unicycle guy in the parade, I wanted to be one of the cool guys in the mini cars with the funny red hats who had a routine of driving in circles, real precision formations (not). Every time I got recruited for the Shriners I would ask, how long before you get to drive one of the cars in the parades. "Oh the waiting list is a mile long for that?." I told them the Scottish Rite had a better offer.

REW has a room simulator module that's pretty accurate. Click on the room-sim button on the top right and enter your dimensions, speaker locations, and listening position. It will tell you where the room hot spots and nulls are below 200hz.

Dave , what kind of woofers are you using ....... the stock K-33-E round magnet ? have you re-sealed the bottom woofer panel with gaskets ? have you checked that the screws on the woofers are tight is this an original stock LS ? or , are you using an open lower bass extension under the speakers

Yes, he has...☕

This next art piece is in my bedroom It greets me every morning and apart from my wife that I see first it greets my eyes second Artist - Alexandra Nechita

Do you have any pets? 🙃

Awesome - that is very helpful and similar to the manual for testing voltages w/o removing the red leads. Thanks again! Edit - only reason I want to look inside - especially the output transformer - is that the boom was substantial - I mean loud as hell. I can't imagine there being no visible damage as a result. The can cap - looks fine - no buldge - nothing - but sure inside it could be a different story. I'd just like to see what suffered from that boom. Anyhow - I really appreciate your comments - you clearly work on this stuff. Thanks again!

Tx Good Buddy

I am sure Chris will chime in , he 's never been away from the Forum for that long -

I wouldn't waste any time removing and opening transformers, it's just not worth it. Just remove the two red wires going to the diodes/rectifier socket and leave them floating. Don't power the amp up, measure resistance from each red wire to ground, one will be slightly higher than the other but somewhat close. e.g. 38/41 ohms. If you get anything close to a short, like near 0 ohms a winding has shorted. If you get a normal reading then power the unit up and measure AC voltage from each red wire to ground. Be very careful doing this, use only one hand to take measurements as there will be high potential. You should read somewhere around 430vac from each wire to ground. At this point the tubes filaments should all be lit as well and measure the DC voltage to pin 5 of each power tube pin to ground, they should all measure the same negative bias voltage, probably around -55vdc. If all this checks out you have zero issues with the power transformer, you should have answers in less than 20 minutes vs removing and opening them up which is useless, you won't see a short deep in the winding where they usually occur as that's where the most stress is on the magnet wire, they stretch and that's where they typically burn open first with excess current. My gut says you do not have a transformer issues since you didn't blow any fuses, the amp only red plated, most likely from a leaky power supply capacitor. If you want to move onto testing the capacitors it gets a little more involved but you don't need an ESR meter. Since it's most likely the can capacitor just remove it from the amp. I recommend using a separate DC power supply, anything really, a walwart or computer/laptop power supply and place your multimeter to read DC current and place in series with the filter cap and DC supply, also add a 1k series resistor to limit current. I typically put the resistor in series with the + going to the capacitor and the meter in series on the negative side which for the can is the outside of the can. You'll see high current as the capacitor charges up but it should settle to a very low value, less than your meter can probably read which is less than 1mA. If after the voltage on the capacitor settles and doesn't seem to be increasing anymore take the DC current reading from the meter, if it's over 1mA it's junk throw it away. Typical leakage for a good electrolytic is less than 20uA, typically around 5uA, very little. 1mA is 1000uA. Test each section this way. There is nothing wrong with the mod, I suppose the amp is pushes current production rectifier tubes hard enough where a short can happen and the diodes will still rectify the AC if there is a short protecting the amplifier power supply from getting the raw high AC voltage. If you run a high quality vintage rectifier I wouldn't install the diodes. Any who, since the silicon diodes are doing the rectification they have different properties than a rectifier tube, mainly the high capacitance, 1N4007 is around 15pF, this causes a resonance every current pulse that can have a large overshoot and ringing on top of the current waveform, it's just more harmonics and junk the power supply caps need to deal with and filter out. You'll see many well designed amplifiers with solid state rectifiers have an RC conjunctive filter across the transformer winding to dampen this resonance. Some people get lucky using other diodes with less capacitance, they are typically called fast recovery diodes, although we do not need fast recovery for a 120Hz current pulse it will have lower capacitance changing the resonance frequency and amplitude to a more acceptable amount.

Here are the rest including Xilica settings. The Xilica Input settings (last image) were made by Chris.

Hey, Belles 1977, all original, cabinets in very good shape. $2,700

Yes welcome back. You should get some feedback on the Schiit. It has been talked about abunch here. While waiting, could do a search of the forum. Cool...

Ginger Baker??? Think this is their last show @ the Royal Albert. Yea, it's a great watch and he knows it's over forever when he's done. Nothing but respect for him on stage but the last time? Whew and ow he's gonel Yea, ya owe it to him...

This song came on right after. Never heard it or them before.

Not going to lie but I don't have time to read through 15 pages. The motorboating which is always a low frequency oscillation from a bad power supply capacitor is most likely the issue. Also these are ultra linear amplifiers and there is more voltage on the screens than the plates, modern tubes hate these amps and it's typical for a new tube to not like the high screen voltage with these types of amps. I doubt the transformer is bad but that's easy enough to test, typically when they fail they just pop fuses instantly. The motorboating from a bad power supply capacitor is an oscillation which can also cause the power tubes to go into a thermal runaway condition and red plate also drawing too much current and red plating the rectifier tube. Since no fuse blew I doubt you shorted a screen on a power tube or a transformer is shorted. Did you replace the multi-section can capacitor during the 'rebuild'? I'm still sticking to my original hypothesis, a power supply cap went bad and caused low frequency oscillation.

I would choose LaScala and sub over some Frankenstein speaker. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That looks pretty good to me. Only one wrap of phase and pretty flat. Did you plot the group delay and spectrogram? They can help with time alignment. Also, REW has a way to make snapshots of you plots and save as JPG so you don't have to take a picture of you monitor. Can be easier for looking at plots....but not necessary, just an JFI

now that's a great deal ....

I agree 100%, once you figure out how to do stuff in Xilica from XConsole it is very quick! I had not done that in several years...once I figured it out, I copied my settings to my other channels and then ran REW again and modded them to as close as I could to the first channel I tuned. With my first setup I had JBL 2360As, Qpies, and I tuned them with my old Xilica XP3060 from the MLP (back in 2015) in a fully treated and soundproof room. When I sold all of my equipment when we moved... I started over with the K402 MEHs, and had Chris tune the setup and it sounded great. Then I decided to get more of that elusive 20hz, and swapped out the Kappa 15Cs, and go with some Celestions extended woofers. They had a much better low bottom end, and then I sold my Yamaha and got the Marantz AV8805A. When I ran Audyssey I discovered that the Marantz was boosting my bass up to flat at 20z, and I would clip at normal listening levels...hence why I needed to retune. I would have loved to have Chris tune it, but it appears he is no longer here, so I had to just try it myself. I did it the basic way and ran REW, matched the levels, and then played with crossover settings. Then I found out I could skip the crossover on one end and just let it roll off naturally. Once it got past the crossover I kicked it down as low as Ii could. On the other end I used the crossover and it lined right up. Then I started cutting the peaks down and raising some dips (nothing on the bass more than 4DB (and only at 2 frequencies that were not on the extreme bottom end of the woofers). Tomorrow I am going to see how the tune fairs from the MLP, and if I need to mod the tune i will, and then save it as another preset. Then I want to run Audyssey and run REW to see how it changes it...after that I will turn off Audyssey and setup my MiniDSP ddrc88A and tune it with Dirac...then run REW gain and compare the differences. Of course I will also listen to both setups to see which I like better. I appreciate everyone's help and hope it will sound like it should when I am done.

Man, those are nice! Bet they sound incredible also, hope someone from the forum picks these up. You dont see a pair like this for sale hardly ever...

Thanks guys. I've had these for quite a while now and have modified them in stages over the years. I still remember what stock sounds like and it's a been fun hearing different aspects of every change. Overall its been a pretty significant jump up from where they started. Hence, the price. I wouldn't be selling if they weren't in such a small room now. My living room is awkward with a weird shape, windows, and openings. Anyway, thanks again for the compliment.

The evaluation board for TI 3255 has a reset toggle switch if I recall...

I'm thinking the wife was pretty smart for buying a car that gets 45mpg. That wasn't a consideration at the time of purchase. Just worked out that way. It was a car that we could afford and met a few basic needs. 30 mpg and will haul a pair of LaScalas was all I wanted.

I ran back and forth high pass at 200 and slight boost to meet the sub around 100Hz. Another method is high pass where the bass bin falls off 80-100 Hz (room). Those subwoofer amps should make that end easy.

Have you checked to see if the woofers are out of phase?

Nice to see a person satisfied with the good product ☺️. I was watching HP-3s in nearby shop for months, but it was just to expensive for me at the time. Impressive looking set of cans. One of the nicest I have seen in along time. Later the salesman told me they had a funny guy also looking at them for a long time before he finally purchased them. Enjoy your HP-3s, I bet the Yamaha is very good driving those headphones. I tried A-S1200 with Beyerdynamics and it was pretty good.

Sing a long today!!! I'd always heard the 2011 Steven Wilson re-mix of this Ian Anderson staple of so many rockers today FINALLY released in 180gram and trust me it's ahhhhhmazing! Totally enhanced taking some of the brittle high ends off and dialing in razor sharp enhancing everything. @Mossy bottomya listening??? Now order the thing and you'll get lost in a heartbeat. 😂 😎 It just keeps getting better! Yup, if you ever enjoyed Aqualung as a listen you're waaaay cra cra if you pass it up.

And for those of you that would rather not use gofundme and would rather send a check, please pm me and I can provide the address to mail the check. Thanks.

Happy birthday PWK...🎉