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No spinning of vinyl for the next couple of weeks because I'm on holiday in the Austrian Dolomite area. A beautiful 'vintage' mountain cabin. And a wonderful vintage FM Radio as my only 'analog audio source'. Edit: again, my images are 'skipped' because of their file size... So in my account settings I was able to delete my oldest images. The limit size of attachments is a total of 146Mb

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This FM radio has its proper merits and I love its 'plastic fantastic' sound, and the added reason is that when I get back home, I will appreciate the warm sound of my Heresies and tube amp even more!

I have received several PMs regarding this, so let me answer publicly about the M2 (I am not involved in building the "alternative" 4367). The parts can be purchased from an authorized JBL dealer. Choices include Simply Speakers in Florida or Pro Sound Solutions in MA. Be sure to understand whether the price includes taxes and shipping and are the parts currently available. Over the last several years the prices have varied all over the place (both up and down) and sometimes the parts were restricted to "replacement parts only" with the usual restrictions. Right now things seem to be available and affordable. You will need the tweeter horn, the tweeter driver (skip the idea of trying to "upgrade" unless you know what you are doing), the woofer (and hint: the 2216nd is not the same as the 2216nd-1) and the flange plate. There is also a protection circuit ( a cap and a 2 resistor voltage divider). There are reasons why you may want to skip this circuit or modify it, but you need to think it through. The cabinet stock (for a pair) amounts to about almost 5 sheets of MDF or plywood and the cabinet is well braced. There are factory diagrams / depictions shown over at Lansing Heritage. The ports are not available but you can get "similar" flared ports from Parts Express. With this sort of change, the best advice is to make the cabinet about 10% larger and the ports about 10% longer. Then cut the ports down until you get the port tuning down to about 26Hz (measured with an impedance sweep). All the parts and their numbers, filters, and cabinet diagrams are discussed over at Lansing Heritage (you will need to do a considerable amount of reading and note-taking). Do not assume there is a Cliff Notes version. There are many details and they are mostly there for a reason. The JBL M2 is special. The crossover/equalization is done with a DSP. Skip the idea of creating an analog version. Use the EQ on the tweeter exactly. For the woofer, the factory settings are the best starting point but keep in mind there are some "minor" filters that probably deal with some resonances in the factory built versions. Yours will differ a bit. Use REW and measure outdoors (properly). Do not try and do it by ear. The guy over at Lansing Heritage named "POS" is a real resource. Read his comments and suggestions carefully. There is a good deal of home work on this project. The actual build is easier than the Jubilee and it is easier to to do a nice job on the cosmetics. I think this is a great DIY project especially since you can get actual parts and info on the actual factory design. This is in contrast to other projects that I see around here where folks pick parts and crossovers randomly with the "chorus of someone on the internet said it sounded great". Either way, good luck, -Tom

I found it under my account settings. It's actually limited to 146.48 Mb I deleted 25 of the largest files. This solved the issue. Thanks for the tip!

Dragonball Durag / Show You The Way (feat. Michael McDonald & Kenny Loggins)

Cool @sunburnwilly believe Ozzy's got more R&R left in him even with that infamous slur now. Kids at the show did not know Black Sabbath? pitiful. Priest either? so sad Halford aged worse I think, he doesn't finish what he's singing there. Glad he's not in his chaps like when I saw him! Saw both their bands twice before 1980. Heavy and relentless back then! But heck I woke up sometime in the last decade feeling/looking like I'd been beat with a BIG ugly stick so we all get older I guess.

Agree that packing sand is a good choice.

whew.... sunny and stciky humid. Not a cloud in the sky this AM. a typical monsoon day. 65` at sunrise... 95` now. It is gonna rain. Clouds are bubbling up. I've been being domestic. Dishes and laundry. We are having fun now. Well, in a few minutes. Coming up on cocktail time.

@scubabuzz This company is recommended quite often for RSW series repair https://www.ebay.com/str/edwardselectronics

I should be in tomorrow afternoon Meloone so I'll give you a call when I get there. I packed light.

I'm not doing a 402 for the HF for the Belle. I may put a TV on top of it, so I want to keep it as close to the original height as possible. So, I'm trying the ZXPC 18"x10" horn that a bunch of people on the Forum have used. I have someone lined up to make a taller motorboard/side panels for the top-hat to accommodate that horn.

Although this simulation shows the voltage across an 8 ohm resistor, it gives you an idea of the change. Red is .245mh, blue .34mh. Mike

Holiday Road

I still have an FM2, got it right before digital cameras took off. It's barely broken in. I was a tv news photographer in a former life, shooting 16mm film. Changed jobs when video gear arrived. Glad I did, the first video equip. was really heavy and cumbersome. Got to do some nice stories though. Bob Hope, Priscilla Presley, Ray Charles... and the more mundane city council meetings, etc.

With regards to no bass, I wonder if the HK receiver has it’s main speakers set to “small” instead of “large” or whatever the HK equivalent nomenclature is? I had an Onkyo (still do) that cut off the bass under 80hz when set to “small”.

Employees took parts home and built networks for extra money. Someone eventually caught the steel screw because they stopped doing it. The steel screw takes it 40% out of tolerance. Probably moves the corner frequency a little and messes with the EQ PK put in.

The Adcom GFP 750 has both active and passive mode. Love mine.

I started my first absorption panels in 2014. Over time came back and added some grids on some for reflection / diffusion via a simplified hacking of the RPG BAD panels. I have used 12 of the 2" cotton panels from AcouticMac mentioned above. It has really helped my small room which has a variety of walls : plaster and lather, wallboard on cinder block, and wallboard studded to brick. Still at it, replacing the painted masonite panels with stained plywood for a different look.

I found a solution to tightening the machine screws with the inaccessible heads in some forum on the internet. It was quite simple, and I didn't have to modify the speaker at all. I replaced the machine screws with ones that were a half inch longer. Then I just added a flat washer and lock washer under the nut. After screwing the nut down onto the lock washer and everything started spinning, I pulled up on the side panel enough to put pressure on the lock washer, hand tightened enough to start engaging the lock washer, and then just used the socket to finish tightening. The tension from the lock washer was enough to keep the screw from spinning. It also works well for removal. (I know this because I was almost finished reassembling the top-hat when I realized I forgot to fish the woofer cable through the hole on the bottom of the top-hat. Grrrr.) Now that the speaker is reassembled, it almost looks like new. Thanks again for all the help.

Heard the JBL 4367's at a local pro audio shop a couple of months ago. Was impressed, but not enough to spend $8K each on these as an upgrade to my system. Running KPT-904's (DOUBLE 15" woofers instead of a single in the 4367's) with a JBL 4722 HF section (32" horn instead of a 20"?? one). Thought my system was better Yes, these 4367's are good but terribly overpriced My last exposure to (underground) Jubilees was about a year ago. From memory, the Jubes "won."

The Jubilees are a fine system, I used to own some. They are large however, which is why I am gearing up to build some JBL M2's. The JBL factory parts are currently available and will run approximately $1400-1500 per cabinet. It does require a DSP crossover / equalizer. Many brands are available and you can then use your own amplifiers. You will need 4 channels of amplification and the DSP settings have been verified and published. Don't bother trying to "adjust by ear". The M2 is about 20 in wide, 49 tall and 14 deep. If you keep the volume the same, then you can build them about 42 in tall and a little wider and a little deeper. Plenty of info on Lansing Heritage site (the threads are long and the earlier posts have some misinformation which is later corrected). The threads over at the AVS forum tend to be even longer and with even more misinformation I have not heard the JBL 4367. It shares some similar parts to the M2 and has an analog crossover. I have not heard them, although some that I trust say they are almost on par with the M2 (albeit with a "different" kind of sound). My change was simply due to needing something that is more "living room size".

Could be you've maxxed out your allowed amount of Gb here. You might check out https://postimages.org/ You can use their site as a host or get the small app for your computer. I found it right clicking on photos here. When I heard the Heresy II at a friends place I knew I could have some Klipsch for myself. Tight, in your face sound pressure for less than a grand. Knew the Khorns I'd heard were too much $$ for me. Ordered H IIs a couple weeks later.

Been I while since I've posted around here. I was looking for some idea of the efficiency of the various Atmos Elevation speakers Klipsch offers. Like the R-104SA, R-40SA R-41SA or RP-500SA. Stating complies with dobly atmos doesn't tell me much LOL!! I'm trying to decide if they will at all blend intyo my al;ready none comforming surround setup. I'm using Belle Klipsch as the mains, KLF-C7 center and Heresy rears. Was thinking about adding sides and 4 atmos up firing since my Onkyo TX-NR636 Receiver supports it. It has + - 12db for level matching so I can lower fronts and center to match the Heresy's and raise the elevationb speakers to meet that. What do the home theater gods have to say? Thanks Craig

Sand is miraculous and economical, and free if you can find a good spot in the woods. I've also used steel shot gun shot ( don't think lead is commonly available these days ), but that can get pricey quickly.

Sorry having to upload couple at a time there are 2 Cornwall's they look alike. And 4 other speakers and a receiver I understand it's not an auction site but I have no idea what to price any of this and would entertain any reasonable offer not looking to auction it off. The highest bid doesn't win just a reasonable one.

I have experimented with a bunch of different capacitors, both in listening tests and on the bench. I like the way the GE oil filled capacitors sound (others will disagree, which is fine). The quality control is always tight in my findings as well. Their caps are rated at +/- 6%, but I usually find them closer to 1%. ESR numbers look good too. Also, in my mind, I like to think the oil damps microphonics (but I may be reaching a bit here). I have replaced a bunch of old Klipsch oil filled caps (for others and myself); the ESR creeps up on those old caps causing the highs to sound rolled off. The new GEs have ALWAYS made an improvement to my ear that was not subtle. After decades of experience with Klipsch Heritage speakers coupled with a good ear: replace your caps.

There is no equivalent current product IMHO

I got a used HK AVR 1510 for him from Facebook marketplace. It shows it is rated for 75 watts per channel but the thing was probably only 5 or 6 pounds. It was really, really light. My brother's old Sansui receiver from the 80s has to weigh 60 pounds. I know, class A vs. class D. I'll check the settings when I visit him next. Klipschguy, I have a question. Why do you prefer the 'industrial' caps versus 'audiophile' caps? I dabble in crossover design and DIY speakers and I have a lot to learn. I would love to hear what you've discovered by using different caps. I will admit that the way speakers work in general is almost like magic. I don't understand how or why they work but there is something so special about great sounding speakers. Add to that your source and amplification as well. It's a team effort. You play the right music on a great set-up and it can lift your spirits, help you relax, get you crunk, or put you 'in the mood'. It is literally a disc shaped thing flapping back and forth in a wooden box and it somehow changes the way your brain works. I don't know what else to call that but magic. I'm hoping I can restore some of that magic for Tommy and his old Cornwalls. Thank you all for your help with this.

Non metallic screw can be the baseline for your test...

Hi Mike. Thank you for running the curves. From the graph, it appears the .34 mH inductor shifts the crossover frequency from about 5800 Hz to about 4800 Hz relative to the .245 mH inductor. I might add the iron core inductor would have a lower resistance versus the air core which would shift the .34 mH curve up a bit. Again, I appreciate you taking the time to run the simulation. Andy

I agree with the excerpted quote above. As I get older, the quality of the music is paramount, followed by the quality of the recording, and then followed by the quality of the equipment. Excellent music from a clock radio is more enjoyable than crappy music and/or a bad recording played through a SOTA system. YMMV

Those that have listened with their speakers for years, decades, that had the steel screw probably would not like it any other way. That is if they could distinguish the difference. I dare say most could not. As with many things either way is plenty good enough. In my old age I do not nitpick on these kind of things.

Really amazing! Thank you for sharing.

I've been extremely happy with my McIntosh C2500

Who really knows if a steel screw is what the engineers wanted. If I were to guess I would say mistake in the assembly line and not what the engineers wanted. I can understand how a steel screw would change the inductance. Makes an iron core inductor with a steel screw. I have not taken the time to do the math but with such a small change in inductance I doubt seriously if it makes that much difference. Like islander said, whatever you like is the correct way.

I don't recall you ever asking for my designs but In the spirit of co-operation I will give you my old cad files for obsolete designs I no longer make and do you prefer .stp, .iges, or .par files? I have other translators too if you wish. Which design program are you using?

I'm trying to get you to make a road trip to West Virginia. EDIT:previous post was not a lie.

I've never had a "high-end" preamp, but throughout my audio years I have listened to more equipment than I can remember. One of the main reasons for learning how to design and build my own gear was because I could not afford the "audiophile high-end" gear. I remember listening to a Perreaux preamp decades ago and it did not sound worth a fraction of what it cost. I have two main preamps that I use for listening, testing and evaluation purposes, an NAD 1240 (also have a NAD 1130, which is nearly Identical) and a Kenwood C1. These units are op-amp based and have allowed me swap out just about every op-amp made for comparison purposes. The NAD and Kenwood have very different designs, which is one reason I have these two units. The NAD has a discrete transistor fully regulated power supply, the Kenwood has a full-wave voltage doubler Zener regulated power supply. These units have been refurbished with fresh electrolytic caps and resistors matched to within 1% in critical areas such as tone control circuits. I prefer bi-polar input type op-amps vs Bi-FET's. The bi-polar's are much quieter usually. Despite their relatively low cost, these preamps add almost zero coloration when placed in the system. I have tested a high output CD player with a passive control into my system and A-B'd the difference inserting the NAD/Kenwood preamps into the system; I can't tell a difference. I have to guess what is or is not in the system. I gravitate toward using the NAD more because it has an excellent low frequency EQ function as well as a very nice loudness function that boosts low & high frequencies. I also have a tube preamp I made based on a 6V6GT with cathode follower. I also have a Phase Linear Series 1 4000 preamp, that I restored and use occasionally. It is mainly for nostalgic purposes.

Currently using Emotiva basx PT-100 on 2 systems. Good bang for buck, but the remote and changing settings irritate me. Not sure what they offer currently on the higher end, but might be worth a look. On a third system I’m using an Audio Research LS3… Dead silent pushing Polk SDA2 through a Carver TFM-35.

Making models feel at ease while being nude or near-nude (the model, that is, not the photographer, except in special cases) is made easier by being out of the model’s dating age range, i.e., much older, and by choosing lenses that keep you out of the model’s comfort zone, typically ten feet/3 metres or so. The perspective is often better from that distance, anyway. It also helps to belong to a local group of photographers, models, and makeup artists. It makes both the shooter and the model feel more confident at the start of the shoot, because her reputation within the group, and yours, too, plus the MUA, if needed, is known in advance. That way, if the shooter misbehaves (acting creepy towards the model, etc.), or the model is troublesome (frequently flaking, stealing stuff from your place, etc.), word gets around quickly, and that person will be getting few or no bookings in future, or be kicked out of the group. Luckily, this has happened only once or twice. In my case, it took a while to find a like-minded group of enthusiasts. First, I joined the local camera club, who shot mostly birds, flowers, and landscapes. Not really for me. Then I put together the requisite set of pro-quality pictures, applied, and was accepted into the Professional Photographers Association of British Columbia (the PPABC, not the bigger PPA, the Professional Photographers of America). There was a lot of learning opportunities there, but their emphases were making a profit and shooting portraits and weddings, none of which really appealed to me, so I left after a few years. Finally, a model suggested that I should join Model Mayhem, an online photo group, so I did, and posted some pictures. Then, I was contacted by a local shooter, and was asked to join a local Facebook photo group. Finally, I had found a group of photographers, models, and makeup artists, who shared my photo interests. It felt like coming home. That process took a number of years. I wish I’d known about that last group in the first place, but Facebook has only been around since 2004, so the group was just getting past it’s early phase then, so it worked out in the end.

The tool for Pro photography in my day. Still have it. I could beat you to death with it and photograph the corpse...it's that big and tough.

That's a serious, talented little girl @Schu , and how she is holding her fingers? She has a good teacher also, hope her fingers have some length to them when she grows up.

For even money, the 2s are the best deal. Liked the forte' but the 2s are more sought after and agree. Do a search. Just like the Chorus model debate.

Me too and I also could not find the Unicorn. You would think a Google expert would check his link for accuracy before posting.

Description 3 virtuosos of progressive rock join forces on this mythic 1997 studio album! This album has been heralded as one of the most unique and mesmerizing recordings of it's time with each track being wholly improvised and performed by this immensely talented trio! Ranging in styles from rock to fusion to prog-metal to flamenco - there's something here for everyone to enjoy! Available in CLEAR vinyl!

you're not listening loud enough to move anything except maybe walls made of newspaper... I used removable gatorboard... it worked very well and i can remove it when not listening.

Took an artsy night shot.

A well designed 15 W tube amp for $350 would be the Holy Grail.