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First of all, don’t listen to Spinner Head. Secondly, don’t confuse more power with more quality. Some of the best amps I have owned have been 25 watts or less.

They could do a great show! When I finally got around to seeing them it was either in the late 80s or before late`92 when I moved out of Clt. Small venue less than probably 800 people and a freaking Big Time Show that showed they were still capable! Got that LP, have this cd!

Then there's this... When Cheap Trick toured in Japan for the first time in April 1978, they were received with a frenzy reminiscent of Beatlemania.[14] During the tour, Cheap Trick recorded two concerts at the Nippon Budokan. Ten tracks taken from both shows were compiled and released as a live album entitled Cheap Trick at Budokan,[12] which was intended to be exclusive to Japan.

I've powered my 30's with many amps/pres/old receivers. My personal opinion is I would hook em to that 1010 and see if I thought it was good, bad or great. My 30's run on my Sansui 990 and 5000x and was just fantastic to listen to. I also had em on my sx980, again great, just slightly less full but very clean and articulate. I had them hooked to an Anthem mrx700 in my HT, and again no complaints. Even my lowly old Sherwood s7100A made the 30's sound really sweet, quite a surprise. I hooked my 980 to a Parasound hca 1500a, 315watts per at 4ohms. The result was massive bass that had been hidden by the 980 alone. To end it here, you'll need to try different amp/pre to get where you want to be. But ,it's fun....

Hello, I am in the beginning process of building(Planning) my own KLF's Clones using 4 Ciare HW321 Woofers with Crites 600 Horns 55 mid driver and CT120 Tweeters. It has only been 2 years since I acquired everything😆 I am finally Itching to buy Sheets of MDF, Cabinets will be about 3cu.ft. larger that OEM cabinets I am intrigued what fellow KLF owners have to power your KLF's. Myself, I am looking into a Set of Bob Latino's Dynaco Tube amps or some vintage Sansui eye candy. As of right now, I only have a 1974 Pioneer SX-1010 receiver at 110w x2 @8ohm. I also heard that certain amps favor certain speaker, perhaps you have experimented with different types. Cheers

N-O

Hey, it's youtube spinning right? Time to share the love. 😂 O-H-

Yes thanks for that @Full Range it's weird hearing and seeing them doing a pop tune though I just thought he was a bit... ahh off-the-wall. Appreciated most of his music.

Bowie is always such a nice twist. Thanks for the video. If only more people truly understood him. He was always distant but had a plan. Maybe. lol

I have two pairs of 30's that I fully restored as well as fixed any cabinet issues. If you're rolling amps, tubes etc. you are just pissing in the wind if you have leaking cabinets or crossover issues with the 30's which are common problems with this particular line of Klipsch. Once I got the 30's working properly, they do GREAT with low power, high power, medium power......as long as it's good power. They're fun to listen to with a high powered amp for loud volumes and just as satisfying (if not more) with a low powered tube amp at low volumes for critical listening. I have two systems in the house with 30's in each one. One system is high powered for when I want a live concert experience. The other is low powered with tubes in a fully treated room for critical listening. Both are complimented with horn loaded subs and it's fricken awesome. These speakers I take to the grave. 👍

And this is the live King Crimson version of Heroes

The thing about 30's...Why would someone have 30's and not be someone that plays em loud? If you don't need loud there are many speakers that would be a step up in sound quality for similar or less money. Of course ymmv and imo.....

I think it is worth to give this thread a read. I can admit that a huge bass reflex speaker like the CW4 thanks the current and low impedance of a good solid state amp. You could fine tune the sound by trying some tube pre amps (with a fitting output impedance to feed the power solid state amp). It is for many people confusing to think that a high efficiency of a speaker means you could go in any case for a low watts tube amp but that mostly works only if the bass of a speaker is a (cone damping) horn as well like LaScala etc.

Well I’ve taken the advice of the forum, and I bought a new AVR with pre outs 😊. So active it is!

Mine run from Crown, Carvin, and SAE

Sounds like a cool project would like to see a thread for the build with pictures. My brother had KLF-30's for the last 15 years or so powered them with Carver amplifiers first the A-500x then later a refurbished TFM-45 both sounded great and would rock the house no problem. I've never heard them with tubes but can't imagine they'd sound bad unless you try and push them too hard? A lot of variables when considering a power amp. good luck!

I couldn’t wait for my bluesound node to get here so I ended up hooking my Hegel h590 up as a preamp/streamer/dac to my new wilsenton R8 for now. All I can say is wow!!! How is it that a 25 watt per channel tube amp sounds better than a 300w per channel solid state. I’m in aww. the tubes are still breaking in so I’ll will see how the sound changes but so far I’m loving it! any comments or suggestions are welcomed! thanks for looking

This ^^^^ miketn 🙂

I think it is rare to find these speakers in this condition. they were a wedding gift and lived their entire life in a physicians living room very very gently used… never very loud. rare is relative but a good question

There is much mis-information on this thread already. I suggest that if the OP has a medical problem, they should seek medical advice and not the silly replies on an internet forum. If you have insurance, ask your primary for a referral to a specialist.

I enjoyed reading about your listening impressions and satisfaction with the sound of your Heritage Jubilee.

[SOLD] For sale is a pair of 1988 Oiled Walnut Chorus I speakers. As can be seen from the pictures, the speakers are in excellent condition all around and the walnut veneer is beautifully matched. There are a couple of dings on the risers. No watermarks or stains on the tops. Grills are clean and have the logos. The tags are faded, but very under close inspection you can make out the first digits of the serial numbers indicating they were manufactured in 1988. The speakers sound wonderful -- they have a huge soundstage and the bass is great. Price is $1200, cash. Pick-up/drop-off only -- they're large and would be expensive/difficult to ship. They're in Hanover, NH (best equipment to demo them is here) but can be relocated to metro Boston if needed. Please let me know if you have questions. Thanks, Jim

SOLD! Had a lot of interest and multiple bidders.

While I have nothing to add, I will say thanks to the OP for posting his self-discovered solution.

That almost looks like goldmines, James bond and pushy galore...

Dave , in appearance looks like someone either sanded the top , or used a steel wool 0000 to clean it up , or it's a totally different veneer on both speakers , the right speaker looks like walnut

Lost Rusty Young to a heart attack last year. He's the one who piqued my interest in the Dobro. They were such a great band.

miniDSP 2X4 HD https://www.minidsp.com/products/minidsp-in-a-box/minidsp-2x4-hd

My second colored DM LP:

Interesting to find out. What is available?

Fuses! It’s alive! Thanks everyone!

If a wall of sound is all you are after, using multiple speakers in that manner will achieve your goal. But if you want accurate reproduction (as much as that is possible at all) of the musical event, one pair of high(er) quality speakers is the way to go. As @wuzzzerpoints out, comb filtering is what you will get. And as you found out in your research, it's not overly desirable. So it does come down to believable soundstaging and holographic imaging vs a bombastic wall of sound. Pick your poison.

Hey Brandon Welcome... Tell us a little more about what you are up to and I am sure we can help. What speakers and what are you hooking to?

I believe that alone (without room gain) they're good to 25Hz. Not jaw dropping but very clean sounding. With the room, it's lower. Personally, If you need that "shape" I'd build F-20's. 3 Hz lower, the same efficiency, clean sound and the plans are free. They're infinitely easier to build as well.

If you're good with tools & woodworking plan on at least a week probably more. Not a beginners project but doable if you take your time, its worth it.

The cabinet is tuned to 22Hz if i recall correctly. Check on Bills websight if you need more information on the subject. Link

Doing more experimentation with these subs i connected two 16" Table Tuba's in series to my 240 watt dayton amp and what a difference it made to the bottom end. No more having to constantly adjust the volume & frequency settings to get it to sound right (maybe im just overly picky). 2 smaller subs are easier to place too.

I recall the same comment, but didn't comment at the time because I agreed with the context. The Table Tuba is a good for music while the THT is also good for movies (in addition to music). The Table Tuba just doesn't go low enough for movies. Admittedly, the THT drops like a rock below 20 Hz and some people are not satisfied with that as well. The lil wrecker is interesting as well, and the Cinema F20. Danley DTS-10 is good for music, movies, and to simulate earthquakes in your house or vibrate things at the other end of the house. LOL. Otherwise you can go to the AVS forum and build the HousWrecker or the LilWrecker, both of which were inspired by the DTS-10. The nice thing about the F-20 and the Tubas is that they are NOT tapped horns. They won't go as low, but go higher, like 100 Hz. instead of 60 or 70 Hz. for the tapped horns. That being said, the 24" THT is terrific. I own one of those too. It's great for music and movies.......VERY efficient, but won'd go as low as spuds, which are less efficient. Trade offs are alive and well. Efficient is right, it does not take much power to get the house rockin. When i recommend a 50-100 watt amp i get strange looks. Most will never use 25 watts unless destroying the house is the plan.

I recall the same comment, but didn't comment at the time because I agreed with the context. The Table Tuba is a good for music while the THT is also good for movies (in addition to music). The Table Tuba just doesn't go low enough for movies. Admittedly, the THT drops like a rock below 20 Hz and some people are not satisfied with that as well. The lil wrecker is interesting as well, and the Cinema F20. Danley DTS-10 is good for music, movies, and to simulate earthquakes in your house or vibrate things at the other end of the house. LOL. Otherwise you can go to the AVS forum and build the HousWrecker or the LilWrecker, both of which were inspired by the DTS-10. The nice thing about the F-20 and the Tubas is that they are NOT tapped horns. They won't go as low, but go higher, like 100 Hz. instead of 60 or 70 Hz. for the tapped horns. That being said, the 24" THT is terrific. I own one of those too. It's great for music and movies.......VERY efficient, but won'd go as low as spuds, which are less efficient. Trade offs are alive and well.

The more time i listen to the Table Tuba the more i miss the THT. I find myself always having to fiddle with the subwoofer gain and frequency with the Table Tuba where i never had to adjust anything with the THT after i had things adjusted. I love the Table Tuba and it is better sounding than 99+% of the subwoofers on the market today but plans are to build myself another THT and be done with it. Its the right tool for the job in my perspective and I'm very picky when it comes to sound. ***Just wanted to update this** A pair of slim Table Tuba's or a wider version of the TT fixes the issue of having to fiddle with the gain + placement is key when adding any new subwoofer to your system.

I had my buddy build my THT LP at 18" x18" x 72". I used a 12" speaker and powering it with a Bash 300 plate amp. It can easily hang right in there with my Klipschorns and I have the gain on the amp less than half and the AVR setting typically in the -8 to 0 range. I stapled carpet to it and since its laid down against the wall I use it as extra seating during UFC parties or football get togethers.

In the plan instructions, Bill makes the following statement: "Response is flatter and sensitivity higher as the cab is made wider, so make it as wide as is practical for the room you’re using it in." In the plans, here are the narrowest dimensions recommended: TT 12" with 8" driver TTL 12" with 8" driver THT 15" with 12" driver THTLP 15" with 12" driver You should post the question on the BFM forums if you are considering narrower sizes.

One other place I see the 12" mentioned is in the full sized THT in the SPL charts thread for the THT. There isn't a charts for a 12 in the THTLP. Here is the post: Tuba HT, 24 inches wide, loaded with the Tempest 15 (blue) and Lab 12 (red) drivers, half-space. Lab 12 is a simulated response, Tempest is measured.

You will lose roughly 2 dB. Unless you plan on trying out for a SPL contest the slimmer model is more than enough. Going from 15" to 12"? Not compared to a JL F113, right? Direct radiator bass such as from a JL F113 is different than horn-loaded bass. If you like KHorn bass, you'll like THT bass.

I recall the same comment, but didn't comment at the time because I agreed with the context. The Table Tuba is a good for music while the THT is also good for movies (in addition to music). The Table Tuba just doesn't go low enough for movies. Admittedly, the THT drops like a rock below 20 Hz and some people are not satisfied with that as well. The lil wrecker is interesting as well, and the Cinema F20.

Both sound very similar. The THT just hits lower notes and is more efficient.

I found this question interesting, shouldn't each of those subwoofers only play the "bass notes" as recorded? What I mean to say is, if one is "allowing" the bass notes to last then isn't it introducing something that wasn't recorded? Hey I will be the first to admit that my knowledge of subwoofers is woefully lacking. Just interested.

Here is a bit of a DIY project for those of you who have a pair of my Type AA/A convertible crossovers and a pair of my CT125 tweeters. This would not apply exactly the same way to original or rebuilt original type AA crossovers. The rest of you may avert your eyes. This mod will lower the crossover frequency from squawker to tweeter and roll off the squawker gently above 4500 hz. OK. First picture is the Mod Kit. Bob Crites