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Billy, Billy, Billy - “ profits over people “. Where did you dream up such nonsense 😂🤔

his brand new album ....

Well meaning (?) electrical concerns lobbying hard with their profits to control solar, tolerating only to launch a campaign of command and control. PSCs around the country accommodating their desires. Profits over people. Another example cable versus satellite. It was not an easy fight. There will be changes, inspired primarily by the end user's saying, we are not going to take it. HOAs with their strict dictates will have to conceed, just like cable. Usually requires anti- monopoly policies. All of these entities desiring control, will inevitably bend or break.

Strange, but catchy

Either/or All or nothing Pigeon holed minds tend towards two dimensional thinking. Throw in the ubiquitous "they" and continue down the path of illogic. Intelligent communities are already using a variety of sources in combination to great effect.

Yesterday new stuff arrived. Still needs to be washed. Vinyl looks good so far, some covers are rough, oh well it´s used, some of it 40+ years, so no complaining.

Soon... It was an ADAT-XT20, which would record 20bit instead of 16 and had a driect drive instead of belt as the the original had. Can't remember exactly when I got it and the Tascam DA-30MkII DAT recorder. I loved what was to me a huge jump in audio quality. What I used it for is probably on three or four tapes, so not very cost effective. Low priced daw software showed up and I was mostly using it for myself. A regular full time job and family kept me from really making use of the gear. That and my own laziness. Can't remember exactly when I got the ADAT, but probably early 2000s. My older son or daughter would know the time frame. Up next... a transfer of a 4 four track rtr to the computer, to mix and archive. Today I got the newest ver. of Harrison's Mixbus 32C installed on one of my laptops. It should be able to handle four tracks of simple acoustic guitar and dobro.

We have a number of people using them up here, how it works I have no idea as we have very short daylight hours in the winter. It's mostly people living on houseboats and some cabins. Usually combined with a generator and a small wind genny.

was time to spin ...Mike Oldfield´s " AMAROK "

https://www.ebay.com/itm/GRANDMASTER-FLASH-FURIOUS-FIVE-the-message-SUGAR-HILL-12-LP-33-RPM/314234015948?chn=ps&norover=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=314234015948&targetid=1263433204694&device=t&googleloc=9005290&campaignid=14859008593&mkgroupid=130497710760&rlsatarget=pla-1263433204694&abcId=9300678&merchantid=6318344&gclid=Cj0KCQiAveebBhD_ARIsAFaAvrGyudMZjj5M7FiDbl62oRzVGXXYy7s_Istqm7OFSIX1iHeTrICzgu4aAn1kEALw_wcB&pageci=e72fba23-a770-430d-88d9-d283ec1667a6&redirect=mobile

Bruce Springsteen´s brand new album , published 9 days ago

@Dave MacKay -- the location of that barrier strip has been all over. On my 75 Heresy 1, it's towards the top as described above, but off to the right with the label in the middle. I just picked up a pair of 84 Heresy 1.5 and the barrier strip is located where your binding post cup is. I can get a pic later tonight.

Cabinets come up on eBay occasionally.

The shocker for many people who purchased Solar with subsidies, is when the Grid goes down, their Solar shuts down. The agreement for selling to the Utility your surplus electricity, requires that your system shuts down when the grid is down. So it's not a substitute nor a back-up. I suspect that this is why the fellow in OK, that I mentioned, did his own build to power his AC and took no subsidies nor sold to the grid. I think he used a few truck batteries with his inverter to smooth things out. I have seen similar set ups using water powered generation, some with recycled NZ washing machines rewired, that power the house with some batteries. No reason you couldn't heat or freeze a block of water or cement to maintain temp at night. Don't thermal houses have thick cement floors that are heated by direct sunlight in daytime so they stay warm at night. Huge S windows, other directions have walls covered with dirt and sod for thermal coupling to the earth. Totally passive. I think I would still want a good wood-coal stove for the really cold and dangerous times of year. And a NG or diesel back up generator. you can't be too cautious when it comes to freezing to death.

@Marvel I was thinking 1999 or maybe spring of 2000.

Here's my Dragon video. The 1st 6min or so are kinda dull until I decided to go play with our friend in the vette. He was gonna let me by, but it's more fun chasing.

Concerning bananas; even if You go back to the original terminals, you can still use banana-plugs using adapters like these:

Welcome back George! Are You better now? It´s been a bit quiet here...

Tail of the Dragon ; in the wet

I have Khorns and 3 LaScalas. That's pretty close to matching. It's nice, but not one of the "couldn't live without" factors. I ran Heresy for years as my rears and there isn't much difference.

When a friend or relative comes over, I sometimes offer to demonstrate my hi-fi for them. So, what to play? It has to be very well recorded, and we all know that limits our choices. Or, I may be home alone, and want to listen and enjoy something solo. Never disappoints...Gordon Goodwin's Big Phat Band...totally satisfies my ever-lovin' hi-fi jones! Very well recorded and super tight!

You cannot get rid of petroleum. Without Petrol you cannot make Klipsch Speakers. Then what cha' gonna do?

I've seen them on sale on Amazon , but I would not trust the current for sale product yet , since the long term durability tests are ongoing

I am not fooling myself that I am saving the planet, I am just saving few hundred dollars per month, while getting used to what's coming in the future. My goal is, to be off the grid totally in few years. If enough people aim for the same goal, that would be a planet saving plan.

I watched a vid of a guy in OK if I recall correctly. He did his own solar build in the small fenced back yard and had it planned and wired to either 2-3 window AC units no connection to the grid or the rest of the house. His goal was keeping the house at 72-75 on 100 degree days which he achieved. Apparently this was most of his electric bill Mine flips to NG in winter as electric use drops way down. Ice Cold IL No reason you couldn't switch the cells to running some electric radiators in the winter to supplement the central heat during the daytime.

to be followed by Eloy´s " silent cries and mighty echoes "

Solar is gonna take off in a few years . - Perovskite Solar Cells will be much lighter , versus silicon panels - Perovskite Solar Cells have a potential of 45% efficiency versus 20 % for silicon cells ,

If I’m demoing for selling, I like to use singular or minimal number of instruments and voices. Sean Connery’s voice, taps on a bugle, Kodo drums, Norah Jones … not something with complexity so the listener can concentrate on certain frequencies and sounds. Then again some people want to hear massive rock n roll!

@Schu… I’ve done dip switches, punch cards and punch tape. Wrapped my own memory. Lost more than I wrapped!

I'm just drinking a hot chai tea. It's been some time since I reported what I'm doing ...so far I'm first quite healthy again! Of course it´s season to build audio cables , but not business as usual. My new 16 x awg 18 Loudspeaker cable developement is well asked by my hifi friends. I sent some prototypes arround and getting stunning reply and new orders. We have a very mild autumn, partly around 70 Fb at day, very sunny, the forests dipped in bright colors. Now it is much colder max 23F during the day .At 4 : 15 pm is already breaking dawn , at night we already have the first strong ground frost. I was on the road a lot, mainly in the Netherlands on the coast in the last couple of days. My daughter is currently in Berlin . All´s fine so far .

2 new SUV EV 's for a little over 1 month , very satisfied

Cover needs a bit of fixing, maybe have to wssh it one more time...

I did, and i can have my all system, installed, up and running for under 80 k. My average monthly electrical bill will drop by one thousand usd. The system will pay for itself in about 6 years. Keep in mind it is a 50-kw system. As for EV, I got an entry level BOLT EUV Premium few months ago, dipping my toes into the EV ecosystem, and so far, my passive savings, going from gas to electric, is about 350-400 dollars a month (monthly driving 2500 miles/month: 13.5 cents/KW price v/s 3.49 dollars/gallon). I plan to buy a bigger more luxurious EV car early next year.

I couldn’t wait for my bluesound node to get here so I ended up hooking my Hegel h590 up as a preamp/streamer/dac to my new wilsenton R8 for now. All I can say is wow!!! How is it that a 25 watt per channel tube amp sounds better than a 300w per channel solid state. I’m in aww. the tubes are still breaking in so I’ll will see how the sound changes but so far I’m loving it! any comments or suggestions are welcomed! thanks for looking

If you have the room and the resources and zoning allowances - why not?

I was planning on detailing the time and work I put into this amplifier at some date. The case is solid 7/8" cherry wood with dovetails joints I personally cut myself. Aluminum is 1/8" plate. The design is a proven one close to if not over 20 years old with hundreds made and tested. In other words a solid design that I designed to be conservatively biased and operated and not hot rodded to produce better numbers that shorten the life of the tubes. A tube is somewhat like an old type light bulb with a wattage rating that has nothing to do with the output to the speakers. The JJ KT-84's are rated at 42 watts and I am running the tubes at less than 30 watts which is below the 80% l like to run all my builds at meaning one should expect a long tube life. One of my personal EL-34 amplifiers, which was my build before this one, is one I played around with the many different tubes in the EL-34 family which includes but not limited to the 6L6's, EL-34's, KT-77's and KT-88 with some others I do not have in stock that can be used. After doing many hours of listening and biasing the tubes I have there is no doubt in my mind the KT-88's are the best sounding of the family. Big and expensive but worth the cost in my limited experience. I actually started this build with the intention of using some EL-34's and actually bought a new set of JJ EL-34's for this build but after listening to the differences between the KT-88's and EL-34's I decided to bias this amplifier for the KT-88's. I have not done an A/B comparison between this build and the Sweetie. The Sweetie is one of my favorite sounding amplifiers and it has a tone I love. The Sweetie is limited in it's power more in line of the Decware Zen which it should be compared to. A SE KT-88 makes much more power, this one depending on the set of tubes is capable of 7 or more watts. This is a big amplifier. Right now with the tubes I have in it the amplifier is putting out an average of 6 watts per channel. One channel slightly over and one slightly less than 6 watts. This is typical power one can expect from a properly designed SET amplifier in the family of the EL-34 tubes. And for that matter a SET 300B amplifier. The KT-88 is a big tube that handles higher voltages and more current than a 300B. In my opinion the sound can be compared to a SET 300B without the hassle of dealing with a directly heated cathode. In other words much easier to build a quite amplifier. I ran a distortion analysis on this amplifier and the sound floor is 70db down from the main signal. In other works quite with your ear against my 103db LaScala's. Comparing the KT-88 tube to an EL-34, the ones I own, the bass is way better with a more pleasant vocal sound as well. This amplifier is built with slightly over 3lb OPT's instead of the 1 or 2 lbs ones you usually see being used that are offered for sale in most amplifiers of this type. With larger OPT's the sound becomes cleaner and clearer to my old ears with still a lovely SET sound. The output tubes are biased at around 70ma of current equaling 140ma for a pair with a few more ma's from the rest of the circuits and I am using a Hammond PS rated for 201ma's so one can expect a long life from this amplifier. I did a lot of testing inside this amplifier to determine if the higher wattage parts are operating within their rating. Also did some comparison on the input tubes. I knew there is normally a 20% tolerance in tube manufacturing but did not realize this also is true with a dual triode input tube. In one tube there can be a difference of 20% or more in the voltage and current between the two sections. I had to go through 4 12AT-7's before finding one that was closely matched inside the tube. Yesterday I received two Psvane 12AT-7's from tubesandmore and one of them had a difference in plate voltage between the pair of triodes of 30v's. The other was matched much better with just a slight difference between the two. I am sure most never realize the imbalance in the dual triode preamp tube they now have in their amplifier. Chances are one will never notice the difference in volume between the two. Yes one channel will always be stronger than the other if you have a 20% imbalance between the channels. That and one channel is going to put out more power at clipping than the other. One will never know when changing dual triode input tubes unless one checks the two triodes on the bench. This is just one step I took when building this amplifier. Right now it has JJ KT-88's which sound really good. They are the less expensive KT-88's being offered now that are in stock. After a few hours listening with the Psvane 12AT-7 tube last night for a few hours I like the vocals this tube produces and I do not think I would change it. It is being very conservatively biased with balanced triodes so I would not consider changing it.

Haha; probably about 60dB's for TV ... close to 100dB's when I turn on my KPT-904's

In 1980 I was a teenager working at Camera Mart in Little Rock AR, sister store to Custom Audio, a Klipsch dealer. I acquired a set of Heresy’s from the audio store (an interesting story details of which I’ll relate later) which I’ve had ever since. If my memory is correct these were $800 speakers back then, is that accurate? Sometime in the mid 80s my apartment flooded and ruined the veneer on both, which I removed and the speakers were then simply painted black. I just finished a new house build and got them out of storage and want to refinish them like they were originally. Who is a good source for veneer that would be a good match? They are 104U012 and 013. Thanks in advance!

So the WL stands for Walnut Lacquer. I’m not a veneer expert but hopefully someone who is will find this thread and have some good suggestions. It’s awesome that you kept them all these years, especially after the apartment flood! I have 5 Heresys that range in age from 1980 to 1984 that I’m using in my home theater.

And two more pictures. I have some more testing and listening to do but for the most part I am finished with it. I do have a bottom plate to cover the electronics from curious fingers made of plywood I am going to install when I am satisfied with what I have done. Could possible be in the garage section at a later date if there is any interest.

First of all, don’t listen to Spinner Head. Secondly, don’t confuse more power with more quality. Some of the best amps I have owned have been 25 watts or less.

For how long? That's 23.5A of current per channel, or 47A total. It would require a 950VA mains transformer. That equates (with no losses BTW) to 18.33 amps of current from the mains. For RMS power of 1100 watts per channel the amp would require a 20A mains branch as it would trip a 15 branch circuit. My gut feeling with the amp is it will withstand 2 ohm loads for very short duration's, transient peak power compared to a true RMS power rating if you will. Small token from someone being lucky enough to work on, measure, and listen to so many different amplifiers is that the higher the output power the worse the amplifier performs in the critical 1 watt area, it's just how they work and there is no way around it. Almost always in the form of high order harmonic distortion that just sounds bad and has been proven in listening tests many times. A good sounding amplifier will have the distortion present in this power area all low order harmonics, preferably 2H only. I'd love to see an FFT plot of this amplifier at 1 watt, I bet it's ugly. If you don't require this excess of power I suggest getting a very high quality linear amplifier, almost all residential listening with even 5% efficient speakers will require at most 50 watts and many times much less with us horn speaker users where we are approaching near 50% efficiency.

Here's the spreadsheet that I used in case you want to iterate the results for yourself: Synergy Calc-95x60 with flare 40x24in mouth 14in depth.xlsx

The answer is yes but the degree of improvement is unknown, i.e., it may be a subtle improvement to fabricate the wide beveled edges on the woofer side. A "knife edge port" will result in better high frequency SPL response at the crossover frequency band, just like in the MEHs shown above. Chris

Send me a PM on the subject and describe what you need. I've done more detailed build discussions in other PMs to Ron E and Cantilope. I used a hole saw to cut the off-axis ports in the horn and woofer mounting pads (already attached) in one drilling operation per side (two holes cut per port to form elongated ports, two ports per woofer) along the side walls of the K-402 intersecting the top and bottom sides, leaving as much flat area between the ports is as possible to maintain off-axis reflectivity of the horn around the crossover frequency (nominally 500-600 Hz). The main requirements for the off-axis ports are the distance to the beginning lip of the off-axis ports from the lip of the throat (apex) port, and the total port area open to the woofers, with wide countersunk ports on the woofer side of the horn in the woofer mounting pads in order to reduce the apparent thickness of the port that the woofers feel acoustically. There are no real differences in construction approach that I'd recommend using Klipsch K-402s than what I did with the prototype. The woofer mounting pads are pretty easy to cut out having the woofers in hand with the K402(s) to use a pencil to draw the patterns on the woofer mounting pad material I'd recommend as much acoustic batting internally as easily can be fit into the box along the walls in order to control internal box reflections, but there's no advantage to stuffing the boxes full with absorption since the woofers do not gain performance from having a larger box than what I'd used (i.e., a KPT-305 box). If I can ever get a mold that works, the differences will be somewhat greater since no horn modifications will be required, and the horn will be thicker/stiffer. Chris

"My question, will a longer port tube enable the Chorus to dig just a little deeper? " Yes, try 7" to start. Flared ports need to be longer, and are probably not needed here. "I have some Chorus I's from '88. Been saving up for the big B.C. upgrades, stumbled upon this post and thought hmmm cheap experiment. I walked over to our shipping dept., grabbed a 4" mailing tube, measured the OD. Wouldn't you know it... exactly what I needed. I cut two down to 7" in length, wedged them into the ports of one of the speakers and put in a song with some pretty heavy bass. It took all of about 3 seconds to confirm significantly more bass coming from the speaker with the modified ports. Now, is 7" the ideal length and is a mailing tube the ideal material to use? I don't know, but it was affordable and it works! Spread the word."

"! A light bulb gets higher resistance when it heats up, but a tweeter will blow long before a light bulb will heat up! What's needed here is the Polyswitch used in the later Klipsch networks. " Well spoken by someone who has not bothered to measure either device! The 561/211-2 is MUCH faster to respond than a PolySwitch. http://ps.circuitprotection.com/docs/RXE050_rev_G.pdf Uhh, it is rated for 4 seconds to trip at 500% of the hold current. The lightbulb only takes a few 10s of milliseconds to heat up. For a two-way speaker like the Kg4 the lightbulb by itself may be TOO FAST. For the tweeter in a three-way it is just right. For the two-ways I recommend wiring a 2.2 ohm 2W resistor in series with a 561 or 211-2 bulb, and parallel this with a RayChem RXE050 PolySwitch. This goes in the hot lead to the tweeter. The resistor forces most of the signal to go through the PolySwitch. After the PolySwitch trips most of the signal goes through the lightbulb. If you overdrive it hard, the lightbulb will glow very bright. On old Kg models with clear cones, they will light up when driven too hard. On newer models with opaque cones a LED may be mounted where it may be seen behind the grill. No electrical connection is required for the LED, just get the lightbulb somewhere near it (IOW, the LED is just a colored lense). For the audio purist that objects to having what is in effect a semiconductor in series with his tweeter, and views the 1.75dB loss associated with the 1.17 ohm post trip resistance (this is what you actually get in the LaScala type AL networks), you have several choices. Run naked and risk it. Run the lightbulb only. Build the EV STR tweeter protector designed for this tweeter. This substitutes the relay for the PolySwitch (no loss when not tripped), with the lightbulb in parallel with the relay. Effectively out-of-circuit until needed. B&W also uses this circuit in some models, their trade name for it was APOC.