efzauner

well , assuming it is working and you do not want to hack into it the only solution is to get a 12v DC to 120V AC inverter and just plug it in. Of course you will need hefty cabling from the battery. But really this is not a good option. The other option is to open it up and connect wired directly to the woofer and use a normal car sub amp.... However.. your results may not be good. Car subs are much smaller and roll off below because they take advantage of car interior cabin gain. Home subs go much lower. But home subs are not made for the hot cold and humidity and vibration in cars... you may ruin it quickly.. To be perfectly honest, having done lots of car audio, Just look out for used gear and get a proper car sub and amp... Maybe someone wants to swap with your sub. Ed

let us know how it goes!

sorry no I dont.. dont know of similarities with RSW15 Ed

https://www.amazon.ca/Earthquake-Sound-CP8-Subwoofer-Laminate/dp/B005W8NEXA https://www.amazon.com/Theater-Solutions-SUB8SM-Subwoofer-Mahogany/dp/B00CYQ4LOO https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=33830 https://www.outdoorsumo.com/best-slim-line-subwoofers/

you may want to check with Ngen... he seems to run a repair service. Try to get it fixed. Keep it original!

WOW. Cool! I have had H1s for almost 20 years and set them against Forte 1, KLF 20s and Tangen 400 and kept the H1 also! There is something special about them!

Was this a planned move from II to I? May I ask your reasoning?

well start by providing the model number! Are you using it in auto on mode or permanently on?

you have to remove the control panel and the driver that is on the same side. The passive radiator is on the other side. Then you can remove the amp.

I purchased a replacement with an "original philips bulb" on Walmart online for my Sony VLP did the trick, so far so good!

ha! i have the CD version! Not sure if its that old! well. hmm early 80s? yep, that is 40 years old.

@stepher All good points. When I fixed mine, the previous repair already had attempted to make an inductor out of solid wire. I did not know that the original part was made out of litz. Do you know for sure that the switching frequency is 1 MHz? I did not measure it. Could guestimate from the RC of the PWM circuit...

ok thanks just confirming my repair as well. I used solid wire. worked well enough if not perfect. Measured on HP 4800A Vector Impedance meter! What wire gauge did you use? size of coil # of turns etc. Just in case I want to redo mine using litz

Very nice. .what inductor was that? The L302? how did you deduce the inductace value? Schematic? Interesting that yours was melted too. Mine also.. purchased used/defective. Where an fets or diodes blown also?

I understand zobel networks to equalize the woofer impedance.. But the KLF10 does not use one. My basic question is why does the system as is simulate so poorly. The schematic is exactly reproducing the stock crossover and the woofer R and L. E

Thanks! lots to digest ! But I am sort of going to reproduce a KLF C7 but with the KLF10 tweeter and the 2 Alpha8s The C7s do not have a 2.5 way design. The woofers would be almost as close together.

The K1056K woofers I wish to make into bass bins and use them as stands under the Heresys. The RSW15 is in a corner in a somewhat squarish room and really cant put it any where else. It is not in the best place. There is a null in my favorite spot sadly.

thanks for all the feed back I currently use the Heresies with the RSW 15 and Pioneer Elite HT receiver. Sounds great but for the sub in the rear corner. I can tell the bass is coming from there. My plan was to use the bins placed under the Heresys and a separate amp with just a low pass electronic crossover when using the Heresies driven by my Pioneer SA9500 to get just a bit more bass presence. Only the bins would be Low passed, I was not planning to use the electronic crossover to HP the PA section of the SA9500 driving the Heresies. I would be happy to get down to 30 Hz but would prefer a sealed sound like my older large Advents. That is why I suggested adding some mass to the woofers to extend the response without a vented design. How did the 60s ane 70s large woofer acoustic suspension speakers get low end response? With heavier woofers or with higher compliance? I know that a woofer design is different if it is intended for sealed or vented cabinets. And yes, I used that TS sheet to add a driver file to Win ISD. Dumb questions. Is it two Heresys or Heresies? Ed

very cool! i will have to try this instead of LT spice!

hello I am trying to make a center using KLF10 tweeter and crossover but with 2 x Eminence Alpha 8a woofers. As a starting point I am simulating stock KLF10 low pass section with KLF 10 K1056K woofers I would then modify the crossover if needed for the Alpha8as with Re=5.3 and Le=.44 What I get is all wonky, why the big drop and peak? What am I missing here? thanks! (if I replace the R-L of the woofer with just R=8 ohms it is no better, -12db at 1.5Khz.) KLF10.pdf

was one on craigslist... https://westernmass.craigslist.org/ele/d/easthampton-klipsch-kp-250/7083319877.html

Cool! lets keep that in mind! maybe some joint projects.. I would be open to a single Heresy parts to make a center. Dumb question.. where where they sending the RSW Indigo Bash amps for repair in Canada?

Hello and welcome! Where abouts in Canada? Near Montreal where i am? Ed

is this for Atmos height or "Front Height" speakers. Just curious. I am also thinking of adding front eight or center height speakers but I dont have an atmos receiver.

well? These are Heresy 2 but in a bigger vented cabinet.. Same drivers and crossovers! . What many people try to do with their Heresys. Did you get them? I had purchased a pair but never really listened to them much. I got a pair of KLF20s and sold the T400s.. Should have given them a chance... Got a pair of Forte also... sold them all to keep an old restored pair of Heresys.. loved the sound the best of the lot!