efzauner

There are several good brands around: Infinity, Polk, Boston, MB Quart, etc. Stay away from manufacturers that dont make good home speakers such as pioneer, kennwood, sony, Each has entry level, mid, high, and competition range. You will fall off your chair when you see the prices for the high and competiton! The markup is tremendous If you are used to Heresies at home, I would stick to the high end. You probably dont need the competition stuff. Most of the installations have a 6.5 inch woofer/mid in the doors with tweeter placed on the dash or on the sail (the place on the inside of the door from where the mirrors are mounted. Most of the soundstage will come from the front, with the rear providing the fill. I suggest a subwoofer for the bass, and then high pass the front woofers at 80 or 125Hz. If you put too much bass in those small spearkers, the doors will rattle. Keep in mind that the car subwoofers are designed for small enclosures. For good sound quality without the booming, I suggest a sealed box. You can get 10inch woofers that fit in 1/2 cubic foot sealed box (the Boston PRO 10.4 for example). The result is that their 3 db down point is about 50 HZ or so. This sound crappy compared to a home sub, But remember that because of the small interior volume of the car, there is a 12 db per octave bass gain starting somewhere between 50 and 100 Hz I(the smaller the car, the higher the frequency) , there is a way to calculate it, but I cant find the web site where I found it last summer) That is why a car sub that start rolling off at 50Hz still has lots of bass by the time it hits 30Hz. Car speakers have lousy efficency compared to anything in the klipsch line. Only on the order of 88-91 dB for 1W at 1 meter. That is because even the 6 1/2 inch woofers are designed for good bass. This is almost a waste if you use a sub and high pass them anyway. I would like to see a manufacturer that recognizes this and builds a very efficien mid bass unit that will cover the 125 to 700 Hz range with say 95db efficiency so that I can then use a Heresy mid and tweeter! That would be awesome. Something like an Eminence Beta 8 that would fit in the doors! Your Idea of using heresy mid and tweeter up front (if you can find the room) is great, but you cant simply put the heresy woofer in the rear, because there is considerable voice and music content up to the 700Hz that the woofer handles and it would sound bad comming from the rear. You need that frequency range up front comming from the same spot as the mid and tweeter. Noble thought thought! I have a 2002 honda odyssey with Infinity Kappa 62.5I in the front doors and a 8 inch cerwin vega sub in a .35 cubic foot custom build box that fits in a very specific spot in the back. I will be putting the kappas in the rear, and some Boston PRO 6.5 inchers in front. I have a Rockford Fostgate 120Watt RMS amp for the sub, and just running the mains off my Pioneer head unit. When I drive alone and play it loud I go deaf. I have a Pheonix Gold 65w x 4 amp at home that I may install for the mains afte I finish building my HT room! I may need it after my LaScalas reduce the sensitivity of my ear drums permanently!

Dumb question If you both agreed on a price, why did he not simply bid that price? Let the biding determine what fair market value is. That is the entire beauty of an auction! Why would you agree to a sell it to him without him bidding? You are cutting yourself short. Maybe there was someone out there willing to pay you more!

This is partially the consumer's fault: 1: We are a society driven by price: we want the best deal on a product, but ignore the total real cost. We will see a flyer offering a $500 system for $50 bucks cheaper than another store, but then end up paying $200 for overpriced cable. So stores end up making very little profit on cheap electronics, and therefore have to make it up on accessories. 2: Lack of education: Do your homework first. You would be surprised how much time people will spend looking thru flyers to save 20 cents on a can of beans, but do no research when spending $1000 electronics. This bugs me when it comes to safety items like car seats. Consumer Reports has free access to car seat reviews, but you would be surprised how few of our friend actally took the time to look it up. They based made decisions based on wich car seat had a nicer juice cup holder...

Only of you have a mouse in there. But please don't be cruel. Your cat needs its eardrums for mousing. Don't crank it up too much! I bet no other speaker owners have these kinds of problems! That makes us truly unique!

Lots of them are for sale on Ebay! just search for klipsch and you will get one or two pages of stuff. You need the K77 tweeter. However there are several versions over the life of the LaScala and in order to do a most faithfull repair you may want to check your serial number and post another message for help in determining exactly what version of the K77 your laScala should have. There is an excellent chance that these are right: http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3029743512&category=3276

There is a difference between audio patch cords and video patch cords. But the difference in bandwidth required for composite (4.2MHz), S-Video (4.2MHz), or Component video (6MHz) is very small. MHz is Mega or Million cycles per second Good quality 75 Ohm cable that is used for Cable TV or Antennas costs 10 to 20 Cents a foot in bulk and is good to transmit signals that are in the 100s of MHz for hundreds of feet. Therefore, a good quality component video cable (just 3 separate coax cables) plus connectors should cost less than $10. I laugh at video cables that sell for hundreds of dollars! I cry for people that actually buy them!

You can probably record the video via the video out/in connection, and your audio analog tracks via audio in/out but you are out of luck for digitaly encoded sound try this link for more info http://hometheater.about.com/library/weekly/aa061702a.htm

simply do a google search for copy dvd movies and you will get your answer. Technically possible: YES Legal? You can be the first test case if you like!

Guys I just spent some time on the mofi web site reading up on what they do, and on the http://www.cdrinfo.com/ web site reading up on cd writing and reading quality. This site tells you everything you need to know about CD quality, the encoding, read/write process, and errors. Here is my take: Mofi pays a great deal of attention to analog equipment quality and the remix process. They also use the SACD DSD (Direct Stream Digital) process both the SACD and the CD version of the tracks. These 2 factors probably make up 90% of the difference in what you hear. There is no mention to the CD mastering (actually burning the master CD) and the mass stamping process. Does that mean that there is nothing special? I would suspect that if they did something special, they would surely mention it! From the cdrinfo web site, I learnt that there are several things that can affect CD quality and therefore the errors: from the way the CD is burned to the mechanical quality of the CD (surface quality, coating quality, balance, stability etc), not to mention the quality of the CD player. As you all know, there is considerable error detection and correction on CDs, and CD players also vary in the way they can read and correct errors, and vary widely in the D/A and analog reproduction quality. However, apart from gross errors like total dropouts that are very audible, it is unclear to me how the correction of small errors affects the quality of the sound. Most errors are corrected perfectly (that is why it is called error CORRECTION), but the larger errors that cannot be corrected are removed by interpolation and substitution. This obviously affects the sound, but I dont think that we can clearly state that a certain type of error makes the sound less airy, or the image more stable, or the bass more solid. In other words, from a scientific point of view we do not understand the relationship, if there is one, between specific kind of errors and the sound we perceive. I will try to study this issue more.

Both work fine. Keep in mind this is DIGITAL DATA. That means there is little or no effect of noise. Somewere in history someone decided that optical cable was cool and started that. Considering the low data rates, there is little technical need to go to an optical link. Coax is perfectly able to do the job. Don't confuse the simple digital optical links used in DVD and Home Theatre with the optical fiber systems used in the Internet. They are very different technology implementations. For a bit more information see: http://www.timefordvd.com/hardware/DVDBuyingGuide.shtml#AudioOuputs

Agreed 10 feet of good cable is fine. You wont hear a difference. Keep the 10 feet: you may want to move things around sometime in the future.

Wire directionality is total nonsense. No ifs or butts. Your observation is correct: the Audio signals are AC anyway, the electrons change directions! There may be cables out there with some sort of built in filter or matching networks or capacitance/inductance compensation network . Those would be directional, But the actual merits of the network may be very questionable. There are also cables that have a dedicated ground wire or shield such as coax. The audio cable industry is full of snake oil. Watch out!

Unbalanced is used in most home gear. It is your typical RCA plug. The signal is on one wire, and the return path is the ground. Thus unbalanced: the ground is always 0 volts and the main conductor is what handles the signal. It works fine for most applications. The interconnect wires are coaxial, with the ground acting as a shield to reduce noise getting to the signal wire. The input impedance of these is usually in the 20,000 to 100,000 ohm range. balanced connection is where you have 2 separate signal conductors PLUS a ground shield. It is used mainly in pro gear because it has the best ability to send a signal over longer distances with minimal noise. You also see this alot on microphones since they produce a very low signal. Also most balanced systems have lower input impedance, on the order of 500 to 2000 ohms or so in order to reduce the noise. This is a brief description without getting too technical. Why do you ask. If you describe the application, perhaps I can give you more help!

There is an annual high end audio show in Montreal in winter. We could make in a get together of the annual area Klipsch fans.

Some lucky buyer grabbed it with buy it now. They know a good deal when they see one! Went fast. Those hoping to catch stuff with ebay email notified searches are SOL!

Hey Formica, Dont you have a job? what are you doing surfing the forum at 10 am on a workday? That single center cornwall was tempting... but I think a custom center would do fine too. The cornwall was like C$700 delivered. So do you still need a K22 Woofer?

Simply listed as large Klipsch! http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3028978461&category=14993 Lots of them lately. What is happening?

Guys GUys GUYS!!! A 2 ohm resistor will generate less noise than the 4 ohm Speaker coil! And I have never come across anyone complaining that speaker voice coils are noisy! Noise in resistors are of concern in preamps, preamp stages of power amps, but NOT IN SPEAKERS! Also, it is carbon type resistors that are the culprit, not wirewound power resistors. For a good link see http://www.aikenamps.com/ResistorNoise.htm As for power robbing, yes a 2 ohm resisor in series with a 4 ohm speaker will dissipate one third of the power as heat. That will result in a 1.8 db power loss. I suspect if you change speakers, the difference in efficiency may be in the same range, making any difference hardly noticeable! As for fuses, they are straight wire that melts when too much current goes thru. Yes they have a tiny bit of resistance (that is how they heat up and melt), but again negligible compared to the resistance in the speaker cable and voice coil! Come on gentlemen, do your homework first! This info is easy to find on the web1 If you don't, you will be talked into buying $5000 power cords that cost $20 to make! I will add "No Bull ****" to my signature! This board needs a bit of it now and then! and PWK will be proud!

4 8 ohm 5 watt resistors in parallel should do the trick. That would be 20 watts total. I series with 4 ohm speaker will handle a total of 60 watts. In other words, the 2 ohm resistor needs to handle a third of the total power from the amp.

7 7/8th inch woofers! What a piece of CRAP. MY BOMBOX has 8 inch woofers! BIGGER IS BETTER. AND I bet there is no MONSTER CABLE inside! probably some 22 gauge solid wire! Where is this world comming to! I wonder what marketing guy decided to call them 7 7/8inch woofers.! Where they worried about false advertising if they called them 8 inch? GIGATUBE must be a derivative of the Klystron! HAH.

I found some bucking magnets at http://www.solen.ca/ go to products, miscelaneous parts, and scroll down to the bottom, you will find a few bucking magnets. Good luck

Adding a resistor in series would certainly increase the impedance of the speakers. But why not just add a 2 Ohm resistor instead? Say 2 4ohm power resistors in parallel or 4 8ohm resistors in parallel. That would bring up the impedance to 6 ohms. It would also reduce the wasted power compared to a 4 ohm resistor. Adding a resistor would also reduce the damping factor, but if you surrounds are small, and you set your receiver for small surrounds, less bass will go to the surrounds and reduced damping will not be a problem at all. Certainly alot cheaper than getting new speakers!

Trey We are all on the same side!. We are hobbyist and part of that is learning and experimenting, NOT thinking we can do a better job than PWK himself. Part of it is to compare with other drivers available and see, for example, how 2 8 inch woofers in a custom center would be like compared to the Heresy's 12 inch woofer. Also please do remember, any product design (Any no mater what it is, car, speaker, can opener) is a set of engineering tradeoffs. Speaker design is one of the most difficult tradeoffs around. You should know this better than anyone! When Mr. Klipsch designed the LaScala, for example, he had some design constraints, size being one of them. Perhpas as hobbyist we have different constraints and maybe, just maybe, that we could modify a LaScala, or any of your speakers, to give different results that suit our tastes and needs. Also, when Mr Klipsch designed the Khorn or Lascala, there were no such thing as T/S parameters and computer modeling of speakers, crossovers etc. But most important, it is because we are having fun doing it! So please give us a bit of slack here! Many of us spend alot of time and effort researching speaker design, horn theory, crossover design etc. We may not have a anechoic chamber, but we do have alot of pride in what we do, and get alot of enjoyment! Plus we are your best customers and sales people! Edmond Zauner Montreal

hello Trey Cannon Formica has a point. Would it not save you and us lots of time if you published a list of woofers and their T/S parms once and for all in a nice text format? Give me the rest of the pages of the nice Jpeg you posted and I will convert them to text and post them for all to see, so we dont have to ask again? We just love to muck about with our Heritage speakers... EdmondZ Montreal

Hello all Dont touch that SAW yet! First, the heresy box is about 52 liters. Removing the mid and tweeter may add a few liters to it. (compare the volume of the mid horn to a one quart milk carton, it may use up the space of a few milk cartons, but not that much more). Increasing the internal volume by 5 liters to 57 liters has a negligible effect on the low end. It is not worth the effort at all! What you could do is add a port to the rear: Remove the existing back, and cut a new one the same size, and cut a hole for a port (you can buy the nice plastic tubes at most electronics/speaker stores. Use a 3inch diameter port that is 3 inches long. This port will be tuned to 44 Hz. There is a 2-3 dB hump in the bass responce that may make it sound a bit boomy. At the same time you can add a nice terminal block with screw or banana connectors. You can experiment with different length tubes. Vary by no more than 1/2 shorter or longer. Best thing is you can go back to original by putting the original back back on. Or simply seal the port to listen to classical music when you do not want the extra bass of the port.. Better yet, get winISD demo for free and try it yourself. the T/S parameters for the Heresy can be found if you search for k22 in the forums. They have been posted by a Klipsch technician as for adding a stifener, and dynamat (expesive stuff and impossible to remove) or plumbers putty (cheap and reversible) are all fine and easy things you can do too. Adding the port will have the bigest effect and is rather easy and cheap. Edmond Montreal PS: I own a pair of heresies with a rear vent. The vent is 2 1/4 inches long. Try different ones!