efzauner

The easiest would be to simply duplicate the Heresy box volume but in a longer narrower design. You could even put 2 separate motor boards. One fixed for the woofer, the other for the mid/tweet, square and rotatable to try horizontal or vertical orientation.

Hello I have Heresys for L and R. and currently KLF C7 as center. What if I get another heresy and make a longer, slimmer cabinet to lay on its side. Do I put the Mid and Tweet Horizontal beside the woofer or vertical? Thanks

at this point.. not many... the impedance curves for the K22 is very different than the alpha 8A I may just use the heresy as is, but a slimmer but longer cabinet... mount the Mid and Tweet horizontal (aka a vertical heresy on its side)

because you would complain even more about socialism if the government tried to regulate oil prices in the US! On a related note, oil refineries buy oil on long term contracts so a short term blip normally would not affect their costs... if your gas price goes up the day after a Saudi bombing.. something called capitalism is going on.. and yes the government could regulate this.. but..... ya know.. socialism..

Have you built anything? I am also looking at a Heresy 1 with 2 8 inch woofers... eminence Alpha 8A.... perhaps

Revisiting this thread I have Heresy LR and KLF 7 Center. I could get a pair of beat up Heresys in order to build a center. I also have a pair of Eminence Alpha 8A 8ohms.. 4 ohms in parallel. Any Idea how those 2 would work? Would have to modify the cross over for them? Thanks

there are 3 industrial LaScalas black.. for sale near montreal for $1500 canadian for the lot... on Kijiji

This has been a long known mod, if not very common. I have a pair like that. but the port is in the rear. I like the sound, but never compared it to non ported.. I should try to cover the port to see. Also several of the Heresy type pro pa speakers such as KP301 have 2 ports also.

There is also the Pioneer CD-635 car audio 3 way crossover.. can be woofer mid tweet or subwoofer midwoofer tweet config . you may still be able to find some I have a couple. While searching, I found this thing... https://www.ebay.com/itm/Rare-Old-School-Pioneer-Premier-Cd-1000-Electronic-Crossover/123831532202?hash=item1cd4ef3aaa:g:sxcAAOSwzFRdJnDe

I just sold my KLF20s to an owner of KLF30s.. I got them 3 years ago.. sadly they just sounded dead compared to my Heresy (1) I posted this previously trying to find out if anything was wrong with them , recapped and all. Anyway. Dunno why people are raving about the KLF20s. Maybe my room acoustics.

Thanks yes I found that too!

Im looking for a single K-106K tweeter for an RS3 or RS3-II.. Yes I know there are a pair on ebay.. looking for a better deal. Thanks

Hello I have a chance to get 2 of the 12 inch woofers from the KSP300. It is a sealed cabinet for the sub woofers. I can estimate the volume from the dimensions, assuming the top 12 inches or so are for the mid and horn only. That would give about 2cuft. But does anyone have a pair or know the internal volume of the box for the big woofers? They are K-1066-K.. Or if I had the TS parameters I could design an optimal sealed box. thanks

Not mine https://www.kijiji.ca/v-stereo-systems-home-theatre/barrie/vintage-klipsch-15-subwoofer-and-amp-ksw-15-ks-15/1433427798?siteLocale=en_CA&enableSearchNavigationFlag=true&uli=true

If you called it a subwoofer maybe its because you want lots of bass just like in your car? You can't just turn up the bass knob and volume. Is this what you tried? LaScalas where not designed to go very low, low end is 3dB or more down at 50 Hz. and cuts off sharp because the horn just wont handle low end. The K33 is not in any way a "high excursion" woofer. Its XMax is maybe 1/4 of an inch, not the inch of travel you may be used to with car or big home subs. If you indeed pushed 100watts or so thru I hope you where wearing ear plugs because that would have been 120dBm SPL or so. Where you playing that loud?

its hot glue at the factory. so a gun would be ok I also like the various Goop products. The industrial type seems the best.

all correct. but 1/4 to 1 db is sort of moot when you consider room effects. Nobody can hear 1/4 db. If you are going to nit pick about 1/4 db then you cannot simply ignore other effects. You cannot just focus on one issue. That is what engineering is. My point was that people will focus on one thing because they think they read something on the internet without any ability or understanding on how other parts affect performance. I am sure the OP would not have been able to do the analysis you have. but hey "what about skin effect?"

rather low sorry. Keep looking!

you may wish to reconsider " For pure square waves the RMS voltage is the peak voltage." If you follow the wiki link I provided they give you some rms values of simple waveforms. For the rest you need to calculate. Or use a true RMS meter that is good for any waveform.

RMS Root Mean Square For the gory details check wiki https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Root_mean_square Can't really do a better job. But basically squaring the voltage before averaging it over time (often a period if it is a simple waveform) , then taking the square root. So all values are positive. The reason you square the voltage before averaging the values is because for power calculations, Power is proportional to the square of voltage, so you have to give more weight to higher voltages. In other words, if voltage is 2 volts for half the period, and 4 volts for the second half, you cannot simply average them to (2+4)/2 = 3. You have to take square root of (4+16)/2 = square root 10 = 3.33 For audio power it means using the RMS voltage of the signal, then using Power= V^2/R where R is usually a pure 8 or 4 ohm resistor. So of you have a 10Volt amplitude signal (that is -10v to 10v) sinewave signal, the RMS value is 10/sqrt(2) or 7.07 volts to calculate the power into 8 ohms.. it is P=7.07^2 / 8 The term "rms power" as used for audio is actually incorrect as you do not take the square root of the average of the square of power. The term implies "calculate power using the RMS voltage" If you had a varying signal as in real music, you could average out the power over time, but it makes no engineering sense to take the RMS average of power over time.

Continuing on this topic with the Belden data If you use a stranded 12 gauge, there is still conductivity between strands so the skin effect would be somewhere between 0 and 33 % more resistance. Certainly not 0. Unless each strand is insulated.... as in Litz wire. rather costly... would be easier and cheaper to just go with a thicker gauge or 2 thinner lines. Yes LItz wire does what it is supposed to do. but I doubt it makes much noticeable sound difference. Sadly even with reasonable companies that typically makes good engineering choices based on real differences, our world of esoteric audio marketing has forced the use of litz wire inductors just because... customers have been conditioned to ask for it. Note that litz wire is mainly for higher frequency uses. not audio. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Litz_wire note that at 60Hz Skin depth is 1/3 of an inch.. at that depth the current density is 1/3 or about 1/3rd of what it is at the surface... That is why in high power delivery they use flat conductors...

Thank you Deang! That is a very simplified reduction of the math.. So a 12 gauge solid conductor at "75%" used at 20Khz would offer 33% more resistance than at DC. A 10 foot run of 12 gauge is 20ft x 1.6 mOhms per foot that is 32 mOhms.... at DC At 20Khz it would be about 43 mili ohms. Not much difference I would say in series with a 8 ohm driver... I rest my case... alxlwson I am not questioning your claim about skin effect in high current power applications. When currents are huge, the voltage drop and power consumed by resistance across feed cabling can be important compared to the power of the motor... a 1% improvement in efficiency in a system is huge if you have to pay the power bills.

why is there a difference, please back up your claim. You basically have your speaker wire in series with the LF inductor and the voice coil. lots and lots of solid core wire there... much longer than in many speaker cable runs. What exactly is your recommendation based on?

how big is your room? Do you really need 7.1? a good 5.1 is better than a cheap 7.1 Room acoustics is a major part of the sound. If you will only use it for 6 months why bother? You can also find many used 5.1 receivers for really cheap. They may not be HDMI but they have the basics and all you need is an digital audio input. you can pick one up for $100 often. As for stereo amps... there are 1000s of models out there... really... everyone will have a preference. and frankly most here really dont wan to get into "what's the best" sort of discussion as they never end and usually no clear conclusion. There is no speaker vs amp cross reference chart... You can also find entire 5 channel speaker setups for sale used at a fraction of new price.. Many poeple moving, down sizing... My entire system is used the Elite was even a store demo.

Um er... lots of words with no science to back it up. Yes to skin effect equations. Yes, many high power power distribution also use flat conductors to reduce skin effects, but please use the *well documented* knowledge of skin effect in addition to basic electrical circuit theory including linear superposition and ohms law to back up your claim in audio applications... Perhaps a graph that shows skin depth vs frequency, equivalent resistance vs frequency, perhaps dB attenuation vs frequency.. You know the normal kinds of analysis used in the audio field. I am not implying that skin effect does not exist but without numbers there is no way to tell if it really matters much. PS last time I looked most speaker crossover inductor wire is solid.