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efzauner

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Everything posted by efzauner

  1. Are you trying to fix it yourself? Maybe we can try together? I got mine for $200canadian and just running the sub with an external amp. I have not tried to fix the amp yet. The last owner tried but failed. The main switch mode power supply inductor was fried and this is how he replaced it. What does yours look like? The schematic does not give an inductor value. Any chance you can test your inductance value?
  2. i just changed 8 caps in my KLFs. still assembling.. wasnt too expensive.. Solen is in my backyard..
  3. So, on older analog gear if it did not have a pre out/amp in connection in back then the only other way would be to use any of the regular or tape playback inputs and set any tone controls and filters to bypass or off. Depending on the design there may or may not be any preamplification before the power amp. Maybe if you told us exactly what models of preamp and receiver you had we could help a bit more! As an example, I have a 40 year old Pioneer integrated amp. I have a CD player connected to it on one of the AUX inputs. I then connected one of the tape outputs to my AVR receiver. Well what do you know, I dont have to even turn the old pioneer on to have the Analog CD signal go to my AVR... Showing that some of the old gear is just passive switching...
  4. That thing is only 18 inches wide. You will probably only screw into one stud. You need something much wider so you can screw into 2 studs. Or just simple 90degree brackets that you can screw into the studs, then a shelf that you can slide left to right as needed to center the center.... something like this.. you dont even need a shelf,, just place the RC64 on it https://www.amazon.com/Pinpoint-Mounts-AM15-Black-Universal-Channel/dp/B002MP5JX4/ref=pd_sim_23_7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=G9S5XJ05JNVDZ8MFDQVE
  5. I have a Pioneer Elite SC71 and it sounds fantastic with my Heresys. hope my KLF20s will be even more fantastic once I fix them up.
  6. you may be out of luck to control your Bluetooth PS3 though.. We have a ps4 and there is PDP universal remote. Managed to get it to control cable box, Pioneer SC71 but never go the volume feed thru to work. Plus the buttons are tiny and not back lit. Next to impossible to use it in a dark HT room.
  7. I am a Pioneer fan so I love my Elite SC-71 Always be careful when you buy on last model sales. Some could be a 2-3 years old. Many new features in new models for similar prices.
  8. remember the wire inside the speaker is pretty cheap stuff... probably 16 gauge and.... oh my gosh... the voice coil is gonna be over 15 feet and probably 22 gauge or smaller!
  9. The Minwood polyshades black satin.. works well... you saw before.. this is after..
  10. i cant see how you would do that neatly unless you drill out with small drill from the back.. then with a larger one from the front to accommodate the screw head... but then they would not loo k the same as the others.. maybe drill the others out the same diameter from the front. Yes, my allen head cap screws are like the parts express.
  11. hey guys and gals What are you using for touching up traditional Klipsh black oak finish? My KLF20s need a bit out touching up. Any experience with the MinWood combo stain/varnish in gloss? Or would semi gloss be better. The main touch up is the front surface 1/4inch strip around thanks
  12. To be honest, my first HiFi system was taking the woofer and tweeter out of an old RCA tube console, and making a box for my bedroom, and making a wood case for the electronics. maybe 12yrs? ... then I got a Heathkit WM5 system with a Lenco and a huge gorgeous Goodmans corner speaker from my neighbour. maybe 14-15? I still have the HK and Lenco.. on the list to restore. I then purchased a new system.. New Advent speakers, Pioneer SA7500II and Dual/Sure TT. Still have those too and being used. I then found the original Philips speaker book.. made a small set for my car with a home built amp and inverting power supply to drive it.. Then got married and stopped listening to music on account of WAF... until I build the HT room last year. Then not much till last few years when I made a couple of HT subs using winISDPro. sweet sound but way to big physically for the room. got rid of those for a RSW15. So you do surely have more speaker design experience and do appreciate your input even if you are 5 years my junior! I am an engineer so I tend to seek formal technical explanations to wrap my mind around. Forgive me for being a bit cool on the touchy feely explanations! RIght now the second KLF20 is on the repair bench. Again both front and back boards almost completely detached. The rear on this had been reglued but without any effort to remove the old glue.. sadly. I did install a center brace between the 2 woofers. Not adding too much extra damping material. I also added some plywood blocks for the screws. I'd add some T-Nuts and allen head machine screws but having trouble finding some with heads under 7mm in diameter... otherwise they wont fit in the plastic cosmetic ring. I may add some additional side bracing.. but as you know.. diminishing returns... I have experience with various "dynamat" material from car audio use but I am weary to put these on wood. They tend to try out over time and loose adhesion unless they are on non-porous surface. And a pita to remove. Picking up new caps at Solen this afternoon... A cloud with a silver lining.. Since I hooked up the older Heresy's I have been able to enjoy music like I used to.. The KLFs where horrendous in comparison, not in terms of frequency response but in terms of imaging, listening fatigue and overall enjoyment... yep all those touchy feely things engineers cringe at!
  13. You had speaker design books? Well young man.. let me tell you how us real old timers made speakers...back in the day when we had to wind our own voice coils and mash paper pulp with our feet to mold cones...
  14. The dynomat will dampen higher frequency vibrations of the panels, but will not stiffen them to lower frequency flex. Only a brace or thicker wood will do that. I question its usefulness as I doubt the issue is high frequencies as the amplitude is to low. Didn't Mr Klipsch do some audio testing of this anyway? Not noticing any audible quality difference with stiffer/thicker wood?
  15. You seem to believe that damping material in speakers is to prevent the wood from vibrating. Perhaps somewhat but I believe the main purpose is to increase the damping factor in the resonant system.. much like your shock absorber in a car. Damping is the correct term in resonant systems. We seem to also use the word dampening as well as it also means to reduce amplitude. I don't believe that is the correct term to use but lets not get lost in semantics. The material in speaker cabinets is to dampen the response of the woofer, not to reduce the vibrations of the cabinet. Wiki has a good write-up on it. Basic engineering and physics. It would apply to vented cabinets also as the box acts as sealed above the resonant frequency.. Here is the complete link. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harmonic_oscillator there are other sources of good information http://www.data-bass.com/data?page=content&id=79
  16. I can understand electrolytics failing and leaking. But the KLFs have metal film in mid and high sections. What is the lifetime of these?
  17. Just a note. BASH was one of the earlier attempts at higher efficiency amplifyers. It is basically a switch mode power supply that follows the input level so that the main class A/B amp does not have much work to do. They may still be around but have been replaced by newer fully digital class D (or other) The Carver Magnetic field amplifyers where basically the same type.
  18. Thanks guys.. ordered some Dayton caps from Solen for local pickup... did a 2.2 and 2.7 to give me 1.2...
  19. LOL OK guys... consider my arms twisted... placed an order for the Dayton Caps at Solen... will pick them up as they are near me!
  20. Really? I thought it was called "damping" from a sinusoidal driven harmonic oscillator. The damping factor reduces the amplitude of the resonance as well as lowering the resonant frequency... This lowering of frequency is similar to making the system less stiff. ergo larger box.. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harmonic_oscillator#/media/File:Mplwp_resonance_zeta_envelope.svg
  21. Lots of recommendations to replace 20 year old crossover caps because of both drifting capacitance and increased ESR. I can measure capacitance easily. ESR is more difficult. It is easy to measure the frequency response of the HP or Mid band pass section. If I measure no loss or a fraction of a dB would this not indicate a low ESR? A 0.1 ohm ESR in series with an 8 ohm driver is only 0.1dB down. Seems trivial to worry about?
  22. I am working on my KLF20s right now. Starting with regluing the front and backs. Are yours still solid? have they been reglued already? Mine had 1 inch foam on the back and sides. I think it was stock. Can you do me a favor? Can you measure the port length from the outside surface of the back to the inside end of the port? Someone modified mine with abs plumbing pipe and I want them back to stock. Can you also let me know what cap values Crites is using for the tweeter circuit? My stock xover is 1.25uF but Sonicaps does not seem to have that value. And for the woofer electrolitic. Stock is 8mF but again Sonicaps does not seem to have that value. I am also installing the Crites titantium tweeter domes. Thanks
  23. My KLF20s have a 1.25 uF cap. Nobody seems to have this value. Crites claims to use Sonicaps in his upgrades kits but Sonicap website doesn't list this value. Paralelling 2 caps to get close to 1.25 seems to be expesinsive. Do you replace with 1.2 or 1.3 uF? There is also a 8mF electrolitic in the woofer circuit.. again hard to find in a "audio grade" cap. Replace with 8.2? thanks guys and gals
  24. Thanks for that. The guy I purchased them from wasn't an idiot. He also had a pair of CF1s and other high end gear. He probably wasnt the original owner. I dont know if he had tried to fix them up. Damn always under estimating how much urethane glue expands!
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