efzauner

I took apart one of them (one at at time please!!!) and both front and back boards were almost completely un glued. I cleaned it up and back is gluing with gorilla urethane right now.. Will hold off on comments until both are fixed. But yeah I can understand why they where crap with the fronts and backs vibrating. On the other hand.. um who can tell me what the original port length was? seems mine where modified with the port tube replace with ABS plumbing pipe glued to the original flare... They are H1s highly modified with a different cross over with both mid and tweet level controls. Thicker panels and a port. The listening level is with the stands you see in the pic puts them about same level as the KLF 20s. I sold my Tangent 400s before I did a serious comparison.

how did you brace them? I may want to do that to mine as I also have to reglue the motor board. If you doubled the walls then you may have reduced the innervolume, making them more peaky and raising the resonance frequency. Adding dampening works to make the volume look larger to the woofer. May work. Dow Corning used to have this lovely white no itch glass unsulating bats.. sadly they dont make in anymore. My KLFs seem to use foam?

I wasn't happy with the overall sound of my KLF20s. Just no pleasure.. fatiguing etc. Was even worried that it was my tinitus. So before trying other things such as acoustical treatments or recapping, I pulled a tweeter to finally install the Crites diaphragms that I had with the KLFs. While doing this the wires fell inside so I had to remove a woofer. I knew the KLF20 motor board was loose and that eventually I would have to fix. but crap I could push it out 1/16 of an inch at the woofer level. So instead of putting it all back together, I removed the KLFs from the system and put on an old refurbished set of Heresy that had been totally recapped and ported and finished with lovely veneer 15 years or more ago. WOW What a difference! Imaging, presence.. live sound, edgy guitar. I love music again despite my tinitus! HT room is 16x17ft Are the Heresys so much different? Is the loose motor board of the KLFs the culprit? They sounded totally lifeless. No listening pleasure at all. This with my Pioneer Elite or my SA9500. I even had a Sherborne/Bryston connected.

Nothing wrong with a function generator. I have an HP3312A does sweeps am, fm sine square triangle.. Its on top of my scope so always there. Very easy to adjust compared to having a laptop on your bench and have to mouse all the menues. Its also bullet proof and if i do damage it I dont have to trash an unrepairable laptop mother board. it is handy to use for electronic troubleshooting too.. So having said that, other comments are correct, Unless you have a calibrated mike and proper room the tests you can do are really only qualitative. Whatever you do, do NOT sweep full frequency at high power levels to your speakers. The power handling of wooffer, mid and tweeter are corelated to the energy content at those frequencies. Lots of energy in the woofer frequencies so those can handle lots of power. but a tweeter only handles like 5% of the sound energy so it can only handle a few watts. So if you set your generator up at say 100Hz and crank it up, then sweep over the mid and tweet you will fry them.

it is water based acrylic paint.. duh.. of course freezing will ruin it. Why is this a surprise? just like any water based latex acrylic home paint.

so what did you end up doing? never mind...

if you have room to run the speaker wire near the power just do it. Use proper plenum cable and not zip cord. (as you probably have experienced zip cord will deteriorate over time) I see no catastrophic issues with this. If the hole is big enough go for it. What could go wrong? What are the chances that somehow the 2 wires side by side cause a hazard? What scenarios? 1: Mouse gnaws thru both wire insulation and they touch and causes the speaker wires to go live with 120V 2: someone puts a nail thru both in some future renovation causing the speaker wires to go live. 3: The breaker in the power circuit fails when too many blow dryers are on the circuit, causing the wire to melt, and burn down the house. Your speakers are the least of your worries. As for drilling a hole in the header beside the 120v line, its not that difficult or dangerous. An auger but is sharp at the tip but not so much along the shaft. I have drilled with the auger bit touching an existing NMD cable without a problem.

How are you going to place both TVs? Have you checked with an unshielded speaker how close it has to be to the Sony Wega to affect it? It may not be a problem.

Most will have some separation of the front baffle. You can feel it by knocking the edge of the baffle/motorboard. It will change sound when you hit a spot that has de glued At best just live with it. You will hear rattles with deep bass... At worst take all the drivers out, and using rubber mallet , maybe with some heat from ablow dryer and knock out the motor board, clean up an re glue with urethane clue (gorilla glue et al) I got mine a year and a half ago , knowing that they need repairs but have not do so yet as you only hear it with deep, usually electronic bass. enjoy them!

why not just an LM7805 ? why do you want to go to 3.3 volts? No point in overcomplicating this setup.

Looks like you may have to wait till Big Sis goes to college so you can get her room!

i have 40 foot cable from HTR to projector and runing 1080p 3d with out any issues. Cheap cable too nothing fancy http://www.canadacomputers.com/product_info.php?cPath=1340_102&item_id=069855

Typical microwave ovens use a normal transformer to step up the voltage for the magnetron. These are the ones that use longer duty cycles to adjust power. You can hear them turn on and off when say in 80,% 0r 50% power mode. Panasonic "inverter" use a switch mode pulse width modulated power supply that pulses power much faster thereby adjusting power more smoothly. Microwave ovens also have "mode stirrers" that effectively disturb standing waves. So what is happening in yours? hmm I agree that corning ware will break after a couple decades so that is not unusual. But why all of a sudden? Perhaps your new microwave is much more powerful than the older one? Maybe its mode stirrer is not as effective as the old one? btw microwave oven transformers make great electric arc science projects! even better than flyback transformers!

check your connections too. Have you tried trouble shooting by switching left and right speakers? Speaker wire? RCA interconnects?

no wonder Shockley invented the transistor!

The sides have a simple curve on them, not a compound curve, that can be flattened, when you then put them together, they take on the curve of the piece beside. Try it with some thin cardboard.

All it would take is for someone to trace the outside on paper... take off 1/16 or so and viola you have the inside shape...

Hey I am in Montreal... happy to help... I used to have lascalas.. send me a message with contact info etc. But whats wrong with his english? Sounds perfectly fine to me!

I think the sarcasm is essentially saying *good luck with that buddy*

Thanks guys!

Not mine What are these? I seached the JBL catalog archive from 50s and 60s and early 70s. nada.. http://www.kijiji.ca/v-haut-parleurs/laval-rive-nord/enceintes-jbl/1262818430

Sherbourne Pre1? http://www.questforsound.com/preamps/preamps_sherbourn_pre1.htm I like mine but will probably sell it as I have some nice vintage iron.

I am in Montreal. Be patient.. something better priced will show up. Someone was selling KLF30s for $500Cnd.. not long after I got my KLF20s. Deals can be had if you wait! I have a pair of Tangent 400s bascially Heresy II in a larger vented cabinet if you want them.

https://antiqueradio.org/art/HeathkitWA-P2PreamplifierManual.pdf the manual has some equalization graphs.... have fun!

There are several 78 Cartridge options available still. This site seems to have the best selection. http://www.esotericsound.com/CartStyli.htm The Sure SS78 stylus will fit in a number of Sure cartridges including the M95ED. But considering the low cost of the entire cartridge I would be weary of always swapping out the stylus. just install the cartridge in a separate headshell. As for speed, many of the older Dual idler drive TT support 78. There is also an external power drive that will increase the 120V line freequency by the right amount to turn a 33 or 45 rpm tt into a 78. .but I suspect its more costly than a used TT. I am about to buy a cheap cartridge for a dual TT. The main thing is that 78s had wider grooves and you need a 2-3micron stylus, much bigger than for LP.s The site explains it alot Also remember that vinyl has equalization. RIAA standardized this for 33 and 45LPs but it was never a standard for 78s. I have some old Heathkit tube preamps with several settings but it may be impossible to actually find out what was used in mastering