Fast1

If I was going to keep the rig, I just might! But storage is a valuable thing in these rigs and this one already sucks! Very surprising for a 43ft 5 slide rig. I had a DRV and I want another one. You could park a car in the lower storage bay!

A friend of mine has some Mackies and they certainly get it on! Pro audio gear! I am just trying to build an indoor system here though. I was simply working outside on the RV so I had the doors open doing my thing. When the system is used, it's primarily for after party events at concerts where audio is well accepted. I don't go jamming out quiet, peaceful campgrounds. The reason for the bookshelves was to get closer to audiophile audio rather than just making noise. I think I achieved that goal as I've been in several that run many hundreds of watts through 6.5" high power ceiling speakers, and though they are loud, there is no depth or sound stage. Honestly just a gamble running ceiling speakers so I went the bookshelf route. The sub going in, I custom built everything to provide accurate sound. I could wire it to low ohms and capable of 2800W RMS, but I want to try to stay at 4 ohms and still be 1000W so I will work to move more content to that sub that can handle it and let the bookshelves relax more. Generally when I tune a system, I try to get good balanced sound from the mains before even introducing a sub, then tune the sub to fill the bottom. Will just have to see how this goes. As for Klipsch, I will have to eat my hat because they have bent over backwards to help me, including expediting my parts so I can meet my timeline. Thank you Klipsch! The reality is those bookshelves shocked the hell out of me! I am usually fighting those Klipsch horns to keep the shrill out,, but these are so smooth that I start pushing that volume up! And that is in a listening area that is hardly an acoustic masterpiece.

Thanks. I do have a lab test on the same receiver I run, which was a $2500 piece, running 7 discrete class D amps. The bench test shows .02% THD at 130W, 2 ch driven at 8 ohms. It even handled a 4ohm load out to about 230W. But I do agree I might need to make a change to something with more ability. However, I cannot ignore the fact that the woofer that died, at least to me, never sounded right. It almost sounded like a loss of cone control, though the other one was just fine. And when I look at the motor winding, The wires are not wrapped uniformly around the pole. There are gaps. Now that could have happened at failure, but putting the two together, I am wondering..... I agree with another poster that I might have asked for too much low frequency content even though I was crossed at 80hz. I am installing a high powered sub within the next week so I will probably patch these speakers up and run at lesser levels for now. Usually if I try to get too much higher frequency content from a sub, the sound is not as seamless as if I allow the mains to run a bit lower and just let the sub work the 80hz and down. If course figuring in Xover roll off. The reason I went with the bookshelves over ceiling speakers is to get better mid frequency and flatter response. I will be honest, they sound VERY good, though the mid range is still lacking compared to what I like to hear. I usually target a snare drum and kick drum sound to determine what my ears want to hear. I find those sounds difficult for small speakers to manage.

I appreciate the snide comments. Welcome back is right! I am not chasing warranty! I was advised to go that route. Hell, I will buy the drivers if needed. What I am more frustrated with is that they died in the first place! I don't have a habit of killing speakers. They were being driven to about 75%. The woofers don't have a vented motor and I am trying to figure out if I will need to go a different route that can handle the environment. My other Klipsch gear has been pushed way harder, but not in the heat. I was trying to inquire with Klipsch about a "superior replacement" if there even is one.

I've owned nothing but Klipsch for 30 years! Never in that time have I blown a speaker! I run a pair of RP-600M in an RV and had them jamming with the doors open while I was working. It was about 100F outside but good gear should handle this! I was feeding them quality watts from a premium class D receiver. I pulled the bad woofer and the odor was obvious. So I pulled the other one and it doesn't look much better! The motor wires are dark! Actually on the one that blew, I swear that speaker never did sound quite right and the windings don't look right to me. In any case, I have a trip coming up SOON and I NEED these! I called Klipsch CS only to get put on ignore for 45min!!!!! Then when the guy answers the phone, he just goes through his canned responses and tells me to find a receipt and file a warranty. I want to know if I can get quality drivers that will not die! I just need to get fixed up! But if anyone with inside info can help me, the PN I show on the woofer is "1061138". If that is the PN? There are other numbers but...... I am looking at some other replacements from a guy but need to confirm things like impedance, power handling, etc. Really, in all ways, I need to know what PNs will work for me! Because if I can't find my email receipt, it sounds like I am hosed with Klipsch.

Oh wow, I just realized I typed Yamaha for the receiver. It is Pioneer Elite with digital ICE amps. Curious why the Rotel amp being knocked off?

Well, the room is not optimal, no doubt. it is about 12x30, with speakers on the 30ft wall, spaced 12ft apart, and toed in. The toe has been adjusted many times. The ceiling is 8ft sheetrock, walls are painted wood panel, floor is a wood subfloor with carpet. I have 1 18" Velodyne sitting next to each speaker. Yes, I have no trouble knocking nails out of the walls. :-) I have acoustic software and a calibrated mic, but I think I found moving that mic even 1ft gives me a complete different response, leaving me up in arms as to how to tune it. I should also mention, and I may rightfully get shit for this, I run an HTPC for all my audio. that is basically a PC on its side with a dedicated HDMI and vid card and audio card with optical out. Technically I am feeding optical digital to the receiver so the DACs in the receiver do the work. I am not fully convinced the Yamaha receiver is "all that". It was a flagship piece but I think the sonics of my previous Denon might have been better. I don't really think my amp is much of the issue. It is not a Bryston, but it ain't Audiovox either. That sucker weighs like 110lbs.

I just opened the speakers since my pics didn't show the values. Looks like I replaced all the caps with film/foil Audiocap Thetas, and wire wound non-inductive resistors and I did the parallel 10/2 ohm mod on the HF. I remember testing them before the mods and it did smooth them out but they are still hard to listen to. I threw in some KennyG tonight just for fun. It just hurts to listen to that!

Dean, I will review my previous mods. I know you have worked with them for years and I likely followed your guidance when I modded them. I will see what values I used. I know I have I still have the original components. I just added everything to the OEM PCB. Have you tested damping the horns or removed the diaphragm mesh?

I would simply LOVE to throw some 7-iiis in my space just to see if their sonics prove my theory. The very first thing I did when I got my 7s was do a high end component swap on the Xovers. I cannot recall if I made any value tweeks or not. It has been years and I guess I will have to review my data. Though the mods seemed to help, there is just no denying the 7s can pierce your ears all while being a bit "muddy" IMO. Now, for non-audio people, I am sure they sound great, of course when you compare to cheap speakers, but I cannot honestly say the 7s every really impressed me. The sounds I hear, and just articulating what I hear, seem to be like resonance building up in the mid to top ranges or possibly lower octave waves causing issues. I know I have asked before if my gear was causing all this or the speakers, and I think most that had Horns or Jubs and have run the 7s indicated the speakers were the primary issue. I am running them on a Rotel 1090, which is 380wpc, so they are being well fed. I have been reading a few tech threads on the speakers but curious if anyone has it really sorted out by now? It seemed to be moving notches around but not really solving the problems or even identifying them. Surely if the iiis are found to be pleasing all the way around, their sonics can be directly compared. Personally, I prefer 10" drivers so the iis seem more for me. However, I have questioned the horn from day one. Then I seem people adding damping materials to it, which seems the exact right direction to go, unless Klipsch had intended for the horn resonance to "color" the sound in some way, but that seems counter productive to what is being desired with high end speakers. Reproduce the sound as recorded, not color it up artificially. I read about removing the mesh on the horns and I may wish to try that. I feel that though the speakers are harsh, they still seem to lack clarity at very high ranges. It can be hard to explain. I have also seen that the iiis now have isolated woofers. I don't know how isolated but I have always wondered if the lower frequencies in a common enclosure would cause disruption in the high range. Many extreme high end speakers completely remove the high range drivers from the woofer enclosure. But I guess folded horns seems to get it done so maybe that is not a thing. All in all, just looking for things to test on the 7s.

Dragging this one up from the past! Is anyone still working on these by chance? I have questions about the D11 diac. There is other data that supports this devices as a DB4, not a DB6. Can someone clarify how this value was validated? I have this exact daughter board.

Thanks guys! I notice a lot of you guys are running actives here. It was sort of a no brainer in car audio "not that long ago" when crossovers were not inegrated in the amps. I guess if I wait for a right deal on another RB1090, I would be all set as long as I get actives with gains for each channel. I did want to ask if there are any actives that are in the form of PC cards so I could possibly integrate them into my HTPC??? I think we are getting real close over here to just creating our own preamp in the HTPC. We already have an HD audio section that gives a very flexible parametric, decoding, etc. If there are no PC card types, do any of these function with software or just potetiometer adjusters? I DO have tuning software and mic/preamp, etc for testing. I presume i can just do swep testing of each component in the speaker to decide where to crossoer point and slope should be. Can you build a compound slope in any of these actives? Ie, 12db for 1 octave, then 48db after that?

With all the big talk of big dollar capacitors and such and eleaborate networks to get things "just right", I have to wonder if there is any down side to active systems? in my more modern mind, it certainly seems that an active Xover system would be a hands down winner in the ability to easily set drop points, slopes, etc. I guess there might not be any actives out there that can run speaker level output to avoid the need for byamping so maybe that is the plus for passives. While on the subject, I did want to ask about byamping. Would you guys stick with the same brand or series of amp for low and high F amping or does it matter? I realize not NEAR as much power is needed on the HF side but quality is most important there... I run a Rotel RB1090 on my 7s right now and it would be sad to have to buy even more amps since that one can more than handle the 7s.

If you just need the cloth, re cloth them. If the pegs are borke off, epoxy them back on or install a stud screw which has start threads at each end. I am sure Klipsch will be a little high on them and they are pretty cheesy IMO. I really like the magnetic stuff from Velodyne and others. Just makes more sense than the pegs..

what is the power cord wire made of or the power wire in the wall, circuit breakers, etc? To each their own but I am not sure I would have wasted the time on it for no sonic benefit.

I have been looking for a decent priced Cherry wood center for over a year. Decided to just buy a black one and either deal with it or veneer it. I am a wood worker but never tried to remove veneer. I would just go over the old but the extra thickness will not look right against the face plate of the speaker. Just curious how someone else has approached this? I suspect they used contact adhesive as I would which is nearly impossible to remove without damaging MDF or particle. I don't see my self trying to plane the veneer off though I do have a handy hand held planer that might do the trick...

Called Klipsch. "buy a new one or send it to a service center...." Right... Sub is not even worth the shipping. I have the amp out and islolated. Simple testing across input AC terminals shows .9Mohms and nothing obvious is leaking to ground. I am puzzled. Sub was like new just started popping fuses. Has to be something in the front power stage. Something that is leaking once energized. Just curious if there is something to be looking at? We are talking a SUPER SIMPLE amp here. Like, I took it aparts and said, "where's the beef?". Nothing visually damaged "of course" but I think only a few few components (transistors, transformers, rectifier) could cause such a hard short. I found several more of these amps floating around, all with the same problem. Makes me think there is an obvious issue here. I also did not find any MOVs in there and not sure why.

I had planned to purchase the top half of the Jub from klipsch along with a EXover network. That would be a 2 way design then. I guess I could also look at using the pro audio 3 way system and tune accordingly but I will have to research more on that. This project is FAR from happening any time soon. Probably over a year down the road for me. No rush really. Already have 7s for mains so it will make for a nice A B comparison some day.

Talk about a loaded question... I have been doing some talking and thinking for a while and would really rather build than buy some Jubs. I realize all the bennies of buying but I more or less see it as a fun project. The wood working skills will not be a problem. I uploaded a pic of what I am doing today for the heck of it. I want to make some personaly changes to the aesthetic portion of the Jub anyway so thought I might play around a bit. I hope I don't start a fist fight asking for drawings on a Klipsch forum but I guess, what better place to ask.... I guess I could also make a 3D model of them to if I could find a set to check out. If this question is out of line, please feel free to delete.

I have now alsocompared to RB-5s. Both Mains are noticably brighter and more clear than the RC-3 which is the one CH of an HT system that must sound clear. Did you mod the Xover in the RC-3? I have not found anyone yet that has done a thing to them. In stock form, I would have to disagree as a "good" speaker.. I am not very impressed.

http://community.klipsch.com/forums/t/135382.aspx Here is my post on the tech section but not getting any interest. Thought it might be best to move over here. The only way I can descrive the sound is compressed and muddy. Just compared to some RB-5s and they are crystal clear in comparison. I am all ears for slight tweaks in xover values to get it dialed in for a friend. I realize they are just NOT an eleite speaker but surely we can improve it somewhere, somehow. It really just sounds like the horn rolls off up top and is too neutral. Dialog has always been difficult to understand coming from it. It is not a fair comparison to my 7s but after coupling with RB-5s, the dull sound is obvious....

I am upgrading anyway but selling the RC-3 to a friend. We both know about the sound or lack there off. Just seems the horn needs a boost 2-3db or so. Just curious if anyone has tried tweaking the Xover values or switched to high performance caps? Would rear venting help at all?

I am very interested to hear from someone that has run separates ona reference KLipsch system. I just read where a guy was literally depressed with the sound of the Pioneer after running a separate system. If that is the case, I would rather spend the extra cash but many people are telling me there just is not that much difference!! Hell, I don't know..

Thanks! I think that faint hissing you heard is compounded in my 2802 coupled to a Rotel. Is there any noise in your Pioneer? Also, which Denon were you comparing to? Makes a difference. I am trying to discover how far back I want to shop. Looks like they only just installed HDMI on them so that is pretty new. I am also trying to determine what separates the "Elites". Is there something special? Looks like the others still have most of the same features...

After poking around a while, I am feeling the pucker factor a bit. Trying to afford switching to separates. ONly looking at used equipment. Need a pre amp that will do 5.1/7.1 with HDMIs and USBs with modern effects like DD ex, DTS HD, etc. Most of the processors around about 1500!! What should I be looking at? Is the preamp all I need? Receivers sure are looking like a bargain right now.... I am also wanting the audyssey or comparable auto calibration system. May not even like what it does but would like to try it.