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Where is the EAR? I havent been on lately....does he still hang around? I hear he's running more than one sub Maybe he could help?

---------------- On 7/5/2005 4:26:28 PM DrWho wrote: Try feeding the Mk without using the splitter (so plug into just the L or R input). If that fixes your problem, then you know the summing-circuit on the MK is somehow shorting the signal with the RW-12 input. Theoretically this setup should work though. You do have both in the "on" mode and not in that auto standby mode right? ---------------- Either way, on or auto, it doesn't matter, and the MK is like 20yrs old so it doesn't even have a switch... If its plugged in, its on.

Kinda narrowed down the problem, any time I plug in a cable to the other side of my splitter, it somehow sucks all the signal to that side of the splitter or something because my RW then gets absolutely NO signal. It won't even auto on with a cable plugged in to the other end of the first splitter. It could be my cable. The first cable and splitter are definately sub cables, but the others may just be regular rca cables...not optimized for low frequencies. I don't know if that makes a difference or not, but something is not quite right.

no, neither have an output...otherwise, that would have been the first thing I tried. I'll try just feeding the L or R input on the M&K

I'm trying to run both an rw12 and the vx4 off of my receiver's lfe output. I'm running the single cable to a splitter. From the splitter, one cable runs straight to the lfe input on the rw12 and the other runs to another splitter to supply the feed to the left and right inputs in the MK. For some reason, they run fine sepparately, but when I hook them up in this fashion, I get nothing. Please help

I've had my rw12 for about almost a year now, and I am enjoying it. I will point out however that it is effortlessly drowned out by my rf15's above -15db (-70 - +8 is the range) on my denon 1804 (90w/ch). So, it lacks extreme decible output, which is fine for most ht uses.) It performs at a level equal to the infinity alpha 12 which has a 550 watt rms amp, whereas the rw12 has 330 watts rms I think. So the efficiency is good. It hits fairly hard and can be heard clearly throughout my house. (it's in the basement and carries to the second floor)There can also be port noise in some extremely low frequency high decible areas. All in all, I am pleased with this sub. I would like to hear the rsw12 or 15 in my home though.

IT'S OFFICIAL! HALF-LIFE 2 TO BE RELEASED NOVEMBER 16th! That's right, vivendi announced the release date today. Vivendi is the publisher which means for them to set a release date, they must have a complete copy in their hands. I don't see any way around this release date. The day will soon come!

---------------- On 8/28/2004 9:29:47 PM Underhanded Penguin wrote: IF it doesn't come out this year I'm going to throw my x800pro in the garbage. ---------------- NOW I'm hoping it doesn't come out this year! Where do you live underhanded penguin? And what day is trash pickup day for you?

So Ear... you're saying that the sub is playing a frequency below "the ear's" audible range (no pun intended). So, does anyone know what the actual limit of human hearing is? On a side note, at what decible level can you permanently damage your hearing ability? How careful should I be when I feel the urge to crank my speakers? I like your sig Ear.

I know I can get all the stats on the main part of the klipsch website, but my question requires a little more detailed answer. First, the stats say it plays to 21hz +-3db but does it have a cutoff such that it does not physically attempt to play below 21hz. or will it still attempt to reproduce the signal but not have enough displacement to reproduce a long enough wavelength. I ask this question because I have a song that produces an extremely low frequency that I cannot hear, and the woofer appears to simply "flutter" but make no noise. Is this because the frequency is below the human ear's audible range or because the woofer cannot displace enough air, making this a sub 21hz frequency? There is definately a lot of air movement out the port.

Just a quick question... Far Cry takes about 2 to 3 mins. from when I put the cd in the drive to actually start playing. Is this normal. (I thought my 52x reader and athalon 64 3000+ would go faster) I've heard that some dvd/cd drives are incompatable but my drive isn't on any list I could find. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

One more thing... I have been pleasantly surprised with this card as it will run far cry smoothly maxed out at 800 x 600 resolution so I'm pretty satisfied considering it was only a $60 investment. I just thought it'd be cool to play at 1280 x 1024 smoothly. I'm also looking at just selling it and buying a 6600gt or something along those lines. Maybe I'll go for the 6800 as a christmas present to myself. We'll see...

Yeah, that's kinda what I decided. So even with a normal 9800se, would it be worth the money to get a better cooling system and some ram sinks and o/c it? I should be able to easily get it to the pro speeds since it is a core designed for those speeds. But will the performance increase be worth the $30 (probably) cost of cooling? My guess is yes, but I'd like to hear it from someone else. Also, there's no chance that better cooling will help with the artifact issue with all 8 pipes enabled is there? Thanks and happy gaming.

Has anyone heard about this. You can take any 256bit radeon 9800se and "unlock" the additional 4 pipelines to essentially make it a 9800 pro with 128mb of memory. Sounded pretty good to me despite the risk of getting a card with a bad pipeline. I tried it using the ati omega driver (www.omegadrivers.net) and it looked fine in windows, but when I used atitool to check for artifacts, I got somewhat of a checkerboard effect. Is this because the stock cooling system is not enough to cool the extra 4 pipelines (its not the same cooler as on the other 9800's) or do I have a bad card? The checkerboard is yellow, and the additional flashes are slight variations of the background color. Any input would be great. I'm trying to decide whether to spend the money on another cooling system and some ram sinks or to just leave it stock. It has since been returned to the stock 4 pipelines. I never tried it in a game because I didn't want it to overheat. Thanks.

Hmmm... Doom 3, what is that? I've never heard of it. Just kidding. I'm waiting to get it until I upgrade my machine. How do you guys think it'll run on an AMD 64 3000+ with 512megs of pc 3200 ram and a radeon 9800se 128mb gfx. card? Also, is it available on DVD-ROM or will I have to use six cd's like far cry? Happy gaming!

I'm gonna recomend you take a look a polk-momo subs. A friend of mine has got two sealed 10's run by an 800 watt peak amp. They are amazing. I'm no expert in car audio, these just impressed me A LOT.

Depending on your HT display too, you may want to splurge on a more expensive video card. If you have a good projector or tv with dvi in, many of the cards have dvi out now, and picture quality is astounding.

I wonder what it would cost to ship an sv subwoofer to holland? You might contact these guys and see if they even ship internationaly (maybe they have a european distribution center) They deserve a look along with the RSW12 and 15. www.svsubwoofers.com

I agree with the previous posts. The Rw12 is not a "loose" sub by any stretch of the imagination, but at low frequencies, with lots of air movement, the rw12 makes considerable amounts of port noise. You don't get that with the passive radiator on the rsw10. the rsw is a tighter sub with possibly a little more punch due to the extra amp power.

$60 seems like a decent price. And it looks efficient enough too. Thanks. I'll look into that, and maybe a few others. Would it be alright to look at cheap car subs, or are they so different that it wouldn't work well?

To give some specifics, the klpsch speakers are far more efficient than the polks, so you will be able to drive them much louder than the polks with the same amp. I would buy klipsch, but probably not the synergy line. I would not buy the ksw12 sub, but you could definately get into an R15 reference system that will blow the synergy and polk away if you go to the right store and make friends with the salesman. Buy the whole system from one guy and he will give you discounts. Yeah... sell the BB card, Or maybe buy the receiver from them if you can find a decent one, and buy the speakers elsewhere. I squeazed into the reference... You can too! Get klipsch and don't look back. You will not be disapointed by how clean and tight sounding they are. And your ears will give up long before the speakers do! Good luck!

Then there's my approach. Buy the best components you can (speakers, tv, receiver) with all the money you have, disregarding cables, then with the left over change you have, go down to home depot, and pick up some decent gauge lamp wire. Will cost you 40 bucks tops. In my opinion, It is better to get the best components possible, and put up with some cheap cables for a few months.(In my case, forever because I have no complaints about my cheap wire. No static or distortion, just clean sound, so I will never be buying expensive cables.) Good luck on your decision. But don't worry about speaker wire! Upgrading wire is cheaper than having to upgrade your components. Get the good components first!

I've never actually seen one, but I've heard you can download free software equalizers... again, I've never seen one and I wouldn't know where to get one, but you might look around a bit. Just a thought.

I have an el cheapo 200 watt (probably overrated) amp, and I'm looking for an el cheapo 8 to 10 inch driver to pair with it that would be efficient enough to run well connected to the amp. And I'm telling you I have no idea what its actual output is. This is just a fun project I'm trying. This sub will be complimenting my Sony micro shelf system, so it doesn't have to be anything special, It just needs to extend the range of my system a bit. The funny thing about this amp is it was in a box that said 160 watts, but there was a sticker over the 160 that read 200, so I don't know whether the manufacturer updated the amp and not the box, or if the dealer I bought it from tried to make the amp sound bigger than it was. Also, if you have any tips on how to make an el cheapo box that won't rattle that'd be great! The key word here is CHEAP! Thanks

smilin...I am sitting at my computer weeping for you. You and your family are in my prayers. Just remember that death has no power over us. Jesus Christ died 2000 years ago to pay the price for your sins because the penalty of sin is death. He died so that you would not have to. Thus, whoever beleives, and accepts this gift is not lost but is alive in Christ. "Now if we died with Christ, we believe that we will also live with him. For we know that since Christ was raised from the dead, he cannot die again; death no longer has mastery over him. The death he died, he died to sin once for all; but the life he lives he lives to God. In the same way, count yourselves dead to sin but alive to God in Christ Jesus." -Romans 6: 8-11 "The righteous perish, and no one ponders it in his heart; devout men are taken away, and no one understands that the righteous are taken away to be spared from evil. Those who walk uprightly enter into peace; they find rest as they lie in death." -Isaiah 57: 1-2 So, there is nothing to be feared in death so long as Christ is your savior, and all you have to do is accept the gift that he has given you out of love for his creation. If you would like more information, or just need to talk, send me a pm and I'll get back to you. I am here for you. Peace of Christ be with you, Jeff