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Deang last won the day on April 7 2014

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About Deang

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  • Birthday 01/22/1959

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  1. Right, but he's also employing steeper slopes. So, if the recommended crossover is 800 with 12dB/octave, you can slide it down to 500 and use 24dB/octave without having to worry about the diaphragm clacking.
  2. I sure do miss Dennis and his 2x4. With a low order filter, you ideally want to be a half octave or more above the Fc for the driver to load properly. The closer to the Fc you are, the steeper the slope needs to be. From an old exchange between Gil and DJK: "Well, I think Fc for the K-400 is around 271.2 Hz. That is based on the Lamed of 2.75 inches. Lamed is the distance in which the area doubles. But not to quibble." "While this is true based on taper alone, PWK pointed out that when attached to a large flat surface (a Klipschorn) the added air mass lowered the cut-off to 240hz. This was his reasoning behind the truncated mouth areas on all the K400, 500, 600, and 700 series horns. This is also why the LB-76 had wings (and even the massive Altec VOTT A4 and A2)." Dean
  3. The best bang for the buck film and foils are the Thetas or Solens. By the time you load up both networks, you're pushing $300.00. I'm getting ready to start cheating a bit: use a 3636, knock off 1dB, and use 10uF. I had Bob check my math with his analyzer and it works. You save some money going with the 10uF, and taking a wee bit off the middle isn't exactly a bad idea. Don't understand the .35mH. Why not .40mH? Bob is comfortable using the Type A with the de-120 and driving it hard. The K-400 will pinch up no matter what -- but if the tweeter holds together, that might actually sound pretty good.
  4. Break-in makes some sense with a metallized capacitor, but not with a film and foil capacitor. Even with a metallized type, any imperfections in the film sould be "healed" within a few days. There is some debate about that, especially with big horn speakers which typically run at a watt or two. At any rate, the "hundreds of hours" business is complete bullshit. Richard Marsh once told me that anything a cap is going to do, it's done doing in 10-20 hours.
  5. Well, these are the crazies. We have a high end store here in Kettering, and I decided to stop in for a visit. The prices were absolutely insane. I could have bought a new set of Klipschorns for the price of a small pair of their monitors. I listened to several things and wasn't impressed with any of it -- lifeless boring shit.
  6. God forbid we add warmth and richness to a horn driven loudpeaker. 🙂 Did you call the vendor (Jeff Glowacki) and ask which capacitor he recommends for your loudspeaker? There's nothing wrong with the Sonicap. It's a good part. I just think if you're only taking one shot at this -- go with warmth and richness, lol.
  7. Eat the meat and spit out the bones. If it sounds like voodoo, it usually is.
  8. "I just changed out everything in my system and it still sounds the same." Klipsch Forum. :-)
  9. I never would have recommended that capacitor -- it doesn't cost enough. Seriously though, I didn't mention the PPT Theta? Those would have run you $80 instead of the $40 you spent.
  10. Since the resistor changes the reflected impedance seen by the amplifier, you have to change the primary input cap from a 2uF to a 21uF.
  11. You remind of someone I miss very much around here.
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