Deang

They can, with the right parts and instructions. Two of the parts he is asking about are not available. He started a thread in technical and then disappeared. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

@JCBOHL Where did you go? Can’t help without more information.

Welcome back. You should probably read the sticky’s at the top of this section. I am possibly interested in high quality replacement PCBs, and I have an idea or two. Things have really died down. 1) The economy 2) Cost of parts and labor (as you found) 3) The fact that the network updating business has been dominated by four of us over the last 20 years. I sometimes wonder how much is actually left to do - coupled with the fact that younger people don’t have much interest in this. Those that do are pursuing HT or vintage on the cheap.

Except when PWK did it, lol.

What is wrong with your Forte II Networks?

An autoformer is a tapped inductor. The Klipsch units provide working inductance in parallel with the driver to produce a 12dB/octave slope for the midrange. Depending on the unit, sometimes a coil is put in parallel with the autoformer to maintain this response. The inductance on the aftermarket units is too high and cannot produce this result. The wire is coated with enamel. The 3619 is no longer available. The x tap is an additional output tap. The x and y taps on the 3636 are additional input taps. The x tap on the 3619 and 3636 do different things. You should probably contact the vendor with specific questions regarding their unit. 3619-ET is similar to 3636 but with additional output taps. This unit is not for sale (as far as I know). I don’t know about Boxler, but I don’t have the energy for this anymore, lol.

That doesn’t look like any PD-5VH I have ever seen. This will strain my memory … I think the B3 network was for the Hepner driver (K-52). On the plastic horn, the part number became K-57-K. The tweeter was the K-77. I believe this is the combo the B3 was designed for. Below is the driver you need. I would go from B3 to B2. https://www.atlasied.com/pd-5vh

I would say more like $200. This isn’t bad. When I had T2A’s to sell, they were going for $88 a pair. https://www.ebay.com/itm/355012752434?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=7dbacnheruu&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=1fiukgbcsqo&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY https://www.ebay.com/itm/256220195121?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=qurAOMZ2SYK&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=1fiukgbcsqo&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY https://www.ebay.com/itm/145286598750?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=GivAp-udRVi&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=1fiukgbcsqo&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

I would just clean them up really good. The networks can be cleaned up too, and unless you smell or see oil (from the capacitors) - it is certainly something you can put off for a while.

I stock T2A’s but I am limiting what I have left for repair/replace and new builds. The sound is different between the T2A and 3636 because the 3636 increases the working inductance in parallel with the driver (much larger core). This changes the slope below Fc. The T2A in parallel with the K-55-V creates a 12dB/octave midrange. I’ve learned that no one cares. Any change in sound constitutes an “upgrade”. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

What is your point? Why would I care about a part that has external resemblance but has non matching brand and part numbers to the originals. I think I’ll stick with the information I get from Roy/Klipsch.

I used to pay Mike to measure things for me, now I have to pay to make him stop.

Take your picture to “Ask the Historian” section and ask Jim Hunter. I tried googling the part number and came up with nothing. Just looks like the small motor run they used for years. They were all Mylar.

Let’s not hijack this nice thread.

Your network probably has two capacitors in parallel to make a 13uF. Read the labels on the capacitors. Take everything apart and start over. Just follow the schematic.

No, not a single polypropylene on that network.

Yeah, actually discussed ad nauseam. I copied some of the discussion to my facebook page. It’s a tired, old topic.

AK/AL series didn’t use MKP (polypropylene) capacitors, they used polyester/Mylar. Mylar specs out only slightly better than PIO.

See my first post. Inductance (11.4mH) on tap being used on the T5A (-6dB) is the same as Tap 3 on the T2A (-6 dB). Also notice that the 1.75mH is in parallel with both the autoformer and the driver. Unless the inductance of the 3654 or 3636 is the same (it’s not) as the T5A or T2A, you will not get the same result. Also, using a 3654 or 3636 now makes the 1.75mH value incorrect. As for the coils, the DCR also has to match. This is why I no longer get involved in someone else’s DIY project. People don’t listen and they always know more than I do. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

I can get very close. You're lucky. The working inductance on the output tap of the T5A autoformer is the same as tap 3 on the T2A. I have T2A's but no T5A's. I do not stock every part Klipsch ever used in these networks - just too expensive. However, the autoformer and capacitors are the most critical. What makes the most sense is to send me the networks and I will retrofit with the correct parts. dgwescott@gmail.com

Why do that when you can use what Klipsch uses. Contact Jim at JEM Performance Audio and buy a kit. If you want me to do the work, I’ll do the pair for $215 parts and labor.

Bruce is right. Those are the GE motor runs that Bob used to use. That doesn’t look like their work though. They use a polypropylene dielectric, which will make the top section brighter than it should be. OEM capacitors are Mylar. They are not very expensive.

We use APC at work on our network switches. You sure the unit just didn’t fail to do its job? Short of a direct lightening strike - should have protected your amp. Which unit do/did you have?

@G87 I’m authorized to build vintage networks for Klipsch - normally Heritage - but I have OEM parts to build these if you’re interested.

I only pointed it out because people often conflate the exit size with VC. https://forums.prosoundweb.com/index.php?topic=97714.0