Deang

Your network probably has two capacitors in parallel to make a 13uF. Read the labels on the capacitors. Take everything apart and start over. Just follow the schematic.

No, not a single polypropylene on that network.

Yeah, actually discussed ad nauseam. I copied some of the discussion to my facebook page. It’s a tired, old topic.

AK/AL series didn’t use MKP (polypropylene) capacitors, they used polyester/Mylar. Mylar specs out only slightly better than PIO.

See my first post. Inductance (11.4mH) on tap being used on the T5A (-6dB) is the same as Tap 3 on the T2A (-6 dB). Also notice that the 1.75mH is in parallel with both the autoformer and the driver. Unless the inductance of the 3654 or 3636 is the same (it’s not) as the T5A or T2A, you will not get the same result. Also, using a 3654 or 3636 now makes the 1.75mH value incorrect. As for the coils, the DCR also has to match. This is why I no longer get involved in someone else’s DIY project. People don’t listen and they always know more than I do. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

I can get very close. You're lucky. The working inductance on the output tap of the T5A autoformer is the same as tap 3 on the T2A. I have T2A's but no T5A's. I do not stock every part Klipsch ever used in these networks - just too expensive. However, the autoformer and capacitors are the most critical. What makes the most sense is to send me the networks and I will retrofit with the correct parts. dgwescott@gmail.com

Why do that when you can use what Klipsch uses. Contact Jim at JEM Performance Audio and buy a kit. If you want me to do the work, I’ll do the pair for $215 parts and labor.

Bruce is right. Those are the GE motor runs that Bob used to use. That doesn’t look like their work though. They use a polypropylene dielectric, which will make the top section brighter than it should be. OEM capacitors are Mylar. They are not very expensive.

We use APC at work on our network switches. You sure the unit just didn’t fail to do its job? Short of a direct lightening strike - should have protected your amp. Which unit do/did you have?

@G87 I’m authorized to build vintage networks for Klipsch - normally Heritage - but I have OEM parts to build these if you’re interested.

I only pointed it out because people often conflate the exit size with VC. https://forums.prosoundweb.com/index.php?topic=97714.0

That’s the diameter of the voice coil.

^This. Welcome to the forum Scott.

A 50 year old motor run that is sweating oil should be replaced. Doesn’t matter how it measures. You don’t have to see it, you can smell it. Also, since when is a 50 year old motor run an example of a “modern day film cap”? There is a good ohm difference between the oil cans in series versus new axial wound dry polyesters. It’s audible. Well, unless you’ve lost a good deal of your high frequency hearing.

I charge $175 a pair to do those. Cost includes parts, labor and return shipping. All of the parts are soldered to the back of the terminal cup. You might want to take a look at what you are getting into before you opt for a kit. Dean dgwescott@gmail.com

You must have more than 5 posts to use the PM feature. My preferred method of contact is email: dgwescott@gmail.com Jim at JEM handles board recap jobs and I do the following PCB’s. Heresy II, Forte, Forte II, Chorus and Chorus II. I do new builds but have limited that work to a handful of Heritage networks. Link below to pinned ad in the Garage Sale section.

https://reconingspeakers.com/products-page/klipsch-rp-160m-woofer-1061138/

https://www.parts-express.com/Gold-Plated-Banana-5-Way-Speaker-Terminal-260-302?quantity=1 CESS Terminal Connector Binding Post Banana Plug Jack Socket Panel/Chassis Mount - Length 1.1" / 29mm (jcx) (4 Pack) https://a.co/d/cU6A2yN

Usually unnecessary. Undesirable? That depends.

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We need an intervention for Mike. I’ll drive.

How?

It’s not always about Klipsch approved parts, but also about Klipsch approved solutions.

@Bacekwill give a D- for that one.

It has been over a month. I don't recall what @mboxlerfound with the T4A. I would be surprised if it's 4dB exactly. There is also a 5mH inductor in parallel with the driver, so I have no idea what the actual attenuation is.