Jump to content

tzehbe

Regulars
  • Posts

    23
  • Joined

  • Last visited

tzehbe's Achievements

Member

Member (2/9)

0

Reputation

  1. Here is a link where some of the things were discussed: http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/thread/577465.aspx There you can also find the K 33 E listed in a table, where about 92 db efficiency is stated. Here you can find different values: http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/thread/221162.aspx As these are newer, i guess they are correct. And don't forget, that it has 4 Ohms only, so equal output voltage of the amp will provide twice the power compared to an 8 Ohm version. From theory the high Qt value (0.39) isn't that good for a horn, but i read statements that for the KHorn it is the best driver you can get (http://www.volvotreter.de/khorn.htm), and it's cheap. I have no information, which 12'' driver would fit, and to be honest, i won't build the small front panel version. The reduced dimension won't help to overcome space problems with couches and things like this, because the horn needs 3-4 feet free space on each side, be it the small or the wide one. Thomas
  2. Hi Domenico, The first version with the wide front was build by me []. I build it as close as i could (regarding the internal dimensions) like the current KHorns. Differences are thicker side panels (about 3/4 instead of 1/2), and the modified dog house door. (and the top riser is a bit too high). The right version looks like the first versions from 1941, when it was patented and was build for a 12'' woofer (with instructions how to use a 15'' inch version). The difference between them is in the back chamber volume, which is larger in the wide front version (even the volume of the 'wings' belongs to the back chamber). This volume is adjusted to compensate the increasing reactance at the horns cutoff frequency to enhance the horns load on the woofer. As PWK changed the construction to the larger volume, i won't go back to the smaller one. And be sure, the larger one works very well []. Regards, Thomas
  3. Hi, maybe my hint sounds stupid, but at least it happend to me [] . Did you check the polarity of the connections between the khorn and the amp and between xover and bass driver? If polarity is diffent, there will be sound cancelation - the more the lower the frequency is. Just my 2 pence Thomas
  4. Big D, You bet! The satisfaction comes up everytime I listen. Even when I'm simply removing the dust from the tops :-) Best Regards, Thomas
  5. Hi! @jt1: I live on the country side near Hannover in nothern Germany. @Micheal: Your welcome! Here are the missed pics .. You se the top of the bas bin. The black thin felt stripes are for sealing the bass horn channel. The two ready to mount tops. I don't use any brackets to fix them. They just sit on the felt stripes and are fixed by their weight ... Sitting in the corner ... Both. The wall is about 19 feet wide. The long walls are 36 feet with a recangular coutout on one side in the back. The following bad quality mobile phone vga pic shows the mentioned indirect light. The same somewhat brighter. The 7 W energy saving bulb sitting at the bottom enlighting the sound ;-) Hope this helps Thomas
  6. Hi! Thank you all for beeing so kind. It is a good feeling to be welcome. @John: I read the crossover threads and I am thinking about doing something new, but probably it will be a three way electronic crossover with three amps, probably class A for the mids an highs. (Of course DIY after plans from Douglas Self or Rod Elliot :-). @Rob, blindman: The "Completed pics" are still missing. There some but I have to find them. As I don't have a pixel camera it would be faster than taking new ones ... @Stan: The components are very simple. I use a Linn Basic Turntable with Akito arm and a cheap Grado pickup. Followed by a receiver FineArts R3 from Grundig (from which one says it has a good phono preamp). And a FineArts CD player from Grundig. That's it. @Maron: You seem to be right, a sale is lost. But here in Germany the prices are somewhat hight. Two years ago Audiotrade in Reutlingen offerd KHorns for 7500,-Euro each. That is simply unreachable for me now. So there woud not have been a trade instead. And used KHorns a very seldom here. And another aspect of DIY is having fun, learning a lot and being a bit proud to make things work. As you may have read I redrawed all the plans. Doing this I got deep respect for PWKs work done at a time as no electronic calculator was laying around on every desk. I hope to give back a bit of publicity with putting informations about him on a german website. And if somebody would ask me I would answer "You can buy every speaker you like as lon as it's labeled Klipsch. Thomas
  7. Last year I build two KHorns. Now most of the pictures are scanned. You can find them at my newly created and still *very* site http://www.thomas-zehbe.de My special thanks are going to BigD, Erik Forker and BerndH for providing indiviual Help! And of course to PWK who designed this great speakers! And many thanks to the forum members for sharing all your knowledge. If it´s of interest here are some information on the building process. First of all I drawed my own contruction plans using a 2-D Cad System on my LINUX box. That had to be done because I used material of different thikness than used in the plans I had. I used 12 and 18 mm Birch Multiplex. The construction is based on the 1941 PWK plans, and on plans from Speakerlab, Erik Forker and ATK. The speakers used are new stock K-33-E, bought from vienna, and used K-55-M with K-401, EV-T35 and AL Crossovers. As you can see I made some minor mods. I left out the side grills and therefore the side walls have hand rubbed finish, too. The woofer door is mounted on a flange so the side wall (I used 18mm Multiplex) has an undisturbed surface. I put light bulbs just in front of the tailboard so I got some very nice indirect light. Looks much like a sound cathedral in the evening ... The building process took about 160 hours (drawing time not included). And the sound? Great! I love it. The KHorns put the musicians in my living room. Comming from a concert and putting a live LP of the musician on the TT and closing the eyes just beamed me back to the concert hall ... With the first tone I started smiling ... Especially when I´m thinking of all the poor guys using direkt radiating speakers. I think there has not benn any progress in speaker building since 1941. And the WAF is very good. My wife loves them, too. Have a nice weekend! Thomas Now I´ll go home to hear some Music.
  8. Hi Darrel, You build very nice looking speakers! Congratulations! I would try to wire the speakers in parallel if the amplifier is able to drive the resulting load (without second breakdown etc.). If you wire them in series the would build a voltage divider. And if the impedance rise at fs happens to be at different fs the driver with the higher impedance at a given frequency gets much more power. I. E. if you have 1 driver at 4 Ohm and 1 at 8 Ohm at a given frequncy the 8 Ohm driver will get 2 times the power of the 4 Om version with reduced damping for the 4 Ohm speaker as it sees the amp impedance through an 8 Ohm resistance. Wired in parallel the 4 Ohm driver will get twice the power of the 8 Ohm driver without any electrical impact between the drivers as the amp is a voltage sources. Perhaps these thoughts could help. Good luck. Thomas
  9. Hi Big D, Perhaps you find some hints in an article of Dr. Bruce Edgar which you can find in the download section of www.volvotreter.de. You?ll find several jpg of the "Showhorn" article where BE describes his speaker selection process during horn design. I believe the target will be finding the speaker parameters matching throat area, and backchamber volume, which are given in your design. Additional hints may be given PWKs article from 1941 "A corner Horn of small dimensions" where he showed formulars for calculation of the backchamber volume for throat reactance anulling at the lower horn coutoff. Btw, my DIY K-Horns are ready since about 10 months, but I didn?t find the time to scan the pics I made yet and post them. Thanks again for your help ... Thomas
  10. Hi, it seems that the offer is illegal. The picture are taken from Erik Forkers hompage www.volvotreter.de without allowance. They are from his DIY project. I mailed Erik and he mailed ebay. He?s still waiting for an answer. Erik has done his own drawings in metric dimensions using autocad. The plan is downloadable from his homepage. The picture from the plan schown on ebay seems to be a copy from the speakerlab plan, what I think is illegal, too. Perhaps you take Eriks plan it back to american style dimensions. Thomas
  11. Hi Bernd, I´ve just ordered in vienna. Mr. Bitzinger is very kind. It makes fun to deal with them. Thank you for your tip! Bye Thomas
  12. @all, Thanks for your hints! @djk I checked availability of th 4 Ohm Versions of Beta 15 and Delta 15 in Germany. I would have to order at least 45 pieces ... So I´ll check the prices from proaud. @bernd Your Info concerning vienna sounds interesting! I´ll call them to check the actual conditions. The dollar is actually cheap from our point of view. To your ps: I´m living in Lower Saxony near Hannover Thomas
  13. Thanks Q-Man, Seems that I got a reconed K-33. Bying Klipsch replacements in Germany is hard. I think our dealers fear to sell. They ask "for what do you need it?" and if you say for DIY you loose, even if it´s only a diaphragma for a K-77 aour asking for ... Do Klipsch sells directly? Or do you have to buy from a retailer? Do they ship to Europe? Today I got a (german) reconing offer around $170.00. Shipping a new one could be cheaper ... Thomas
  14. Thanks Q-Man, Seems that I got a reconed K-33. Bying Klipsch replacements in Germany is hard. I think our dealers fear to sell. They ask "for what do you need it?" and if you say for DIY you loose, even if it´s only a diaphragma for a K-77 your asking for ... Do Klipsch sells directly? Or do you have to buy from a retailer? Do they ship to Europe? Today I got a (german) reconing offer around $170.00. Shipping a new one could be cheaper ... Thomas
  15. Hi Folks, I bought a pair of used K-33-E from german ebay. When I got them I found out that on was signed K-33-P (never heard if this) with 3.5 Ohm voicecoil resistance and the other one signed K-33-E with 6.5 Ohm resistance. Have there ever been K-33 with 8 Ohm nominal Impedance? Or are they badly reconed? Are the recone kits for the K-33? Where can I get them? At what costs? Does anybody now something about the P type? Questions over questions ... Thank you Thomas
×
×
  • Create New...