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frankphess

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Everything posted by frankphess

  1. .47 bias seems awful low, (or is that what you're just starting at when replacing the new tubes?.) KT88's in the VRD's should be between .60 and .80. Craig runs his at .70 as do I.
  2. While you may have tried different amps, you only went half way down the path and turned around. If you would have kept going, stepping up to and ending with some quality 200w SS and/or 60w PP tube amps, I think you may have been a little more impressed with what the RF-7's are capable of.
  3. The biggest difference I experience changinging from SS amp to tube amp with the Peach is detail. When I listen to the all tube system, I don't want to turn it up, "normal" listening levels are completly satisfactory because I can hear the details I crave, whereas with SS it seems I always want to turn it up louder. When I added the tube amplification it was though another veil was lifted from covering the speaker. It seems to bring you closer to the music. Where are you located? Maybe you could borrow a tube amp from a close forum member to try to see if you think the change would be worth the investment.
  4. Anyone that likes the blues should pick up this DVD, it is very entertaining to say the least, specially if you "likes big womens"....Bobby Rush cracks me up and is great blus singer, lyricist and harmonica player. http://www.amazon.com/Live-Ground-Zero-Blues-Club/dp/B000MKXFGO/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&s=dvd&qid=1255109348&sr=8-4
  5. I'm sure there's plenty of folks that use tubes for HT, but personally, when I'm doing home theater, it's usually a concert and in 5.1. And with concerts I prefer very high SPL's that the B&K 200 watt monoblocks are able to provide. The 55 watts will certainly work, but (for me) would run out of steam with Led Zeppelin's/John Bonham's "Moby Dick".
  6. I have mono blocks for each speaker (B&k & VRD), I physically disconnect the speaker cable from the B&K and connect to the VRD when listening to CD's. Switch/selector boxes could be used, however most speaker switch boxes are designed for bare cable.
  7. I've got a B&K system with RF-7's for TV\movies\videos and use a Peach/VRD/RF7 when listening to music. I have paired the Peach with solid state, and while I know the Peach with the B&K sounds terrific, I've found adding a (quality) tube amp and running the Peach in HiZ mode will bring greater detail, and a more realistic presentation of the music. It's difficult for me to describe, but you'll know it when you hear it. And don't be afraid of biasing tubes, it's usually quite simple.
  8. Quoted from Mark regarding Peach I. I assume II to be the same. Here are the plusses and minuses of the two modes: LoZ + drives very low impedance loads such as 5KO + drives cables up to 50 feet long with no ill effect + drives multiple amplifiers such as main and subwoofer + or — has a slightly more extended (really slight) top end. + often perceived as having tighter bass control, (although that's not my personal opinion.) HiZ + Is the shortest possible signal path (passive components), and least active components between input and output + Has the lowest distortion + Has the lowest noise + Has (IMO) the most clarity + Has the least interaction with the PSU — "Ideally" should be driving modest length cables (6ft) and into a load of about 47KO or more. Even better at 100kO + or — has a very slightly less extended top end. If you use LoZ mode, V2&V3 MUST be the same tube type because each tubes is fully specific to one channel. So, if you want the L&R to sound the same, you need the same tube type in each. When using LoZ, you MIGHT find your level controls widely different from each other. Left at 2 o'clock and maybe Right at 10 o'clock. This is NOT A PROBLEM, nor should it be a concern. That's WHY we have those controls. It is making up for all the combined small differences between tubes, resistors, and even speaker placement. Don't fret over this - the controls are doing what they are meant to do. md
  9. Repair shop in Pennsylvania. http://hotglassaudio.com/home.htm
  10. I'm sure Craig may chime in, but with the KT-88's the bias should be set to .70 as has been stated. When using 350B's (not 305B) you should change the rectifiers to 5U4G type, and set the bias from .40-.55. I used to set mine at .52. If you want to try different tubes, I would experiment with different signal tubes. The 6DJ8 in the V1 slot of the Peach should be your best 6DJ8 you own, V2 & V3 not as important, but should match (with the Peach in HIZ mode). In the amplifer, I would experiment with different12AX7/12AU7's. Changing signal tubes will result a more noticeable change for better or worse. Changing power tubes, for me, was difficult to discern much difference unless of course you have a tube popping or making noise. I've found NOS signal tubes from Brent Jesse lowers the noise floor considerably.
  11. I use Target "cube shelves" turned on their sides as supports for VRD's. I drilled holes, then inserted small doll rods on the corners to act similar to carpet spikes. http://www.target.com/Shelves-Ledges-Wall-D%C3%A9cor-Accessories/b/ref=nav_t_spc_6_33/178-8567814-5328640?ie=UTF8&node=12957231 I also use Ikea table tops without the legs for my solid state stands. You can screw in spikes where the legs would have screwed in. http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/40104270
  12. How do you find the noisy tube in one of those? Hope he has lots of spare time.........and spare tubes.
  13. It's difficult to comment on a particular manufacturer rather than a specific amp, as they each make many different "levels" of amplifiers. I use B&K 220 watt monoblocks with RF-7's and think they're wonderful. I've also used a B&K 105w stereo amp which of course, was not as impressive. While I'm sure you don't need the extra watts with the sensitive Belle's, there's something to be said for the extra headroom of large amplifiers. With solid state it usually seems that bigger is better in my experiences. I've also used a MF A5 integrated which was also impressive, loads of power. Good luck with your search.
  14. From Brent Jesee's web site.......http://www.audiotubes.com/audtube.htm 6CG7/6FQ7 Mullard and Mullard made, and Amperex made. New Old Stock in original box. Difficult to find these in the USA. These are from Mullard UK, and also the Mullard/Philips Hearndon works in Australia. Fine European version of this dual triode. The Amperex are Holland made. 25.00 3 6CG7/6FQ7 RCA cleartop, side mounted getterMATCHED PAIRS New Old Stock in whiteboxes and original boxes. Choice of audiophiles. These have low microphonics and a great sound.....getting scarce. A few have labels smeared off but the tubes are NOS and fully guaranteed. These pairs are hand selected and matched to within 5 percent Gm, and are by far the best 6CG7 tube for the cost. $48.00 per pair 20 pairs 6CG7/6FQ7 RCA cleartop, side mounted getter. New Old Stock in whiteboxes and original boxes. Choice of audiophiles. These have low microphonics and a great sound.....getting scarce. A few have labels smeared off but the tubes are NOS and fully guaranteed. $20.00 31 6CG7/6FQ7 Various USA made NOS blackplate. New Old Stock in whiteboxes and original boxes. Choice of audiophiles. The 1950s blackplate versions of this tube are very rare. These have low microphonics and a great sound. Brands include RCA, Sylvania, Tung Sol, and others. MATCHED PAIRS, WHEN AVAILABLE, ARE $70.00 PER PAIR. $27.00 1 6CG7/6FQ7 various USA brands, including military stock. New Old Stock Original Box and whiteboxed. All vintage USA, much better than any current production tubes. Some military stock in original military boxes, $35.00 per matched pair. $11.00 20
  15. Try a 3 prong to 2 prong "cheater plug". Sounds like it could be a ground issue.
  16. Sweet! That's a beauty Frank. All props go to Craig, of course. I just sit back and listen.
  17. A pair of custom 2A3 amps I bid on on EBAY once but didn't win I thought were quite striking as well.
  18. The NOSValves Stereo amp with 350B's and 5U4G rectifiers wrapped in Mahogany.
  19. I live about a mile from the Little Guys (183rd and Halsted, Glenwood, IL.) and visit quite often. I've bought TV's, speakers and cables from them because they are the closest "high-end" dealer. That being said, each time I made a purchase I knew exactly what I wanted and purchased said item. The people that work there are SALES PEOPLE. They're there to sell you something, anything, and they don't care if it mates well with what you have or not. They also have zero intrest in tube equipment, unless it's a 7,000 Mcintosh. To their credit though, they have had some Heritage on display in the past, and I did see all (3) of Klipsch's new headphones on display. The couple of times I've been to Holm Audio (in Woodrige, IL,) I've found them to show a little more intrest in finding the right fit for your needs, and they carry lots of different tube equipment, have trade in programs, and have many used and demo items.
  20. Haven't got the chance, but have wanted to try a pair for sometime. Waiting for a local pair in maple for a decent price to come up. (While I like the color blue, I have to side with your wife on this one.) Driving them them with tubes I assume?
  21. For you's guys wit da Heritage home theater...a 5 channel 300b amplifier on Audiogon... http://www.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?ampstube&1226094290&/AES-(Cary)-SE-5-5-channel-300b
  22. Depends on which "mode" use. Below is an explanation from Mark provided previously. Basically, put your "best" tube in V1. If you use LoZ mode, V2&V3 MUST be the same tube type because each tubes is fully specific to one channel. So, if you want the L&R to sound the same, you need the same tube type in each. "However, as to the cost/benefit ratio or overall expense of various NOS tubes in the Peach, people should remember that in order to tube roll the hi mode (which is what I use most), you only need one 6DJ8/7922/7308 tube. ============ Also or you Peach-o-philes keep in mind that the (3) tubes do NOT have to be the same varietal. V2&V3 must be the same, but can be different than V1. V2&V3 are not the same "kind" of amplifier as V1 which provides all the gain. V2&V3 are compound followers with no gain which are used to greatly reduce the driving impedance. Thus, by using different tubes in V1 than in V2&V3, you can create two very different sounding preamps - more than simply the difference of Mode 1 and Mode 2. Perhaps a Jazz v. Rock sound, or horn speaker v. dynamic speaker, or tube amp v. SS amp, etc.
  23. Go to fark.com, there's a milion of em' http://www.fark.com/ []
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