ajsons

Gil, I'm interested, but I'll wait for the others to respond. Maybe it will be easier if you post it. Armando

This is like W. McDermott's throat drawing in "The Cave" thread.

The frequency response of the driver goes lower in a horn, read Edgar's article. I used ALK's universal A for crossover with no problem . Scaling a crossover to a different impedance is not a problem either, and I believe I mentioned the 6 x 13 slot above.

Fourth.

Third.

sheet 2.

First page of EVM 15L spec sheet.

I'm using Electrovoice EVM-15L's in my SK's (200w, Fs=43hz, Qes=.2 something. I'll post the spec sheets shortly, but the picture attached shows a 15-B which is almost identical to the 15L. Both are great musical instrument drivers. Cast frame woofers. I use them interchangibly, for the last 25 years or so, they sound great. The 15L, EV says has a bright sound, and the 15B a more traditional bass sound. I need my ears checked because I can't tell the difference. The University C15W, also shown, might work. It would not fit thru the SK's access cover. It might fit if I remove the magnet cover. Another prominent member of this forum used an Eminence CB15 for a horn he designed and has a patent pending on it. He says you get great results if you use a driver that meets Keele's figure of merit for bass horns.

The K-33 is the best driver for the 3 x 13 slot on the motorboard. The actual throat size of the Khorn under the motorboard is 78 sq inches. I will not try to explain why it works with a slot half of the throat size it should have. Dr. Edgar wrote an article in Speaker Builder to explain it, then wrote a second one because the first article is in error. If you're going to use another driver, you may have to enlarge the slot to 6 x 13. Most 15" drivers can use the 6 x 13 throat. An 18" driver will require a larger throat size and a redesign of the enclosure. A 12" can be used if you build a horn extension inside the doghouse to reduce the throat area for a 12". I doubt that you'll do that. Dr.Edgar's article "The Show Horn" which is also on the Volveter's website gives you guidelines on driver selection using T/S parameters. Also read Keele's "Low Frequency Horn Design Using Thiele-Small Driver Parameters". Basically, what these articles are saying is that you need a driver with a high Fs and low Qts. Most musical instrument speaker drivers meet the requirement. A prominent member of this forum recommends a cast frame woofer, and says that the K-33, structurally is "not good" (These are not the exact words he said, I'm being nice.)

I built my SK clones in 1986, with the t35 crossed at 3500hz (EV's favorite xover point with an X36), but mine was 12db/oct. I only changed over to ALK's about two years ago. The spec sheet says usable low freq limit of 3500.

If you decide to sell them someday, let me know. I have all the as-built components for the Classic, except the tweeters. Armando

Here's Tom Mobley's thread on building his Belle. Maybe this will give you an idea as to the simplicity of construction. Cost? That will depend on what components/mods you want to use. http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/thread/418466.aspx

here's an HF-206.

The seller has been trying to sell those for over a year now. Here's a picture of one of those Classics, dated 5-17-2005.

Bill, The S-8 is the deluxe factory built version of the S-9. Thanks for the info you provided. I won mine on ebay. The seller parted the S-8, I won the enclosure. Here's a thread about it . I would like to know more about your mods. Also, try www.hifilit.com http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/1/657137/ShowThread.aspx Dakayus, The S-8 and S-9 are huge speakers. You can build them but you're going to need extra large bookshelves (LOL!). They are single path horns, though, unlike the Klipsches. There are some forum members who had built La Scalas and Belles. Maybe the'll chime in.

Bill, Where are the S-9's now? I have an S-8, and been looking for another one (and getting ready to build a pair of Deans). What do you think of the S9's? Armando

You can build a pair of La Scalas (or Belles) without spending huge bucks. They're easy to make.

Charles, Your depth for volume calculations is the midpoint of the slanted board. The angle doesn't matter. The triangle lost is equal to the triangle gained. In other words, if you know the rectangular box dimensions, just tilt the board to the angle you want, the midpoint as the pivot point. My vote is for no. 3, although I like all three. Armando

Just like Marshall, I like to compare the Speakerlab plans with actual Klipsch's plans. al_senson@yahoo.com TNX.

This is probably more comprehensible than the previous drawing.

That drawing is not the Belle Klipsch but a design by Peter Akemark from Sweden (he's also a forum member). You'll see a picture of him (his avatar) on page 12 of the New Belle thread pics. That extra duct is to reduce the path for a 12 inch driver down to a throat that is about 4 3/4 x 9 1/2. That's why it looks different. Armando

A midrange-tweeter-midrange (MTM) setup is probably something worth trying.

HarleyMo, Here's a picture of Chris' SK.

I don't think bending the flare like this will have any negative impact on the bass output, it worked for the Jubilee, didn't it?. Maybe a speaker guru can comment on this. Now, where's Master Yoda ?

Then, I'll move the broken path down to correct the elongated path, extend the lines to the wall and finalize the false corners dimensions.