Coytee

Sooooooooo, does someone have the Zilica profile they can post/send so that others might have access to it? Also, I'm presuming it was profiled using the K--691 driver?

Good luck in your next endeavor.... (ok guys....it took us 10 years to run him off, how long will it take to run his successors away??)

It's true..... when he sits between them....there's nothing between his ears.... (ducking from the inbound that might follow)

Actually, posted wrong picture above, meant to find this one on a LaScala

Having thicker sidewalls, they ought to resonate less than an original pair. Will make them sound like they have deeper bass although that bass has always been there, just masked by the sides resonating. Since you evidently have Cornwalls.....before you get rid of these, it might be interesting to you if you could hear a pair with the K510 or the K402 on top, as a 2-way. That setup will likely put your LaScalas (with current top) in second seat.... might also do that to your Cornwalls..... presuming you could live with the looks. Here's a sample of the 510 on a Belle and a 402 on a LaScala. In your case you could remove the top section.

Update: Wife has been doing laundry today.... "so far" pump is keeping up with demand. Interestingly, when I shake the capacitor, there is a faint rattle inside of it....so something is loose. Rattled the "new" one (that is too large) and there are no rattles. Looked them up and it's probably 25 miles away to find one and I'm working all day so I simply ordered two of the same unit. Coming from Grainger, will take a couple days but a 2-minute fix when arrive. By having an extra, I can throw this too large one away and have a spare. They're only like $20 so not a big deal.... in fact, very cheap compared to having it blow and no replacement on hand. At least I'm hobbling along for a day/three. I rue the day when the pump dies. it's very easy to get to but, the wife, wanting to hide it, planted a nice bush (which is now huge) next to it. If the pump (when?) needs replaced, that bush will probably need replaced as well because it's totally in the way of access. Still.... if this is a fix, I'm good to go. If it blows in 1-45 days then I start knowing that I might have other issues. I do like my well... I think it's rated at 109 gallons/minute.... not that i can ever extract it that fast.

No clue. If I recall, I think it's hanging down around 300', if that helps. budda-boom.....

This happened 10/15 years ago....well just died. Turned power off, looked at some of the things and (at that time) the contacts were fried....so slapped a new set in and after turning power back on, all was well. Pump died again several years later.... pressure gauge contacts looked fine....kept poking around and the starter motor capacitor (might not be the correct name) was toast. It was housed in a controller box. Went to store, bought replacement....and the replacement was (let's say) one inch too long. BACK to store, bought slightly shorter replacement (with original in hand) and all was well. (pun not intended!) Today, water dies. Contacts still look strong, breaker fine, fuse at pressure tank fine. I start to eyeball the capacitor. Just so happens I have the prior one that's too large. On a gander, crammed it into the space and vi-ola, I now have water. So seems it died again. Brings me to my question.... it is 88-108 uF As I look online to attempt to see if the box stores even mention this, I start to see 86-103 uF, 161-193 uF and this got me wondering..... how exact must the uF be? I'm certainly going to try to find an exact replacement.... Size will be important as it has to fit in the box! If I can't find the exact 88-108 uF, is it better to go larger or smaller? It's been probably 50 years since I had 'electric shop' in Jr. High School.... so recall very little other than liquid solder is usually HOT!!! Stores are closed tonight, I'm working 7-5 tomorrow non stop at home so will likely send the wife to store with old unit in hand. The physical dimensions will be critical as it has to fit....otherwise, how much wiggle room do I have on the uF numbers? (or are those the ones of concern?)

Just think how much better it would have been had you used something that was compatible...

My respect and man-love for you just doubled. My mother walked that same walk so my eyes are watering. (also pushed into taking piano lessons against my will.... can't hardly play chopsticks today BUT that "training" made me wicked on a keyboard.

Yeah, like others....jealous!!! Looks like a fantastic trip and a beautiful location. When you left home and arrived on location, how long did it take? I've always gone east (europe) and never been further west than swimming in the ocean in California. Love the idea of going somewhere on that side of the world but slow down thinking it's a trip just to get to California and you are just now starting the trip from there.... Tough to squeeze a trip like that in a week vacation so it would have to be 2-3 weeks (my opinion). Any non-stop flights from Knoxville to there?

I've never connected mine but I think the TAD is 1 1/2" exit at the mouth and the adapter takes it up to 2". I don't recall how things were then but I'd expect the adapter would have been used. I also recall some mention that the adapter would cause a little bit of beaming because of having to transition to 2". I wondered out loud "Well gee.... can't you just shorten the length of the adapter, moving the driver closer to the horn mouth and let that broaden the dispersion?? Rigma, the ever clever engineer, then went and designed one. My understanding is he had at least one made, installed it.... and said he didn't like it. If I recall, he said the HF was attenuated too much for him. (you are now outside of my technical skills) So, that got me thinking.... well yeah it's attenuated. Why? I'm guessing because of the driver being closer, it's now dispersing MORE which means less focused sound at a given spot.... the HF probably needs tweaked to restore the integrity of the HF. As best I know, nobody has ever sent one to Roy for Roy to.....drop whatever it is that he's doing.... mount things and recurve things using the adapter. So in the end, I don't know if it's a viable idea or not. Here's the schematic for it. Also... when I mount my TAD on the 402, if you look at the speaker from behind "TAD" is rotated to an angle. Not a big deal since who looks at a corner speaker from the rear? I will admit that I "notice" that. Not saying it BUGS me, but yeah....maybe I'm a bit OCD. If I recall correctly, Rigma rotated things a bit such that the "TAD" on the driver would be parallel to the ground, not sloped up or down. Not sure of this but....well.....he's an engineer....and we all know how they have attention to detail. TAD+402+rev7.pdfTAD+402+rev7.pdf

I don't know if the site will still allow an Excel spreadsheet. If so, here it is with all the variations that I knew of at the time. It's predicated on the EV-DX38 and yes, the K69 driver and a couple using the TAD 4002 driver. The LaScala/K510/K69 is on there. Also in that recipe for the LaScala, is a PEQ that helps to electronically remove the sidewalls from resonating so much. I'm guessing you know by now but the 510 is a Klipsch horn. It is/was actually the tweeter horn on the Jubilee sitting above the K402. It is a 2" horn, like the 402. I got my 510 personally from Roy (bought it from him when he offered it up for sale) and I was going to use it for a center channel.....but..... the wife had other thoughts so it's never been used. Jubilee settings for all variations using Dx38.xlsJubilee settings for all variations using Dx38.xlsJubilee settings for all variations using Dx38.xlsJubilee settings for all variations using Dx38.xlsJubilee settings for all variations using Dx38.xls

So, are you high in the Rocky Mountains.....or are you high in the Rocky Mountains? (had to ask!!)

My understanding is it will ground everything and whatever is left, is the base noise level of the amp. Just take (what I presume you might use) an old RCA wire. Snip it in two. Strip the leads on each half to short them together. Put one into the Right/Left inputs and see (hear) what's left. If you do this and hear the noise then as I understand, you'll never be able to get rid of it. On the other hand, if it DOES "go away", then I'm not sure what your next step would be. I'll leave that to those more learned than myself. (could be just about anyone!)

Have you *actually* used a shorting plug on your inputs yet? I read above and didn't ascertain that you actually did it. perhaps you did....my wife says I'm too picky on the word someone uses and I don't read between the lines. Anyway... I had a similar issue and ended up with some amps that have variable gain so I could lower the gain and lower the noise. When I discovered my issue, I had a dbx BX-1 which has a 1volt input sensitivity compared with (I forget) something like 2.25 with a McIntosh amp I also had. Again, I forget the actual number but the dbx amp was a high strung amp! Now, you can put your ear inside the tweeter and not hear any hiss BUT, I've got the gains turned to about 25% of their range. I don't know what that infers the input sensitivity might now be. I'm guessing you know this but, it's not your speakers. It's the diet they're being fed.

Greenback

Guess I never updated this.... my apologies. Neighbor was having an charity event at her property. She's got a 12K sq/ft home and I think about 7 acres around it. The vision was have this outdoor concert (a quartet kind of thing) out in the field. Once the band got there, seems everyone had a different idea. They also, needed power. They set their stuff up on her (large) driveway and just plugged into her house. Tents/people were on the grass island and food, goodies, auctioned items were all in her two garages (two seperate two car garages) Charity event raised something like $60K to go towards renovating an antique building 'downtown' which is/was at risk of toppling over. I laugh when I say "downtown". If you recall Mayberry RFD.... and when they went "into the city" they went to Mt. Pilot. Well.... our "downtown" makes Mayberry look like New York City. We have a single building which is divided into three businesses (it was the end unit of this building that had deteriorated) We have a single stop sign BUT alas....we also have a red/blinking stop light....at the SAME intersection. (talk about over kill) Post office, old abandoned train station and someone's other building that is for either antiques or used clothing (not really sure) and that's about it! All of that is on a 200/300 foot stretch on both sides of street.

I was needing a new car. Friends son had passed. He said his son had a 'fancy Honda' that I could buy....(and did so) Hybrid Accord. Gas engine but think trains.....diesel electric. Car has gas engine, powering the big battery, generator AND the wheels. Makes a lot of sense to me as I have the range of a gas car and some higher mileage because of the electric. I've averaged 51 MPG's over 23,000 miles and still look at the display every day with a bit of disbelief. Being electric drive, it will also SCOOT when you put it into sport mode, verses econ mode. Now, if they could just make a diesel electric version of this..... or similar for lawn mower!! (I've converted everything I can over to diesel but for chain saws and backpack blower. Tough to lug a 3-4 cylinder engine on your back to produce the electricity!!

What's her name? Oh wait.... I'm still married....never mind & carry on.

Got a fireplace?

Do you have room in/behind the walls? (my wife's legs sticking out of the closet where the electronics reside) Don't ask me where I hid the Danley subwoofer. Side comment, wife did all the trim work AND made the grills.

Hmmm... perhaps they used 3" bose drivers in them when you heard the double bins? When I had my singles outside (I only had two of them) I wired them up with the 402 atop. As I plugged in the second bass bin, it pretty much sounded pathetic. Oops....seems some oaf had changed polarity INSIDE the bass bin (not me, yes, there is another oaf out there somewhere) Pulled the wire back out, taking me back to the single bin....reversed wire, plugged in..... I'll admit, I WAS waiting for a 'happening'..... but all that really happened is the bass got a little bit meatier. No flashbulbs going off, no fireworks BUT, you could easily discern when the second bin was playing (this was outside) I would have to think that inside that extra oomph would not be significant but, will admit, never had them inside to find out Always fun playing with this stuff! I always get a kick out of this next picture as it starts to give a sense of scale to those who think a LaScala is "big" Then you can see the K402 is LxW actually LARGER than the LaScala. (that K77 looks so puny) "Ha ha...my speaker is bigger than your speaker" "Well....my tweeter is bigger than your entire speaker!" (walks away with tail tucked)

Just like the Jubilee might crush the LaScala.....the MWM's -vs- UG Jubilee's......

Been too long for me to remember accurately but I seem to recall thinking the FOUR driver bass bin (942 has two drivers I think?) The larger brother with 4 drivers, seemed (to my beer & peanuts way of thinking) "kept up" with the UG Jubilee better than any other. I do think we listened to the 942 but....been too long. I don't think I'd kick the 942's outta bed for playing Marie Osmond.