Coytee

Here it is. Some comments though: 1. It's an active so you'd need four channels of amplification 2. This is the original one he did and it presumes the original driver, K-69 (or was it the K-69-A?) 3. If you use a different HF driver, you might likely have to adjust the settings on the crossover 4. Note the PEQ: -7 db's @ 148 Hz, this will take most/all of the resonance of the bass bin out and they will sound like they're playing deeper bass. 5. Forgot... the attached PEQ files were created on an EV (Electro-Voice) DX-38. If you use one of those, it's plug & play. If you use another brand (Xilica comes to mind) they use a different format...so you might have to figure out how the different input formats change the stated input value. The 'deeper bass' is actually already there, it's just being masked by the sidewalls resonating. It's a good fix. DX-38 settings for LaScala (1 or 2) LF with K402 & K69.pdf

Just walked up there again with my brother in law and a tape measure. The White Oak tree has a bifurcation in it..... 30' from the root ball and it's (by eyeballing the tape) 24" diameter. THEN, each of the bifurcated sections are still large/thick enough for some extra goodies. This really is the one I've got my eyeballs on. Now that I know what the leaf above is, some of the other trees that I presumed are/were red oak.... turns out they are this tulip (Poplar?) as well. So there is a bunch of it. Plenty of widow makers up there too.... branches up high hung up.... couple entire trees that are leaning & being held by another tree. Company next door.... I'm out of town all week.... I think we're due for rain next weekend. Sigh, seems like it won't be until September that I'll be able to touch this stuff.

It's already down. One of the niceties of owning an industrial backhoe/loader that will dig 15 1/2' deep or reach out something like 21'. There are maybe 4-5 other identical trees but this was the big one. We're looking to build a detached garage and these trees need to go. I'm about 1/4-1/3 done. Uproot them, take to burn pile and am going to be having a large weenie roast down the road. (I need to get it burning to shrink the pile, it's starting to get quite large with entire trees being put into it)

Dang! I've been looking for a couple weeks. I agree, it appears to be a Tuplip tree other than I don't think I've ever seen blooms or flowers but admit....I've never looked! Is it worth the effort/cost to be cut into 1x? lumber or am I better off dragging it to the burn pile and put my $$ into cutting the several white oak and dozen or so red oaks that fell from the storm? The Oaks are probably 2-3 times the girth and very clean too. (primarily red oak, one known white oak and one known poplar, otherwise, I've not really looked too close as it's a maze of 'gotcha's' with the trees/branches/holes, I focus more on where my foot is than the wood)

Have a tree I needed to down. Tree showed some damage at the base of it that was turning black. Would fall over sooner or later. Dug root-ball, pushed tree over and now, danger is over. Looking at the leaf though, I'm wondering if this is a Maple of some kind? If so, I might cut to logs and have it taken to sawmill so it can be cut into some boards. This is not the kind of Maple that I grew up with but that's what it strikes me as being, anyone know? I heard rumor from Roy there is a free pair of Jubilee's for the right answer! Tree is probably near 80+ feet tall just eyeballing it. Maybe 20-24 inches diameter. Hardly a branch for 50' then the canopy is after that so it it IS a (good type to be cut into lumber) Maple, then it's very clean.

I can barely read these things without old wounds being revisited. Sorry for your loss and I know the empty hole that's there. There is such purity in their love.

I'm not familiar with your equipment so pardon me if I butcher this. Not sure what you have.....but, what you WANT is one leg of your signal to each part you want to 'biamp'. Line out goes to an active crossover. The crossover splits the signal as appropriate then the crossover has several output lines. THESE are what go to your respective amps. So, lines 1-2 might go to the HF section of your speakers (with you having disconnected the passive) and lines 3-4 go to your other amps inputs and those go to the woofers of your speakers. Doing this will keep things in balance volume wise. What I'm wondering is, would your idea work? (probably) BUT, would you be constantly changing the volume to get the woofers & tweeters in balance? If so then that would drive me nuts. You can certainly biamp and mix/match amps. Just a matter of putting the right parts of the puzzle into the right locations to make it work. I would have thought that a "mono-block" would be one chassis = one amp. If you have a 5-channel amp it might be a PENTA-BLOCK amp..... as contrasted with a "Mono-Block" (just being OCD)

must have exploded

Probably floss after eating popcorn too! lol I would have thought the insides would remain pristine then remembered there's a vent which might allow stuff in there.

To answer your question, I don't know. That said, I used to have some Custom 3's which were IEM's. They were flat/flush with the outer ear. I used them with over-ear hearing protection muffs for when I would be using my tractor or backhoe (or saw/other...) They finally gave up the ghost. Doesn't seem Klipsch makes IEM's anymore but instead more of what I'd call the 'stick' variety. Now, I've got a pair of "X-201" (whatever that means). Sound good and all that BUT, they do stick out of the ear further so now, when I have my hearing protection on, I have to wiggle things just right or the ear muffs will add pressure to the buds and cause discomfort. I could (and did) wear the C-3's literally all day. These cause me adjustment issues every now & then because of the contact pressure. Not huge mind you but after a while, gets annoying. I'd wonder if you'd be better served looking at some IEM's so they fit flat and maybe wrap around your ear like the Custom 3's did. Be nice if they brought those back or an updated version of them. I'd be all over a pair.

I was going to say it might be a shame to sell these.....you might regret that later in life but it sounds like he's got you covered. Sounds like a really cool guy. They look darn near pristine in the picture. I've got some 1979's that I bought new... "great condition" but look like trash next to yours. Good luck with the sale!

I don't think anyone would argue that at all. They might have a favorite model... but in the end, McIntosh does seem to mix well with Heritage. Keeping with my opinion.... "so do others" As cool as the blue lights & other bells/whistles might be.... there might be other less expensive options that service someone well. It IS however, a pretty easy no-brainer to presume the McIntosh will work/sound perfectly fine. Frankly, I always wanted to try a pair of (if I recall) MC-352's so I could biamp. I've read nothing but glowing comments about those (presuming I've got the correct number)

Among others.... I've had: A pristine pair of MC-30's MC-2102 Sounded great and all that jazz.... I finally decided that I'm not fussy enough to worry about the fractional difference in sound....verses the substantial difference in price. I finally sold them, bought a pair of Crown K2's and put the cash in my pocket. I'm more than 100% cash ahead.... and maybe 95% of the sound. I'm totally happy with that swap. Ultimately, for me, I felt the change in speakers far outweighed any difference in sound the amps might have provided.

I'm thinking you're CLOSE...... *if* you were not wearing socks.....however....

yep... not biamping, though there are two amps involved

Nice looking stuff there.... a bit down memory lane! I especially like the Lava Lamp..... brings back memories of me going to the barber as a child. I am pretty sure though that @Marvel might have different memories in the presence of lamps like that.

Probably the name of a Carpenter.... you know.... like back in biblical times... Sort of rhymes with Hey Zus!

Was it 40 or perhaps 4.0? I am certainly no tube expert.... but I always thought 2A3's were 'around' 3.5 watts. I'd find it easier to believe that was a typo rather than them putting out 40.

Happy "Another Trip Around the Sun". Hope they keep getting better. It's been fun riding the contrails of some of your creations/improvements. You learnt good!!

...as long as you didn't inhale... Heck, I clearly recall when I saw Floyd in 1994... when the lights went down....POOF, I inhaled more that night than any other concerts (plural) I'd been to combined. (and I don't smoke at all and have 'never' .... partaken) Yeah, just like there is in theory, a perfect circle.... there might be also in theory, a perfect square....but really, all one has to do is meet me and you will have met the perfect square.

Dip into the world of car audio.... that was nowhere on my map and I can see how it could work. By all means, let's not let @Chief bonehead see this.... it might bring a tear (of Joy?? of Horror??) to his eyes if I'm able to convert some MWM's into "Super Car Audio" speakers!! (I'm going to register the name "Super" so I can use it exclusively) Now, I might have to find a VW Beetle that I can slightly modify to mount them....

Clever thinking! I had not thought of a car unit at all!! Still have the 110 volt issue with active crossover (unless you can configure the little amps?) I know nothing about this stuff, I'm old school, plug in CD/DVD player, preamp, active, to amps...call it a day. That process might not work BUT.... got to thinking about how could it work with 110 power... Trying to simplify the complexity.... wondering if one could get a (example) 12-3 wire (or maybe 10-3 because of distance). use a double breaker BUT, at the end in the field.... use black/white as one 110 volt leg, use red/white as the OTHER 110 volt leg so now you have two lines of 110 volt, both sharing the same common. I get accused sometimes of over-thinking things.

You want to play your system outdoors, away from any power source (preferring to NOT use a generator to avoid the noise) You want to use: MWM double bass bins K-402 on top.... MAYBE do it as a 3-way. Source would be a memory stick. Could you use (what I think are/were called) "T-amps'?? how do you power them? Could you use a 12V auto battery? How much juice would you have for outdoor use? How long (if applicable) might the battery last? Is there a player that you can plug the stick into? How does this relate to the need of using an active (110 volt) crossover? If power is there, none of this matters...as it can simply be plugged in. If NO power is there, how do you make this work?

In some situations, it might be more complexity than it's worth (?) Now, I presume you mean true biamping and not some of those marketing ideas. True biamping is signal out of preamp, goes into active crossover, out of active into power amps and then to speakers. Meanwhile, you will have unhooked the passive inside your speakers... oh, aren't the 20's a 3-way speaker? Are you going to tri-amp? You could perhaps leave the HF passive in there and feed one leg to woofers, second leg to passive and let it split to the tweeter. Might be a bigger bite to chew verses just plugging in and enjoying. What problem are you attempting to fix?

Cleveland Ohio or Cleveland Tennessee? I grew up in Hamilton, down near Cincy....several hours from Cleveland. Today, am in Knoxville.... maybe 90 minutes from Cleveland (TN) Maybe Cleveland is trying to tell me something? Welcome to the madness. Your setup looks very nice! Tomorrow's game will sound fantastic on it (as will most everything else)