chops

I've never heard of the K40Y's before. I might have to check them out, although these original Sangamo's are sounding darn fine still in this amp and you wouldn't believe what people are willing to pay me for these caps if I ever remove them from the amp! At any rate, I won't waste my time or money on snake oil boutique "audiophile" caps. I've heard a lot of people say they "upgraded" to those boutique capsin old amps like this plus Dynaco's, Mac's, Fisher's, etc, etc and the outcome was not good. Sticking with the simple basic caps sounded much better.

Thanks! Yes, those are the original coupling caps, but they measure and sound good. I have thought about upgrading to new Orange Drops, the 617's I believe they are? I might one day, but I'm just trying to sort out the rest of the amp first.

I did, but they were so massive, I got rid of them and went with "normal" speakers. Now I have a pair of mint NHT 2.9's.

Here I am resurrecting an old thread because I have also resurrected an old dead amp... Some of you may remember me as jt1stcav's "little bro". Well about 6 months after this thread, the 3-section can caps in the Baldwin amp died, leaving Jim high and dry, which is why he went and got the Sansui receiver he uses now. Our father is still too busy with his own work to take a look at the Baldwin, so I figured I'd take a stab at it since my father's old Technics SU-8099 just died on me a couple months back. As of right now, I have gone through the entire amp checking all the caps and resistors. I have disconnected the can caps (keeping them in place) and have soldered in new electrolytics, two pairs of 47uF - 450v filter caps for the power supply and one pair of 47uF - 160v caps for the cathode bias circuit.A couple of the Chinese 6L6GC that came with the amp were super noisy, so I replaced them with a prime matched quad of Russain 6N3C-E mil-spec tubes. I'm still using the RCA 5751 drivers, and have replaced one noisy GE 5U4GB with a NOS Sylvania 5U4G. At this point, the amp sounds and performs better than ever. Here's one quick pic of the amp now and one of the guts. It's been running flawlessly for more than a month now! I'll add a bit more info and pics in a little bit...

Hi Bruce Yeah, it's been a while. I don't know about my bro though. I thought he was still on here on a regular basis. Anyway, 900Hz seems like a good xover point at the moment. It's not a definate yet as I haven't done any measurements at 900Hz. And just in case you didn't notice by the pic (since it's a straight on shot), these are open baffle speakers using 2 Usher Audio 15HM drivers per side. I still have that 51uF Solen cap hanging off the rear of the 902-8B drivers to soak up any possible turn-on thump if there was ever to be one, just for safety. They have solid output down to about 35Hz or so and sound really good. They turned out much better than I was expecting. You can't been that open baffle naturalness. This was the last test I ran with the xover point up at 1kHz.

Hey, even with my 20+ year old, work hardened 902-8B drivers, I still swear by them. Mounted to the 511B's, being crossed over at 900Hz and being EQ'ed a little bit in their current state, these horns do NOT sound like horns at all, except for their efficiency and effortless projection into the room.

3+ weeks and no response. Hmm...

Still up for grabs...

Great! I'd really appreciate that. Thanks. Hopefully, one of the guys will want it. At least it will be put to good use that way. []

Any offers?

It's really nothing more than a fancy term for bracketing, and you NEED a tripod in order to do it right. A remote would also be a good idea, as the slightest movement change of the camera will give you that "3-D" effect. This way, you get a good exposure for shadow detail, midtone detail, and highlight detail. You then combine them in Photoshop to make a single picture only using the best exposed area out of each shot to make a complete, equally overall exposed image. All of this because for the longest time, digital had even less exposure latitude than even slide film. but digital has come a long way and their latitude is getting greater and greater with every new version that comes out.

BUMP.

"Isn't this the pot calling the kettle black?" Not really. I don't think so. I never claimed that I was overly fond of the sound of the Cornwalls, stock or modified with BEC's tweeters and modded crossovers. Sure, there was a modest improvement over stock with these little mods, but I still wasn't thrilled with the sound, and certainly not satisfied to leave well enough alone. The ONLY thing that I always liked about the Cornwalls was how they project a large wall of sound, which most large scale loudspeakers do well anyway. Large speakers sound large. Now I do claim that I'm overly fond of my current setup via the K33-E in the stock CW enclosure, Altec 511B/902 combo, active crossover and EQ, and bi-amped. But like TBrennan says, it's no longer a Klipsch loudspeaker at this point, but a custom job, which I am perfectly happy with. Do I think they're perfect now? Absolutely not, but I'm sure you'd have to pay a considerable amount of $$$ more to get better performance. Anyway, I don't want to get into any arguements here, and I'm not going to either. I'm not even going to get upset or angry! If everyone responded to my comments/opinions on this particular subject the way oldtimer did, I wouldn't mind hanging out here more often. It was very calm, grown-up and civilized. But sure enough, there will someone that will come on here, read what I wrote, and try to bash the hell out of me because I have no issues with Bose but have said that Klipsch has faults of their own. Which to a lot of members on here, that's like committing the ultimate sin. Oh well.

LOL.. No, but I think I know what you are referring to and they have been fixed. []

Exactly! I agree 100%. It's because most of the people on here are brainwashed into thinking that Klipsch is the best thing since slided bread. However they are always having to modify their precious Klipsch speakers to clean up the midrange, take out the nasty harshness, improve the treble, and try to get deeper bass. But why do you have to try and "improve" something that you "think" is the one and only perfect speaker?! I mean, you can't improve on perfection, right? The real sad thing is, most of you guys are in your 30's, 40's and 50's, and you go on and on about Bose like you're little children. "My daddy is better than your daddy... My daddy can beat your daddy..." People, I really believe it's about time you decided to grow up for once. Why not make it a New Year's Resolution? Trust me, it would be for the better. [8-)]

Forgot to mention, price drop of now $275, shipped!

bump^^

And another...

How's about a little bumperoo?! []

I can certainly attest to the fact that my brother is indeed a slob. LOL [] On a more serious note, I have to admit, his system sounds the best it ever has with those 75's in there. I really didn't think they were going to sound much better than what he's had in there before, but those little RB75's (actually quite large for book shelf speakers) really make the system shine. They're full and smooth, with decent, solid bass output, a natural and full-bodied midrange and crisp, accurate highs without being harsh or bright. I'm really amazed and glad he finally has something that works and sounds good! Now I don't have to run and hide everytime he turns his stereo on. []

Or instead of disconnecting and moving equipment all over creation, you can just select one of the preset white balance modes or do your own custom white balance to get the correct colors back in the pics, no matter what the lighting conditions are. [8-)]

Thanks, Mike. I really miss that car, but fortunately it found itself a good home somewhere near where I live. Every once in a while I'll see it going down the road. Just a couple weeks ago, my bro and I were out in my Miata and I saw it coming up the road. It was all nice and clean (which means it's being taken care of) and there was some young chick driving it. Pretty cool. I wonder if the stereo is still in it. I did a stealth install and built a two layer false floor in the trunk and mounted both amps, DSP, 1.5F cap, 12" sub and enclosure, and all associated cables and such underneith. To the untrained eye, you wouldn't know the difference. All the speakers, tweeters and passive crossovers were all hidden behind the stock grills and panels. The ONLY thing visable was the Alpine headunit and front tweeters in the stock locations, but again, no one noticed them being aftermarket. BTW, the entire stereo install was completed without a single thing bolted to the car. Everything in the trunk was held in place by friction only! For the 4AWG power cable, I had to drill a single 1/2" hole in the firewall behind the pedals to run the cable to the rear. That was the ONLY hole ever cut in this car. Yeah, that was a sweat ride for sure, but I still love my little MX5 Roadster and don't regret buying it. [H] Alpine HU, preamp only (no internal amps)... Line driver installed in glove box... The MB Quart tweeters in stock location... MB Quart mids... (behind stock grills) Me wiring up the crossovers... Prep work. Notice the first raised false floor that the amps are mounted to and cap mounted on back side of sub which fits prefectly inside the spare tire well... First false floor installed with everything wired up and ready to go... Second false floor being installed with integrated subwoofer grill... And the completed trunk. The two wires hanging on either side right below the rear deck are the stock speaker wires which obviously were not used. I tucked them up out of the way later... I know guys/gals... Sorry, I got a little carried away with the car thing. I am just so proud of that car and the work I did to it, and none of this shows all of the other customs mods I made to it, engine, exhaust, suspension, brakes, etc, etc... And for just one last pic for good measure. []

Ethan Allen has some nice pieces, not hella expensive, not cheap, not cheap looking, high WAF. One of the strong points to not having a wife.

As far as looks go, I'd have to say my '02 Hyundai Sonata, 2.4L I4 and 5-speed manual, 18" wheels with 225/40 meats. It was pretty quick too, faster than anything else Hyundai puts out stock, even the V6 Tibs. Of course, it had some custom work done to it, stainless 2.5" dual-exit exhaust (designed by me), custom intake (again, by me), remapped ECU. For most fun, it's a toss up between this '96 Nissan 200SX SE-R and my current car. It had the awsome sr20de motor and 5-speed manual. I installed a Garret turbo, reworked the head a little, stand-alone engine management, and ran a mixture of 108 octane race fuel and alcohol (for track days). At it's max setting of 17psi, it was dynoed at 350hp and 320ft lbs at the wheels, and my best pull was an 11.7 sec @ 117mph in the 1/4 mile on 17" 205/40 street rubber, and clocked at a top speed of 161mph at 7900rpm. The second pic was taken right before my "other brother" started holding on for dear life when I took it up 160mph, laying the speedo needle ever so gently onto the trip reset button shaft. My current fun car, and probably my favorite is the '02 Mazda Miata. I thought this car was stock, however I have found out that the compression is up from the stock 10:1 to now 11.5:1, the flywheel replaced with a lightweight aluminum one, and the ECU has been tinkered with (timing, air/fuel). I put an R-Speed intake and Racing Beat exhaust on it, some suspension tweaks, and just recently installed a set of Falken Azenis Rt615 205/50-15 rubbers on it. These tires do NOT let go under any circumstance as they are DOT approved racing tires. It has run a best of 14.5 sec @ 98mph in the 1/4 mile, and literally runs out of gear at 131mph at 7000rpm.

I still prefer setup #1 in the "Before" pic. Only if the TV was centered and the main channels were on the floor instead of on the cabinet and sub, it would be fine. I've never liked any of those "entertainment centers". To me, they all look cheap and cheesy. Sorry.