Scp53
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Posts posted by Scp53
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Ive decided since finding a buyer locally will be very hard, Im going to keep the amp for a later project and sell just the driver. Please contact me via email (thejonjon@gmail.com) if you have interest,questions, or want pics. Again I have no set price on this. Thanks
scp53
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Oops, forgot my email I think. thejonjon@gmail.com
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I have a Ascendant Audio Atlas 15in in a 24in cube tuned to 20hz with a PE 500 watt Class G amp for sale. This was used in my home theater. I am selling this only due to its size and have no set price on it as of now.
ABOUT THE SUB:
It's built of 3/4in mdf with double thick MDF on the front baffle. There is a brace runs in the middle that touches all four cabinet sides which is made of 3/4in MDF also. The rear panel/side that holds the amp has a 2in X 3in brace that runs the full width of the panel just below the amp. I used two 4in Precision Ports to tune this sub which are mounted to the front baffle just below the driver.
The finish on it is ok, but not perfect. I used many layers of this flat black paint(cant remember name???) with sanding in between. Then I used clear coat at the end in multiple coats(sanding in between).
The driver, for those that don't know, is dual voice coil, has the ability to adjust the Q of the driver (depends on VC wiring), has Adires Audio XBL motor technology (low distortion), and is bottomless(no mechanical failures from pushing past xmax). Currently, Ascendant Audio does not have this driver on their site(past model). If interested, I could get you the specs on the driver.
And finally, the amp used is on it is directly from Parts Express. Very reliable and has soft clipping. Also, it has a parametric eq on it to tune it to the room. I have this amp and a 250watt from Parts Express and have yet to see one fail or give me problems. Been using both for quite a while now.
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This unit weighs in at about 120lbs and Im selling to locals only. No shipping as I think that would get way to expensive.
I live near Eau Claire, WI and would possibly drive to drop off the unit depending on the situation. Please email me if you are interested/questions or post on here if you have any questions. Thanks! scp53
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thanks for the reply. so, do you think this amp will have more problems down the road? As I said before, maybe modifying the box to fit different amp is the way to go? PE has 240 watt class AB amps that are very reliable. $120 plus shipping. But Im not sure the sub is worth spending that much on. I hooked up my 250watt PE amp and honestly, this subs is definetly boomy and lacks extension(could have guessed that based on a small short port in a decent sized box). Besides that, the box build quality is poor(1/2inch particle board) and the woofer used is nothing special. Its msrp was $350 originally 5 years ago when he bought it. Someone help me decide if this sub is worth fixing...
btw, just to note theEar, Im no expert at soldering. Im ok,(modified my own amp one time, build a multi test from scratch too) and those turned out ok. BTW, I dont think you mentioned what type of solder I should use? anything special?(figuring I fix vs replace the amp?)
thanks again, scp53
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I have a friend with a JBL PSW D110 that died. He keeps replacing fuses
and they keep blowing(as soon as it gets a signal from the receiver, it
blows... grounding issue?).
I have pulled the amp and the C6 cap is blown and a few of the nearby
resistors got burned(when the cap blew). I was searching for help but
have found very little. I found this quote from a guy on a review
saying
"JBL suggests replacing this blown out C6 capacitor with a 10uF,
100V, NPE cap. They also suggest replacing the C24 cap with a 100nF,
50V cap, the R46 resistor with a 47ohm, 1/4 Watt resistor, and the R23
resistor with a 20kilo-ohm, 1/2 Watt resistor." Can anyone verify this?
My last question is if I solder the old parts off and put on the
"better" new ones, do I need to use really good solder? I was told bad
solder will induce noise into the circuit...? Other than that, Im
capable of replacing the parts.
Thanks for the help, scp53
ps- the guy would also buy a whole new amp if the JBL is going to blow
again(after I fix it)... maybe this is the way to go? have to modify
the box of course...
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CAS,
what do you mean by qes and pe? qes is the electrical q of the driver and the pe is rms power handling. what does this have to do with finding air velocity of the vent/port? you should be able to "plug in" X watts and go to the air velocity graph and see where it peaks,etc.
What version of winISD are you using? the "standard" or "pro"? I think only the "pro" version will show the air velocity and all the other advanced stuff.The basic version of winisd wont(at least I dont think so)...
scp53
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exactly! well said...
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I wondering why Klipsch did this? I guess its obviously to save space.... Does anyone know if that chuffing comes into play on the subs published output specs? I know they only publish what is under 10% thd but would they still leave chuffing distortion in it? To me, chuffing at 40m/s would be very bad. Just as bad as thd or any other distortion. hmmm.... scp53
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No No Jay, I wasnt doubting that the little round overs dont help with turbulance, Im sure they do! I was just saying I doubt they affect the over all length of the port.
As for the woofer, as many know, looks arnt everything. There are some VERY modest woofers out there capable of much more than "big potent" looking ones. Im talking about both sq and spl. scp53
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My bad.. I thought it was 10%... not 5%... oh well
Thanks for the pic btw. Ive never seen the inside of the thx ultra sub.
Do you really think the flare helps that much on this thx sub in terms
of affecting length? The flare seems very slight from the pic you
posted... imo
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bismarck, looks like reflections shouldnt be a big problem in that room. nice setup. btw, check you private messages.
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That all depends on the tuning freq., cabinet size, woofer,etc. The port needs to be designed to stay small enough to take up the least space but yet not go over an air velocity of 10% the speed of sound(which equals chuffing) at max spl through all the subs pass band. At least I think its 10%....Not sure if that helps ya...
scp53
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he has the klipsch sub12.
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Just fyi, $450 is no great deal(msrp500). Whoopppeeee, its %10 off. If your dead set for the rw10, why not wait till stores close them out when the NEW stuff comes in? Just a thought...
And also, the new sub12 will own or be on par the rw10 in most ways. I have heard both of them and there didnt seem to be much difference in sq(two different stores, different music, setup making it hard to tell). The biggest difference is that the sub12 will play MUCH louder. 7dB louder or so. Im not sure if you know this, but 7dB is a LOT of output difference. You could also look at as 7dB of head room= cleaner sound. Again, just another thought of mine... If you dont plan to run it hard,/listen loud the rw10 may be fine.
scp53
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concrete will also have a less tactile feeling... unless a riser of some sort is built for the furniture to de couple it from the floor.
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I personally think there is no drastic difference between down firing
and front firing. If possible, Id suggest demoing each in your house.
Then take back the one you like the least.
If you cant do this or dont want to, Id get the sub12. I think sq is
definetly on par with the rw12. The sub 12 also has 4dB more at 30hz
over the rw12(according to klipsch specs. klipsch test all sub models
the same I beleive...). Thats quite a bit. If nothing else, look at 4dB
as more head room= lower distortion.
scp53
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Too FUNNY! LOL. and I'd thought Id seen it all...
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sorry, umm, what model of sub do you have?
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wow, what lucky kids!
anyways, good luck with getting it fixed....
scp53
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Seriously, who stays in the 100dB range? [8-)]
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IMO, sometimes "backing off" is too late. Many times in movies(and
sometimes music), theres a HUGE dynamic peak in bass that can kill a
sub('small" OR "big" subs that is...) that is set too high. The sub may
be "perfect" for the whole movie/song EXCEPT a TIME or TWO, and then
you could have a problem.
In my case, my 15in is bottomless BUT if it was a "normal" 15in sub, I
know I would have bottomed it by now because of un expected
dynamics,etc.
Now as for clipping the sub, thats not near as serious if its very
brief. I guess clipping is probably a "kinder" way of letting you know
to turn it down. It won't kill a sub outright as much as bottoming can.
So basically, between my spl meter and watching the woofer(and
listening...), I know how far it can go. For
music, I like to keep the sub so it has a good 6dB or more of
head room over the "average" spl of the music. It probably should be
more. For HT, I set it for a LOT more head room depending on the movie.
So leave head room, have your filters(HP) set right on the sub/receiver/etc, be smart, and you shouldnt have a problem.
Just my 2 cents...
scp53
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The JBL 18" cinema bins usually have an F3 around 30Hz and a -10dB point around 20Hz measured in quarter space. When installed in a corner you can expect a 3dB boost in the low end and then with room gain you're looking at the speaker naturally being flat to around 20Hz. Though for many reasons I don't think relying on room gain sounds as natural as having a flat anechoic response (because the instrument on the recording would benefit from the same room gain if it were in your room, which requires you to have a flat anechoic response).
But the power handling is enough that you can reduce the max SPL and use EQ to extend the F3 down to 22Hz (in quarter space). So in 1/8th space (a corner) you're looking at easily achieving a flat response down to 22Hz @ 120dB continuous.
DrWho, do you really think they have enough excursion to do 120dB at 20hz? IMHO, fIguring the tuning is at 30-35, those woofers should be going crazy(bottoming) when near its max power. As with any ported subwoofer, not much under tuning and the (mechanical) power handling of the sub drops like a rock. Thats why Im wondering... scp53
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I am happy to see them use more displacement on the passive radiators
than the main driver... as it has always puzzled me why the original
RSW's PR seem to have the same diameter and excursion as the woofer
itself even though it is expected to dig deeper.
ROb
I agree with that. Usually, when a sub uses passives, they are much
higher excursion and even larger in diameter(either/or). I see many
subs built(Im a DIYer) that use a pair of 10's or 12's as passives or a
big 15in passive and the woofer it self may only be a 10incher.
THis time though, I think Klipsch did it much better/right. With dual
passives, Im sure its able to go much lower w/o having excursion
problems. Thats probably why the rsw's were tuned so "high" - they had
a smaller cabinet(relatively speaking) and had a SINGLE passive that
was 'average" excursion(or so I think)...
scp53
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FS: AA Atlas 15in DIY HT sub
in Home Theater
Posted
The sub driver is still for sale... but I see you're already planning on using a different AA driver for a DIY sub. Let us know how that project turns out. scp53