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Everything posted by schwock5

  1. Apologies if this has been asked / covered before (if so let me know the thread so i can read through!). It seems all the Klipsch surrounds (unless using a bookshelf) are wide dispersion. Are these ok for atmos? i know atmos specifies using direct channels since it's object based. the reason i'm asking is for my new basement build there may not be room to mount by current surrounds (RS-35) to the side wall as it would inhibit some walking space. I may instead have to use in-walls (at ear level) for the surrounds (and may put the RS-35 as the rear surrounds if my RF-35s are too space restrictive). For the in-wall i didn't know if i should go with the 5800 (direct) or the 5650S (which has wide dispersion tweeters). or any other reccomendations? if directs are supposed to be used all around then i may have to just sell my RS-35s and use the funds towards the in-walls and keep the RF-35 in the rear or replace with direct in-wall. but if they are ok perhaps i use them in the rear and sell the RF-35s. want to try and figure this out while my walls are open so i can build backer boxes.
  2. I still have my old RS-35s i use for surrounds (and my rear surrounds are my old RF-35s). But in my new theater space i may need to get another pair of true surrounds for the rears and abandon the floorstanders. I was curious, how do the new line of surrounds (ex 502) compare to the old RS-35 / RS-7s? My fronts are RF7 / RC7, so should i be looking to go all RS-7 for side and rear surround? or if i can't find any, can i replace both sets with 502s? Also, with atmos, since it's more object driven and more specific placement, do klipsch wide dispersion actually not work well for this and should direct bookshelves be used instead as surrounds?
  3. sort of related...how much of an improvement / "different" are the cornwall iv's? Since good deals can be had on the 3s now i've been potentially looking to add these into my system as well
  4. how have these not moved yet!
  5. plumber is coming today to move the hot water tank. this weekend i'll clean up the the items being stored in the room that will be in the theater and then on to framing! after the cleanup i'll take pics and provide layout info for feedback.
  6. Again thank you all! for the atmos i have 4 5800-ii in ceiling and i was going to probably just get the metal backing box that klipsch has for them as well to simplify. if using MLV or the roofing membrane do i just cut a square into that for these speakers to go or should i keep that area of the membrane loose and fitted over the enclosure so it's an uncut sheet? I'll provide pictures of the room and as soon as i can. so for your walls you just did insulation and 2 sheets of drywall? and the ceiling instead of drywall just used the Sonex? was your drywall 1/2 or 5/8? i've never actually used acoustic panels before since i was in an apartment, but now that i'll have a dedicated theater once i get everything setup i will be looking into it. if the sonex takes care of the ceiling then i'd just have to focus on the walls (floor will have a thick rug). i was looking fat matte black or the dark grey color, behind the TV / fronts even though i was going to paint dark i was thinking of hanging some heavy curtains to reduce reflections and provide a theater environment. Garcy, def will look into the book! i love to learn and this stuff just fascinates me so i'm always game to learn more especially now that i can take this to the next level. if i did use the metal backing enclosure for the in-ceiling would i attach that to the metal grid? if it was on the joist i'd have a 1-2 inch gap i think to the back of the ceiling tile ... again i have time before we hit this stage, need the plumber to move the hot water tank and then get framing in order and electrical / wires run. but seems like the sonex would cost as much / if not more than the other method as well. in a real world example what's the equivalent of a 20-25db drop? in a 12x14 room if playing at reference volume at the MLP what would you hear on the other side of the wall, above the ceiling?
  7. For the Sonex ceiling tiles, i assume these double as a sound absorption panel and i wouldn't need to have odd looking panels on my ceiling anymore as well? Are these effective if i also install 4 atmos in ceiling speakers?
  8. Thank you so much! i was just pricing out the ceiling as a test using MLV, isolation clips, had channels, double drywall, green glue, and rockwool and it was ABSURD! I've been watching a lot of you tube videos and seems most people recommend what i just stated, however, a lot do say that mineral wool only yields an extra 1-2 STC over pink fiberglass and isn't worth the added cost. i've been watching a lot of "acoustic fields" as well (seems like i'm getting a college education in sound theory! he actually straight up says rockwool and greenglue are BS. I think what i need to do is once framing is up get my 2 fronts up, play a test tone at reference volume, and upstairs and on the other sides of the walls measure the volume at the different frequencies to see what i actually need to target and how much. With all of the "literature" there doesn't really seem to be a real world guide of what specifically works best for which frequencies, and what combinations yields what results. I'd love to see a test of drywll 1/2 vs 5/8 vs 2 sheets vs greenglue with all combinations of insulation and MLV to see real world effect on DB drop at different frequencies and cost comparisons to see what yields to most efficient results! For the Sonex, howdoes the total cost of a ceiling compare to isolation clips/hat channel/double drywall w/green glue? I'll definitely look into all your recommendations! Once framing is done i'll run my tests and provide here for more feedback of what i need to target! The basement area i'm finishing is 12 x 14, however, the the front wall is under where the bay windows are, so the front wall is actually a trapezoid. I'm still playing with layout if i want my front "in the trapezoid" or the trapezoid as the back wall. 1 wall is concrete (with a few feet above ground with a window) concern on this wall is blocking out outside noise from the street. 2 of the walls are walls put up to split the basement in the duplex. i'm going to remove the drywall on my side as i assume there are already studs there and i don't want to encroach an extra 6 inches into my side by putting up extra studs if some already exists. the last wall is a wall we're putting up the split the basement on my side to the unfinished part. the ground is concrete. i think for now the question for framing is does the framing need any specific method to help improve the soundproofing? i've seen some where it's put on top of the subfloor to reduce vibration, so at this point looking for guidance on he framing first to do it right the first time. for the concrete wall can studs just be spaced slightly away from the concrete to isolate that wall? i don't want to use clips/channels on that wall since i do want to mount a TV there potentially.
  9. A lot of good info here, thanks guys! Besides the frame I think everything afterwards is going to be DIY. Dont need 20amp (let's be realistic here guys....we're running Klipsch). I'll probably have all the lights on one circuit and everything else on the other. The cieling was my. Biggest concern (not only keeping noise from escaping from stopping noise /footsteps from a over from coming down. Cant do much about the flooring on the first floor so it's really up to what I do at the joist. I'm guessing these are completely out of the question for cable management /routing? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078GH44BY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_tqH.DbXNGDZE7
  10. concrete wall is bare, i'd have to add the vapor barrier myself after the insulation and before the MLV. very old house but re-done in 2006. Basement wasn't really touched, It's a duplex for all intents and purposes, shared basement, but there's a wall up separating our halves. I'd be putting studs again on my side to separate the sound, or may take down my side of the wall to see what kind of studs are already there and just piggy back off those to save space. for the concrete wall, i think i forgot to mention i'd still do DD+GG, just forgo the sound isolation clip and hat channel, but didn't know how that would effect. i guess i could do a sound test after the MLV and see how that's working and if i needed a lot more. it does seem like any and all soundproofing materials/options are pretty pricey and add up VERY quick, i can see this being half the cost of the entire project! but i'd rather play it as safe as possible up front then have to try and go back and add more in later. When the framer does his thing, i've seen some articles about dampening pads above and below the frame as well, should I be looking into that as well? The kitchen is above the room, so dampening footsteps and preventing sound from going up is most important, there's also HVAC in the room i need to figure out if it will cause an issue. i'm looking to get an SVS PB200 Proo (was initially looking at the PB 3000, but the room is small and maybe with the 2000 i could go dual). While there's no concern about sound down, it was just concern about vibration of the concrete resonating the frame. there's just so many options and so much info out there.
  11. question on these, if installing with sound isolation clips, hat channel, and DD+GG layer would these not work? If these are drilled into the joist then wouldn't there be like a 3 inch gap between the bottom and the other side of the drywall? I think this would leave a gap where the hat channel is so the enclosure wouldn't fully contain the speaker. any advice? If these were installed lower than the joist by using additional wood then i think that renders the isolation clip/hat channel useless by creating a solid link.
  12. Thx! Can anyone advise about soundproofing? I think i'll be doing fiberglass insulation where i can, then mass loaded vinyl, sound clip, hat channel, and 2 5/8 gypsum with green glue. But my question is 1 of the walls i concrete (and the floor). is this necessary for the concrete wall? to maximize space (and if i want to mount a TV), on the concrete wall can it just be regular studs with MLV? or maybe space the studs out 1 inch from the concrete to create the gap? for the floor, if i use drycore and some vinyl wood cover, is that enough, or would vibrations go through the concrete to studs?
  13. want! also....want more that shirt at the 13 min mark!!!!!!!
  14. i could be interested, but won't know until i finish my theater build out. i'm in porter sq in somerville
  15. Starting my home theater man cave build out next week. I'm having a plumber move my hot water tank to get the most ideal space and then the HVAC guy in to reroute some duct work to maximize ceiling space and add a vent into the room. Before even getting to insulation and soundproofing after the framing, for the HVAC, any tips or advice? Looking to reduce sound transmission through the duct work to other rooms, minimize noise of the vent itself in the room, and just all around tips to be looking out for to do this right the first time. If i want to fully reduce noise leakage in and out and have an air tight door to the room do i also need an air return? how does that complicate things and what's needed then to avoid noise escaping / entering?
  16. Confirmed. The ".4 atmos signal" will be sent to those
  17. for the speaker switch set it to "surround". the "atmos" setting is only if using it in up-firing mode. atmos up firing uses a specific frequency range, so this toggles for that. if mounting them up high pointing down (as i did, set it to surrounds. then from your receiver when you do calibration, set the front to heights or in-ceiling (try both and see if you like one better than the other). this is how i used mine. i'm selling 4 if you're interested in any used as i'm moving to in-ceiling speakers.
  18. use surround (this will enable them to go further down frequency). Atmos mode limits it to upfiring atmos range. I had mine mounted as heights previously. i'm selling 4 if you're interested in any used since i'm moving to in-ceiling. i use a marantz, but denon should be the same, you'd have the option to set the front to heights or ceiling and the rears as upfiring atmos. when mounting the fronts try using both options to see if you like one better than the other after calibration. even though they're "heights" if you set them to in ceiling you may get better results.
  19. width 6.75 inches | depth 12/5 inches i'm selling 4 used if you're interested
  20. I have an old Denon 4308 receiver for sale. Thing was a powerhouse, but i've since upgraded to a Marantz for Atmos. Perfect working condition, i've been the sole owner and it's been used to just drive my Klipsch speakers. Local pickup for now in the Boston area. Comes with the original remotes, manual, and calibration mic. Not sure about price, but looking for best reasonable offer
  21. I'm working on designing my man cave and was looking to use in wall speakers for my surrounds to preserve some space. The side wall of the basement separates my unit from my neighbor. We're looking to sound dampen / sound proof as much as possible. Does installing an in-wall speaker negate soundproofing or what are some things to think about to preserve as much sound transfer as possible? Do klipsch in-walls? (looking at the 5800 for example) require anything specifically behind them to acoustically optimal? Looking for some ideas before finalizing any plans. It's a small room, so i was looking to remove my floor standing rears to preserve as much space as possible. I could mount my RP500sa where the wall meets the ceiling angled down, but i feel this will interfere with in-ceiling atmos i'm planning to do and bring too much of the base layer up high.
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