richinlr

With the caveat that sound can be a personal preference, I can tell you that I had a Yamaha 5790 running my home theater before I got my Denon 3808CI. I loved my Yamaha but the Denon simply blew it out of the water for sound. I really believe that the huge difference between receivers has more to do with set up and equalization than the differences in the amps themselves. Like others I run a separate high end power amp off the from pre-outs to power my La Scalas. This frees up the Denon to run only the surrounds and center channel. And it does sound better than running everything off the Denon, even with La Scalas as efficient as they are.

I had a Yamaha HTR 5790 for several years. It was my first surround sound receiver. I thought its equalization with YPAO was excellent and really enjoyed the movies I played. However, I just upgraded to a Denon AVR 3808CI and have been knocked out with the difference. The tonal balance is much better and the equalization is better. Surround sound is VERY much better. If you want the best of both worlds you won't do bad with a Denon.

Foam also changes the effective density of the air in the port or in the box. The primarily reason for doing this is that the density change results in a change in effective volume. I can't remember which way but I think adding foam or stuffing increases the effective volume. The speed of sound in foam or other stuffing is also different than in free air. This may be the primary reason the port is stuffed. Air movement in a port can exceed the speed of sound and stuffing can be used to change the speed of sound so that this is not a problem.

I have not yet heard any Klipsch earphones but I do have some Shure SE530 and I am very impressed with them. That being said the ear seal is the single most important part of making them sound right. I do not think that I could ever like them if I did not have the foam cushions. These are the only ones that seal in my ear. The SE530's are very neutral and the bass is solid. As he said Klipsch for speakers and Shure for headphones.

OK. I guess it is time to ask the question again... What is "Z" and Why should I... Hint: Z is an electrical engineering quantity and not simply a letter on the end of my "flagship" product. Sooooooooo....... Gotta a better explanation of Z?

Excellent! You should be a teacher! Thanks for an explanation that will carry me a long way. After I read it about a dozen times...

And varies with frequency.

Interesting! Do you have something concrete regarding TV connections? I have a soft buzz that I have thought is indicative of the need for new caps in my 20 year old amps and I have the preamp outs from my Denon home theater receiver going into my preamp.

The chrome layer is .001 in. or less. It is not uniform. Never-Dull usage can and does remove the chrome from the thin spots down to the nickel, producing the yellow look. I have chrome plating that is 36 years old on my car and has no yellow spots...

Never-Dull is a product best used to polish unplated metals such as brass or aluminum. It will scratch and even remove chrome plating. C'mon guys, chrome (and a bit of nickel) is what is added to stainless steel to make it stainless. If it's real chrome it shouldn't come off with Nevr-Dull.

Never-Dull is a product best used to polish unplated metals such as brass or aluminum. It will scratch and even remove chrome plating. If it removes chrome plating then the "chrome" plating might not be real chrome. Never had this problem with good quality chrome plate.

I agree. My La Scalas are toed in to intersect about 2 feet in front of my listening position. Note that in my square room this is the result of placing them as close to 45 degrees each and as close to the corners as practical (to simulate K-horns). Works pretty good for me. May not be perfect - I probably need to experiment more.

OK, let's talk. When I refer to classic cars I mean cars > 25 years old. I currently own a 1973 MGB which I have owned since 1978. Do you have a car that you have owned for 29 yrs? This car won 2nd in class at the New Orleans British Car show two years in a row. I have forgotten more about MG's than most people will ever know-no brag, just fact. I also own a 2006 BMW M Roadster of which approx. 6800 were made worldwide. I generally do not use many of the newer products because, frankly, I have been disappointed in so many of them it makes me tired. Now a few questions for you: 1. Tell me how surface hardness affects which product you use to polish anything. 2. What does a harder substance ALWAYS do to a softer substance? Knowing the answer to this question will enable you to polish ANYTHING. 3. What is the difference between DuPont No. 7 car polish and Dupont Rubbing compound and Maguire's liquid crystal polish? And why do the two DuPont products not make much since nowdays? Hint: It is NOT because they are too coarse - both of these products have a use on a certain kind of paint (what kind of paint?). 4. What makes Bon Ami unique for polishing glass and certain other finishes? 5. What kind of wax (type, not brand) always produces the best shine? I have been looking for better ways to polish stuff for about 40 yrs now. I have tried a whole lot of things and trust me, a buffer is NOT the answer. When you want a mirror finish it generally takes hand work. I don't have all the "credentials" you have. I am just an old mechanical engineer that uses just about every bit of knowledge I have gained over the years to try to figure out a way that works - I generally ignore hype and I am a perfectionist. Again, used properly, Nevr-Dull is a good product. There indeed are others but their use depends upon the material in question. I don't suppose you have ever used 1200 grit sandpaper followed by Maguire's Liquid Crystal to polish plastic? Takes a little work but the results are pretty awesome if you do it right. By the way, defining "collector car" is generally meaningless because the very definition depends on who you ask. My collector car may not be yours.

Nevr-dull IS the stuff to use. Non-abrasive and easy to clean up. I have used it on classic cars for years. !!!!! I really don't need this kind of reply from some self appointed expert that needs to beat his chest to convince me how expert he his. The only thing further comment I have is that Nevr-Dull is indeed effective when used properly. And it works on aluminum or chrome. Billet or whatever. Used properly means LIGHTLY and not ham fisted and then followed by a clean terry cloth rag to clean the chemical off.

Steely Dan, Gaucho Linda Ronstadt & Nelson Riddle, 'Round Midnight Branford Marsalis, Trio Jeepy (CD) Donald Fagen, The Nightfly