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Everything posted by scott0527
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Anybody who is just getting back into turntables should read this webpage a few times for most of what you'll ever need to know. Might seem a bit daunting at first, but really, after you've set up a turntable or two, it really isn't all that hard. http://www.audiophilia.com/features/cartridge_setup.htm Allignment guages are available all over the web. An inexpensive "favorite" of many including me is this one... http://www.turntablebasics.com/align.html
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someday I whish to upgrade to one of those but I came across these for what I believe was a good price, and It would give me a chance to check a couple different brands, giving that the other two are direct driven I probably wont put to much into them. Since my technics is all ready useable, If I can get a descent cart, plus belt for the marantz I will probably compare the two of them one plus with the marantz it all ready has a dust cover which is a plus over my technics. So if anyone wants to buy the pioneer or jvc let me know they are for sale just name your price, plus the cost of shipping let me know. thanks nick When you say "upgrade" what do you mean in terms of dollars. I have a very nice AR XB (same as an XA for the most part) that I would sell for $100.00 TD160's can be had for $150 to $200. I named those tables because they they are pretty good and yet very inexpensive. But then again, inexpensive to one person might be costly to another!
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I'm a big fan of belt drive tables over direct drives. And suspended (the platter and tonearm are suspended from the platen usually by some form of springs) turntables over non-suspended. I find belt drives easier to tweak and work on than direct drives. Suspeded tables sound more engagaing to me. By that I mean, if I start an album, no matter what other task I'm trying to do, I usually stop, sit and listen until the album is over. Sometimes when I cue up a non-suspened table, it will sound really good, but I find myself reading or working and before I know it the album is over and I missed it. So given that, of the tables you have, I have had the Marantz 6100. It was ok, but I would easily prefer an AR XA or Thorens 160 over it any day in regards to performance. I don't think the S shpaed tonearm on the Marantz is very good. Something about straight tonearms seem to perform better on these types of tables. Again, it is ok, but I wouldn't spend much time or money with it. Don't know anything about your other 3 tables.
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I still have a nice little mini box built by one of the forum members here. I can't remember who it was but they had built a bunch of them. I never did get around to using. Send me an email or PM if you're interested in it.
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The platter is heavy and the motor is pretty small. Tough to go from stop to 45rpm for that little motor. I wouldn't worry about the little bit of rumble if it's only two seconds worth. Even my Linn LP12 will give a little grunt when starting which per the manual is normal. I still have two TD160's and a TD 145. They are great bargains. Tough on foot fall skipping but if you've got a good solid foundation these tables are wonderful. I think the biggest difference between the 165 and 160 is the inner platter is composite vs aluminum. I think the aluminum inner platter is preferred among those that like to argue such things.
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this is what im talking about !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
scott0527 replied to joessportster's topic in 2-Channel Home Audio
Nice! I like to towels over the electronics to protect from the "spit up". -
I'm BLOWN AWAY! K-Horn / Dynaco discovery!!!
scott0527 replied to GWSmith's topic in 2-Channel Home Audio
Great photos and thread. Dynaco's are so much fun. So easy to work on with tons of parts and information available. I think they are the best way to get into vintage tube equipment. They sound sound amazing too! -
McIntosh MC240, MC30 etc Remanufactured Chassis
scott0527 replied to BE36's topic in 2-Channel Home Audio
Hey, long time no see. There is no doubt a true vintage collector wants EVERYTHING original. They aren't going to use it, they just want to collect it. If they do, it's going to sound average at best. Also likely to be very unreliable. In addition, most McIntosh Chrome pitted and rusted over the years so who wants to look at that? So the top value would be a pristine looking, totally original condition McIntosh amp. But forget about using it. Those are to be looked at and babied. Now as the auctions show, an average looking original condition MC240 didn't get as much as a properly rebuilt, pretty one. So unless you're sitting on a pristine cosmetic, totally original Mac amp, go ahead and rebuild the damn thing so you can use it and look at it without cringing. I wanted mine to look good AND work reliably. I used this MC240 for many years if only for an hour or two on the weekends. It worked everytime and sounded tremendous. Incidentally, Audio Classics rebuilt the electronics but I did the chassis transfer myself. Not an easy task to do nicely that's for sure. -
How to Make an Arm Board for a Turn Table
scott0527 replied to rplace's topic in 2-Channel Home Audio
Rich, To me, the Music Hall MMF 5 is not really a good table to be swapping arms on. Since the arm mounts right on the main plinth, there is no way to mount a different arm without drilling holes all over the plinth. I would say for the most part, no two arms use the same mounting location. Every arm should come with a mounting template that is specific to that arm. Usually the template uses the spindle as a locating point and then you mark and drill your tonearm mounting holes where the template shows. All these people swapping arms you read about are usually doing it on turntables that have an accomadation for a separate arm board. Think Thorens TD124 in the vintage realm or look at a Sota type for newer style. These are made to easily swap just the board where the tonearm mounts, allowing you enough room to vary where exactly where the tone arm is placed in relation to the platter spindle. Not to say you can't mount any arm you want on any turntable.... just that if you want to be "swapping" them in and out, that's going to be tough to do on an MMF5. -
Sorry, I don't. This guy might be able to sell you a copy. He had an original for $25.00 so maybe he would get you a copy for $5 or $10. http://www.myheathkits.com/ws/orig-fs-index-page.htm This website has general fun information about Heathkit. You may have already seen it. http://www.heathkit-museum.com/hifi/hvmaa-141.shtml
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Sweet, gotta love the "leatherette" fiinsh on the cabinet. I've had this pair for some time now. I'll probably be selling them soon. I need to thin some of this vintage out for a while.
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I need some opinions on a pair of 1987 Khorns.
scott0527 replied to Old-Tube-Sound's topic in 2-Channel Home Audio
I think the difference in horns and drivers is negligible. You'd probably want to rebuild or replace the crossovers in either a 80's or pre 80's pair. -
Lee, If you're still around, forgot to mention, make sure to use the "Test Inputs" and not the "Preamp" inputs. I forget how the legend goes but somebody at Marantz wanted the amp to filter something that was more common in the 50's than is now(rumble maybe?). Luckily engineers were able to get a compromise by adding the second set of "Test" inputs which do not have this filter. That's the worst explanation ever but if you do a little research you can probably find exact answer. It's been a couple of years since I've had my 8b out. Memory, not so good.
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Mint in the box could definitely grap $2000 or more on Ebay. Boy, what if it had rained on garbage day [:'(] Great find. One of the monsters from the heyday of Japanese audio recievers. I was lucky to buy one from a nice gentlemen who offered his here on the forum last year.
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I like to start with reasonably priced tubes just to get your self going. Later you can experiment with the higher priced vintage tubes if you feel the need. The difference isn't huge in my opinion. In my 8B I like: SED SVETL EL34. Make sure to get the ones with the winged "C" logo. Find good pairs of New Old Stock (NOS) RCA 6CG7 and 6GH8 for the other tubes. Even from a reputable tube soure like a TubeDepot.com, you can get all these tubes for around $200. Then, while you're enjoying your wonderful 8B you can research other tubes.
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Phil, Man that is nice. I've always liked that big old Rek-O-Kut knob switch. Good looking set up.
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How about the issue of how obnoxious people become once they own a pair of Jubiliees?[] As far as "heard nots", there were several "heards" with pretty average reviews of the jubs at the last Pilgrimage. But of course the room was bad or the crowd noise was too loud or something. No arguing that everybody who has bought them and many who've heard them certainly have given them rave reviews. But watching you continually harp about how no other speaker comes close is getting vomit enducing. You need to step back and take a hold of yourself. How does your life change when someone buys a pair of Jubs? Why do you care so much? It's the only thing you ever post about. Dude you "hover" on the boards just waiting for your next chance to insert a Jubilee post. It's funny and it's sad. Get a grip, if the whole world doesn't want your speakers, you will be ok. I thought there was a separate forum just for Jub owners? You must be superbad there!
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The 8 came before the 8B. It was rated at 30 wpc. The 8b replaced it soon after. It was rated at 35 wpc. I don't think there was a great deal of difference between them. You could switch them to triode mode by moving 4 resistors inside. Apparently, back in the late 50's early 60's, taking the bottom off your amp and whipping out the soldering iron to move a few leads was considered fairly normal. In triode mode you cut the output in half to 15 wpc or so. If you don't need a lot of watts, you might prefer this mode. If you want more power you can go the other way. I could never tell much difference in sound so I stuck with the regular mode. You can check with Craig at NOSValves who comes on this forum quite often. He'll do a hell of a job bringing that old amp up to snuff. He also has a hell of a backlog though so you might have to wait. There's a couple other places you can try if you can't wait for Craig. He might be a bit more caught up these days. www.nosvalves.com
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If weights keep the platter spinning level and the armboard is dipping everytime the weights role by, this would confirm to me that the spindle is not perpendicular. I would try to get the spindle straight. How about you install the inner platter, then try to push down on the high side while lifting up on the low side. Twisting, so to speak, the platter back to level. That would be the amatuer method (me). Or, if you know a good machinist, you could try to have him straighten it. Not that there's any machining involved but they might have the measuring tools needed to be sure they force the spindle perfectly 90 degrees.
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Phil you might have something there. From the looks of that spindle.... it does look like it is supposed to be riding on a ball bearing. It looks flat on top. Martin, how about a picture of the tip of the spindle, looking down on it. Linn spindles do not have this. They are machined to a cone shape at the tip. Edit... parts list as seen in the manual on page 8, lists a Ball Bearing Main Shaft. Better make sure you have a ball either captively held on the tip of the spindle or sitting in the bottom of the bearing well. http://www.vinylengine.com/library/ariston/rd-11s.shtml
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When you say "off by 1/64", do you mean spindle not perpendicular to the platter? That's what I'm envisioning. At this point, a picture of the underside of the inner platter showing the spindle would be helpful.
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Max mentioned the bearing well. Good to check that too. Make sure it doesn't look damaged, loose, banged around. Sounds like you might have a bent spindle. Even bent a little would be quite a wobble. Max also mention, if it is the spindle, it would tend to do it's swoop in the same place. If you could find a square(actually a ruler will do), you could put the square on the platen, next to the platter and spin the platter slowly by hand and measure it's height at various locations around the platter. Mark the low spots with a piece of tape or something. By the way, simple test to see if the suspension is close to being correct is to push straight down on the platter and release. Things should bounce generally up and down only for a second maybe two seconds at most. Shouldn't see much side to side bouncing. One more thing, if you're prone to dropping your turntable, always remove the stylus when working on it.
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Right. I'm pretty familiar with the Ariston, just wasn't sure about the platter. If it is the suspension causing the wobble, then the armboard(and tonearm) will also be wobbling along with the platter since they are all part of the same sub frame. Does the armboard seem to move or sway along with the platter? If not then it's got to be a bent spindle on the inner platter. You don't need a machinist, any right angle square held against the spindle and the inner platter should give you an idea if the spindle is bent. You did say you dropped this table? Or was that a joke?