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psg

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Posts posted by psg

  1.  

     

    Here is my Quarter pie theater, the pics have been in the Quarter Pie thread but I will put them here as well for those who don't frequent that sectiopn of the forum) The pics are of the front three, I have two more QPs for surround left/right, and KPT-100s for rear (though they are currently disconnected, they just can't really hand with the big boys).

     

    Very nice, but I doubt the KPT-100 can't manage.  (1) There's never that much surround content. (2) There are Cinema speakers after all, with 113 dB maximum output at 1m; that's only down 8 dB from Klipschorns. (3) I use them with Klipschorns and they manage for me!

     

    It is not a volume issue.It is a quality/clarity issue. They muddy the sound.

    They are nice little speakers and worked fine in my previous setup, but the QP setup is really amazing.

     

     

    Ok then.  Did you do the crossover mod to remove the X-Curve?

  2. If you go Heritage, invest in a quality sub (or two) and then buy Heresies for the other 5 channels. Since your content is mostly movies, there's no point in spending money on speakers that can dig deep when you're just going to cross them over at 80hz to the sub anyways.

     

    La Scalas don't dig deep, but they do 80 Hz and above very well!  Better than the Heresy!

     

    What would you use as center? surrounds?

     

    Three LS II in the front would be awesome.

    • Like 6
  3. Here is my Quarter pie theater, the pics have been in the Quarter Pie thread but I will put them here as well for those who don't frequent that sectiopn of the forum) The pics are of the front three, I have two more QPs for surround left/right, and KPT-100s for rear (though they are currently disconnected, they just can't really hand with the big boys).

     

    Very nice, but I doubt the KPT-100 can't manage.  (1) There's never that much surround content. (2) There are Cinema speakers after all, with 113 dB maximum output at 1m; that's only down 8 dB from Klipschorns. (3) I use them with Klipschorns and they manage for me!

  4.  

    Looks good but man those mains need to come out from the wall about a foot. They are gonna suffocate in there.

    I agree but then they are oddy half way in the room. I run the fronts set as large and can feel tons of air pushing out the ports. I have moved them 18" from the wall and they do sound better. I have heard from someone at Klipsch that plugging the ports will help tremendously.

     

     

    6 to 8 inches might be enough?

    Also, if it were me... I'd lower the TV and center speaker a bit.  They seem high to me.  The speaker could cover  part of the hole in the wall without any real downside.

    Nice seats! I'd try moving them forward about a foot.  Too close to the back wall might not be optimal and it looks like you have a little space to give.

  5. Picking the first track, defining dynamic range as peak minus rms average:

     

    SACD 11.88 dB

    SACD CD hydid layer: 9.4 dB

    1985 CD version: 21.96 dB

     

    No contest... 1985 CD version is much better.  I wonder why the SACD is so bad! Peaking at 0 dB is a good thing in that the noise floor is decreased as much as possible.

     

    I don't know how http://www.dynamicrange.de define dynamic range but the script  http://dr14tmeter.scienceontheweb.net returns 20 for my CD track of the same (likely 1985 version as well)

     

     

    Interesting.  Based on the below, I would suggest that the best mastering exists on the SACD DSF files

     

    Secondly, the 2.0 from the SACD, though there has obviously been some sort of manipulation such that the peak on all tracks is exactly the same at -0.1

     

    The worst mastering exists on your 1985 CD, with several tracks peaking at 0

    Analyzed: Dire Straits / Brothers In Arms (20th Anniversary Edition) [sACD]
    DR         Peak         RMS     Duration Track

    DR10      -3.70 dB   -15.58 dB      5:13 01-So Far Away
    Analyzed: Dire Straits / Brothers In Arms (20th Anniversary Edition - SACD CD LAYER)
    DR8       -0.10 dB    -9.50 dB      5:12 01-So Far Away

    Here are the numbers from the 1985 CD version:

    DR20       0.00 dB   -21.95 dB      5:13 01-So Far Away
     

     

  6. Does anyone know whether the Onkyo TX-NR 737 would be suitable to run this setup in 5.1 or 7.1 if I get the extra 2 speakers for the sides.

     

     

    Note that the two extra speakers going from 5.1 to 7.1 go to the rear.  In a 5.1 system, the surrounds should be on your sides, not your rear.

  7.  

     

    Got to go HDMI. Night and day different that component/optical

     

    Help me here.

     

    Are we talking audibly better for BD movies, SACD's, DVDA's, or CD's?  I know HDMI can pass high resolution audio and optical and digital coax can't but for redbook CD's, is there a noticeable difference?

     

    Bill 

     

     

    For CDs, the biggest question is whether you have a higher quality CD player or receiver as far as doing the DAC decoding as well as if your CD player has a digital out.

     

    But then you see the occasional person using analog output from the CD (because it's better) into an AVR with speakers set to small. :lol:

  8. Wait a minute . . . "End Game?" Uh . . . forget that. If the right deal comes along for two more pair of Heresies, another pair of La Scalas, Belles, or Klipschorns, I m on the road again!

    Edit for PS: Considering 50% of your use would be for HT video, I would recommend an RF7 setup . . . the Reference series is designed for HT and is excellent for multichannel Blue Ray music videos and is a strong performer for 2 channel music too. While an excellent speaker which can be adapted for HT viewing, the Chorus IIs were designed for exemplary 2 channel listening.

     

    You should reconsider your end game.  The Heresy, La Scala, Belle and Klipschorn were not designed for HT, but for exemplary 2 channel listening. They are no good for HT.  :P

    • Like 1
  9. Good personal experience.  Thx for sharing.  I too have always read that Component is almost as good as HDMI (1080i vs 1080p).  Maybe progressive vs interlaced makes a difference?  Glad to hear you are now enjoying the full potential from your display.

     

    The Optik TV (basically fiber-optic delivery) decoder sends out either 720p or 1080i, which was why i didn't think component would make a difference.  I guess it's the extra D/A and A/D steps involved that degraded the image.

    Audio was run over toslink.

  10. Doesn't matter, right?

    I just learn the hard way that it does.

     

    I used to feed two TVs with one Sat decoder, feeding one far away using the HDMI output of the decoder and the other using the component output (to the AVR and then a 50-inch 720p plasma in my HT room).  When I upgraded to Optik TV a while back, each TV now had its own decoder but I didn't bother to swap in a HDMI cable in the HT room and kept using the component cable to my AVR (and then HDMI to the TV).  I was never happy with the blacks on that TV.

     

    Jump to this week when I get my fancy new Samung 60F8500 plasma.  The picture is much better, but even after I calibrate black levels (brightness set to factory 45) I am loosing a lot of details in crushed blacks watching TV.  Anything dark is black.  I have to crank up brightness to 65 to make up some of the detail.  But the picture is perfect on Blurays.  So I figure it must be a setting on the Optik TV decoder... then it hits me that it is getting an analog signal from my component connection and reconverting it to digital to send over HDMI to the TV!  I swap in an HDMI cable between the TV decoder and the AVR and BAM!  The picture is now perfect with brightness set to 45!  Lots of dark detail!

     

    So the black levels weren't so bad on my old TV!  I have been giving it a handicap for years using component instead of HDMI!  Years lost!

    • Like 1
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