RayoVac

Another thing........when I blocked the ports and tuned the subs to 16hz......the way that the deep bass pressurizes the room is incredible, especially for movies. Don't make the same mistake I made at first. Turn the subs crossover all the way up or disable it if it has the option and use the receiver to set the crossover point. At first, I was setting the sub the same as the receiver and found out that was a no no. Doing so was restricting the output of the sub. After correcting this and tuning the subs to 16hz I've been amazed a what the SVS's are capable of. SWL. Thanks for the info. I will have to look, I think I can turn off the sub X-over and use the settings in my pre-amp. Your comments are intresting... I will block a port tonight and set it to 16hz and see how she feels. Rayo

Obviously a question for SVS Cylinder owners other there. I have a PC+ 20-39 with 12.3 upgrade, and have been wondering about improvments that may or may not be percieved by blocking one of the ports and setting it down to 16hz? I know... someone will post "Try it and see how it sounds". [:^)] I am hoping some folks have tried it and might have some feedback on results. I mainly use my system for HT so the impact during movies is important. My conern with the blocking would be a lowered SPL. O.K. so I may be to lazy or not brave enought to try it... so if you have done it... is it worth screwing with? Or should I just leave it alone? Also while we are talking cylinders... anyone have a PC13 Ultra? Thoughts, Comments? I have been considering an upgrade.... Rayo

I have RB-75s with an RC-7 in the front. RS-7s in the rear. I now have a seven channel amp and was thinking about adding some back surrounds and was looking at In-Walls. Can anyone make a recommendation for the "Best" In-Wall that would match my current speakers? I was thinking the r-5800-ws might be what I want, confirm? Thanks in advance, Rayo

I will be selling my B&K AV125.5 S1. I have a Emotiva MPS-1 on order (back order) should be here Mid July (hopefully). The AV125.5 is very similarly spec'd to the 1075 (5 Channels - 125w into 8ohms, 185w into 4 ohms). It is in MINT condition, I have the original box, I purchased it new. Let me know if you have any interest.

I really like the look of your Bello rack. I would not worry about the glass... it is stronger then people think. The black with silver looks like it was made for your Rotel gear! [] I really wanted to get a Bello rack as well but just could not find one "just right" so I ended up getting a Sanus Rack, TV Stand and speaker stands for my RB-75s. HiJacking your thread a bit... here is a picture:

Another vote for NO hiss. I have RB-75s, RS-7s and RC-7 used to run them off a Yamaha 5790, Now the Yammi Pre/Pros and a B&K 125.5 provides the power. Have never had Hiss or Hum problems.

Here is a slight update to mine, added a B&K 125.5 and the Xbox 360.

Thanks for all the info everyone. I bit the bullet and bough a B&K 125.5. I know ultimately I will probably want a 200.5 or 200.7 but they are out of my budget for now. I figure this is a good start and I can always use it for a second zone etc. down the road or just sell it as they seem to hold their value well. I was really debating Outlaws, Rotels and Sunfire... but I had to buy "unheard"... out of all the comments I could find it seemed there were very few negatives with the B&K gear. I figure I bought my SVS site unseen.... how bad can this move be? LOL So now my bigger problem... I really like that Reference 50 Processor... hehehehehehe... I need to find a money tree! Once I get it all setup and give it a listen, I will post some opinions on how it compares to the Yamaha 5790s amp. Thanks again, Rayo

Thanks Jeremy, I was pretty frustrated when I brought the new RC-7 home to find it was literally an 1/8 inch to tall to fit on the shelf where my RC-35 sat. And if I had found a way to jamb it in there... there would be no room to tilt it up toward the listener. My wife was not real excited about one of those TV mount arms hanging on the wall behind... not to mention my stud spacing would not have allowed exact center placement above the TV. I started looking at the back of the Sony and saw there were some molded in little nubs on the back slope. I used those in my design as they actually carry the load of the back legs instead of just having the legs glued or double sticky taped to that slope. Then I contoured the bottom edge of the shelf over the bezel of the TV... giving me a VERY secure lock on things. The only way it will move is if the TV collapses!!! The shelf is Oak and is assembled with Glue and brads, clamped overnight and painted with a matt black spray.

Currently I have Pink Lemonade and Orange Creme. The orange is by far my favorite.

I currently have a Yamaha 5790 that I purchased about a year ago. I have RB-75s, RC-7, RS-7s and run a SVS PC+ 20-39. The HT area of my room is approximately 20x30. I have been contemplating an Amp to use with the 5790... and have been looking at trying to find a used B&K AV 125.5. My question is this: Given the power of the Yammi and my setup... do you feel there will be a discernible difference to be realized using the B&K either for LCR and letting the Yammi run the surrounds or using it for all channels? The system is 98% HT, and I like to FEEL and hear my movies, so yes... I like it loud. When I do listen to music on this system it is at reference levels... the Yammi gets REAL hot and seems a bit anemic. I guess I am wondering if you do think the B&K AV 125.5 would be a good move... will it be enough over what the Yammi does for me? Or should I be looking at an amp pushing 200wpc @ 8ohms? Realistically I think I can swing a B&K AV 125.5 if I find the right deal on a used one... something bigger might be a stretch. I guess my other thought would be to trade up to a Denon 4306 or the new Pioneer Elite VSX-74TXI. I am leaning towards trying to get into separates though. Any comments or opinions would be appreciated.

I posted pictures in this thread almost a year ago... the system has changed a bit. I now run RB-75s on Sanus stands in the front, with an RC-7 and RS-7s in the rear. Note the custom center stand I built for the RC-7. Made out of Oak and painted to match the RC-7. The new center would not fit on the shelf below the TV where my RC-35 used to sit.

I knew I should have hung on to my RC-35 for ya!!!!

Watched it Saturday night. Lots of good sound.. but, was it just me or did anyone else notice the opening scenes as they bombarded the Iron ship... seemed like the sound was not very clean... lots of distortion in the explosions. I listened carefully through the rest of the movie... where yes, they blew up lots of stuff... and did not hear similar distortion again. I am going to watch it again and listen more carefully to the open scene to see if maybe I was just hearing the popcorn crunching in my ears.

Around here... you NEVER see a beam supported on block wall like that. The proper way if this is truly a loading bearing object and not just a an add-on to quite bouncing floors... is to have a support column poured all the way down to the footer!!!! The beam rests on that. The alternative is a floor level poured support (again joining the footer) that has a steel jack post that then supports the beam. And of course there would be posts every 6-8 feet or specified by the beam support load specs. I would not ***** about the busted up block... more importantly what is the purpose of the beam... if carrying the load for walls supporting a second story or other HEAVY objects... if it rests on your 4" poured crawl space floor... you are gonna have some problems. Call your local building inspector and have him review the intended purpose and install of the beam. Also find out who makes the beam and what its load carrying specs and support needs are. Good Luck!!!