boom3

Better yet, make a pile of money with crypto/bitcoin/NFT/ponzi de jure and hire musicians to play your faves on request. No hardware issues, although you may find it hard to fit the entire band in your car for road trips.

"So grendel, how do you adjust the line voltage from your outlet to your amp? 120 volts is fine for me, not 128 or whatever." Morbius, you do know that what your tubes see is the B+ output from the power supply and the bias, right? They don't see the line voltage. If you want to really control and protect your amp, get a qualified tech to put pots and meters in the B+ and bias lines for precise adjustments of those voltages, and stop worrying about line voltage (unless you live in TX, LOL). Especially this summer, our line voltages from the grid will droop with load, not go beyond 120. I might add that I have seen exactly one confirmed case of "dirty power" affecting equipment, and that was in a communications lab which got its power from the same substation as a major shipyard with cranes, welders, converters and servomotors galore. IIRC, they finally put in a dedicated line from the power plant which cured the problem.

Save your money! This is actually a non-problem. The power company supplies a nominal voltage which means it can fluctuate depending upon load. In North America, the accepted or usual range is 105-125 V. You will share that pole transformer with one, two or three other households. Depending on load, your voltage measured at the wall outlet will vary in the range I just quoted you. No manufacturer, and that includes HH Scott, designs their products for one and only one supply voltage. Unless your power company has a real brownout (less than 105V) you won't hear any difference. If you feel you just must have a "power conditioner" read Audio Science Review for their tests of those things.

I know what you're talking about but the forum limits each attachment to 2 megs

wish I could post this in higher res, it would be easier to see the mirror tiles and other sparkly stuff.

Wishing you luck,. My HS always had old maids as librarians, how they reproduced was always a mystery.

The building in the background is the New Orleans Center for Creative Arts (NOCCA)

I think I know the genesis of this idea. In the Rolling Stone interview, ("I have Been to the City Of Hope and My Ears Are Wide Open" ) PWK is mentioned as having a notebook that he wrote in code. One other person (Woody? I think this was pre-Jim Hunter) said he could read the code. I don't have the article right now, but I seem to recall it was also a record of PWK's exercise routine, as well as his notes on speakers. Now, what happened to that notebook? I don't recall any mention of it being published.

Reminds me of the Pioneer film tweeters of the 70s

I appreciate everyone's advice on this, but the LED on tape option is so much simpler. Just a very odd circumstance that I never encountered in all these decades.

would that I could. My Tektronix scope went back its owner years ago after an extended loan. I guess I should buy a scope plug in for my Mac or PC. I just haven't had a need to look at waveforms in a long time.

I wish it was that simple, Peter. I tried a 4.5 VDC supply, and the LED string will not light. The string will only light when connected to the box that came with it. As I said, the box has multiple modes, which are controlled by the circuit board which is outputting either pulsating DC or an AC waveform. These strings are the "beads on wire" type, and using the "LEDs on tape" type will be easier to mount under the bookshelf lips. But my investment (very small) is not for naught; I can use these in costumes as I have in past.

Yep, it's AC. Confirmed with the frequency counter in my Fluke DMM, and also hooked the box up to a speaker and got some very interesting tones straight out British sci-fi sound effects. The 4 AAs feed a small circuit board that allows 8 effects and off. It is possible that what the DMM thinks is AC is pulsating DC. In certain modes, the speaker cone shows some deflections like it is receiving DC. Don't have a scope anymore so I can't see the waveforms. After rummaging around in our pile of tech stuff, we found a reel of white LED strip and we also have some controllers made just for those, so that's the path I'm taking. The alternative would be to have the DC power supply feeding the battery terminals of each controller box and then each box controlling one string. Thanks Dave!

Hi, Not sure where this topic goes but... I need a power supply that converts 110 VAC to 4.5 VAC. I am trying to power strings of LEDs I got on clearance from World Market, and the battery box (4 AA cells) has 9 functions. Short story, I hooked my trusty Fluke to the output of the box and it is putting out 4.5 VAC at 450 Hz ! My DC power supply is fine, but it wasn't lighting up the string; the battery box was, so I find the box is putting out AC. I think a 60 Hz frequency would be fine, the oscillator in the box is putting out 450 Hz, I would think so as to use small components. I may just give up and use regular 12 V LED strings for this project (bookshelf lighting). Looked at Parts Express and Allied, no joy. 4.5 v is an oddball. Open to suggestions!

yes from where I was standing to the trees opposite is about 70 feet. The entire buffer area is about 1/4 mile in length

wetlands

Riot, with his predecessors' pictures reflected in the picture frame glass. Taken at 5x digital zoom with the iPhone so not the greatest pic.

oh dear God, No!

From the mechanical aspect, horn drivers should not age as fast as direct radiators, since a horn driver is contained within its own enclosure and the horn. For example, the woofer of a bass horn is going to live a lot longer (barring abuse) than if it was a direct radiator. The Klipsch Heritage line is so efficient that I think it is rare for any of the woofers to fail from normal use. Having said that, suspensions can dry out with age and raise the Fs, but probably not to degree that's noticeable. In the 50s it was common practice to rotate the woofers, especially 12 inch and larger units, every so ofter to prevent "cone sag." I think with modern materials this should no longer be an issue.

When I built my Klipsch-derived center, Bob Crites recommended some US-made GE PIO run caps and I've been happy with them. When I re-capped my Corns, I used WIMAs, and also happy with them.

You're correct about the Aerovox. When I updated the caps in my Corn II networks, I was appalled by the crudity of construction.

Those who restore old radios often cut the bases of the chassis-mounted cap cans off with a Dremel, remove the old guts, and "re-stuff" with new caps.Then the base is soldered on, the can is mounted back to the chassis, and the radio's appearance is not altered. I see no reason to do this with old crossovers. PWK went to film types when they were available .

Mom Dad and Junior