nola

Hello folks: I found this now ancient thread and I think it should be revived. So long as there are no copyright infringements, the only issues are in scanning and distribution. A good all in one (AIO) scanner for inkjets or laser printers can be used. Cost $50-300, on sale. After Hurricane Katrina, I scanned most of my important documents. I agree with the scanning advice posted earlier. However color scanning does take longer. Perhaps you could do 10-20 pages per day. If PWK wrote on both the front and back of pages, experiment with white, black, grey, brown, etc paper at the other side of the letters to reduce bleed through from the opposite side while scanning. Distribution could be via a series of pdf or equivalent files, limited to 10 MB max per set. Perhaps the papers could be FedEx'd to Indy and after scanning, returned to you. Let the Klipsch folks scan them and then let Klipsch make them available. Maybe as a History and Technical Data link at the Forums. They had an unofficial historian a few years ago, Jim? Any possible copyright issues could also be addressed in this way.

While looking at a link to:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Klipsch_Audio_TechnologiesI just found out about the sale to Audiovox. Wow..... First, let me compliment the many employees at Klipsch who have ALWAYS assisted us. I just completed my first big Klipsch equipment buying road trip in a long time. The lady in Houston with the single Belle that I bought had so many nice things to say about the folks that called her back from Klipsch. Real customer service on a product line that very few people buy new anymore. Meaning, the company likely loses some money on folks like us. Yet, they maintain the server for Forums like this and there is always someone around at Indy (and Hope) to help us out. At a time when the economy is in the hole and sales must be poor, we can only compliment management. Yup, the pilgrimage seems a bit messed up this year, but how many companies actually do anything like this? (Very few) How and why Fred Klipsch put up with all of our communal whining is beyond me (based on when I was active on the Forums and did my Indy and Hope trips around 2009 +/-). But he did put with us. I have no clue as to what has happened at Klipsch in last 3-4 years. I hope Audiovox has been good to folks and the former Klipsch company. Let's face it, the company has to make a product that folks want to buy and at a price folks will pay. Beyond local "audioheads" no-one wants the old large footprint and pricey (as new) Heritage line, when they think a 12" sub and satellites for under $500-1000 are good enough. I tried for years to get younger friends to attend our local audio meetings with no luck at all. The market has changed...maybe we have not. I get emails about some of the new products. Clearly there is no marketing to compete with Bose and BeatsAudio, but remember folks, that is where the market and the money lies these days (please feel free to correct me if I am incorrect). PWK never made stuff for the masses, but maybe that time has come, Be realistic, bills have to be paid. My 2 cents.... (repost)

While looking at a link to:http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Klipsch_Audio_TechnologiesI just found out about the sale to Audiovox. Wow..... First, let me compliment the many employees at Klipsch who have ALWAYS assisted us. I just completed my first big Klipsch equipment buying road trip in a long time. The lady in Houston with the single Belle that I bought had so many nice things to say about the folks that called her back from Klipsch. Real customer service on a product line that very few people buy new anymore. Meaning, the company likely loses some money on folks like us. Yet, they maintain the server for Forums like this and there is always someone around at Indy (and Hope) to help us out. At a time when the economy is in the hole and sales must be poor, we can only compliment management. Yup, the pilgrimage seems a bit messed up this year, but how many companies actually do anything like this? (Very few) How and why Fred Klipsch put up with all of our communal whining is beyond me (based on when I was active on the Forums and did my Indy and Hope trips around 2009 +/-). But he did put with us. I have no clue as to what has happened at Klipsch in last 3-4 years. I hope Audiovox has been good to folks and the former Klipsch company. Let's face it, the company has to make a product that folks want to buy and at a price folks will pay. Beyond local "audioheads" no-one wants the old large footprint and pricey (as new) Heritage line, when they think a 12" sub and satellites for under $500-1000 are good enough. I tried for years to get younger friends to attend our local audio meetings with no luck at all. The market has changed...maybe we have not. I get emails about some of the new products. Clearly there is no marketing to compete with Bose and BeatsAudio, but remember folks, that is where the market and the money lies these days (please feel free to correct me if I am incorrect). PWK never made stuff for the masses, but maybe that time has come, Be realistic, bills have to be paid. My 2 cents....

I own lots of mid 70s gear. Replacing the caps to get rid of the spam can caps should be done. However, in the past I have bought gear with the caps already replaced (though not realized by the seller)! So you need to be sure about whether or not your crossovers are truly originals or if someone already modded them. Soldering is easily learned, even if your first foray is messy. You will likely need to have some nimble fingers. If you have 2 left thumbs, enlist a friend to so this. As for the sub, I held back on getting subs until after Hurricane Katrina. I have K-horns and LaScala's. So I thought subs would be a waste of $$. Although Barry White's vinyl tracks might have been laid down by the audio engineer in the 1970s for 2 channel stereo, there is no doubt that with my subs, babies can be made. The difference is night and day. I actually was shocked by it and I am therefore a firm believer in subs. Mind you, I have dual 18" pro audio subs, and I love my very bass heavy system. You need to match the subs to the size of your space (in cubic feet). Some rooms are hard, some are acoustically soft. So figuring out your true needs can be a tricky part. If you attach bass shakers to your furniture, you might be able to reduce your sub needs too. (My main room is about 9000 cu ft and I can use up to 6 18" drivers in 4 different subs. However, I usually only run 1 dual cab sub and I do not have bass shakers). I also have a Parts Express sub from when I had a small separate apt. It is not only the size of the sub, but to me and more importantly, the quality of the bass from the sub that is important. Otherwise the sub will earn the nickname, Mr Chuffy, from the horrible vibes. As always with this gear, used is cheaper. You can always buy used Prof Audio (PA) gear. However, the sub might not meet the wife approval test. My Behringer single 18" subs are certainly not pretty, but they were inexpensive. I added separate sub amps from Parts Express some time later when the amps went on sale. You can drape such subs over with thin cloth to make them more appealing too. Just my 2 cents....

Hello: I hope this is the correct Forum for this post. Considering buying active crossovers to save building lots of passive xovers to test out the items below and to test out different xover points easily. I have mid - late 1970s Khorns and LaScalas. I have AA networks with Crites Sonicaps. I also have 1 set of homemade ALK Universals, bought as a kit from Mr K in 2009. To test out: I have 1 set of wooden horns, bought 2nd hand in ?2009-2010, 1" throat , driven by typical Klipsch mid range drivers, same as attached to the stock K400 squawkers. When I tested these out back in 2010, I noted different tonal qualities vs the stock metal horns, but I could not say 1 was truly better than the other. (My hearing, my room, my rig). My goal - reproduce the original live sound, LOL. I could never figure out which was closer to what I thought the live performance would have been like. Living in New Orleans I can listen to the real deal all the time, so I spend very little time on my main room system now. I have 1 set of Altec 511Bs with Altec 902-8T drivers. I am aware that the xover point for the K33 in the KH should be 350-400ish HZ, maybe a bit higher for the LS at 400+ish Hz. Altecs like to be over 500 HZ. So yup, we may have a problem here. I have 3 MR94B Altec MantaRays with 3 Altec 291 drivers - but at 16, not 8 ohms. Ditto for the xover point from the K33 woofer driver. I may buy replacement tweeters, eg Beyma CP25s as well, due to blown LaScala tweeter (vs new diapragms). In trying to figure out whether to try 2 way (no separate tweeter) vs 3 way setups (with separate tweeter) with the Altecs, might it be worthwhile to get an Active crossover? In the past the Electrovoice EV DX38 seemed popular, but it is no longer made. They also sold for about $1000.00 new, often over $500 used. dbx, Rane, and Behringer also have similar sounding products listed at websites like Musiciansfriend, Sweetwater, Guitarcenter, etc. I would prefer not to spend $1k on an active xover. Many of the other brands have devices in the $100-400 range, There was a also a post on the MiniDSP, at lower cost. Marchand Electronics and Elliott Sound (http://sound.westhost.com/project09.htm) also have devices. I have lots of amps, so even triamping would not be an issue for me. If I mess with something to replace the K77s, like the Beymas or Crites CP125, Fostex, etc, but keep the K400s or use the wooden horns (but not the Altecs) should I alter my existing xovers somehow? I know Bob Crites has the A 4500 - so long as the K77 is replaced. Maybe the ALK Uni's or existing AAs could be "adjusted" too, perhaps by swapping a capacitor or 2, moving a transformer tap, etc, to save the cost buying 2 new xovers. Or would having a good quality active or digital xover be the simple and easy answer for my "experiments"? If so, which one should I get? Advice appreciated. I have separately posted Altec/Klipsch crossover point Qs in this Technical Forum. From NOLA with love.

I will also re-post the original thread to the technical Q area, as that might be more appropriate. Apologies to the moderator if this was not the correct place to post these Qs.

Rec Crossover Freq for Altec 511b/902-8T and Klipsch BassBin Hello: I have Klipsch Klipschorns and LaScalas from the 1975-1979 era. If I want to mate the bass bins from Klipsch and use Altec horns and drivers, what crossover frequency should be used? Mind you, the Klipsch KH bass bin is reportedly weak above 350 Hz and the LS bass bin may peter out above 400-450 Hz, one person said it was good to 600+ Hz. Does anyone know of a link to the frequency response curves of the 511B or the 902-8T? Can these run to at least 10K Hz? As I am in my 50s, I do not think I would have much HF hearing left above 10K Hz. So could I use the K33 Klipsch woofer driver with the Altec combo in a 2 way set up? Would a gentle slope on an active crossover be recommended? (Any reccs for an active or digital xover appreciated, but MiniDSP from Hong Kong sounds good so far) I will do a separate post on the same theme re MR94B Altec MantaRays with Altec 291 drivers - but at 16, not 8 ohms. Thanks from New Orleans

Rec Xover Freq for Altec MR94B/291 16ohm and Klipsch BassBin Rec Crossover Freq for MR94B Altec MantaRays with Altec 291 drivers - but at 16, not 8 ohms and Klipsch BassBin Hello: I have Klipsch Klipschorns and LaScalas from the 1975-1979 era. If I want to mate the bass bins from Klipsch and use Altec horns and drivers, what crossover frequency should be used? Mind you, the Klipsch KH bass bin is reportedly weak above 350 Hz and the LS bass bin may peter out above 400-450 Hz, one person said it was good to 600+ Hz. Does anyone know of a link to the frequency response curves of the MR94B or the 291 drivers at 16 ohms? Can these run to at least 10K Hz? As I am in my 50s, I do not think I would have much HF hearing left above 10K Hz. So could I use the K33 Klipsch woofer driver with the Altec combo in a 2 way set up? Would a gentle slope on an active crossover be recommended? (Any reccs for an active or digital xover appreciated, but MiniDSP from Hong Kong sounds good so far) I will do a separate post on the same theme re Altec 511b/902-8Ts Thanks from New Orleans

Thanx folks. But which specific units to look at? Marchand is in the US. dbx, Rane, Behringer, etc are also represented in the US. Elliott Audio is in Ozzie. MiniDSP is in Hong Kong. ElectroVoice does not make the EV DX38 anymore. I have a mic from my Velodyne SMS 1. But I do not think it is calibrated, if that truly matters. For a calibrated mic, Parts Express had one below $50. (Years ago, I think I used some free test tone software and my Radio Shack SPL meter- RCAd into my laptop to test out the bedroom. I had some correction values for the SPL, mostly for low frequencies. I then used the limited equalizer on the Onkyo 805 to do some modest adjustments. In the end, I got some improvement and never used the SMS1 system again, as I thought it sucked out too much bass from my RSW 15.) Balanced USB hub will cost about $100 - someplace I read that this was needed as part of a ?MiniDSP set up. For the subs, both my Outlaw Audio 990 Preamp/Processor and Onkyo 805s can set a subwoofer cut off value (Hz) and my sub amps can do that too. So do I need to do this as part of my electronic / digital / active crossover? I think the miniDSP can also time align the woofer, mid and tweeter. I do not know if the other products can do that. However, I think both of my receivers can time align an entire speaker, per distance from the listener, though I doubt they can do the tweeter vs woofer, etc. I do not know if I will end up with a 2 way or a 3 system, beyond the subs. So I will need to be able to at least test for 3 way. I also read somewhere (sorry, forgot the links) that the impedance / voltage wanted by the MiniDSP might not match either the preamp output of a stereo receiver possibly not match that needed by an amp - SS or tube. So these, if true, would be major issues. I have 2 MC240 PP tube amps - but with different tubes in each, though they sound similar. I have an Outlaw Audio 750 SS amp. 5 channels. Also 3 different Adcom SS amps, all c. 1985, I think. So triamping is do-able, even if a bit of a pain, due to all things to turn on and off, esp if a sequence is needed. Others have also mentioned the need to protect the tweeter (more the mid range). What are blocking caps? Are they like the Zener diode on the AA crossovers? Etc. What do I use as the output source for the active crossover? Is it the L/R set of RCA plugs from the Tape out or VCR out portion of the processor / receiver? 990 has 8 xlr ouputs incl L and R.

Hello: Not certain if this is the correct Forum for this post. Considering buying active crossovers to save building lots of passive xovers to test out the items below and to test out different xover points easily. I have mid - late 1970s Khorns and LaScalas. I have AA networks with Crites Sonicaps. I also have 1 set of homemade ALK Universals, bought as a kit from Mr K in 2009. To test out: I have 1 set of wooden horns, bought 2nd hand in ?2009-2010, 1" throat , driven by typical Klipsch mid range drivers, same as attached to the stock K400 squawkers. When I tested these out back in 2010, I noted different tonal qualities vs the stock metal horns, but I could not say 1 was truly better than the other. (My hearing, my room, my rig). My goal - reproduce the original live sound, LOL. I could never figure out which was closer to what I thought the live performance would have been like. Living in New Orleans I can listen to the real deal all the time, so I spend very little time on my main room system now. I have 1 set of Altec 511Bs with Altec 902-8T drivers. I am aware that the xover point for the K33 in the KH should be 350-400ish HZ, maybe a bit higher for the LS at 400+ish Hz. Altecs like to be over 500 HZ. So yup, we may have a problem here. I have 3 MR94B Altec MantaRays with 3 Altec 291 drivers - but at 16, not 8 ohms. Ditto for the xover point from the K33 woofer driver. I may buy replacement tweeters, eg Beyma CP25s as well, due to blown LaScala tweeter (vs new diapragms). In trying to figure out whether to try 2 way (no separate tweeter) vs 3 way setups (with separate tweeter) with the Altecs, might it be worthwhile to get an Active crossover? In the past the Electrovoice EV DX38 seemed popular, but it is no longer made. They also sold for about $1000.00 new, often over $500 used. dbx, Rane, and Behringer also have similar sounding products listed at websites like Musiciansfriend, Sweetwater, Guitarcenter, etc. I would prefer not to spend $1k on an active xover. Many of the other brands have devices in the $100-400 range, There was a also a post on the MiniDSP, at lower cost. Marchand Electronics and Elliott Sound (http://sound.westhost.com/project09.htm) also have devices. I have lots of amps, so even triamping would not be an issue for me. If I mess with something to replace the K77s, like the Beymas or Crites CP125, Fostex, etc, but keep the K400s or use the wooden horns (but not the Altecs) should I alter my existing xovers somehow? I know Bob Crites has the A 4500 - so long as the K77 is replaced. Maybe the ALK Uni's or existing AAs could be "adjusted" too, perhaps by swapping a capacitor or 2, moving a transformer tap, etc, to save the cost buying 2 new xovers. Or would having a good quality active or digital xover be the simple and easy answer for my "experiments"? If so, which one should I get? Advice appreciated. From NOLA with love.

Interested in the CP25s. Sending PM.

I have a blown tweeter on a late 1970s LaScala. Rather than spend $70+ on new diaphragms, wanted to see what was available for a used Crites, Beyma, Fostex, etc tweeter set. Also interested in an electronic crossover for the LaScalas or Khorns. (I have AAs and 1 set of my own hand assembled ALK Universals c 2009). I have a wooden squawker set, Altec 511s and a new set of MantaRays MR94Bs to play with. An electronic crossover might make playing around with all of this stuff easier.

Can I "Marry" an Altec MR94B MantaRay Horn / Altec 291 (16 ohm - not 8 ohm) series Driver to a 1975 N series Khorn woofer? I recently received a set of three Altec MR94B Horns, 34656 Throat Adapters, and 291-16K drivers. They began life at Duke Stadium in NC.1 driver tested out at 3 ohms on the multimeter. Other 2 were around 14 ohms, and had a little sound production at testing. The first did not emit any sound when tested with the multimeter. Most other speaker terminals on a mix of other speakers I have had 6-7 ohms. The seller replaced the terminals for the drivers. I might have a problem with the first driver despite this. There is no label on the drivers, but I have no reason to doubt that they are 291s vs 288s. My Khorns should be 8 ohms. The Altecs seem to be 16 ohms. I have both AA and ALK Universal crossovers. What changes need to made in them to use the Altecs as a 2 way system? Or do I need a completely new xover? Can I "plonk" the very large Altec system on top of the Khorn, bypass the existing midrange and tweeer horns, and use the Klipsh ?K33 woofer with the 94B as a 2 way system? I think the frequency response curves might have a dip around 350-500 HZ. I suspect that the Altecs, due to size, might project a bit forward from the Khorn cabinet. I hope to do more testing this weekend. Any suggestions appreciated. I have also posted similar Qs re Altec 511 horns at:The Klipsch Community » Klipsch Home Audio » Technical Questions » Qs On USABLE Frequency Range of K-33, K-55 (V and M), K-77, (and Heresy II equivs)http://forums.klipsch.com/forums/t/122037.aspx Other possibly related link:Analysis of Klipschorn and La Scala cabinets with several drivers lists info on several drivershttp://forums.klipsch.com/forums/t/117141.aspxThe horns are painted in light blue and are flaking. As the horns are fiberglass, many folks are skiddish as to how to undue the old paint job. I would prefer basic black. I think that was the original color. Any suggestions appreciated. Thanks -- NOLA

Scrappydue, Just as an aside, we should find out how many of us are running the now old Onkyo 805s. Sonically, it seems to provide a nice inexpensive all in one solution. They do run hot, being the only downside, so good ventilation is important. I run one in my bedroom. I also bought another one when working on the west coast about 2 yrs ago. (Quite cheap now on the used equipt market) I have seen where some other members list them as part of their "rig". Is there a way for to easily find this out, or maybe Amy Unger or somebody else at Klipsch knows how to datamine this information. Cheers, NOLA

Budman - very sweet pics ) My 2 cents: I have 2 dual 18" subs in my main room (old Madison amps Prof Audio gear, but I think the company is pretty much out of business). I also bought 2 old Behringer single 18" subs. The 2 18" Bs stacked = MA dually. Placement is very important - if you can play around with the sub location - with stuff as large as mine are, I was very limited in this. NB - I was told by multiple folks that unlike the rest of a system, the subs should be added per the cubic volume of your room or space and how sonically soft or hard the room is. In my 16 x 40 x ~14' sloped ceiling main room, I usually only need to run a single MA (front) dually or the 2 stacked Berhingers (mid left). Another friend has a homemade cannon: top end 15" driver in about a 3-4' long cylinder. With his ?butt shakers added to his couches, his stuff is even better than mine. His room is L shaped. In a roughly 15' cubed bedroom, my single RSW 15 is more than enough to rattle the windows in my old French Quarter apt. I do have another 15" ELT sub of slightly larger overall size, but due to some "hum" I haven't used it yrs. The 2 15" subs were too much for the bedroom anyway. Also keep in mind folks that the subs should sonically match the rest of the system. I think this is where the "fertilizer" occurs in many audio conversations. They should also not overpower the other speakers, unless yoiu specifically want a bass - heavy system, like I do. When I added the Velodyne SMS base equalizer system, I later pulled it out, as I wanted far more bass than it would allow by matching the sub to my main speakers. My bedroom system easily hits 100 db on the Rat Shack SPL meter. Another New Orleans audio club member, and our President, has 2 small ?8-10 subs in front his main speakers. All of his speakers and subs are from different manufacturers. Yet they are incredibly well sonically matched. (Maybe that is why is he is the President). In the end, nothing else matters if you are happy. Laissez les bon temps roulez! Love (and jealousy) from NOLA )

Hello folks. Could we get some type of update on what, if any, plans are present (or not present) for Klipsch Pilgrimage 2013? Hopefully not another victim of the sketchy economy. August weather in Hope would be as bad or worse than August weather in New Orleans. Simply put - not fun at all, due to the expected very high heat and drenching humidity. Plus, no live music and no great food. Thanx in advance for any info.

PM sent

I am in the West Palm Beach area every few weeks or so. I fly in from New Orleans. If these are still available and in good shape, I would be willing to get / rent a small truck to transport them. Be a win - win for both of us. Pls let me know, Thx. )

Please add me to the list of those interested in the 1977 H 1s. They might match well with my 1978 H 1s. Looking to make a 5.1 Heresy 1 and Klipsch RSW 15" sub system. I am in New Orleans. Just as a FYI, some type of double boxing might be needed or else lots of packing material and a very strong single outer box to make them UPS proof. I have had some speakers and components shipped to me in the past and the corners seem to get bashed in unless reinforced.

Bonjour Pascal: Pourquoi? Les "spam cans" c'est plus agees et (dessicated). Je pense il n'y a acune person/industrie qui fabrique la meme que l'original avec le AA de 1970s utilize par Klipsch. Je pense il y'a un aluminum in oil produit moderne. Cherchez-vous si vous voulez. Mais, ici nous utilizee les chose comme sonic caps. Aussi, un nouveaux xover de DeanG, Al Klappenberger, Bob Crites, etc. Si les un est plus cher, construire la meme chez vous. Ecrivons-nous. (Old 1970s AA with spam can caps are old and dessicated now with no known true exact replacement. I read a posting on audiogon mentioning aluminum in oil caps ?2008 post. Consider new sonic caps or equivalent depending on local availability. Newer xovers are mentioned often on the forums. If these designs are beyond your budget, consider building one on your own from locally available parts. Write back with what you did.)

Hello Folks: I have been off the Forums for a long time. I found someone with a pair of all black LaScalas and they appear to be in good to great shape cosmetically, but I have not heard them yet. They have K-77 tweeter drivers and K400 midrange horns. However, the squawker driver is a K-55 V (not a K-55, and I do not remember the difference in the V model). I do not remember if the 55 V was standard for around 1977. Crossovers are AA with spam can caps. These will need replacing. Bob Crites has these for $87, plus $12 shipping. The AA was modified with POTs for treble and mid - but these look easy to remove. One big area of concern is that the serial numbers are different, non-consecutive (10R274 and 9R360, LSBB-hard to read), yet the speakers look alike, except for the crossover networks being on opposite sides of the cabinets. The inspector last name looks like "Ward" in red letters. I think LSBB means La Scala Birch Black and I think the R is for 1977. I am not sure what the other numbers mean. Any assistance appreciated.What do folks think a fair price would be if they sound good, given the need for recapping and new driver ring seals, etc. From NOLA with love

Hello all from the GTG in Hope, Friday night, June 2010. Q1: How do we / can we test our K55s of the push pin type to see if we have the glitch? (I have 2 KHs, 2 LSs, 2 extra K55s, and about 8 HIs - so 14 potential driver issues). Is testing the squaker / driver combo with a test tone generator and microphone set up to generate a curve needed to check for a spike at about 9KHz? This would be a major pain for me given all of my stuff. Are there some K55s that are specifically known to have this glitch, while others simply don't (of the push pin family)? Most all of my gear would be c. 1976-9, so fo me this is a potential real issue that would be a time consuming pain and cost a bunch to resolve. Q2: There several different sets of inductor and capacitor values given in various posts. So which set of values is more optimal, and why? Are there different values needed in differing networks (E Heresy I vs AA LaScala)? Any suggestion on which caps and inductors to buy. My post Katrina redos were done with Crites supplied Sonicaps. I have stock tweeters, but for those with Beyma or Crites tweeter upgrades are P traps needed? Q3: Should we have some general notice posting on which fix ups are to be considered depending on which speakers and networks are owned by forum users. For example: the K55 9Khz Q; the magnetic screws erroneously used to hold some inductors in place, replacing the gasket red rubber ring between the K55s and the metal horns, checking the foam and black gaskets, replacing old capacitors, etc. Thanks all - at 1 am. NOLA

Where should we be and when? I have to be in Little Rock tomorrow am. Are the tours / etc on Fri and / or Sat ? Thx

Asking this as I will have to fly back to New Orleans Sunday. Looks like events begin 2pm Friday and all thru Saturday. If there is nothing for Sunday, I could take an early flight back Sunday from Little Rock. Other folks might have the same Qs too. Also, is the Holiday Inn in Hope the unofficial GTG hotel? Thx NOLA

Pls add NOLA to the list. Thx