miguelyahoo

I was actually wondering the same thing. They look like KG 1.5's but the grills are slightly different (i.e. klipsch badge on the top versus bottom) and assuming the seller has his dates right, the years of production don't jive either. I would still have to agree with Olorin, however, that they are KG 1.x's - although I also thought they were heresy's until I saw them on the desk next to the phone, oh well.

Thought I'd just add my 2 cents. I really think it's up to your own listening tastes and preferences. All speakers have their own unique characteristics and "personality" for lack of better words. My first set of speakers I purchased were KEF Q70's I auditioned the Definitive Technologies and also Klipsch. Back then I thought the Kef's were much smoother/refined and the Klipsch were too bright and edgy. I liked the DT's but I didn't like the sock and piano top finish (I figured the top would get scratched up and the sock ripped). My older brother in the mean time purchased a Legend set up (KLF 30's and KLF C7) and most of my family thought they are huge ugly boxes that are again, overly bright (to say the least they don't like horns). But now I own klipsch and am in the process of securing a pair of Heresy's because my tastes have changed - not because I feel they are far superior to KEF or DT, but rather I now find myself enjoying their unique qualities (but I am a big Klipsch fan now). So to one his own, and in the end all you have to think about is what will put that big smile on your face when you listen you your media.

Hey guys, Here's the deal, Ebay is a second price auction. In the second price auction the winner pays the second highest bid. So you enter your maximum bid (or valuation). If this is higher than the other maximum bids then you are the current high bidder. The current bid listed on Ebay is not the maximum valuation, but rather the next highest valuation below the high bidder. So let's say someone opened the bid at $200 and the auction started at $1. The current bid would show $1 even though his maximum bid was 200. Let's say the individual in question (the "dork") decides to bid, now he can't see nor is he aware that the first valuation was 200, so let's say he bids 100. The current bid will automatically jump to 105 (or some increment above 100), in essence automatically bidding for the first bidder, since what the "dork" entered was below 200. The "dork" will get a message that says you were outbid. He then has the option to bid more or stay out. What happened in the list you provided is the "dork" incrementally kept bidding higher until he passed every other maximum bid/valuation. So while it looks like he was bidding against himself he was actually going against the automatic bidding system. By bidding in this fashion he can determine what the others' maximums were before him - not necessarily dumb but he probably didn't want to bid a high max just yet (good strategy). Now if you are the max bidder you can continue to increase your maximum bid (thereby increasing your chances of winning) but these actions will not be reflected in the bid actions. So the if the "dork" really wanted the belles he could put a bid of $10,000 and he would only pay what the second highest bid at the auctions conclusion (I don't recommend this strategy at all, you never know what may happen). Just to let know the optimal strategy for a second price auction (including Ebay) is to wait until the very end and bid your true valuation. This way the most you will pay is your true valuation (and hopefully less) and you optimize your chances of winning the auction (by waiting until the end). Just a word of caution, traditionally items selling on Ebay tend to sell above their actual market value - I guess aggressive bidding.

I know what you are going through, I was trying to find a KV4 to match my epic series speakers, but to no avail, so I settled on a KLF C7. I have seen an Academy come onto Ebay with far greater frequency than the KV4 (actually I have yet to see a KV4 on Ebay, and I think I've seen a couple of Acadedmys but they were in less than stellar condition). You can also check www.audiogon.com (and post a wanted ad), but I haven't seen an academy listed there for the past 2 months or so. Good luck.

I don't know, maybe I choose form over function but I really like Bell'o. Don't be fooled by their less than inspiring webpage, they make solid stuff (albeit somewhat pricey); they may not be the best to help "sonically" but asthetically I find them quite appealing (they are more modern - but tastes do differ). I guess another potential problem is there is no hiding your AV gear - it's more of a showcase than an integrated shelving system.

I think I'm going to go with the Furman (probably one of the pro series II as minn_male42 suggested) - I had some second thoughts because it was in a rack mounted configuration and didn't look nearly as "snazzy" as the Monster Power units ( I was considering the HTS 5100 or MKII 5000). I guess I'll have to buy a rack mount case, but I can hook up my synth and WX5 too, at least there will be some instruments to go with the pro audio conditioner. This discussion has been very very useful, I also didn't realize there were so many alternatives to Monster and Panamax (strange no one mentioned the latter). Thanks guys

Thanks guys, looks like I have some new alternatives to consider. I'll definitely broaden my scope beyond Monster.

Thanks Jay, I'll definitely look into purchasing one - I just had to find reaffirment from someone that it helps (well at least from someone that's unbiased and not trying to sell me something

Hey guys, I was curious to know what your opinions are on power line conditioners (like Monster Power). Is there any efficacy to spending copious amounts of money on hi-end units or are there large diminishing returns? Is this another issue like interconnects and speaker wire? Any information you can lend to help elucidate this matter would be much appreciated.

I'm not sure if you are interested in purchasing the sub from sources other than retail but there is a Klipsch RW12 sub listed for $399 new on audiogon, not sure if he still has it since users do not always update their ads in a timely fashion. http://cls.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?homesubw&1102623113 Obviously I'm not the seller, nor am I affiliated with him - just offering some options.

Congrats on the Klipsch gems. Sensitivity usually refers to the efficiency - basically the SPL (Sound Pressure Level) output (in decibles) you would get at 1 meter if you put 1 watt through the speaker (at 8 ohms); therefore the higher the efficiency the less power required to play loud as it were. Ohms refers to the resistance (electric current resistance), while most speakers are 8 ohms they do vary, with the other most common values being 6 and 4. Resistance is commonly referred to as the nominal impedance - this is essentially the average impedance or resistance of the speaker, since it can vary during playback. Basically this means the lower the number, the lower the resistance. Often the amplifier will double the power output if the ohms are split in half, so for an 8 ohm speaker the power output from the amp might be 80 watts, but with the 4 ohm speaker it will jumpt to 160. The caveat being that you will usually produce much louder volumes from a low ohm speaker, but depending on your system you might also tax your amps if they are not rated to work with less than 8 ohms. Hope this helps.

There is actually two black KLF C7's on Ebay right now, one however has an initial bid of 399. About a week ago someone purchased a KLF C7 (black) for the buy it now price of 399, just for reference. If time isn't an issue it seems like the KLF C7's have been poppping up on Ebay with some frequency over the last few weeks. Good luck, just remember the optimal bidding strategy for a second price auction is to bid your valuation near the end of the auction. Audiogon is also a wonderful place to find the center channel - just post a wanted ad. I was actually looking for the KV4 but I missed an opportunity and since they come around once in a blue moon I settled on the KLF C7. In fact I have one on its way to me as I write this - I also paid considerably less than what the Ebay market tends to bear (you aren't competing against a large market). Good luck

Howdy, If you are concerned with voice matching your main speakers to the center channel then Klipsch seems to recommend the KG 2.2V or the KG 1.2V. I have seen these on Ebay from time to time, but not as frequently as the KV1,2,3 center channels. I know that the KV centers (not the KV4, it was timbre matched the epic series, CF1,2,3,4) were matches for the KG series but I'm not entirely certain that all of the KV's will fit (Klipsch says the KV3 does). As for the settings of large or small, I presume you are referring to the settings on your receiver or preamp. In this regards you should probably set your mains to large since the KG 4.2's are full range floor standing speakers. If you have bookshelf speakers that do not cover the "full range" then you should set the speakers to small. As for the sub, the crossover should be set so as to make the transition from the sub to the speakers as seamless as possible. I read somewhere where they recommended using a moving baseline or a sequence with a cello to determine where the optimal setting resides - essentially experiment with the frequency settings until you can no longer tell when the sub starts and stops. Is it a huge problem not to have sonically matched speakers? The most important are the front three, you can get away with the rears different, but to create the most seamless soundstage they should all be voiced matched. Many will recommend having the front three all the same speaker (for most this isn't possible given space constraints). Actually I haven't been able to acquire a KV4 center channel to match my Epic CF1's so I've given up and purchased the KLF C7 - compromise yes, but for now it will do. Hope this helps