Jay L

Getting in touch with Indy Audio Labs is your best bet. Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

I just want to make sure I'm using the right terminology If the speaker is "approved by Dolby" then it is without a doubt a DAES solution. Dolby Atmos Enabled Speakers are any speaker certified by Dolby that fires into the ceiling. I like to use term DAES, problem is you always want to type "speaker" twice. Yes, you will want 4 "Height plane" speakers, regardless of the method for reproduction. It is just that much better.

How do you decrease box volume, while increasing extension, and not loose sensitivity?

I say this, you can NOT go wrong with a set of RP-280FA. This will give you the best Atmos experience Klipsch has to offer, actually I'd say anyone can offer. My gut says it will work fine with DTS material as well. As soon as I get material on hand, I will test this. Nothing is inherently wrong with the idea of what a DAES can do with someone else's algorithm.

Your pictures are not showing up. Match this layout as close as possible. If you are only doing a 5.1 layout then try surrounds at 120 degrees instead of 90. All speakers should be close to 1.2 meters in height to the acoustic center of the speaker. Surrounds can go 1.25 times higher than the 1.2m recommendation as a maximum. Sometimes this isn't possible, just get as close as you can.

The grille is part of the recipe, I would leave it in place.

No, not like that, like this. The inner black area would be a cutout. Bill If you simply replicate the current grille design with walnut, okay. If you try to cover more of the foam area then the current design has, then bad things will happen.

Easy remedy there. Just place on top a custom cut a 1/4" thick walnut panel with a cutout to just cover the foam. Bill I would not do that, it will alter the magic.

I'll just say if passive parts have an influence on the final product, then why use them at all? Put on the birthday suit, make all speakers fully active.

Your surrounds are way too high. It will cause images to drift from low to high when a pan goes around. This is why all speakers need to be as close as possible to the same height. A sub crawl as they call it, is putting the sub in the listening position then crawl around the room until you hear the best sound. It isn't really that great of a test, but is better than nothing. I tend to call a spade a spade, there is usually only a few good spots available in a room for the subwoofers (yes you need multiples). Try those positions and listen at your sweet spot. Multiple subwoofers will be way more effective than one alone could ever be. Multiples help even out the room response, but can be tough to integrate without test equipment. The sub location and integration in the system is best done with in room measurements. When you get through all the other minutia, look up REW software on the home theater shack. That will take care of several days of fun!

Without seeing pictures, the best advice is match this layout as close as possible. All speakers should be close to 1.2 meters in height to the acoustic center of the speaker. Surrounds can go 1.25 times higher than the 1.2m recommendation as a maximum. Sometimes this isn't possible, just get as close as you can.

If you are sitting that close to the back wall then how are you using back channels? They would basically fire into your head or over you if mounted high. I have stopped using back channels as my couch is 3 feet from my back wall. I do think placing the height channels as close to the recommended location is worth the effort. What I am suggesting is you do 5.1.4 as close as you can to ideal layout. Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

It was done to hide fasteners. Yes, it is functional.

This has nothing to do with us, I am sure if that. How these parts ended up where they did, I don't know. Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

I would not sit them on top of the 250S as I am assuming it is your side surround speaker. The DAES style of speaker when used in the rear should be approximately a mirror placement of the front DAES position. See attached photo showing the correct placement. Speaker 6 would be your RP-140SA placement.

You can tuck the tab under the grille without issue if you so desire.

Klipsch isn't in the business of selling parts. This might be a different story if the product was discontinued, but it certainly isn't.

I am only saying to my knowledge Klipsch had no part in providing parts. Why would anyone buy excess parts for something that is still in production? You pay for what you use makes most sense to me. Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

I would not count on those woofers being exactly like what you think they are. Klipsch would not allow clones on the market if there was a chance to stop it.

The RP-140SA will fit on every RP series tower, and RP-160M without overhang.

natural damping

The 140SA will work great as a surround speaker. I am using them in my home. It has a keyhole mount built into the bottom.

The only softies I am aware of were in the Quintet 1, KSB bookshelf series, and soundbars.

They are a very good looking speaker. Just checked out the specs, very impressive. I'm not familiar with Atmos sound or technology. Do they work with two channel music as well?As well, do the top drivers run off the same channel or do you use the hieghts speaker setting on your AVR? You would power the height channels with different amp channels than the mains. You can use Dolby Surround processing to activate height channels even if you don't have a full surround system. It is pretty cool just using it on music. The RP-280FA can certainly work without subs, though I always have subwoofers on.Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk

If you want veneer and be ready for the future how about the RP-280FA? It is fairly large, and has Atmos speakers built in. It has a matching veneer center if you so choose. Just throwing it out there. Sent from my VS986 using Tapatalk