tofu

i know this question wasn't directed toward me, but i feel the need to chime in. why exactly are you so intent on having others tell you if your speakers meet their approval or not? can't you tell for yourself if something sounds better or worse? who cares if klipsch agrees with your modifications or not. and what's the big deal with all of these paper specs (freq response, distortion, efficiencies, radiation patterens, impedances, power handling capabilities, low power performance, high power performance, temperature & humidity effects, transient responses, resonance)? i prefer to listen with my ears, not look at a piece of paper and use my eyes to judge components.

to be honest, i don't know of anyone on these forums who bought their speakers for $4k and did irreversable modifications to them. mine were bought used. at the time i purchased my speakers, i had no intention of modifying them. hell, i didn't even know altec made anything aside from computer speakers. if i were to build the cabinets myself and make all my "modified part substitutions," i might have saved a few hundred, but i needed a good foundation to work from. had i known then what i know now, things probably would have worked out differently. i did not buy my speakers because they had a "klipsch sound." i bought them because i liked what i heard. same applies to my modifications. i did not do them because i'm an altec fan, but rather because it sounds better than a bone stock la scala. i'm fully aware that it's not 100% a klipsch speaker anymore, and i don't try to pass it off as one.

i'm not fully understanding you here... why would one draw a line if sound is continually being improved? personally, i don't buy audio components for emotional reasons, i buy them because of the way they perform. if i thought bose had a better sounding stock speaker, i would've purchased it over my la scalas in a heartbeat. my 511b's sound better and so do my altec 902's. i'm not sure why i should limit myself just so my speakers sound like something inferior. klipsch speakers are great, but there will never be a product that can't be further improved. the two speakers most talked about here (khorn, la scala) are great stock, but it'd just be silly to say they can't sound better.

looks like i missed the fun

i ran it two-way for a day. i experienced the same "where did my tweeter go?" ordeal. it was later confirmed by al and dean that the crossover modification they suggested would not work correctly, so i said screw it and put everything back together. as far as i know, the upper frequencies shouldn't have been affected by the crossover error, only the crossover point, so my opinion may still be valid.

do you prefer this over running your speakers two-way?

well i used the extra caulk i had laying around and ripped some off of my k400's. no more clap ringing.

one lip? sounds good. how many layers of the rope caulk should i use? and should i line the entire thing or just the extreme tip and use about two rows of the caulk

so sfogg, you just threw a glob of putty on the lips of the 511b's? i'm assuming i can do the same with the extra rope caulk i have left over? interesting how you didn't have to line the entire lip. i'll try lining the top and bottom with the rope caulk so it looks neater instead of squishing it all up in the middle. because these things sure as hell ring when i clap. it's not a subtle ring either. although when i play music, i can't detect the ringing. i suppose it's masked by the music pretty well. -chris

tubes bringing out more accuracy and detail than high end ss? first time i've heard that one...

that looks really great! i bet they're worth more than what you paid for them now atleast

my scalas are stained by the previous owner.. he did a pretty bad job too. easiest solution aside from painting? i'm not sure if sanding will work. i hear stain is pretty hard to sand out, and seeing as how the veneer is so thin...

thanks for the help guys. i appreciate it.

so, i'm ready to start rewiring my networks today. just one last question remains unanswered. dean says the 44uf value will raise my crossover to ~600hz (i say ~600 because it will be more along the lines of 44.4uf) but al says that will lower my crossover point BELOW 400hz.. i value both of your information highly, and when you start contradicting eachother with non opinionated issues, it really confuses me []. can i get a final answer on this?

crossover point shouldn't be an issue if i go with the 44uf value dean recommended

3rd option is sell off tweeters when the moment is right and pick up a pair of bob's new creation whenever it comes out

so many contradicting opinions. i guess theres only one way to find out

you don't think i'll like the sound of the 600hz crossover point, running two-way, or going first order?

yea but the idea was for me to modify this without buying new parts

whoops.. mixed up that decimal. all i have is the .30 from the original ALK. i guess the route i'll have to take is the schematic you X'd out for me

so, can i get a concensus on this? "so what would be the better choice? the first order that al suggested or running the .3mh in parallel as jwc said? personally i'd prefer second order for the steeper rolloff, but i'm not sure if jwc's suggestion is safe or not." []

no preamp yet.. it's not too high on my priority list

so what would be the better choice? the first order that al suggested or running the .3mh in parallel as jwc said? personally i'd prefer second order for the steeper rolloff, but i'm not sure if jwc's suggestion is safe or not.

pff... can't win. oh well

jc i have no problem with rewiring anything (i've been too lazy to solder it together and everything is just crimped/twisted for now). i guess my laziness paid off! i just don't want to have to order more parts at the moment. been spending enough money as it is. i'm really looking for the best way to go with what i'm working with right now.