fini

Was that $982 for the pair, or each? Hope you didn't lose money on the deal. fini This message has been edited by fini on 09-03-2001 at 12:06 AM

You'd probably get more responses if you were more specific with your criteria. You know: Why just these two; How much do you want to spend; What features are you looking for, etc. I have a two year old bottom-of-the-line Pioneer DVD player (DV-525) that I'm pleased with. Good luck, fini

Ooh, do I smell a three page, hotly argued, hostility-filled debate a'brewin'? MDF-to screw or not to screw... It'll rival the big wire controversy, for sure! In MY experience, screwing MDF works in a "screw-and-glue" situation, where the pieces being joined together aren't going to be taken apart. In applications where parts will be removed, I'd use solid wood or plywood- repeated screwing and unscrewing in MDF will eventually drill a hole too big for the screw to "bite." Two other points: Fasteners driven perpendicular to the surface hold well, but tend to "dimple-up" the area right at the fastener, so close attention should be paid at sanding time. Also, fasteners driven into the "end-grain," even small ones, can wedge the layers apart, so predrill. So, who thinks I'm wrong, huh? fini

Randy, Sounds like you need to upgrade your "equipment." fini

HornEd, Howdy! That stuff your son bought would be the real thing. Medium Density Fiberboard is used extensively in cabinetry and in interior trim because it takes a paint finish and wood veneers so well (it's sooo smooth). They even make it into fancy mouldings, like crown moulding. I have no clue, however, about its sonic qualities, and how they compare with other materials (like plywood, lumber core, etc.). MDF is easy to work with, but the dust, whether from sanding or cutting, is VERY fine, and goes everywhere, so keep it out of your lungs with a good mask. By the way, there is another product called MDF Ultralight (Ultralite?) that is, as you would expect, MUCH lighter than regular MDF, and is available in 1 1/2" thick panels. Makes nice bookshelving. See ya, fini

Uh, yeah, that's what I was going to say, but Ray beat me to it. Thanks, Ray. fini

Danny, I was thinking about doing the same surround thing in my set-up, using some KSP-c6's as "B" surrounds for 5ch stereo, since they are the same speaker as the 400's, minus the sub. Mounting yours vertically, you might consider turning the horns 90 degrees so the sound dispersion fits the room better. Anyone have thoughts on this? (Sorry, Steve. Should have made a new Topic on this one...) Regards, fini This message has been edited by fini on 08-21-2001 at 08:16 AM

Steve, I'm using the s5's with KSP-400"s and a KSP c-6, and they sound fine together, although I would like someday to upgrade (trade, etc) to the s6's (the EXACT match for the rest of my system). I asked BobG about the match, and he said it would be o.k., just that the s5's aren't as loud (i.e. efficient) as the s6's (that's why Danny had to crank 'em). Regards, fini This message has been edited by fini on 08-21-2001 at 08:02 AM

Wouldn't it be fun if we could have morphing avatars? Ed, I can see your horns slowly changing to mouse ears, then the hat raising to reveal... Take care, fini

My "new" Cornwalls (same '79 vintage as yours) have had banana posts added. The plugs are to the sides of the oroginal screw terminal block (still in place), one on each side. Wires were run on the inside from the mounting block screws to the b-plug screws, so one could use either terminal. On mine the installation was a bit sloppy: the banana posts tend to unscrew from the speaker back when you go to loosen them, and you can only tighten them so far before thet spin. I'm getting new diaphragms soon (in the mail) for the tweets, so I'll fix all that then. Happy listening, fini

The kind I installed, I guess, was the peephole type. As I recall, the mounting block had wires to the individual components, probably the stick-on-the-front-of-the-component type (I hope you can follow this highly technical jargon...). Alas, I defer to the experts, here. Gotcha covered on cabinet issues, though. I saw Acoustic Alchemy in Healdsburg, CA last year. Awesome. Really nice guys, too. After the first set, my wife and I stood in line to get some CD's signed. When we got to the front of the line, I asked them if they wouldn't mind saying to my wife, "Do I make you horny, baby, do I?" (They're English, ya know.) "She just really digs it when British men say that!" They all laughed, and my wife didn't take her face out of her hands until halfway through Otmar Leibert's set. (Side note: He wasn't wearing socks.) I'll be out of town for about a week, Take care, fini

Good morning, Tom! How are your socks? Well, enough chit-chat. As a carpenter mainly installing cabinetry and finish material, I did once install such a piece of equipment in an AV cabinet. I don't recall the brand or model (I can probably find that info somewhere), but it was a pretty cool thang. The installation involved drilling a hole through a part of the cabinet that was visible to the remote when the doors were closed. Into this hole was inserted a snug fitting, inconspicuous IR sensor with wires coming off the back going to a wiring block tucked in a corner of the cab, behind doors. Why doncha post some pics of your cabs? And can you please get those socks in the shot? So you like Acoustic Alchemy, too, eh? Ever see 'em live? Cheers, fini Oops, just reread your post. Haven't installed 'em yet. What kind of cabs are they? Custom built, knock-down in a box, stock parts from a store? Maybe you could still post a pic from a catalog, or a website. Seeing them would help in advising where to put the sensor, if you want the help. fini This message has been edited by fini on 08-20-2001 at 09:26 AM

Ed, if they're broken, Klipsch will fix them under warranty. They have a great customer service department at 1-800-KLIPSCH. Another possibile (probable) cause of undesirable sound would be speaker placement/room accoustics issues. There are plenty of folks here with vast amounts of knowledge (at least they've fooled me! ). I'm just thinking, if you LOVED these speakers, maybe there's something you could do to rekindle the fire in your relationship with them. Lots of free counseling here! These speakers are now, I hear, going for cheap (relatively) on Ubid, brand new with warranty, so if you sell, price accordingly. Good luck! fini All we are saying, is give Klipsch a chance...

Ed! Sounds like a moving experience! It'll be a bit later in the Faire's run, but we'll get there and look you up! This coming weekend we'll be in Lala land, visiting the mouse before it's back to school time. I've never gone to the Faire in costume, but must this time, for sure (something other than mouse ears...). Congratulations to your Mother on her honor! Make sure you both drink lots of water in that hot weather. You don't want your horns to droop... Regards, fini

I'm in!! I've got a degree in Art with a film emphasis, a 16 mm Bolex, and I used to know somebody whose brother-in-law borrowed a typewriter, I think. Klipsch needs our help! fini

HornEd! I posted a reply here, followed by a witty follow-up from Doug Drake, and they all distapeared!! So, as a public service, I will try to recreate: I may take my kids this year to the RPF! I haven't been in, maybe, fifteen years. It will be my girls' first. Should have been going all along, living in Sonoma County, and all. So do I recognize you by your distinctive headgear, or should I walk around with a cart, yelling, "Bring out yer dead (tweeters)!"? wink, wink, fini To which Doug replied...

Steve, good call on the dresser disguise. Ive rigged mine up as spare rooms. Mycroft, I found mine in the SF Chron. They were located in Alameda, so they're out there. If I see some come up somewhere, do you want to be PM'd? I think one pair will be enough for me (unless I read any more of Jim Cornell's posts! ). Don't let down your guard (Bob could be anywhere)! fini

Someone is selling some (as I recall) KG4.5's on Ebay right now with a vibration fix involving what looks like about a roll of duct tape. If I knew how to do a link, I'd do it for y'all. Cheers, fini

Wow, djk, that's a cool tidbit of info! Do the same or similar codes work for the squaker and tweeter? I'd like to know all this so I can write it down in my twins' (Cornwalls) memory book. They're adopted, and I'm trying to piece together their past. Hey, how about an online Klipsch genealogy service? Photos of our Klipsches being born! BobG giving them a little spank, then hearing the first sounds out of their little squawker... A man who loves his Cornwalls too much, fini This message has been edited by fini on 08-17-2001 at 07:25 AM

Unfortunately, I bought the last pair in existence. No more will be for sale, and they refuse to reintroduce the line. Klipsch's main man in the field, BobG, has been roaming the country destroying every Cornwall he can find. Cornwall owners beware! DO NOT LET BOBG INTO YOUR HOUSE! I have been leaving empty Bose boxes at the curb to decoy him away from my home. Thank God he never visits this board anymore... Another heads-up from fini

Oh, one more thing, along the lines of something loose. Could be some little varmints runnin' loose in there somewhere. I had opossums under my house once. If anyone is interested in hearing about their successful erradication, I'll give the gory details. Just brace yourselves. fini Oops! Meant to post this under "Furry Vibrating La Scalas" topic. Sorry. This message has been edited by fini on 08-16-2001 at 03:05 PM

John, please re-read my post. I'm not suggesting squeezing the speaker sides in, rather, stabilizing them where they are. That's the idea behind the front brace that goes across the front of the speakers and attatches with screws to the side braces, which are held flush to the front edge of the cabinet. This, in effect, would create a 2X4 frame around the speaker (held at whatever height you wanted, play around with it) that doesn't hard-connect (nails, screws) to the cabinet, but is held with various clamps. Here's another idea, less complicated (darn!) and probably better. For each speaker, cut two 2X4's the height of the speaker. C-clamp them,one on each side to the speaker flush with the front edge, top and bottom, taking care to protect the surfaces with something cushy. Then place more c-clamps along the 2X4/cabinet edge at various heights and see what that does. This is basically Gil's idea, as I understand it. This might simulate what would happen if you did a permanent brace FROM THE OUTSIDE, like adding stiffening panels (matching the finish of the speakers, or even a design that aesthetically ties the speakers to other cabinet or architectural features in your listening area). This could be pretty cool, I think. A REALLY simple approach to experiment with an internal brace would be to cut a piece of wood (1X2?) to the inside dimension, side-to-side, of the speaker. Hold it in place across the front of the speaker, in-between the sides, flush with the fronts. Grab the ol' pipe clamp (oh no!), and clamp the stick between the speaker sides. You might also want to grab the ol' lady (not THAT way!) to help you with this. Extra hands and all. Experiment: up and down, in and out (with the brace, I'm talking, now), maybe you'll find something that "feels" good (you know, I'm serious about this, but you know where my mind is going... ). Anyway, make sure you use protection (to protect EVERONE'S fine finishes). I'm spent. fini P.S. Now, when someone searches the forums for posts that include "furiously vibrating," "squeezing," "stiffening," "stick between," and "in and out" they'll end up here. Isn't English fun? This message has been edited by fini on 08-16-2001 at 11:01 AM

Ray, don't be silly. I didn't replace the wires, just the poles! Whaddaya think cable grows on trees? fini

Ray, pipe clamps are available at Home Depot (or any larger hardware store). Jorgensen makes the standard of the industry, but lots of companies make them. They're called pipe clamps because you use a length (any length) of pipe (1/2" or 3/4", depending on which type you get) to connect the clamp parts together. One end screws onto the threads of the pipe. The other part slides up and down the pipe, adjustable to the size of the thing you're clamping. Once it's slid close, you tighten it with the screw-deal (technical term), applying as much pressure as you want. So you get a length of pipe, say, a foot longer than the thickness you're clamping (the width of the speakers plus two 2X4's), give or take. The throat depth of a pipe clamp is only about 1 1/2". there are other types of clamps with deeper throats, but if you try to clamp the middle of the sides of the cabinets hard enough to eliminate the vibration, you would probably distort (bend in) it, possibly damaging something like the joinery or finish. My idea is for you to stabilize the sides where they are. Is this clear? I know this stuff is hard to visualize, and describe. Did you get the part about the 2X4 across the front? That's also to keep the box from distorting. Once you have this bracing in place, you can use a type of deep throated Vice Grip clamps with swivel tips to clamp the sides to the 2X4's. Remember, though, to cushion between the clamp and the speaker, so you don't scar the finish. Also, a falling clamp can really do damage. Take care. fini

Ray, fini the carpenter talking here. Just an idea on experimenting around. How about clamping some bracing (such as 2X4's wrapped in a towel to keep them from scratching) to the speakers? I'm thinking a pipe clamp across the back of the speakers (holding the 2X4's), and small Quick Grips holding them to the walls of the speaker in front, then another 2X4 attatched with screws to the side 2X4's across the front. This may stop the vibration, so that you can hear if that's the problem, but it sounds like you've deduced that already. Just 2 cents from fini. By the way, if you try this, make sure you have auxilliary supports for the braces and the clamps for if (when) the vibrate loose. Cheers! fini p.s. I hope your finger feels better