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texican58

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Everything posted by texican58

  1. Davis419b, that's a great question. And I can't answer it. I've always made the assumption that they were CWLs. I see what you're talking about on the tag, but i've never actually paid attention. Any idea how I would find out for sure? Please advise.
  2. I believe my CWs are 1978 vintage. Pics of one of the labels (the one that is still legible) and the stamped S/Ns are attached. hope this helps.
  3. There is another one on the other side (identical except for one S/N digit) in the same shape. Walnut Lacquer (CWL) Local pickup is Houston, TX. They are standard vertical speakers (not reconfigured to be center channel). Other questions? Let 'em fly.
  4. finish is Walnut Lacquer (CWL).
  5. Sorry. location is Houston, Texas
  6. Friends, I'm finally letting my beloved CW's go. They're in really nice shape (no dings or scratches), consecutive Serial #s, original Type B X-overs, CWL. $1200 and local pickup (unless you want to take on the task of arranging shipping). Happy Holidays. Tex58
  7. For those of you that love the sound of the Legend Series, my brother is selling his system. I told him that I would let the forum have 1st crack before the preverbial eBay auction ensues. Anyway.... For Sale: (All Black Klipsch Home Theater System) Pair (Excellent Condition) KLF-20s (Black) ($700) (1) KLFC7 Center Channel (Black) (Excellent Condition) ($350) (1) KSW15 Subwoofer (Black) (Excellent Condition)($350) Local Pickup Only (Roanoke / Lexington, VA. Whole system price is negotiable. You might pick the whole package up for $1100. DO NOT CALL AFTER 8PM EST!!! 540-348-5040
  8. For those of you that love the sound of the Legend Series, my brother is selling his system. I told him that I would let the forum have 1st crack before the preverbial eBay auction ensues. Anyway.... For Sale: (All Black Klipsch Home Theater System) Pair (Excellent Condition) KLF-20s (Black) ($700) (1) KLFC7 Center Channel (Black) (Excellent Condition) ($350) (1) KSW15 Subwoofer (Black) (Excellent Condition)($350) Local Pickup Only (Roanoke / Lexington, VA. Whole system price is negotiable. You might pick the whole package up for $1100. DO NOT CALL AFTER 8PM EST!!! 540-348-5040
  9. ---------------- On 6/14/2005 10:55:35 PM SCOOTERDOG wrote: Happy birthday to me - happy birthday to me-happy birthday dear scooter - happy birthday to me.... ---------------- Happy B-Day ScooterDog. My B-day was yesterday and I stayed sober. That's a twist...lol!!! Love the month of June! Congrats. Mitch
  10. ---------------- On 6/15/2005 2:54:11 PM d56rt wrote: Hello, I have a pair of Cornwalls and I think that one of the crossovers may be damaged. Sometimes when I listen to them, the left speaker sounds as though the mid driver is not working. Are there any tests I can perform to verify what is the actual problem and where can I purchase new crossovers to replace my existing component? If yes, what are the costs? Thank you. Christopher ---------------- I'm sure another forum member will chime in re: testing of your crossovers. There are multiple fellers on this forum that can do you right w/ new or rebuilt crossovers. Bob Crites (BEC) and DeanG both are accomplished crossover gurus that can advise/help you. If they are cutting in and out, your problem could be as simple as a loose connection. Have you taken the backs off of the CWs to inspect things? MJ
  11. Win, I hate fooling w/ car problems. I feel your pain. Sorry to hear about your plight. I, too am interested in either of the MC240s that you have for sale. I don't have a vehicle for trade, so my offer would be for cash. what are you asking for the amps? Mitch
  12. Nice crossovers. I wish he had pix. Curious about the 'true' cosmetic condition of these. $500 is unheard of. Makes me worry that there's more to this than meets the eye (or doesn't meet the eye)
  13. Thanks to all. this is settled. Budman found me the flute I needed (single). I already had the K55V. I have everything (including the veneer) to complete my 3rd Cornwall project. As soon as some consensus is reached (Titebond II vs. Contact cement), I'm planning to veneer this baby and re-assemble it. I know it's been awhile since I began this project, but I found that I had too many chainsaws in the air. I'm close to getting this back ON again. Will post pix. Thanks to all (Colter, Cyclone, Dodger, Budman, etc.) Mitch
  14. ---------------- On 5/31/2005 6:11:14 PM pauln wrote: Anyone else in the Houston area think Mattress Mac could be a heritage showroom Klipsch dealer? "Save you monnnnnnney!"? ---------------- It would be nice, but nah.... he's too busy doing the tennis thing now. That's become his latest goldmine. Where in Houston are you? I'm in Spring (1960 & 45)
  15. Update: I changed TVs...got the Sony 70" Grand Wega. because the TV is so big, I cancelled the custom cabinet and reduced it to a TV credenza (6' x 35"t). I now have '88 LaScalas, '78 CWs and another CW center, a 12" sub, and I'm debating on whether to use LaScalas as fronts and CWs as rears or vice-versa. I also have some RS35s and and RC3II but I'm wary of using them w/ Heritage equipment for timbre matching reasons. As surrounds, the RS35s may be fine. If so, I'd move either the LaScalas or CWs to another room and make another HT system or dedicated 3-channel music room there. Anybody doing two LaScalas and a CW center in 3-channel array for music? Mitch
  16. Found the horn I needed. Thanks Russ (Budman)!!
  17. Members... This is a trick i just tried for corner repairs on speakers. It works!
  18. ---------------- On 5/30/2005 12:21:04 PM jorjen wrote: Mitch, I used the Titebond II iron on method on a few projects, Cornwalls, Khorns and so on and it worked OK, but on the Belles I am getting ready to do I am going back to contact adhesive. I think Greg told me sometime back that he was going back to it as well. If you are going to use an oil finish you should not have any problems with Weldwood/other contact adhesives. I think overall, especially on large, flat surfaces(like the front of a Khorn)you will be pleased with this method. Remember to make sure you have your veneer where you want it though because once it is down, it is not going anywhere. Also keep in mind that when you use the Titebond method, once it cools completely, you can start trimming and working/sanding, etc. your edges without fear of delaminating or chipping. With the contact adhesive you really need to wait until it dries to work your edges. This can lenthen your project a bit. ---------------- Jordan, Thanks for the information. Patience is not a problem If the Weldwood contact cement is a better option for adherance, that's what I want. I have no problem waiting for it to dry. Best regards....and thanks....Mitch
  19. ---------------- On 5/27/2005 1:16:58 PM cjgeraci wrote: ---------------- On 5/27/2005 1:03:06 PM texican58 wrote: ---------------- On 5/27/2005 8:53:54 AM Colin wrote: nice system bet it sounds great but no sub? need a sub with LS! not just for movies, but for music too. ---------------- Using the Dynaco ST70, how would one connect/integrate a sub into that configuration? I've been looking at tube amps/preamps and am dying to hear the difference. Is there anything wrong with a good, rebuilt Dynaco ST70? I've not heard of this "vrd" thing. What's up w/ the Peaches and Blueberries? I know nothing (in the immortal words of Schultz) about either. Do I need one of these as well? I have Klipsch LaScalas (AL-3), and Cornwalls in my HT configuration. I would love to hear the difference b/t my Yamaha VXR2400 HT receiver and a real tube configuration. I don't know where to start. Help is appreciated, especially from those of you with lots of experience. Regards....Mitch ---------------- Mark Deneen, a forum member, has a company called Juicy Music Audio. Go to www.juicymusicaudio.com. A number of forum members have purchased Blueberries and Peaches, both of which are tube preamps - and have been very pleased with their sound. The primary difference between the Blueberry and the Peach is that the Blueberry has a phono linestage for vinyl spinning while the Peach does not (and therefore - usually for CD only), but the Peach also has a nice Home Theater bypass. The HT bypass in my Peach allows me to use it both as a two-channel tube preamp and also as a bypass so that my Belles can also receive a processor feed and act as mains in my 5.1 movie setup. Go to www.nosvalves.com to see Craig's VRDs (Valve Roller's Dream). Craig Ostby, also a forum member, designed and builds these push-pull tube amplifiers and again - a number of forum members own them and rave about them - especially for horn speakers. In my opinion, there is nothing "wrong" with a rebuild Dynaco ST70 - I've owned one. However, VRDs are in another league altogether - both with respect to clean power (and lots of it) and quality of sound. If I did not own my Marantz 8B, I would probably own a pair of VRDs, and I may still purchase a set someday. I also own a Peach and have heard Blueberrys and VRDs with horns and all three are excellent products - especially for horns. Craig also does outstanding restorations or freshenings of vintage tube amps. There is a simple solution for integrating a sub with a two-channel setup. Split one output coming out of your preamp (can use a simple "Y" adaptor) and send one feed (with a full signal) to the sub. Then, if the sub has a crossover, set the crossover to cut off the signal (60, 80, 100hz) where you want it. I split one of my main outputs coming out of my Peach preamp to my SVS sub, and it works like a dream. Carl. ---------------- Carl, Thanks for the candid, straight-up information. It's always a pleasure to get perfect succint answers to one's questions without the other unnecessary rhetoric. great information....much obliged....mitch
  20. ---------------- On 5/16/2005 2:59:07 PM billyjoe72 wrote: That's sad to see. Those are the brother and sister of my two klf 20's. I am curious whether you bought those off ebay. I viewed a couple sets for sale and thought about snagging them. I'm waiting on some 30's close to Ohio. Sorry for all the bloodshed. ---------------- yes, it was a eBay deal in South Carolina. Mitch
  21. ---------------- On 5/16/2005 2:28:47 PM colterphoto1 wrote: I have KLF-C7 center speaker and noted the hot-glue construction method. Do you have to wait until they fall apart to re-glue em or did you apply the liquid nails like a caulking to all the interior joints you could get to? Michael Mitch- I didn't mean to sound harsh to you in my last post, just that we're seeing a LOT of damaged Heritage Klipsch lately. ---------------- No Michael, not harsh at all. It's my own blind faith in a shipping companies that I once thought took great care in their shipping methods. How naive of me. Your advice is well received and correct! thanks...mitch
  22. Thanks to all of you for you valuable input and help. Between my multiple phone calls (you have to 'hound' these people) and a bit of help from a fellow forum member, things came together very well. got the speaker back (a bit damaged but in good working order), and some insurance money coming. Later all....mitch
  23. ---------------- On 5/30/2005 10:01:56 AM jorjen wrote: Hi BS, I had a situation about 8-10 years ago with a large desktop cigar humidor I made. I used raw, un-backed veneer and did not use a substrate between the veneer and the surface I was veneering because I was veneering cross-grain. Anyway, when I began shooting my MacLac Laquer finsih it was going down very nicely, looked like glass, which was my objective. Then after about an hour or two the whole thing went sideways. The Laquer started to check and wrinkle, similar in appearance to some auto finishes I have seen layed down over an improperly prepped body. So, I immediately thought my surface had been contaminated before I shot the Laquer. No big deal at this point, so I removed the Laquer, sanded and cleaned my surface and resealed it. Started laying the Laquer down again, and BANG, the same result. After fighting this problem for a week or two I decided to talk to a buddy more knowledgeable on this subject than I. He told me that the problem I was having was a reaction between the solvent in the contact cement I used to adhere the veneer and the Laquer itself and that I would never achieve the desired result because of this. So I wound up stripping the thing and using an oil finish and it looked great. And, I did learn a valuable lesson. When using a backed veneer you obviously will not have this problem due to the barrier between your veneer face and your substrate created by the backing. Granted, backed/sheet veneer can simplify the whole process in several ways. However, there is a small downside to using backed veneers as pointed out to me in the past by Greg. From a purely aesthetic standpoint, backed veneer seems to lack some of the the dimensionality and depth of grain of raw veneer. It lacks a little of the warmth that you get with raw veneer if that makes any sense. Hope this helps in some way. ---------------- So, would your suggestion be to use a different type of glue (other than Titebond)? My veneer is non-backed. I want something that's going to adhere and stay that way. I'm also probably going to use some sort of oil for my finish (non-sprayed), just rubbed in...like BLO (boiled linseed oil). My critical part is getting the glue part right. Your thoughts? Mitch P.S. Thanks for the advice.
  24. ---------------- On 5/15/2005 9:26:26 PM greg928s4 wrote: I have to say that I've been having a very difficult time with the iron-on method with Titebond II glue. Thanks to Doug for the link to joewoodworker, I've purchased some of that heat glue and a few other goodies. Man, they have the wildest veneer too. Huge sheets of figured veneer, wide enough to cover a La Scala with no joints! Amazing. Greg ---------------- Uh-oh, Greg, You've done some awesome work from what I've seen of your work and pix. GaryMD is certainly pleased, etc. Am I to understand that you're not so sure about the Titebond and ironing method anymore? IF so, I'm going to wait until other chime in with either a better glue product or method? Your suggestions? Mitch
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