PrestonTom
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Posts posted by PrestonTom
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Isn't that all part of the delivery fee?
Yes, if the piano was left in the driveway, I would be on the phone immediately (of course, anyone would).
Unless I am mistaken, these are being sold by a retailer and not directly by the manufacturer (although they might be drop-shipped) from the factory, I assume). Am I wrong on this assumption?
I am sympathetic to the buyer. He has been waiting for about a year to get these. Has the retailer been making excuses and sitting on his money the entire time? It is a fair question and someone mumbling something about "supply chain" is not much of an answer.
I think he deserved better service, especially at these prices.
The good news is that soon he will be enjoying the speakers in all their glory. The memory of the process will soon fade.
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Wouldn't a service like that typically be provided by the retailer (or their local representative) and not by the manufacturer.
I believe for their expensive systems, a JBL retailer will have some sort of "factory trained" tech come out and do the setup (including a digital room correction). All this comes with a fee of course.
I'm not sure all that much hand holding needs to be done to get these up and running. Will your vendor/dealer help out via the phone or Zoom if you need to fine tune things?
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Well it sounds like you are on track and good to go.
Do I smell a YouTube video coming up? If not a video, then certainly countless stories around the Thanksgiving table about "that crazy uncle (or cousin or neighbor etc) of ours and his cannon". You are a legend in the making.
Good luck,
-Tom
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There is probably not enough time to have this done by the holiday but ........
When I was a lad, and guys used to rebuild engines and recondition cylinder heads there was a technique called "magnafluxing". Basically, a powder (attracted by a magnet) was placed on the unit which was in turn subject to a magnetic field. If the unit had a crack then the "dust" would show a discontinuity (from a discontinuity in the magnetic field). I am sure a mechanic could take my mangled words and give a better description. However decades ago this was a common diagnostic and I have no idea whether it still is. What was cool is that it could reveal cracks that were not readily seen by a simple visual inspection.
My question is whether there is something comparable (and what is it called) for cannons or firearms? I am just an abundantly cautious guy .....
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1 hour ago, ClaudeJ1 said:
MCM 1900 and I owned Jubilees too. Actually owned all the Klipsch heritage
Well, the OP did list footprint and WAF as criteria (albeit lower priority). Given the excessive size of the footprint and the absolute lack of WAF, it is hard to imagine that MCMs should be included in the final list.
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I confess that I am ignorant of the size of the Forte
The Cornwall 2 is 390 sq in and the Forte 4 is 216 sq in. You are correct and the Forte is 45% smaller (please do not embarrass an old man and check his math).
I used to own Cornwalls (1 & 2). I liked them quite a bit. I have heard the old Fortes and thought they were good. Are the new Fortes "that much better"?
Note: I asked "better" not "prettier"
The reason I am pushing the older Cornwalls is that they are available and affordable ( I am a cheap SOB and love a bargain).
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2 hours ago, YK Thom said:
Most bang for the buck taking footprint into account would be the new Fortes.
Well the price of the Forte IV's is now $5K a pair, - That is a lot of bucks. Is there that much more bang?
Although it is not the best speaker, a used Cornwall or Cornwall2 has a good deal of bang for very little bucks (and they are readily available). So I would have to say those are the best bang for the buck.
Yes, you can pay more for a speaker and get better performance, but then we run into our old nemesis, Mr Diminishing Returns.
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If you are referring to the "underground" Jubilees (Jubilee bass bin with two K-31s and the K-402 top & DSP crossover/EQ), the answer is: Yes, the Jubilee was easily the best at its price point (between $7-8.5k over the the last 15 years or so).
This is compared to both other Klipsch products and also products from other manufacturers.
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I added the second part of the interview. So I am bumping this thread so folks are aware of the additional content.
Enjoy
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Whatever the scenario, I hope Coytee's last words are not "Hey, hold my beer and watch this ..."
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Your Dad sounds like a real character!
It looks like some of that rubbed off on you also. Good luck with your project.
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11 hours ago, VDS said:
I’ve been working on phase but I’m stuck at about 400 degrees. I don’t have access to FIR filters with my Xilica XP. Phase seems so touchy. @Chris A seems to have done it w/o for, but I can’t quite get it yet.
If you check one of Chris's threads look at his signature line and he has links to several archival threads that he created. In those he has good guides on how to set up the time alignment, filters and crossovers in order to minimize any large shifts in phase (using DSP units that do not provide FIR filters).
Give that a try (his directions are clear and concise). If you want to take it the next step then the Xilica XD series (not the XP series) can be employed (note, they are more expensive) or a more affordable box might be something from mini-DSP (OpenDRC hardware with re-Phase software).
Good luck,
-Tom
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On 4/24/2022 at 6:23 PM, Wirrunna said:
VDS,
Getting phase flattened made a a more noticeable difference than a really flat SPL.
Here are a couple of references -
Here is my modified K-Horn where I have flattened the phase.
Phase smoothing requires FIR filters which may not be available on the Xilica. I bet that the DSP for the new Jubilee is using FIR filters.
I disagree with that .
The first priority is to get the amplitude spectrum to be fairly flat. After that, then worry about the phase spectrum. There are some obvious targets including a speaker accidently wired out of phase, or a time delay (group delay) due to physical alignment - but those are easy fixes with DSP. BTW, Most DSP does not have FIR filters. Devote your energy to the amplitude spectrum first.
I have tried some of Chris's suggestions (he has provided useful guides on this forum). While the improvements (when "flattening" the phase spectrum), are noticeable, I find them a bit subtle. IMHO, I would not call them "night and day differences". That said, I will be employing them in my next "forever speaker"
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10 hours ago, WMcD said:
i l live. wmccd
Welcome back my friend,
-Tom
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Let us take a step back for a moment.
The poor guy has been waiting for about a year and it seems the excuses just keep coming.
I believe these are priced at $35k-38k. I am sure the factory could figure out how to get some veneer (if that really is the problem).
Just my uneducated and cranky opinion.
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21 minutes ago, rplace said:
^^^ Really for the entire world of bad actors to feed on? I'd be pissed. Won't even quote that post and hope you delete it. Idiot!
I agree, when it is posted so openly, bad things will surely occur. I have no idea what the thought process was.
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Quoting TTops
" ..........The value of the speakers is a difficult question to answer, as it depends on many factors like the local market, sales venue, condition, and many other variables. There are many things we don't know from these photos, but my arbitrary guess is that the speakers are probably worth somewhere between $1000 and $1800. I hope others will offer a more accurate assessment, and more photos will definitely help....... "
I think your estimate is a reasonable one. There are too many unknowns on this one (do the drivers work, are these in the USA, have they seen flooding and mice etc)
These are not really collector's items (and there are not many collectors anyway) and the condition is quite rough. They do have potential for the right buyer (at the right time and the right location etc) who needs a fairly time consuming "project". It just seems like quite a few "ifs".
These might take a long time to sell, even at $1500.
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14 minutes ago, babadono said:
Yes I was with him about being able to tell if it was a real live piano or a recording from a sight unseen location but the jump to LPs sound more dynamic than CDs...
I'm not there. I know I'm preaching to the choir....CDs have the capability in DR to leave LPs in the dust but usually the artist/engineer/producer destroy those capabilities.
You need to be carefully about distinguishing "dynamics" and "dynamic range". They are not the same thing. The former is partly subjective (and comprised of several different phenomena) and the latter is objective (physically measurable).
So what are "dynamics" ? Difficult to describe .... but you know it when you hear it
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20 hours ago, babadono said:
records (LP as in vinyl) are more dynamic than CDs....always?
doesn't that depend on the mixing and mastering...and the loudness wars...and the opinion of the artist and the producer ad naseum
If you go back and listen to those comments, I think he was being careful and listing what things might create good dynamics and also painting with a broad brush. My take away was that a number of things can contribute and the complete picture is not yet understood. Think of "dynamics" in terms of his observation about hearing a live piano in a noisy background (the anecdote about shopping in the mall at Christmas time).
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20 minutes ago, ClaudeJ1 said:
It's not a need, but it would have been nice. Like PWK used to do. I did but not accumulate for 36 years because I was not hired to do that for a living. I guess I'm just guilty of too small of a sampling (short on data, unlike you).
It just puzzles me that you waste your time cherry picking this kind of BS and making contributions of only a few words each time. You are an amazingly prolific speaker designer. No one will ever question your integrity. I'm just basically saying it's a waste of personal time on your part, and it comes off as simply being lazy writing , rather than educational.
Claude, This is an odd way to encourage an expert to provide their insights. Personally, I am quite interested in the knowledge of experts.
Many times listening is preferable to arguing.
That is the extent of my insight.
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Interesting perspectives from a speaker engineer & designer who had an illustrious career at JBL. The interview is lengthy and not always crisp, but there are insights about "horn sound", relations and interactions between dynamics, dispersion, and efficiency, and the difficulty of understanding what creates good imaging.
-Enjoy
EDIT: There is now a Part TWO interview linked at the bottom of this post. As before the interview is lengthy and rambling, but educational.
PART ONE:
Part TWO:
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52 minutes ago, 001 said:
way under powered , you need at minimum 90 wpc , distortion is key here , the lower the distortion , the better the sound ,
you want an affordable high power 300wpc amp , Crown Xli 800 , you want a lower power amp , discrete , reliable , exceptional preamp ...Yamaha A-S1200
I am going to disagree on this!
With high sensitivity speakers, the overarching issue is whether there is any hiss, hum or buzzing in the background. Non-linearities causing distortion are another matter. Especially since the distortion is generally a function of overall level. If it is only putting out a few watts (and putting out plenty of sound) there will be very little distortion.
That is the beauty of a high efficiency speaker. The down side is that any background noise from the amp will be quite audible.
Over at DIYAudio, there is fairly sophisticated discussion about "just how many watts do you need". The thread was started by a sharp guy ("Pano"). You would be surprised about what a tiny amount of wattage is actually required.
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6 hours ago, jimjimbo said:
Yes, there certainly are. Parts Express, Sonicraft, and many others.
I believe this is the Type B schematic for your Cornwalls.
Leave the inductor and autoformer alone, but the 4uf and 2 uf caps are your target. Check the Parts Express website to see what they have. When I have done this in the past I simply used the Solen Polyprop caps. IIRC, sometimes it is hard to find a 2uf substitute, so feel free to use the more commonly found 2.2uf cap. If you want to get fancy then a spend a few dollars more and bypass (wire in parallel) a second cap across the main cap. This bypass cap should be about 1 or 2% the value of the main cap (approximately or even a little less). I like to use a Dayton film / foil as the bypass cap also available at the same website.
There are also other brands to choose from and there are also ways ways to spend even more money (the sky is the limit).
When you refresh the caps, you will notice a bit more energy in the high frequencies. Some folks will offer very flowery language about the "new found" sound. Given the price, it is certainly worth doing.
Good luck,
-Tom
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1 hour ago, 001 said:
Klipsch capacitors from @JEM Performance , for the crossovers .....that's it ....and if it's not broken , dont touch it , but it's doubtful with 79 Cornwalls
JEM Performance Audio (412) 401-6915 theaudioroom@verizon.net
Certainly, JEM is one vendor, but there are others also. Search the threads.
Klipsch Jubilee
in 2-Channel Home Audio
Posted
You are a patient man.
Enjoy your new Jubilees. That is the important thing!