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qball

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  1. quote: Be sure to set the sats to SMALL in the reciever's menu.The ProMedia sats can be damaged if you dont cut the bass out.AT 80Hz the lowpass should prevent damage unless you drive the poor sats to high SPL. Aye, you'll get better sound, better efficiency and be less likely to hurt things. quote: A subwoofer is a must,the ProMedia sats need help down low. Yes again. I just use the promedia sub... you can hook it up to the sub-out on your receiver if you just get an adapter and use the volume/sub knobs on your preamp to set the sub volume. I also had to give the subwoofer channel a boost on the receiver since I guess it typically operates at a lower level than a full bandwidth signal (my speculation). quote: When you hear distortion turn the volume down.And use common sense. Yes. Like I said in my previous post, you're far more likely to blow a set of speakers with a 15 Watt amp that's cliping than with a solid quality amp that's running above the speakers rated input power. Like theEAR said, use your head and your ears... you can typically hear things that will be damaging. quote: no, i do understand. the problem would be the one time accidental push of the volume knob and boom. now you have a bunch of broken sats. I'm not convinced that you would blow your sats, however if there is going to be an overload point, it's going to be outside of the realm of reason. As in you'd really have to be trying to get that amp wide open to have a problem. And again like theEAR says, just use common sense. I'm running a Denon AVR-1802 to drive my sats and running the bass through the pro's sub as I describe earlier. I'm migrating the setup to a Paradigm Cinema series setup slowly, and found this to be the best way of doing with trickle cash as opposed to blowing $1200 all at once. -Q
  2. Well, you'll see my reply regarding hooking the sats up to a receiver at length in the other thread. Anyway, I already have them hooked up, it works fine. I run a digital coax connection from my computer, power the sats with the receiver and run the subwoofer output back into the promedia input (which at this point is only hooked up to the subwoofer). I set the sub volume by tweaking the volume knobs on the promedia preamp to get everything balanced. The only reason I mentioned frequency response is that I believe the receiver by default will send frequencies lower than 80Hz to the subwoofer, which means that I'll have a hole from 80Hz to 120Hz. I'm not quite sure if this is the case, I have to have a friend of mine who is in the audio business drop by and tune my system, he'd be able to hear such things. -Q
  3. You guys don't seem to understand how this works. If you have a 500 Watt amp, that doens't mean that it magically provides 500 Watts to your speakers, only that it is capible of doing so. You seem to understand that power is dependant on the impedence of the speakers, and more specifically that it is inversely proportional. Meaning that if you have an amp that can do 100W for an 8Ohm load, then if you drop the load to 4Ohms, then it can do 200W, assuming it is 4Ohm stable. Now what you don't seem to understand is that Watts aren't something that's provided by an amplifier. All an amplifier does it output a signal at a given voltage. The speaker then draws current from the amplifier in terms of Ohm's law: I = V/R. So thus far, we have an amplifier providing a voltage, and a speaker drawing a current from the amplifier. Now to figure out the power used to drive the speaker and make sound waves (as well as any heat, etc generated as a side effect) can be determined by the equation: P = I*V. Substituting for I and you get P = V^2/R, thus Power (watts) = Voltage^2 (volts^2) / Resistance (Ohms). So this verifies what you know already, if you drop the impedence by a factor of 2, you raise the power by twice as many watts. The fundamental thing that you're missing is the issue of volts. The way an amplifier causes a speaker to vibrate is by sending an oscilating voltage to the speaker. Want it louder? Then the amp sends a higher voltage signal. So the number power you send to your speakers depends on the volume. Also, in terms of the speakers, there is no difference between 60W with a 4 ohm impedence and 60W with an 8 ohm impedence, it's still the same amount of power, the difference being that you won't have to turn the volume knob up as much to get to that power level with the lower impedence speakers. Where lower impedence can hurt you in in your amp. Amps are designed with a certain current in mind, so you can hurt your amp if you hook it up to a lower impedence load than it was designed for. When you buy passive speakers, they will have a rated output. The promedia sats don't have this rated spec, since they are designed to be used with the promedia amp. Just because the promedia amp is 60W doesn't mean that's all they can take, just that is what Klipsch is supplying them with. Even if that's really all they can take, you can avoid going over the limit simply by not blasting them any louder than you could with the integrated amp. So using an external amp to power your sats won't hurt your sats, though your amp might not like it if they are too low impedence (I seem to recall the promedia sats being rated around 6ish Ohms, not 4), but I'd say that most decent quality amps shouldn't have any problem with them. A note on the above: my calculations use the most basic circuit theory to elaborate my point, however a speaker isn't a straight resistor, so it's slightly more complicated than that... the principles still hold though. -Q
  4. Why didn't you power the sats from the receiver? -Q
  5. I'm wondering what the frequency responce is for the v.2-400 sats. The website lists the responce for the system as a whole but gives no numbers for the sats/sub individually. I'm curious since I just hooked up my system to a receiver and I want to make sure that the sub's crossover is set high enough so that I don't have a hole. -Q
  6. Here's a repost from a thread at Ars. quote: The Klipsch 4.1's have been on my wishlist for a while, and before the hardware lust sets in and the 5.1's supplant them, can anyone tell me any real benefits I would get from buying the 5.1's as opposed to the 4.1's? I don't have a DVD drive on my computer nor plan to get one anytime soon. I do watch anime and some movies once in a while though, though I game a lot. Is it worth the extra $100? Probably not. If gaming is your primary usage, the 4.1 should be more than adequate. If music is primary it's more iffy, because though we don't have any official specs, it's a near certainty that the subwoofer on the 5.1s will have better bass extention, if you're going for movies (from a DVD source only, rips don't count) the 5.1 is a no brainer. The other thing you have to consider, though minor, is the details of the components and how much that means to you. (i.e. Do you really like the free standing volume control pod? Do you not have any room for a center speaker, etc) All in all however, I'd say that you'll be happier with the 4.1s and the extra $100 in your pocket. quote: As I understand it, there are only a couple of differences between the Klipsh 4.1s and 5.1s. The 5's have an extra 100 watts coming out of the amplifier, a 5th sattelite (true front center channel), and they use dual 8" woofers instead of 6" ones. The 5 sats in the 5.1 setup are all identical electrically, and are identical to the sats in the 4.1 setup. As to the details, the center channel of the 5.1s is a different shape, though the actual drivers are the same. The other difference between the sats in the 4.1 and the 5.1 is that the 5.1 sats use spring clips so that the connection between the amp and the sats is standard speaker wire instead of that odd 1/8" jack on the 4.1s. The difference between the subwoofers on the two sets is pretty straight forward. The 4.1 subwoofer has dual 6.5" drivers driven by a 160W amp, whereas the 5.1 subwoofer has dual 8" drivers driven by a 200W amp. It has bigger drivers, which are traditionally more efficient at producing bass (which means more volume per watt of amplifier power) and also more amplifier power, which means that the subwoofer on the 5.1s will probably actually keep up with the sats when you get the volume knob beyond 2 o'clock. This extra headroom is a nice thing since it leads to a more balanced system, however what makes me more excited is the frequency range. We haven't seen any frequency specs, but you can bet that the 5.1 subwoofer will have a lower bottom, and that's a good thing. The other difference is that the 5.1 system has a free standing control pod as opposed to one that attaches to the bottom of a sat for the 4.1s. When they actually make it out for user critique we will know about any other details (i.e. speaker wire, etc). The original thread is here , for reference. -Q
  7. These speakers aren't any different from the 4.1 in terms of inputs with the exception that they have an extra input that gives true discrete 5.1 inputs. Attach the standard 2 1/8" plugs to your source and they will behave exactly like the 4.1s. -Q
  8. It sounds to me like you have the inputs from your soundcard switched around. Hook up the speakers the correct way and switch the 1/8" inputs. -Q
  9. AFAIK all the 5.1 sound cards have 5.1 analog outputs. -Q
  10. quote: They have increased the RMS rating by 100 watts, will that be enough to power an extra satellite and two 8" drivers? Well as far as enough power for an extra sat, that's simple, the extra sat is identical electrically to the other 4, and the extra channel for it is 60W just like all the others so it's just an extra 60W channel. As to the subwoofer: as a general rule, larger speakers are more efficient than smaller ones. Another rule is that it takes exponentially more power to produce the same volume as you move down the frequency scale. It's likely that the new subwoofer will have a better bass extention because of the extra power and efficiency. Subwoofers are complicated pieces of design work though, so take everything I said with a grain of salt. -Q
  11. http://www.klipsch.com/ubb/Forum10/HTML/003360.html -Q
  12. Here's a copy of a post that I had in another thread that didn't get any replies: quote: I have been thinking about the details of the 6.2 setup and I haven't reached any perfect setup in my mind yet. Here are my thoughts: In all cases switch your LR speakers with the improved ones from the 2.1 set. Keep your standard 4.1 setup as it would be normally setup, add the 2.1 setup as Dan described. This may introduce an interference pattern in the room for the center channel as you have 2 identical mono sources. I don't feel like breaking out my waves/optics textbook and going through the equations, at the moment, but it could be an issue depending on the setup. Additionally, you have 2 subwoofers, but one of them is dedicated to the center channel + LFE, which essentially means that it is wasted for everything that doesn't have 5.1 encoding. You can fix the first problem by using only one speaker for your center channel. The problem now is that your center channel is very much underpowered because you have 4x 60W for everything else, and only 35W for the center. This probably won't be an issue unless you're cranking it, however. If you can bridge the amp on the 2.1 then you could get 70W out of it, which seems pretty good to me. I'm not sure whether the 2.1 amp would like to be bridged or not, someone who knows the design would have to comment on that. Now there's still the issue of the subwoofer. Personally, I'd be of the opinion that you should be able to share subwoofers somehow so that you can use both all the time. Or perhaps you could set it up so that you have a front and rear subwoofers ala the 4.2 setup, or right/left setup that might be worth considering. With this costing $200 I was also thinking it might be possible to get a 60-100W mono amp and the center speaker for the quintets and perhaps get better results for about the same price. I dunno, it's a toss up. Any thoughts? -Q
  13. I have been thinking about the details of the 6.2 setup and I haven't reached any perfect setup in my mind yet. Here are my thoughts: In all cases switch your LR speakers with the improved ones from the 2.1 set. Keep your standard 4.1 setup as it would be normally setup, add the 2.1 setup as Dan described. This may introduce an interference pattern in the room for the center channel as you have 2 identical mono sources. I don't feel like breaking out my waves/optics textbook and going through the equations, at the moment, but it could be an issue depending on the setup. Additionally, you have 2 subwoofers, but one of them is dedicated to the center channel + LFE, which essentially means that it is wasted for everything that doesn't have 5.1 encoding. You can fix the first problem by using only one speaker for your center channel. The problem now is that your center channel is very much underpowered because you have 4x 60W for everything else, and only 35W for the center. This probably won't be an issue unless you're cranking it, however. If you can bridge the amp on the 2.1 then you could get 70W out of it, which seems pretty good to me. I'm not sure whether the 2.1 amp would like to be bridged or not, someone who knows the design would have to comment on that. Now there's still the issue of the subwoofer. Personally, I'd be of the opinion that you should be able to share subwoofers somehow so that you can use both all the time. Or perhaps you could set it up so that you have a front and rear subwoofers ala the 4.2 setup, or right/left setup that might be worth considering. With this costing $200 I was also thinking it might be possible to get a 60-100W mono amp and the center speaker for the quintets and perhaps get better results for about the same price. I dunno, it's a toss up. Any thoughts? -Q
  14. But he fails to mention whether putting a fan in there has any effect, or whether it introduces unacceptable noise levels under normal operation. When you're dealing with audio equipment it's a little bit more complicated than the latest blowhole case mod for your computer. -Q
  15. The power output is a function of the amp, not of the speaker itself, so if the promedia sats can handle 100W RMS but the amp in the 4.1 can only provide them with 60W, then the output will be 60W. Likewise if you hook the same sats up to an amp that only outputs 35W then you will only have 35W of output. So the descrepancy is moot. -Q
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