Southern

I did the mod over 10 years ago, but from what I remember is that the the mids and highs were more open and clear. Since I use my RF-7's in my home theater (RC-7 & RS-7's) I found that the imaging was also much improved. I drive my home theater with an older Pioneer Elite receiver (140W x7) and like to listen to blu-ray concerts at concert volume levels. The bass is nice and tight (chest thumping) and not distorted. The overall sound is very balanced and when watching a blu-ray concert I feel like I am in the concert hall. The more that I turn up the volume, I feel that I am moving closer to the stage. At +10 I feel like I am on stage with the performers. My thought process for this build was to get the most improvement for the price (bang for the buck).

For my RF-7 I replaced the caps utilizing the Dean G mod (Auricap for the HF and Solon for the LF as well as replaced the resistor with Mills), I kept the original inductors. I was able to shoehorn the new caps in place of the old caps, unlike my RC-7 which I had to relocate the HF section (2nd photo). I can't comment on the best cap since I didn't do a comparison, but I am pleased with the combination that I used.

I would include the Forte's to this list. I drive my Forte 1's with a 70's monster receiver (Pioneer SX-1980) and they/I love it. My RF-7's are in my HT setup. What internet radio head are you using?

What I find interesting is that between the Forte 1 and Forte II they were the best selling Klipsch speaker of all time, which is most likely why they brought back the Forte to the current line-up.

Forte 1, I modified the crossovers for bi-amping and upgraded the tweeter diaphram to ti.

Also not to debate but I drive the woofers of my Fortes with 270 watts of SS power and the mids/tweeters with 30 watts of tube power which they can not only take but rewards me with concert volume levels and chest thumping bass.

Keep in mind that Alex plans on driving them with an 8W SET amp, not sure if this would weigh the coin in one direction.

I have attached both specs for the Forte 1 and Chorus 2. Although the Forte is not rated for peak power, I can confirm that they can handle rock concert levels as I drive mine with my Pioneer SX-1980 (270wpc). The Chorus are 3dB more effecient so they will play louder than the Forte but the Forte will dig deeper. Regardless which speaker you choose, I suggest replacing the crossover caps (if they are original) as a minimum, or upgrade the crossover as the factory crossover caps are in need of replacement due to their age. Chorus-II-brochure.pdf forte-brochure.pdf

Alex, Like I stated in my reply in the message, I don't have the Chorus II's but I have compared my Forte 1's to Cornwall II's. The Forte's go deeper in frequency and have a much smaller footprint. I am very pleased with my Forte's and have no reason to replace them (other then for a pair of Klipschorn's). Klipsch speakers pair very well with tube amps. I also don't have experience with your SET amp but I have read that others have had great experience with SET amps and Klipsch.

I think that I may have heard them all the way from my house Scott!🤘

Good luck with your sale Scott. How many subwoofers are you up to now?

I supersized my RC-7 crossover: Very gerenous offer Youthman.

Beautiful indeed!

Don't you have natural gas where you live?

The round terminal cup indicates that they most likely are early build Forte 1's. Later build Forte 1's and Forte 2's have rectangular terminal cups. Good luck with your future purchase.

Zingo, I did the same to my Forte's, couldn't agree with you more. Here is a link to my modified crossovers: http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=94027&highlight=bi-amp+forte

Scott, If you wan't to add weight on your KLF 30's try putting your 2nd pair on top (upside down). I'm guessing that the imaging along with the bass will be outstanding.

I suspect that the Forte's gaskets are compressed and are leaking. If you gently push in on the woofer, the passive should move out and gradually move back. If the passive goes out then right back then your speaker gaskets are leaking. I used rope caulk to seal all my drivers including the passive radiator. I also have my Forte's about 16" from the rear wall.

I'm not familar with the Pioneer model you listed, but my RF 7's do very well with my Pioneer Elite which has the MCACC eq.

I also have a stock ST-70 and my experience is that the rectifier tube has the shortest life. My experience is that a bad rectifier tube will also blow fuses. As suggested, test your tubes.

I contacted Gorm about his RF-7, he decided to keep it and try building another RF-7 center with the cones spaced closer to the horn.

Good choice! Have you considered modifying an RF-7 for use as a center channel? Keep looking, RC-7's are out there you just have to be patient for the right one.

I second that! The NOSValves VRD's brought out the best the RF-7's have to offer.

Thanks for the suggestion. I've never had grills for my RS-7's and over the years the contrast between the white top & bottom and black motorboard with the copper woofer has grown on me. But if I decide to change the white to black I know I have an inexpensive way to do it.

Thanks for the tip Pete. I have a pair of white RS-7's that I can now easily convert to black with your method.