Gliderguy

I have been using an RB 1090 to power my RF7s and have been very pleased with them as well. But... I began an upgrade binge and now have a new preamp that, with its greater resolution and detail, has my RF7s sounding bright, forward-er, and occasionally harsh. The 1090 has a fairly warm top end so the brightness was tolerable - until I swapped amps. Now the brightness really is noticeable and I have been driven by whip crack sibilance to have Dean upgrade the Xovers. The new amp made an incredible improvement in soundstage, detail and freq. extension. It's been a very great improvement. But those ss and ts at 90dbl. Piercing, they were. Painful. Dean's going to fix that. Right? Dean?[]

I am selling my complete 5.1 Klipsch set up. RF15 RC25 RS25 RW10 All speakers are black and in perfect condition. These are about 1 year old and were replaced by other, bigger Klipsch Ref speakers about 5 months ago. I was planning to use these in a bedroom system. That, apparently, will never happen. I would love to sell these as a set. I would love to sell these locally in the Denver/Front Range/I70 Mtns. I can deliver to these areas. I can ship these but all insurance and shipping charges will be the responsibility of the buyer. Shipping speakers is a crap shoot and I do not recommend it! However... The best method for shipping these would be to palletize the six pieces and ship FedEx freight. I have all original boxes. I have pics I can email if interested. $1100.00 plus any shipping charges. Thanks Email at gliders that thing that goes here comcast that other thing net

I would like to build an outboard adjustable low pass filter for my RSW15. I want to be able to leave the RSW set to LFE for HT use but also have a full range signal from a preamp available through the outboard LP filter. Right now I have to switch from LFE to the LP filter when running the sub for music. Basically I am looking for a circuit schematic and parts list to mirror the RSW's LPF. Any recommendations? Thanks

SS diodes. I am wondering if it's the mute relay pushing some DC into the circuit. Activating mute well after the warm up cycle is finished produces the thump also. Thanks

Thanks for the replys. I was looking not for a way to prevent it but more for the root cause of the thump. What happens within the pre amp's circuits that produces this. Caps charging, caps discharging, flux capacitor spin up, electron spin discontinuity variance? What?

Quick question. What would cause a through the speaker 'thump" when turning on a preamp? It is driving me crazy. The pre has a warm up mute feature and it still thumps. Thanks GG

I did some thinking last night and here is what I plan to do. If there are problems with this setup, someone should let me know. ok? I will run one set of CDP outputs to the Peach ( there are two sets of analog outs on the Jolida JD100). I will run the 2nd set of outputs of the CDP to the HT prepro 's CD input. When running the Peach and the sub I will have the HT prepro on and set to CD. The prepro will then control the sub as normal - xover, volume etc. The fronts will be driven by the Peach. If I don't want the sub in the mix, I just leave the prepro off. This will also allow me to run the CDP through the HT prepro just as I do now. I will just set the Peach to HT bypass. Yesss.....It's all becoming clear now....[]

Super. I was hoping you would reply Carl. I have read previous posts of yours regarding the Peach and saw that you ran RF7s , a Peach and the Jolida. You mention splitting one output on the Peach to run the sub. Do you mean split the right ( let's say) output and route only that channels info to the sub ( as well as routing it to the amp)? Wouldn't this lose bass info from the unsplit left side? Ideally wouldn't it be best to run both R and L to the sub? You mention using the active EQ. Are you referring to the sub's xover/LPF? I think I have the general idea but I just want to be clear. Unfortunately it sounds like a lot of new cabling will be needed to pull this off! Have you found you need the sub with your JD100 , Peach and the 7s running full range? Have you ever diagrammed your system's cabling? I am sitting here typing and trying to diagram your set up and I got lost when I reached the SS amps and the Tube amps cabled to the prepro and the Peach then connected to the splitters after the speakers....[] Thanks for the help. GG

Here is the situation; I have a Peach on the way and that's great. I have a Denon 3805 and a Denon DVDP for HT. I currently run a Jolida CDP through the 3805 for music. I will run the CDP through the Peach for 2 channel and run the Peach in HT mode when doing the DVD thing. That's all clear. I run the 3805's preouts to a Rotel 1090 amp to power RF7 fronts. I run the RF7s set to small with an RSW15 sub. I like this for both music and HT the way things are now. But with the Peach... I realize the Peach will send everything to the RF7s with no processing, no crossover and no sub preout. But... I would like to have the option to have the sub in the mix. How would I accomplish this? Run a splitter from one of the outs on the Peach to the sub? Run a splitter to the 3805 sub input and use the 3805's xover? Run the Peach's outs through the sub's xover and then to the amp? I do realize that there is a good chance I will have no desire to run the sub while running the CDP and the Peach but I would like the option - at least so I can make the choice. Also, if anyone is running a similar setup I would be interested in reading their impressions and suggestions. TY GG

These are coming from an Authorized dealer. The 6 hour round trip would put me at the door of - wait for it - Soundtrack. Ahh, darn it, Soundtrack has gone out of business sort of kinda. They now call themselves Ultimate Electronics here. As I wrote in a previous post; "As far as picking one up. I tried that too. Three hours driving only to discover the one set aside by the mass market retailer was the floor model that had been sitting, literally, on the floor of their HT room for 6 months+. The floor where every boot toe and curious child could find those pretty copper fragile cones. I should have taken that one - for full pop retail no discount offered damaged or not sorry none to be found anywhere in our system we'll need to get back to you on that sorry. Nah. I will work with the good guys and take my chances with a bit o' shipping." We were so close this time. It's just a little dent. In any case , I don't mind making some calls in an attempt to sort this out. Or maybe I can drive the 13 hours round trip to SLC to get a perfect one. Shipping was by a freight company and was $60.

The latest news on the exploded RC7 is - UPS has denied the claim. Insufficient packaging. The packaging was Klipsch's own. You all know the engineering in that box - Two foam end caps, grill in separate box and the double walled corrugated cardboard outer box. This is simply not enough protection. How do I know? The second RC7 arrived today and it too was damaged. Not as badly damaged as the first one but one of the edges of the new speaker was dented from an impact. There exists about 2 inches of air space between the box and the unprotected speaker and this air space wasn't enough. This one was not shipped by UPS. I think Klipsch needs to revisit their packaging. At least they should add some foam along the corners. Air space is not the best. I do not know whether I will just accept the dent and move on or make another claim. Maybe the kind folks at Klipsch would ship me an empty baffle enclosure and I can return this one. A few minutes with a torx and I would have a 10/10 speaker.

Freight is probably the way to go for speakers but this is just a little 50 pounder. I was worried about a crushed corner or something relatively minor. But this? It's totaled. There's little chance of argument from UPS about that - hopefully. It came from an authorized Klipsch dealer, people with whom I have done business and with whom I have a good relationship. They will sort it out with me. I have no doubts of that. The next one will be double boxed and shipped by another carrier. As far as picking one up. I tried that too. Three hours driving only to discover the one set aside by the mass market retailer was the floor model that had been sitting, literally, on the floor of their HT room for 6 months+. The floor where every boot toe and curious child could find those pretty copper fragile cones. I should have taken that one - for full pop retail no discount offered damaged or not sorry none to be found anywhere in our system we'll need to get back to you on that sorry. Nah. I will work with the good guys and take my chances with a bit o' shipping.

Klipsch is where exactly? Someplace I am not, I am pretty sure. So how does the little RC7 get from Klipsch to this special place where I can pick it up without it being shipped there? The nearest dealer to me is a 6 hour round trip. Gas alone for the trip is 3 times the shipping cost for the speaker. I don't consider a 50 lbs RC7 large and bulky. But now that you've told me to shut up I understand completely. It is my fault, isn't it. You are correct. I apologize. What was I thinking...

"FWIW, from here it looks like the woofers failed because of G forces, not direct impact." Definitely. There is no "impact" damage to the enclosure - no crushed veneer, no smooshed MDF. There are a good many scuffs and scratches on the veneer from the bits of broken surround frame that roamed the inside of the plastic bag used to wrap the speaker. This speaker was dropped onto its back and the surrounds failed. Repair? Sure. But not by me and not on my dollar and then not in my HT. It's a new speaker I paid for and it will be new speaker I shall have. Harrumph. What are the alternatives to UPS besides FedEx? I am thinking I will have the next one it shipped FedEx.But I am open to suggestions.

How great a drop do you think it would take to do this? Both drivers were dislocated. This one was inside the enclosure. The other was just barely not inside and its surround was in pieces. UPS handlers need a hard deck for packages. Respect the hard deck!